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Old 06-17-2013, 11:41 AM   #26
lanmarc
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I did sort of reply to a similar question and you can find it in an earlier post on this thread.
Azanoncello, another member of this group, posted a detailed "how-to" on the A-pillar trim removal.
You can it find it here
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:45 AM   #27
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My 2009 has leaked intermittently from various locations along the roof line. The first time I reported the issue to the dealer, Volkswagen of Union, they charged me to reset the window parameters. The leak has since switched to the standard passenger side A pillar leak, and the car stinks like mildew. It went back to the dealer today, and they informed me over the phone that the roof drains were "all jammed up with pollen, pine needles, and road grit." They wanted approximately $450 to clean that out and adjust the windows (again). There was also another issue which I felt should have been covered under warranty which they are attempting to dodge as well, in addition to the costs to clean the car to a state where the smell does not make me feel ill and/or contribute to respiratory illness. Instead, the car came home with me after an overpriced oil change.

So, frustrated, I've turned here. Learned a lot. Located and tested all roof drains. All are perfectly clear. The 2009 doesn't have the hose end issue the 2007 had. The only thing I can figure at this point is that the seals are generally in need of lubrication (which was only offered by the dealer in passing, to the tune of $300) as they are paling and not as supple as I've read they should be. Ordered the roof sealant lubricant today for about $40. We'll see if this fixes the problem, but one thing is for sure: The service department at VW of Union outright lied to me and tried to steal whatever they could dupe me into giving them, when they should be taking care of the issue based on the warranty they sold me. Shocker. Only question is how to document this clear case of consumer fraud to prevent them from repeating this nonsense in the future. Shameful.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:02 PM   #28
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I hate cars with a bad personality smell which can be hard to get rid of. Some days o.k, then you leave the car standing a few days and it is back. Worst thing is to have somebody spill milk in your car - honks for months!

After my roof and trunk leaks, the dealer included replacement carpets in the warranty repair. Since they stripped them out to do the investigation and repairs, what they did seemed logical anyway.

I do not know what is involved to do that, but getting them out to clean with a carpet shampoo and smell you like then finish with a steam cleaner should do the job. These carpets are usually all nylon or polypropylene and you could even pressure wash and hang them out to dry. Working from the top side with carpets fitted means you are not cleaning behind and smells can come back so treat and clean the floor pans too. These Bio sprays used for surface cleaning work well - also when sprayed in the inlet ducts to clean the air con!

It sounds like you are getting on top of doing some things yourself which will be 'honest work' in the end and save you a lot on dealer prices.
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #29
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Red face Blocked drain tubes

thanks for this very good guide. I have passed a cable thru my drain tubes and at 34ins or 87cm they both block. Any urologists out there know if this is normal or do I have a blockage......any help appreciated
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:27 PM   #30
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Being rubber, a wire can easily foul on bends. Try the wire in the opposite direction or preferably use some plastic strimmer line or the springy flat section drain clearing 'wire'. I think the sharp end point of wire could be fouling on the rubber - try bending a small loop on the end for a soft entry. I'm not a Gyneocologist.

Usually I pour water in one end and see if it comes out the other and NOT inside the car. 1/2 liter in should be about 1/2 liter out.

I'm not a Urologist, but I know 'good flow' is important on EOS roof drains.

Last edited by voxmagna; 09-06-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
being rubber, a wire can easily foul on bends. Try the wire in the opposite direction or preferably use some plastic strimmer line or the springy flat section drain clearing 'wire'. I think the sharp end point of wire could be fouling on the rubber - try bending a small loop on the end for a soft entry. I'm not a gyneocologist.

Usually i pour water in one end and see if it comes out the other and not inside the car. 1/2 liter in should be about 1/2 liter out.

I'm not a urologist, but i know 'good flow' is important on eos roof drains.
:d:d:d
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:32 PM   #32
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Here is the drain leak problem shown on a Japanese youTube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSjsAok2Ius
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:58 AM   #33
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Just in case anybody gets confused by the youtube video, removes the trim then silicone seals the drain connection, thinking they have fixed the problem!

It correctly shows the location of the roof drain connection behind the front roof pillar trim (1 each side). But water coming out is due to a downstream blockage, water then backing up in the drain tube and not a problem with the connection. That silicone connector is push fit and good enough to seal when there is no blockage further down.

I haven't tried an air line on that yet or water hose at no more than 8-10 psi to see if it can work as good as a wire. Some inventive individual could sell a long length of plastic tube with a tire connector on one end, so you could use the spare tire to do something similar for all the boxed in drains. Some of those drain tubes are quite large diameter (they need to be!) and need a good flushing. Once the rubber drain tube size is confirmed, a snake wire incorporating a circular nylon brush on the end would be a good tool. That is how they sweep chimneys!
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:53 PM   #34
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This fix made my day today.

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:59 AM   #35
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Another happy customer, thanks for the fix!
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:14 AM   #36
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Default Ianmarc leaks in EOS Front Pillar

Thank you so much Ianmarc for your information on repairing the front pillar leaks in my 2008 Eos from a couple of years ago. I've been meaning to write and thank you. We were able to peel apart the front and find the drain tube. Fixed it with a very small thin wire tie as glue will not stick to the tubing.Duh-you would think VW engineers would have know that in the design. I am now having a leak problem in the back passenger window area. The water is dripping down the window. Could this be the same type of problem? Does the tube drain system also run down the back?

Thanks again for your time.
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:46 AM   #37
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Look here and you will find all the answers:

http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/show...ighlight=drain

PS: Sites like vweosclub have good search engines!
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Old 10-05-2015, 11:47 PM   #38
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We just purchased a 2008 Komfort 2.0 TFSI Eos. It is a fun car. We, too, had the leaks at the A pillar on both sides. Using the great information posted here I was able to gain access to the tube and collar and make repairs. Here is how I did it:

The A pillar trim is actually two pieces. There is a top corner piece and a longer piece that runs the length of the pillar (the one with the vent opening in it). Begin by pulling the top corner piece down and slightly inward. Pull firmly but carefully....it will move!


As the corner trim comes down the seam between the corner trim and length-wise trim will become obvious. Just keep working the two pieces downward to get room to access the tube.

When you can see and access the tube you can work the plastic collar off its mounting point. Note the plastic tube in held by a clip but it will release the tube fairly easily. Once you have the tube out of the clip and collar loose from its mount just carefully pull the tube and collar out so you can work with it.


On my car, the tube was clearly NOT in full contact with the collar creating gaps that allowed the water to leak. But, the tube would not pull free of the collar and I did not force it. My solution was to put a cable tie around the collar.....no glue, no tape, no hot wax, just the cable tie. It seems to have worked. I washed the car after doing this to both sides and no leaks! I'll give a follow-up report down the road but it seems to have done the trick!


I hope this helps!

Here's another great posting about this subject:
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/show...ighlight=drain
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:17 AM   #39
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Thanks that's a good illustrated write up for a problem several have found.

However, I will add something that isn't obvious when you see the trouble VW have gone to designing in drains in the first place:

If your roof and sunroof seals are making good contact and sealing, you should not get water into the 'drains' in the first place. The drains are like a bucket under a leaking roof! The unlikely exception is if you were driving in rain with the sunroof open.

When you get water leaking from the 'A' pillars (hose) the first thing to do is go around all the roof seals with thin paper checking for seal to seal contact pressure. The common weak point seems to be the front left and right corners of the sunroof glass seal which can take up a permanent 'set' pushing the seal corners back towards the holding flange. With patience you can work in Krytox massaging with your fingers and pull the seal forwards from the flange a little. Then do my 'river of water' hosepipe test over the roof, or run the car through a car wash. I did phone my local human operated car wash and asked if its program could be set for just rinsing without the brushes which they said was possible.
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:39 PM   #40
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Thanks to your post, all seems fixed. Thanks 😀
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Old 02-15-2017, 02:07 PM   #41
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Hopefully this will follow on from the previous roof leak issues? Oh well here goes. I arrived back at the car earlier in the week and both front seats where wet on the outside bolster cushions, looking above them on the roof the trim between the front screen and roof panel was wet. If I open the sun roof there is a seal and channel to guide the water into channel at the side of the sunroof and out down the a pillar drains. My question is should the side to side channel at the rear of the sunroof reach over the front to back channel to pass the water between them? Mine seem short at both sides and just pour any water collected in to the roof trim above the door glass? I hope this makes some sense and look forward to and would appreciate any comments or suggestions.
Thanks,
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:10 PM   #42
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Quote:
If your roof and sunroof seals are making good contact and sealing, you should not get water into the 'drains' in the first place. The drains are like a bucket under a leaking roof! The unlikely exception is if you were driving in rain with the sunroof open.
You still seem to think the drains are there to allow water past the seals and to channel it away?

Study your sunroof when it is closed. The seal around it has contact pressure with the roof body seal. Do you see any slots in there to take water from the roof and pour it into those drains? No you don't!

Yes, it's true that if water does get in the channels it either goes forwards down the 'A' pillar drains, or backwards to the rear drains, depending on which slope you park your car. It is also true that if you drip water into those channels they should empty through the front or rear drains (if not blocked) and not over your seats. Read how I diagnosed my problem with those 'A' pillar couplings and how I fixed mine with hose barbs. There are a few misleading ideas in this thread. Tywraps around the coupling for a quick fix might not always work. The 'A' pillars get very hot at the top in Summer and nylon tiewraps are a waste of time, because they stretch when hot.

This is what you have to do:

1. Do the 'A'pillar coupling fix properly with hose barbs and fuel line clips as I described.

2. Then check both front and rear drains can take water away, it runs out in the wheel arches and they are not blocked.

3. Look at the sunroof seal checking there is contact pressure all the way around. Pay particular attention to the two front corners where the bend radii are sharper and the roof seal half can work itself forwards leaving a gap to the sunroof seal and no contact pressure.

4. When you think the sunroof seal is o.k, put some dry paper in the drain channels, close the sunroof and pour a bucket of water over it. Open the sunroof and if the paper is wet you failed to do 3. well enough.

Finally, the water may not be leaking at the sunroof seal, but rain is being blown inside or running inside from each side if the door glasses are not making contact with the seal at the top and sides. Check both with a thin PostIt note for contact pressure all the way around. If the tops of each door glass are tilted (misaligned!), you will not get contact pressure. If you close a front window and there is contact pressure initially, but this slackens after a while, your window regulators have lost tension. Another clue to this problem is when the window drop is not very much before you open the door.

If you don't work though this carefully and methodically, you will just go around in circles. There is no simple quick fix.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:54 PM   #43
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Thanks for the reply. I've checked all drains are clear and they are so that's good. I've lubed the seals around the sunroof several times and they seem supple and appear to make contact all the way round. The car is sat out in the rain now so tomorrow will tell. Wish me luck.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:11 PM   #44
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If you see water on the inside of the front windows and the top of the door capping trim/passengers ankle, it is getting in through the top of the door glass.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:44 PM   #45
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I forgot to mention that not only should there be face to face contact and some friction doing the paper test, but each half of the seal must be watertight to the bodywork/panel or glass, otherwise water will just work around it. My seals all seem very solid in that respect. I did manage to move the two front corners a little after some hair dryer warming, to get the sunroof to seal, but they were still hard to move. There must be some sealant goo in there.

I've found some instances of 'bad glue' and I don't think it is VW's strong point. Similarly the rubber they use to weld butt ends of seals across joins hasn't always worked for me and in every case I've cleaned their joins and replaced their fillet with black silicone gasket which has never shifted or leaked. There are amazing Technical Bulletins to read about replacing seals and doing this Butyl rubber welding. Look around the front of the trunk seals in the corners where there is a conjoin of 2 or 3 seals and you will find this 'skilful' work and part of the reason why VW roof technicians have special training.
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