The previous owner of MY07 had allowed water into the cabin and trunk before I got my EOS. Seals were fixed under warranty but over time I kept fighting track breaks on the defogger. I had repaired so many tracks with silver paint the glass looked horrible. As I repaired a track and applied power, it would burn open circuit further along due to corrosion. In addition, the radio performance was getting worse because they use the rear screen as one of the antennae.
I researched replacing the heater element with a kit, but there's no way they could make their tracks so fine they would look as good as the OE. I bit the bullet and stumped up £250 for the OE tinted rear screen. U.K windscreen shops cannot offer equivalents for the EOS, they can only source the OE glass. My next decision was to have it fitted 'professionally' or do it myself. Having read the shop instructions I went off to local windscreen repairers to see if they knew what they were about on the EOS and what they would charge. At around £85 it was a no-brainer to attempt a DIY fit. But hang on, they had only replaced Peugeot cab glasses. I opened the roof and asked how they would get access in the limited space under the glass frame. Shock and Awe! They said two people would heave on the cutting wire to cut out the old glass. Then I explained the frame could easily be distorted leaving me with a bad roof. Therefore I decided DIY was the only option to avoid collateral roof damage. I've never replaced a bonded screen glass before, let alone done it on an EOS.
My long post with photos will explain the repair. It won't be for everyone because it is 8 out of 10 level of difficulty, but show the post to a repairer and you may get a better job done:
Things you need:
You need one full sunny day, EOS parked front facing South and a top cover in case of a shower! A second pair of watching eyes and hands is very useful, but I managed it on my own. I took most of a day on my own, but could do another in a morning.
1. A windscreen fitting kit containing one 310ml cartridge, glass Pre-cleaner, Black primer and felt application buds. I bought the Dinitrol 500 system kit (Ebay). This is a K1 PUR which means it is self curing by heat and moisture without extra activators. Note: You will only use half a cartridge for the rear glass. Get at least 3 pairs of polythene or surgical gloves - it is black and messy!
2. Two short lengths of adhesive backed black neoprene foam 10mm wide X 65mm X 6mm thick for top corners.
3. Wood alcohol for cleaning any excess PUR - work clean!
4. Stanley or other craft knife blades.
5. Square/flat windscreen removal cutting wire 0.6-0.7mm wide and handles. 2M is enough for this screen, cut into 70cm lengths.
6. Make up an Awl using 1.5mm stainless welding wire about 355mm long with a sharp point set firmly in an aluminium handle. The awl is used to
make the starter hole, but it may be possible using pliers to slowly force the cutting wire through without the awl.
7. Make up a pair of short props to hold back the hinges and keep the glass tray in the optimum position for all round access.
8. Two small 2.5 inch glass lifter suckers. Note: The larger 4" suckers don't work so well due to glass curvature. The glass weight is 5.7Kg.
9. Dust sheets to protect the trunk lid - you will use this as a work surface!
10. 1 inch masking tape and paper.
11. Plastic glazing packers/spacers 4 off 20mm X 100mm X 1.5mm (black), 2 off 20mm X100mm X 1mm (green).
12. Covered workmate to hold new glass.
Preparation is everything! Put the PUR cartridge behind the front windscreen. It will warm up the contents and make getting a decent bead a lot easier. Lower the roof to the position shown in my photos. Stop the roof just above the height of the two props, whilst holding the props each side to catch the hinges as the glass frame slowly drops back. Ignore the warning dings after the key is turned off. WARNING: My first props were dowel wood with notches cut in the end to take the hinge. There is a convenient hole located under the hinge to drop the dowel rod into. However, releasing the frame from the props requires the roof operation to open push switch down. NEVER close which would cause the hinge to bind solid. It is too easy to hit the switch the wrong way. I've therefore redesigned my props by adding a slide over section of tube notched at the end and held in place with a pin. Without operating the roof switch it is possible to have somebody support the rear center of the frame whilst the pins are pulled, release and remove the props, then operate the roof control. The dimensions I've given for my hinge props give the most working space under and around the glass frame.
With both rear glass frame hinges sat on props, mask inside the channel between the glass edge and the painted frame to protect the paint finish, then cover over the outer painted wings with newspaper. Make some important observations. Check the gaps between each side of the glass and the frame. Mine were both equal at 1.5mm try the black plastic packers. We will use the black plastic packers when the new screen goes back to get the same spacing top and bottom both sides. Now check the top left and right corners of the glass relative to the painted frame. As you look along the top edge of the glass it should by true and aligned at each corner. Now look at both bottom corners. Take photos before starting glass removal! Now look at the depth the glass sits in the frame. This will be determined by small rubber spacer blocks fixed on the OE glass, but check the glass just sits a fraction below the frame height evenly down both sides.
Trim removal: Working from the rear seat inside, The black trim at the top and bottom of the frame must be removed. The bottom curved trim is held by 3 black push in porcupine studs which need lifting out with a forked tool or prised up each side with a screwdriver. If you break them, replace with new. The front edge of the trim is held with 4 steel gripping clips. With the pegs removed, push the trim parallel to the glass and the front clips will release. Some or all clips may stay fixed to the metal frame. Note which way up they are, then remove each one and fit to the plastic trim. The top soft trim is a little easier. Start pulling the bottom left corner then work along the bottom edge to the opposite corner then lift off. Disconnect the heater wires (pull back out of their sockets).
The black elasticated cords that tension the side flaps are now clearly visible. GOTCHA: Attach a loop of string to each cord and pass it around a headrest to pull the cord away from the frame. When you start cutting the foam bead along the bottom, unless you have an observer or synchronized puller on the inside it is easy to trap and cut an elastic cord!
.
I researched replacing the heater element with a kit, but there's no way they could make their tracks so fine they would look as good as the OE. I bit the bullet and stumped up £250 for the OE tinted rear screen. U.K windscreen shops cannot offer equivalents for the EOS, they can only source the OE glass. My next decision was to have it fitted 'professionally' or do it myself. Having read the shop instructions I went off to local windscreen repairers to see if they knew what they were about on the EOS and what they would charge. At around £85 it was a no-brainer to attempt a DIY fit. But hang on, they had only replaced Peugeot cab glasses. I opened the roof and asked how they would get access in the limited space under the glass frame. Shock and Awe! They said two people would heave on the cutting wire to cut out the old glass. Then I explained the frame could easily be distorted leaving me with a bad roof. Therefore I decided DIY was the only option to avoid collateral roof damage. I've never replaced a bonded screen glass before, let alone done it on an EOS.
My long post with photos will explain the repair. It won't be for everyone because it is 8 out of 10 level of difficulty, but show the post to a repairer and you may get a better job done:
Things you need:
You need one full sunny day, EOS parked front facing South and a top cover in case of a shower! A second pair of watching eyes and hands is very useful, but I managed it on my own. I took most of a day on my own, but could do another in a morning.
1. A windscreen fitting kit containing one 310ml cartridge, glass Pre-cleaner, Black primer and felt application buds. I bought the Dinitrol 500 system kit (Ebay). This is a K1 PUR which means it is self curing by heat and moisture without extra activators. Note: You will only use half a cartridge for the rear glass. Get at least 3 pairs of polythene or surgical gloves - it is black and messy!
2. Two short lengths of adhesive backed black neoprene foam 10mm wide X 65mm X 6mm thick for top corners.
3. Wood alcohol for cleaning any excess PUR - work clean!
4. Stanley or other craft knife blades.
5. Square/flat windscreen removal cutting wire 0.6-0.7mm wide and handles. 2M is enough for this screen, cut into 70cm lengths.
6. Make up an Awl using 1.5mm stainless welding wire about 355mm long with a sharp point set firmly in an aluminium handle. The awl is used to
make the starter hole, but it may be possible using pliers to slowly force the cutting wire through without the awl.
7. Make up a pair of short props to hold back the hinges and keep the glass tray in the optimum position for all round access.
8. Two small 2.5 inch glass lifter suckers. Note: The larger 4" suckers don't work so well due to glass curvature. The glass weight is 5.7Kg.
9. Dust sheets to protect the trunk lid - you will use this as a work surface!
10. 1 inch masking tape and paper.
11. Plastic glazing packers/spacers 4 off 20mm X 100mm X 1.5mm (black), 2 off 20mm X100mm X 1mm (green).
12. Covered workmate to hold new glass.
Preparation is everything! Put the PUR cartridge behind the front windscreen. It will warm up the contents and make getting a decent bead a lot easier. Lower the roof to the position shown in my photos. Stop the roof just above the height of the two props, whilst holding the props each side to catch the hinges as the glass frame slowly drops back. Ignore the warning dings after the key is turned off. WARNING: My first props were dowel wood with notches cut in the end to take the hinge. There is a convenient hole located under the hinge to drop the dowel rod into. However, releasing the frame from the props requires the roof operation to open push switch down. NEVER close which would cause the hinge to bind solid. It is too easy to hit the switch the wrong way. I've therefore redesigned my props by adding a slide over section of tube notched at the end and held in place with a pin. Without operating the roof switch it is possible to have somebody support the rear center of the frame whilst the pins are pulled, release and remove the props, then operate the roof control. The dimensions I've given for my hinge props give the most working space under and around the glass frame.
With both rear glass frame hinges sat on props, mask inside the channel between the glass edge and the painted frame to protect the paint finish, then cover over the outer painted wings with newspaper. Make some important observations. Check the gaps between each side of the glass and the frame. Mine were both equal at 1.5mm try the black plastic packers. We will use the black plastic packers when the new screen goes back to get the same spacing top and bottom both sides. Now check the top left and right corners of the glass relative to the painted frame. As you look along the top edge of the glass it should by true and aligned at each corner. Now look at both bottom corners. Take photos before starting glass removal! Now look at the depth the glass sits in the frame. This will be determined by small rubber spacer blocks fixed on the OE glass, but check the glass just sits a fraction below the frame height evenly down both sides.
Trim removal: Working from the rear seat inside, The black trim at the top and bottom of the frame must be removed. The bottom curved trim is held by 3 black push in porcupine studs which need lifting out with a forked tool or prised up each side with a screwdriver. If you break them, replace with new. The front edge of the trim is held with 4 steel gripping clips. With the pegs removed, push the trim parallel to the glass and the front clips will release. Some or all clips may stay fixed to the metal frame. Note which way up they are, then remove each one and fit to the plastic trim. The top soft trim is a little easier. Start pulling the bottom left corner then work along the bottom edge to the opposite corner then lift off. Disconnect the heater wires (pull back out of their sockets).
The black elasticated cords that tension the side flaps are now clearly visible. GOTCHA: Attach a loop of string to each cord and pass it around a headrest to pull the cord away from the frame. When you start cutting the foam bead along the bottom, unless you have an observer or synchronized puller on the inside it is easy to trap and cut an elastic cord!
.