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Old 07-13-2008, 09:07 PM   #26
Lopaka
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Default Lowering Eos

Aloha All,
I think the Eos is low enough already. I have almost crunched my front bumper and engine aluminiun cover due to parking lot bump stops. I think the designers put a lot of thought into the design which seems very balanced for what the Eos mission in life is.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:19 PM   #27
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yes, I've got those, what are they for?
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Old 07-14-2008, 07:57 PM   #28
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Its a legal requirement that the wheels don't exceed the wheel arches. If they were not there the car would be classed as unroadworthy. When it come to MOT time it would fail if they were not there.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:03 PM   #29
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Mine has 18" Smarklands and it is lowered 15mm and it also has the small plastic bits.

I have just changed 2 tyres after only 37000km. It came with Dunlops - the ride started to get very jittery and they wore out very quickly on the rear. Wheel alignment has always been checked every 10000km and was always OK. The tyres were always swapped front to rear etc every 10000km.

I do not drive it hard but I do have the roof down alot. Is 37000km reasonable? The other 2 tyres probably have 5000km left on them.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchedeos View Post
Mine has 18" Smarklands and it is lowered 15mm and it also has the small plastic bits.

I have just changed 2 tyres after only 37000km. It came with Dunlops - the ride started to get very jittery and they wore out very quickly on the rear. Wheel alignment has always been checked every 10000km and was always OK. The tyres were always swapped front to rear etc every 10000km.

I do not drive it hard but I do have the roof down alot. Is 37000km reasonable? The other 2 tyres probably have 5000km left on them.


Reasonable? It's at least twice what I get out of mine!!
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:35 PM   #31
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Anyone know if there is diferences in VW EOS suspension system when it cames with 18" wheels?

I'm asking this as mine came with Sport equipment and 16" wheels and I change it to 18" (Chicago ones) but I don't have this wheel dimension in my specs/property doc, only top to 17" and I'm afraid my VW says its only possible to 2.0 TFSI and 3.2 motors.

If you have VW parts numbers that I can check in mine we can confirm that. My driver side rear shock absorver has part number "1Q0 512 011 B" and is from Sachs EZD.

Visually, the wheels effect looks like the photo above.
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Old 08-01-2009, 12:08 PM   #32
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It is looking great. How much it costs?
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:09 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Does anyone know if these Eibach springs would cause negative camber on the wheels. when you lower a vehicle significantly lower than standard, wheels tend to camber and you will get half the life out of your tyres as they wear unevenly
Shouldn't if u have all 4 wheels aligned. Done mine with Eibach spring for almost a year, running on Mich PS2 for almost 30,000 km and still have another 10K life to go. Just an observation yesterday that the tyres tends to wear a bit more from inside and that might be due to the longer traveling stroke of stock shock. But still not significant as I experience similar problem on the stock suspension setup in my previous Bimmer E46 320.

Overall good stuff and enjoyng it no fear for road humps or ramp.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:47 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinoecat View Post
Shouldn't if u have all 4 wheels aligned. Done mine with Eibach spring for almost a year, running on Mich PS2 for almost 30,000 km and still have another 10K life to go. Just an observation yesterday that the tyres tends to wear a bit more from inside and that might be due to the longer traveling stroke of stock shock. But still not significant as I experience similar problem on the stock suspension setup in my previous Bimmer E46 320.

Overall good stuff and enjoyng it no fear for road humps or ramp.
I have Eibach springs too, and 18"x8" offset 35 Borbet LV5 black rims on my Island grey TFSI, but I have 225/45 tires mounted, and that gives a little problems. After winter season I will mount 225/40 that will solve the problems I think.
Due to the lowering I also have wear inside the tires, but camber is just inside VW spec. I have running approx. 30.000 km too, and I have a little more on the rear tires.
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:36 AM   #35
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Anyone ever document what's involved in lowering it? Or atleast the torque specs?
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:41 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajcordeiro View Post
Anyone know if there is diferences in VW EOS suspension system when it cames with 18" wheels?

I'm asking this as mine came with Sport equipment and 16" wheels and I change it to 18" (Chicago ones) but I don't have this wheel dimension in my specs/property doc, only top to 17" and I'm afraid my VW says its only possible to 2.0 TFSI and 3.2 motors.

If you have VW parts numbers that I can check in mine we can confirm that. My driver side rear shock absorver has part number "1Q0 512 011 B" and is from Sachs EZD.

Visually, the wheels effect looks like the photo above.
My 2007 VW Eos Sport with the VW OEM 18" Samarkand Wheel option has suspension travel bump stop limiters sized to make sure the top of the wheels and tires can't travel up too high.
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:48 PM   #37
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I am also looking to see what is involved in lowering the Eos. i heard some VW's are an absolute nightmare but I know RSX's aren't bad. I would love to see someone's eibach instruction sheet or photos of the install. Also curious of the time it took to do the process as I am looking at getting some Eibachs myself.
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:08 AM   #38
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It really isn't all that difficult, but having the correct tools would greatly help. I've done numerous cars in the mkV platform and they are all the same. There are several ways you can tackle it too.

In the front, there are 3 nuts holding the strut onto the body. Remove these, and disconnect the steering linkage, the driveshaft, and the 3 nuts holding the hub to the front trailing arm and you can remove the strut and hub in one assembly. This way you can use your strut spreader tool out of the vehicle to remove the hub.

Alternatively you can leave the hub in the vehicle, but remove one of the bolts holding the trailing arm to the front subframe, disconnect the driveshaft and get the strut out that way, although this method you'd have to use the strut spreader tool in the vehicle which is a little trickier.

The rear is easy, just disconnect the shocks and the springs will pop out with a bit of leverage. A vehicle hoist is very helpful with the install and I usually take my time (as I don't have a lot of strength) and it'd take me about 2 hrs to install a set of coilovers.

That was 2 yrs ago... I now work in an office in another industry and pay someone to install suspension for me :-) because it really wasn't very fun.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:41 AM   #39
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thanks Lams my buddy and I need to replace the suspension on his RSX and we were debating whether or not we could do the Eos on the same day. His coilovers are going after 6 years and two cars so we might be swapping his suspension and I was thinking of doing the springs and maybe a dogbone motor mount insert at the same time/day.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:40 PM   #40
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Lams do you need to disconnect the axle on the passenger side? I heard the passenger side is very different from the driver side
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Old 06-14-2010, 03:10 AM   #41
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Wish those of you who had sport springs installed would post pictures. Reading is fun and all but.... pictures just make the reading part more enjoyable.

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Old 06-17-2010, 12:05 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkknight View Post
Wish those of you who had sport springs installed would post pictures. Reading is fun and all but.... pictures just make the reading part more enjoyable.

Well said Darkknight.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:06 AM   #43
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And whatever happened to Bachata's pictures?
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:23 PM   #44
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And whatever happened to Bachata's pictures?
Sorry I meant Barchetta's pictures
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