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Old 11-02-2013, 10:23 AM   #1
Gibboeos
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Default Problem with the window drop

Hi I have a 2006 2.0l TFSI eos and I'm experiencing a problem with the windows, when I unlock the car with the key fob the windows drop but not enough to clear the seals, but as soon as I pull the handle the window drops to clear the seal, but my mum also has an eos and as soon as you unlock the car with the fob the window drops about an inch to clear the seal. Can I change how much the window drops when I unlock it or is it a dealers job? Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2013, 11:05 PM   #2
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Something doesn't sound right.

Mine drop about 8mm below the seal line and the drop is the same whether I use the remote or the door handle. There is a dealer service setup procedure and marks at the top of the glasses which must aligh with the bottom of the seal when the glasses are fully up. All 4 glasses should be dropping about the same amount and come up to the glass marks.

My personal gripe is they need to stay down a bit longer than they do. If you are carrying stuff or have kids or shopping to deal with, you really need them staying down longer. Now we just get in the habit of holding the door handle out slightly, drop the glass then fully open the door.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:19 AM   #3
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Something doesn't sound right.

Mine drop about 8mm below the seal line and the drop is the same whether I use the remote or the door handle. There is a dealer service setup procedure and marks at the top of the glasses which must aligh with the bottom of the seal when the glasses are fully up. All 4 glasses should be dropping about the same amount and come up to the glass marks.

My personal gripe is they need to stay down a bit longer than they do. If you are carrying stuff or have kids or shopping to deal with, you really need them staying down longer. Now we just get in the habit of holding the door handle out slightly, drop the glass then fully open the door.
That is definitely a gripe I have with the Eos as compared to the CC.

With my CC, all I have to do is slightly pull the handle and the glass lowers. Unfortunately, with the Eos, one has to pull the door slightly open to lower the glass after it has timed out.

VW does not seem to have a "Handle" on the design of all their vehicles. Sorry for the pun.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:18 AM   #4
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VW does not seem to have a "Handle" on the design of all their vehicles. Sorry for the pun.
Failure to listen to customers loses them and opens up opportunities for competitors. By the time they catch up, it can be too late.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:35 PM   #5
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I've tried everything from giving the door catch a good lubing to resetting the windows using the key in the door lock but nothing makes any differance, do you need to use vag com to set the windows to drop correctly or can you do it without?
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:51 AM   #6
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I've tried everything from giving the door catch a good lubing to resetting the windows using the key in the door lock but nothing makes any differance, do you need to use vag com to set the windows to drop correctly or can you do it without?
I don't recall, while using my Ross-Tech Vagcom, that there is a way to adjust the amount of drop the door windows have. But then, I have had no need to look for it.

However, this has been discussed on this forum before. I know there are fixes but not too sure they can be done without a service department getting involved.

You say the windows do drop. How much, exactly? Also, you say they drop even more when you pull the handle. Do you actually mean, when you pull the door just a bit? The Eos windows are not controlled via the door handles like the CCs and other VWs are.

Did you do a forum search?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:51 AM   #7
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I had a look at the door control modules with my vcds.

I could not find anything in there that allowed me to modify the drop height, although it told me that the drop height for driver and passenger was 5.5% and 6% respectively.

That doesn't rule out something else the dealer can do. VCDS grew from all the other VAGs and CC's like the EOS and Audi TT are the only vehicles having this unique glass drop down feature.

Vcds also told me that the door ends were 'learned' and since I went through the window reset procedure after replacing the wire and one touch operation works, vcds just confirms what I expected.

Have you checked the glasses are within the two engraving marks when fully raised? If the physical height adjustment is wrong, then I wonder if the glass is coming up too far, hitting the inside of the seal channel and getting the wrong top end limit?

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewt...p?f=2&t=217668
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:34 PM   #8
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Yeah if I press the fob to unlock the drivers door or pasanger door (one press drivers side two press both doors) the window drops about 3mm ish not enough to clear the seals but when I pull on the handle, I.e so the latch releases the window drops to clear the seal, this happens on both sides. But In my mums eos (same year 06) all you have to do is press the fob to unlock and the windows drop all the way to clear the seals,
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #9
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Not checked the lines on the glass yet. Should I be able to see the bottom line on he glass when the door is shut and the window is fully up?
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:49 PM   #10
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Not checked the lines on the glass yet. Should I be able to see the bottom line on he glass when the door is shut and the window is fully up?
You should NOT be able to see the bottom of the glass when the windows are completely up.

My guess is that your windows are installed too high. I believe there is an adjustment but the door panels must come off.

By the way, my Eos glass drops 10mm when the doors are unlocked. My CC does the same.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:55 PM   #11
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Yeah both markings on the glass are not visible when the window is all the way up and locked is that right?
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:04 PM   #12
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That doesn't rule out something else the dealer can do. VCDS grew from all the other VAGs and CC's like the EOS and Audi TT are the only vehicles having this unique glass drop down feature.
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewt...p?f=2&t=217668
In addition to the Audi TT, Eos and CC as you mentioned above.......the Cabriolet and Beetle convertible also have the window drop feature. At least in the VAG line.

Of course, all modern convertibles, regardless of who the manufacturer is, have this feature.
Older drop tops had the side glass just press against the seals when the door was closed, as opposed to tucking up inside the rubber seals. Obviously they didn't seal nearly as well and there was a lot of wind noise at high speed.

I must admit that the new sealing technique is fabulous, albeit somewhat of a pain at times, if and when the adjustment gets out of order or when you have to open a door with a dead battery because of the glass not dropping.

My previous convertibles were a 1950 Buick, 1960 Pontiac, 1963 Chevrolet and a 2007 Chrysler. The first 3 were definitely very cold and drafty. Not noticeable in the summer, but the winters were not much fun. Because of the antiquated method of side glass sealing, I could just push against the glass lightly from inside the cabin and get a draft. I was living in the coldest part of the U.S. at the time.

I also had several, what were called "Hard Tops" during those years. Non-drop tops but with frameless windows and no "center post", unlike the CC. The 2 door hardtops sealed a bit better than the 4 door hardtops due to less body flex. You probably know what I am talking about already regarding these older vehicles.

I calculated once that since I started driving 56 years ago, I have owned 49 vehcles. That is ridiculous! Had I saved instead of spending wildly for cars and trucks, I would be a very rich man today, financially that is. I am very rich in all other respects. <><

BTW, my CC and Eos windows drop 10mm but my 20007 Chrysler Sebring Convertible only dropped about 5mm. It was still enough to clear the seals but didn't leave as large of a gap that the VWs do.
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:24 PM   #13
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Yeah both markings on the glass are not visible when the window is all the way up and locked is that right?
The edge of the seal should be BETWEEN the markings. If it is just level with the lower mark to the point where you just see it, then that is probably ok, but you should be able to see it. That is where I set mine because I think more glass into the seal at their spec, limit of the lower mark is better than less. If you carefully mark the glass along the seal edge with felt tip or tape when it is fully raised, lower the glass and see where your mark/tape is relative to their marks.

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My guess is that your windows are installed too high. I believe there is an adjustment but the door panels must come off.
No the door panels don't need to come off. There are two plastic covers in the bottom of the door. You remove those, then take the glass right down to the service position which is just below the wiping seal. Then up inside those two slots, you can get a torx driver in there and rotate the adjuster which raises and lowers the lifter on each side so the glass is within the two marks at the same point for the front and rear edge of the glass (i.e level)

The torx on the lifters is quite shallow and the metal not so hard. If they won't turn easily, then don't try forcing the driver as the torx will get damaged and you are then stuffed.

The OP needs to read up on the window glass alignment procedure or get the dealer to do it and solve the drop problem.

Last edited by voxmagna; 11-07-2013 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:55 PM   #14
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Thanks for that will take a look over the weekend when I've got a bit more time n see if I can lower the windows a bit.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:51 AM   #15
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Just took a look at the windows and there sittin as they should the seal is between the two markings on the window on both sides, now I'm thinking the door latch that unlocks when you press the key fob may be sticking, I don't know either way I'm just even more confused with it. :-(
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:20 AM   #16
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Good to check the glass heights anyway.

You might be right about the door latches. The window drop function applies to both glasses at the same time. You said unlock by opening the door drops them and the key fob should be just doing the same thing. Unless as you suspect the keyfob unlock is not moving a switch in the door lock far enough. When you pull the handle with a door closed to get the glass to drop, it has to come out quite a distance. But when you operate the key fob there is just a short whirr/clunk from the lock.

What I did discover with vcds is I now have the option set so that if I lock the door and forget an open window, one long press on the remote lock button closes all windows.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #17
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I think the fob is working ok as I was trying things today and I tricked the door into thinking it was closed by closing the latch by hand with the door open then locked and unlocked and the window dropped a good 10-15mm, got me thinking that the heavy doors over time may have dropped and are not letting the latch release properly, this might be why pulling the handle a little releases the latch just enough to drop the window to the right hight. Think ill have another play about with it tomorrow, this will not beat me,lol I am determined I'll get it sorted, hopefully lol
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:35 PM   #18
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No the door panels don't need to come off. There are two plastic covers in the bottom of the door. You remove those, then take the glass right down to the service position which is just below the wiping seal. Then up inside those two slots, you can get a torx driver in there and rotate the adjuster which raises and lowers the lifter on each side so the glass is within the two marks at the same point for the front and rear edge of the glass (i.e level)

The torx on the lifters is quite shallow and the metal not so hard. If they won't turn easily, then don't try forcing the driver as the torx will get damaged and you are then stuffed.
Good to know this for future reference. Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:42 PM   #19
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I think the fob is working ok as I was trying things today and I tricked the door into thinking it was closed by closing the latch by hand with the door open then locked and unlocked and the window dropped a good 10-15mm, got me thinking that the heavy doors over time may have dropped and are not letting the latch release properly, this might be why pulling the handle a little releases the latch just enough to drop the window to the right hight. Think ill have another play about with it tomorrow, this will not beat me,lol I am determined I'll get it sorted, hopefully lol
Due to your persistence, you may be on to something.

Do your doors close with difficulty? In other words, do you have to slam them hard before they latch closed?

I am thinking possible door jam adjustment. Just a thought.

Also, try a bit of WD40 or similar, in the latch mechanism. See if it frees up anything. Use very little.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:54 PM   #20
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I think the fob is working ok as I was trying things today and I tricked the door into thinking it was closed by closing the latch by hand with the door open then locked and unlocked and the window dropped a good 10-15mm, got me thinking that the heavy doors over time may have dropped and are not letting the latch release properly, this might be why pulling the handle a little releases the latch just enough to drop the window to the right hight. Think ill have another play about with it tomorrow, this will not beat me,lol I am determined I'll get it sorted, hopefully lol
You can do the same thing by sliding a screwdriver shaft into the door lock with it open. The system then thinks the door is closed.

Those doors are very heavy. There are measurements they call 'shuts', basically it is getting the same gap all around the door when it is shut confirming the door is square in its opening. But there is something else that matters. When the door closes, the inside of the door needs to make some pressure contact with the rubber seal, else you can get leaks. I usually run a thin feeler guage or card around to make sure there is some tension. To get that right the door can usually be moved inwards and outwards on its hinges. After getting that right you have to make a similar adjustment to the lock 'keep' which is the steel loop on the door frame.

Remember that door alignment also affects the position of the glass relative to the roof seal and those marks. You can adjust the glass independently of the door, so you must make sure the door is square and at the correct depth first.

I was wondering if your door glasses were not sitting central in the roof U seal slot. That could put more pressure and friction on the glass so when you use the remote, nothing happens because the motor has tripped on excessive friction. As soon as you start to open the door you change the friction and the glass appears to drop o.k.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:16 PM   #21
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Hi, I'm reposting in this thread because a clear answer was not given to the issue of the window drops not being sufficient, different or incorrect (whatever that is).

I've just been through the process of setting up the front door glass positions. I had replaced the passenger door window regulator with new and repaired the wire in the driver door regulator.

After setting up and levelling both door glasses I noticed the glass drop on the passenger side was a nice 13mm but only 6mm on the driver side - only just enough to clear the roof seal.

Got out VCDS and it kept telling me the drops on both sides were 5-6% but they were physically different. I can find nothing in VCDS adaptation to make changes to the drop distance so I asume it is fixed.

After much puzzling I think I finally worked out what is going on. When the door glass is raised to the top position, any backlash in the motor gear or lack of tension in the wire is taken out because the motor is locked out on over torque. That's how the system knows where the top and bottpm limits are. However, when the glass is dropped, the system only knows about the motor revolutions and counts these to what it assumes is 5-6% required. If you raise the door glass then physically try to push the glass down you can measure the backlash. What you will find is the backlash plus the actual drop is about the right amount for correct window drop (>10mm I would expect). if you momentarily operate the window down switch from a previous up position you can hear the backlash taken up by the motor.

What will I do about my drivers side? Well for now it is just about acceptable and I would have to remove the outer and inner door cards to confirm by pushing down on the glass where the backlash is. I don't really want to go there so soon!

I have a couple of suspicions. First could I have got a bit more tension on the wire by pulling out the tensioner. It is an auto tensioning system but maybe the tensioner can go another click. Next time the system is open, it should be easy to see if the backlash is in the wire loop, or at the winder drum on the gears to the motor.

There you have it. VCDS reports the drop %, but the actual drop you get depends on backlash in the wire loop.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:35 PM   #22
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No the door panels don't need to come off. There are two plastic covers in the bottom of the door. You remove those, then take the glass right down to the service position which is just below the wiping seal. Then up inside those two slots, you can get a torx driver in there and rotate the adjuster which raises and lowers the lifter on each side so the glass is within the two marks at the same point for the front and rear edge of the glass (i.e level)

The torx on the lifters is quite shallow and the metal not so hard. If they won't turn easily, then don't try forcing the driver as the torx will get damaged and you are then stuffed.
Hi. Can someone link me to a full How To, or somehow explain further?

I've taken off those plastic plugs and see two things. Firstly a Torx screw set into a slot; and secondly a gap (about size of a screwdriver shaft). I was hesitant to turn the Torx screw, as it looked more like a holding screw for the mechanism for the entire window; and presumed that by loosening, moving the screw (i.e. adjust its horizontal alignment) were moving other parts. Whereas I presume the height adjustment is within the gap/slot. I put a driver up there, but couldn't reach anything - looked up and can only see a bit of mechanism.

Can anyone confirm - if I want to adjust window height - that I should be turning the visible Torx screw, or instead I should be placing a torx driver up into the slot alongside? (and size?)

Thanks
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:19 PM   #23
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Assuming you have read all that I posted and have checked up the bottom of the door hole with a led torch, you will engage your torx driver fully and turn the Torx screw you can see.

First you will have made sure you have a good fully charged battery because you will need to turn the screw in the right direction for up and down. there will be a lot of window up/downs to get it right. If you have a suspect or failing window regulator the large number of up down movements you might need could cause failure - but then if it was bad it could have failed on the road anyway. Just listen and if there are any strange grating sounds it is on the way out!
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:03 PM   #24
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Hi. Can someone link me to a full How To, or somehow explain further?

I've taken off those plastic plugs and see two things. Firstly a Torx screw set into a slot; and secondly a gap (about size of a screwdriver shaft). I was hesitant to turn the Torx screw, as it looked more like a holding screw for the mechanism for the entire window; and presumed that by loosening, moving the screw (i.e. adjust its horizontal alignment) were moving other parts. Whereas I presume the height adjustment is within the gap/slot. I put a driver up there, but couldn't reach anything - looked up and can only see a bit of mechanism.

Can anyone confirm - if I want to adjust window height - that I should be turning the visible Torx screw, or instead I should be placing a torx driver up into the slot alongside? (and size?)

Thanks
The easily visible screw in the slot is for anchoring the mechanism and for adjusting the angle of the glass from the horizontal as you say. The Torx screws to adjust the height are up in the gap to the side of the slot. These screws are attached to the clamps which hold the bottom of the glass and that's why you need to lower the window all the way down to see them. Don't forget to press the window down button twice as the first lowered position leaves the window about 1 cm further up which makes seeing and locating the screws more difficult. As Vox says, you'll probably need a torch to locate their positions. From memory it's a T25 you'll need.
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:18 AM   #25
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The T25 Torx screw adjusts the height at either end of the glass and hence the slope. To adjust height only you adjust both screws by the same number of turns. Keep a note of how many turns you make and direction for each adjuster, because when the regulator is first assembled the adjusters should be about right sitting half way in their adjustment range.

You reach the lifter adjustment screws up through the bottom of the doors with the glass in the lowest service position. The screws are made of softish material and not a good precision Torx head. You must use a fresh T25 Torx and hold it pushed in straight and hard. The screws may be hard to turn at first, especially if water has been leaking past the long glass wiper seals. If you damage the T25 Torx adjuster screw head you will be in for a whole new expensive repair job!
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