How to retrofit the Dynaudio amplifier?

aku-aku said:

I finally got my hands on the midrange speakers and Dynaudio amplifier, and now I've got a big project to do



After trawling just about all the internet, I've found out that there are guides out there, but they have broken links and missing pictures now. So I have a few questions...



Power

The power needs to come from a permanent source ("terminal 30"). This needs to come from the engine bay, and this doesn't sound too hard according to this (English for RHD) and this (German for LHD). When it comes to the connection to the fuse box, there are a few pictures here - but the part number for the service wire for the fuse, listed here doesn't seem available any more. Question - has anyone who has retrofitted an amplifier made the connection to the permanent battery source in the "correct" way - and what's the right connector to use?



Amplifier connections

The connections for the amplifier are 1J0962623 and 1J0962624. There's a seller on German eBay selling these plugs with pins and pigtails in place, which makes the job a bit easier. This is the easy part!



Speaker connections

Each door now needs three pairs of speaker wires; the existing setup has only one. This requires adding wires to the wiring harness, and I found instructions on how to get at the harness. Question: does anyone know the specification for the pins that go in the door wiring harness, and does anyone know how to get to the "other" side (the car side)?



Putting it all together

Once I've got answers to the above questions, my overall plan is to remove the centre console to install the wiring (input from the head unit to the amplifier; CAN-bus; ground; and reusing the original speaker wires for the woofers); the wires to the front speakers can then be routed around existing channels to the door connectors. Question: does anyone have a good idea about how to route the additional wires for the rear tweeters?



Of course, when I get around to this I'll put together a full howto with pictures and part numbers - and the sooner I find the answers to my questions, the sooner I can get started!

Click to expand...

I wish you good luck on your endeavors aku-aku and will be following this thread avidly. [emoji106]

Mick

Presumably you mean the wiring from the door that passes through the convoluted rubber sleeve that runs into the interior bulkhead left and right of the front console?

IMHO you need to print off the relevant sections of wiring diagrams from ELSAwin. They may not be 100% accurate so you will have to be a little circumspect as to their validity. But if you disbelieve everything until you confirm with your own tests, you can make something of their information.

What you realy need is somebody here with the full Dynaudio kit in their EOS prepared to share their VIN with you. Then you can trot off to the V.W website and pay a few beans to download a specific wiring diagram? Of course you will share it with the rest of us!

PS: Did you read my PM?

I also found the details of a similar retrofit in a Scirocco (part 1, part 2) which is kind-of readable using machine translation (it's originally in Russian), and gives an indication of some of the things that need doing - but sadly doesn't add some of the detail I need (like how to do the fuse box wiring correctly) and differs in others (the amplifier wiring uses a different plug).

On top of that, I found a document about retrofitting Dynaudio in the B6 Passat, which has more details of the connectors required and suggests that a connector 000979306 could be used for the fuse box instead of the apparently unavailable 000979309. Unfortunately the list of required connectors doesn't show which connectors are required for which socket, and the link mentioned on the first page is dead and even archive.org doesn't have a copy.

And here's a document detailing how to disassemble the engine bay fuse box (around page 10) - no details on the kinds of connector it needs though.

And here's a document detailing how to disassemble the engine bay fuse box (around page 10) - no details on the kinds of connector it needs though.

Click to expand...

There are hidden gems in that link to g5_97-eng.pdf (English!). Bear in mind it's for a Golf 5, but it has test procedures for all the control modules using VAS (or VCDS) and even shows you how to repair connectors and wires.

The fuse box in the engine bay looks fun. The underside of the fuse box looks like this, and it plugs into a housing that holds all the wires that go to the electrical consumers. On the Jetta wiring diagram the amplifier is protected by fuse 18, which goes to terminal 17, which from this close-up looks like a 4.8mm terminal - and so a 000979306 terminal should do the trick, along with a rubber grommet because that's how the others are done.

I'll have a lot of cleaning up to do for the bits of my investigation that turn out to be red herrings

On my engine bay fusebox I remember mapping the fuses to confirm which sources were ignition key on switched and which were 24/7. High power multi channel speakers can consume serious high amps because the speakers are small and inefficient. For my little 1-2 amp 'tap' I used one of those fuse piggy backs which keeps the original circuit and gives a second blade holder for mods. I wouldn't recommend them for anything more than a few amps draw, although the second fuse and holder will just about lay flat and you can still fit the cover.

On my fuse box there are some unused bolt down terminals at the far end nearest the wing for bigger loads. You can drill a small hole if it's not already there to bring in wires. I didn't come across the fuse that melts the box or saw any evidence of burning on mine, but if there are multiple sliding connectors to increase contact resistance that won't help.

I found the correct wiring diagrams.

There are two versions of the engine bay fuse box, which are laid out very differently - but the amplifier fuse is number 18 in both of them, and the use of fuse 18 for the amplifier seems to be consistent across model years.

I'm not starting on this yet, but so far I haven't found any information that contradicts what's above. When I get to actually doing it, I'll write it up fully with all required information

Since I'm collecting more information here, I happened upon a page where someone wrote up how to do this in a Touran. Not the same car, I know, but the same platform and similar concepts - and it gives a bit of detail about the fuse box, as well as setting expectations for how many parts will need to be taken out of the interior.

Progress is slow. The amplifier connectors didn't arrive, the used ones I ordered didn't have enough pins in them, and the pins that are in them are a pain to get out. I was just about to write that it's not worth the effort and you should just open your wallet to www.naviservice.com.pl who will custom make you a Dynaudio wiring harness for around €100, but their site doesn't work.

Anyway, one bit that I did figure out is how to install the mounting bracket for the amplifier. You'll need one 1K0035933, one 1K0035883, two M6 Nylock nuts, two M6x10mm bolts, two 4.8x17 self-tapping screws, and two plastic retaining parts - I couldn't get hold of the proper ones so I used VW part 441035555.

After pulling out the pieces of carpet on each side, the small bracket 1K0035933 sits quite low down (see picture). There are bolts sticking up from the floor that it slots on to - once it's in, it fastens in place with the Nylock nuts. Then put the plastic retaining lugs into the holes on the other side, put the amplifier plate in place, and fasten it to the mounting bracket using the M6x10 bolts and into the plastic retaining lugs on the other side with the 4.8x17 screws.

But now for a question.

My assumptions about how to route the wiring have been proved pretty comprehensively wrong. First, it's a right pain to get wiring under the carpet to the rear tweeters, so they'll have to run along the side. Second, it looks like the wiring from the amplifier to the head unit and elsewhere shouldn't take the direct route through the centre console, but instead should go along the side tunnel (because, apart from anything else, the sockets on the amplifier are on that side). So whilst it was fun removing the centre console to see how that lot works, it was ultimately pointless.

Could someone with Dynaudio please take a look at their setup and see if they can see which way the wires go, to confirm my suspicions?

Howto, shopping list and reference material

Day one completed. This retrofit is non-destructive, except for punching small holes in a few rubber grommets and removing the carpet cutouts for fitting the amplifier mounting, which are under the seat anyway. The wires are run out of sight but with minimal removal of the interior (rear side trim, footwells and glove box), and the power is sourced from the correct location in the electronics box. In other words, most people wouldn't notice that you've done it - apart from the sound - and it shouldn't get in the way of any work a dealer or other mechanic would want to do.

Part one covers everything except the door wiring (both the wiring to the door and the wiring in the door), connecting the new speaker wiring, coding, and anything that crops up. Part two covers everything related to the doors. Part three covers coding, testing and reassembly.

First, your shopping list.

Dynaudio kit
1Q0035456 amplifier x1 (various revisions available, made by Lear and Blaupunkt)
1Q0035454D front woofers x2
1Q0035411H tweeters x4
1Q0035415 or 7H0035415 front midrange x1
1Q0035416 or 7H0035416 front midrange x1
1Q0035453D or 3C0035453B rear woofers x2 (note: 1Q0035453D will require two extra 1J0972702 plugs, and you should remove the pins from the existing woofer plugs and insert them into the 1J0972702)
1Q0035217B speaker gasket x1
1Q0035218B speaker gasket x1
1K0035933 mounting bracket x1
1K0035883 mounting bracket x1
3C0971813 amplifier cover x1
Dynaudio decals x4, if you want to show off - I can't find the originals but these would do

Parts required
M5x12 hex-head bolts x6
M6x10mm bolts x2
M6 Nylock nuts x2
4.8x17 self-tapping screws x2
Plastic retainers P/N 441035555 x2
5mm rivets x12
Plastic zip ties x2
Door trim fasteners x however many you're planning on breaking

1.5mm2 wire, 16m length (eight colours of 2m length if possible)
0.5mm2 wire, 16m length (eight colours of 2m length if possible)
0.35mm2 twisted pair CAN-bus wire, 2.5m length
1.0mm2 wire, 44m length (four colours of 11m length if possible) TBC in part two
4.0mm2 wire, brown, 1m length
4.0mm2 wire, red, 2.5m length
2.5mm2 and 1.5mm2 wire, red and brown, short lengths
Heatshrink tube to fit the above wires

ISO speaker plug and socket with wire tails
Quadlock adapter for third-party Bluetooth kit (like this one)
As an alternative to the above, you could get an ISO speaker plug and socket without wire tails, and add an extra 8x male and female JPT connectors and switch the speaker connections around yourself. But my way allows you to disconnect the amplifier and put things back how they were more easily if things go wrong and you want to undo.)

10x male JPT 2.8mm connectors (Joint Power Timer)
4x female JPT 2.8mm connectors (Joint Power Timer)
8x female MCP 2.8mm connectors for 1.0mm wire
34x female MT 1.5mm connectors (Micro Timer)
1x female MCP 4.8mm connector for 4.0mm2 wire (part number 000979308)
1x eye connector for ground, 8mm hole, for 4.0mm2 wire
1x 1J0962623B connector (adjustment required if you get a different variant)
1x 1J0962624A connector (adjustment required if you get a different variant)
6x 1J0972712 connectors (and six additional male 2.8mm JPT connectors if they don't come with pins)
1x30A fuse
2x 1J0972702 connectors

Tools required
Torx screwdrivers (T15, T20, T25, T40)
A decent fold-over crimp tool for non-insulated terminals (like this one)
Trim removal tools
Wire cutters and strippers
Pop riveter
Metric socket set with extension
If your connectors have pins stuck in them, a set of pin removal tools and, additionally, a decent Micro Timer pin removal tool because the cheap ones from China will not fit
Soldering iron
OBDeleven or VCDS, for programming

Optional tools
Door trim removal tool (if you want to make your life easier)

Reference material
Amplifier pinout (checked against Elsawin, this is accurate)

Howto, part one

This is part one of three.

Instructions
prep-0. About this preparation
Here, we modify the retrofit audio harness by adding another CAN wire for the amplifier. We will join wires on to the ISO speaker connectors that plug into the harness to send the output from the head unit to the amplifier, and send the signal to the woofers down the existing speaker wires. We will also prepare the power wires, since the amplifier has three connections each for positive and negative, and check the amplifier connectors to see if they need modifying.

prep-1. CAN-bus and wiring harness
Create a splitter for the CAN-bus by joining a 20cm length of the CAN wire and the long remaining part (at least 2m) to two female 2.8mm connectors. Terminate the other end of the 20cm length with two male 2.8mm connectors.
Remove pins 9 and 10 from the two sides of the retrofit audio harness and attach the CAN wire you just created in its place. Ensure all other pins on the power connector are connected straight-through. Leave the speaker connectors as they are.

prep-2. Input and woofer wiring
Join 2m lengths of 0.5mm2 wire to the female ISO speaker terminals.
Join 2m lengths of 1.5mm2 wire to the male ISO speaker terminals.

prep-3. Power wiring
Join two short lengths of 1.5mm2 wire and one short length of 2.5mm2 wire on to each of the 4mm2 power wires. Here's how to join multiple wires together.

prep-4. Amplifier connectors
Consult the pictures of connectors. If you have a 1J0962623, cut the right-hand side of the top-right lug off with a Stanley knife. If you have a 1J0962623A, remove the right-hand side of the top-right and bottom-right lugs. If you have a 1J0962624, remove the left-hand side of the bottom-left lug. All orientations are as per in the link - connector facing you, wires away from you, tapered end to the right.

0. About the installation
We are going to run wires to the amplifier, which will be under the left-hand seat, through the channel under the left-hand door. The wire to the left rear tweeter will go back through this channel; all other wires will go forward. The wires to the right speakers will go through the dashboard, and the wire to the right rear tweeter through the right-hand door channel. The woofers use the existing speaker wiring from the head unit, where we also get the input and the CAN-bus connection. The positive power wire will go to its correct place in the electronics box, the ground to a grounding point by the bonnet release. In order to avoid damaging connectors, they will only be crimped once the wires have got to where they need to be.

1. Before you begin
If possible, park somewhere that allows you to open both doors fully. Move the driver's seat all the way back and the steering wheel up. Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.

2. Preparing the mounting bracket
Pulling out the pieces of carpet on each side under the left-hand seat.
Install the small bracket 1K0035933 - it sits quite low down (see picture in post above). There are bolts sticking up from the floor that it slots on to - once it's in, fasten in place with the Nylock nuts.

3. Get everything out of the way
Remove the rear seat.
Remove the rear side trim (two T20 screws at the base, one T15 by the seat belt, disconnect the tweeters) and place them where the rear seat was.
Remove the bonnet release and accompanying panel.
Remove the right-hand side panel in the footwell, which should just pull off.
Remove the glove box.
Unscrew the panel above the pedals for access.
Remove the kick panels that run along the doors.
Remove the trim around the head unit using a nylon trim tool, then remove the head unit (four T20 screws, then unplug).

4. Wire pulls
Lift up the carpet between the door sill and the left-hand seat, and push a stiff wire through towards the mounting bracket. You will use this to pass wires to and from the amplifier. Note that there is a convenient cut in the sound insulation just where the wires come out. Use this to route wires to the door sill.
Push a stiff wire through the back of the head unit cavity to the left. (Writing from experience of an LHD car, it was hard to get these wires through. If you have an RHD car and can easily pass wires through to the left from the head unit cavity, pass the wire pull to the right instead, and note that you may have to push wires to the right-hand speakers from the head unit cavity, instead of running the wires from the speakers as I have done.)

5. Head unit wiring
Remove any accessory connectors from the quadlock connector. Plug the modified retrofit adapter into the quadlock connector, and install the accessory connectors in to the adapter. Plug in the two ISO harnesses you made. Using the wire pull, pull the CAN-bus wire, the eight woofer wires and the eight audio input wires to the left, and route them safely out of the way of everything to the wire trunk on the left-hand side, along the left-hand door sill, and then use the second wire pull to get them out where the amplifier will go. Crimp 1.5mm terminals on each wire and install them in the plugs.

6. Rear tweeter wiring
Run two 1.0mm2 wires from the left rear tweeter. Run the wire under the seat belt mount, along the door sill and use the wire pull to take it under the seat. Attach a 1J0972712 connector at the tweeter end, then crimp 1.5mm terminals on the amplifier end and install them in the plugs.
Do the same for the right rear tweeter, but running the wire along the right door sill (again, under the seat belt mount), across the dashboard via the head unit cavity, and down the left door sill.

7. Door speaker wiring
The door connector is hidden behind a foam rubber gasket. Remove this gasket to identify the required wire length, then run four 1.0mm2 wires from the left door along the door sill to the amplifier. Crimp male 2.8mm terminals on the door end of each wire, and 1.5mm terminals on the amplifier end. Do the same for the right door, running the wire across the dashboard then along the door sill.

8. Ground terminal wiring
Crimp a 2.8mm female terminal to the 2.5mm2 ground wire, and 1.5mm female terminals to the 1.5mm2 ground wires, and install in the amplifier plugs. Use the wire pull to pull the ground wire from the amplifier side towards the door sill. Run the wire along the door sill, add the eye connector to it, undo the grounding nut by the bonnet release, and fasten the ground terminal.

9. Positive terminal wiring - preparation
Undo the bolt that holds the battery down, taking care not to undo it completely or lose anything in the engine bay, then remove the battery. Remove the rear part of the battery cover and the fuse box cover. Undo the T40 bolt in the middle of the fuse box, then lift it up and to the front of the car. Under the fuse box you will see the rear electronics box. Release the two tabs, and slide the electronics box out to the left (as you look at it standing at the front of the car). Release the purple contact lock by releasing the two small tabs in the centre with a flathead screwdriver, and pushing the large purple lug to the left. Examining the rear of the electronics box, identify terminal 17. Use a pin removal tool from the front to push out the rubber grommet in this terminal, and keep the grommet.

10. Positive terminal wiring
Crimp a 2.8mm female terminal to the 2.5mm2 power wire, and 1.5mm female terminals to the 1.5mm2 power wires, and install in the amplifier plugs. Use the wire pull to pull the positive wire from the amplifier side towards the door sill. Run the wire along the door sill. At the top of the footwell, a bundle of wires disappears into a rubber grommet. Using a stiff pointy object (a Philips screwdriver will do, you heathen), make a hole in the grommet and pass the wire through. In the engine bay, pull the wire through and trim it to length. Make a hole in the grommet you removed in the previous stage and push the wire through it. Crimp the big MCP terminal on to the wire and install it in terminal 17 on the electronics box. Reinstall the electronics box, install the fuse box on top and tighten the T40 screw (you may need to push down on the fuse box, tighten, and repeat a few times to get it completely in). Put a 30A fuse in location 18.

11. Mounting the amplifier
To mount the amplifier, put the plastic retaining lugs into the holes on the centre console side of the footwell, put the amplifier plate in place, and fasten it to the mounting bracket using the M6x10 bolts and into the plastic retaining lugs on the other side with the 4.8x17 screws. Connect the two plugs to the amplifier, then slot it into the bracket. Fasten with the two screws that hopefully came with your mounting bracket (if your mounting bracket didn't come with screws, maybe M6x10 bolts would work?) and install the cover.

12. Rear speakers
I already installed the Dynaudio speakers. If you didn't, please refer to my guide, disregarding anything about crossovers. Plug the woofers into the existing connections, and the tweeters into the new cables that you ran for them. When installing the tweeters, note that a hot melt glue gun may not suffice - you may wish to fasten them additionally with cloth tape.

Howto, part two (of three now)

Turns out my speculation at the kind of connector for the door harness was wrong, and you need the square MCP connectors, not the open JPT connectors. So the conclusion may come tomorrow, if the parts arrive. In the meantime, here's how to do the door wiring.

0. About the installation
The wiring will be added into the door, and the connectors installed in the door wiring harness. The new speakers will be installed into the door and connected. You don't need to take the door apart to do this, since what you need is accessible where the front woofers are.

It is a must for this stage that the car is parked somewhere that allows both doors to be opened fully.

These instructions assume you are picking up where you left off and the battery is disconnected.

This procedure covers both doors. Obviously, do it for both doors.

1. Remove door trim
Driver's side: prise the armrest up. Passenger's side: pull the lower part of the hand grip towards you. Both: unscrew the two T25 screws now visible; pull off the small cover in the door handle and undo the T15 screw; undo the three T20 screws along the bottom; lift the door trim up, back and out; disconnect the door release cable; disconnect the wiring harness from the door control module; driver's side only: disconnect the additional connector.

2. Disconnect door harness
Open the door fully. Push the tab on the top of the rubber gasket upwards (on the car end, not the door end). Keep wiggling it and pulling and prising the rubber gasket until it eventually bows to your will and releases. Open the orange release then disconnect the door.

3. Add wiring to socket
Squeeze the two tabs on the side of the socket on the body, and pull it through into the interior of the car. Open the connector for adding terminals by unclipping the purple sliding part that goes across the terminals from the other purple part in the socket. Add the four connections you lined up in part one and close the locking mechanism. Don't put the socket back in place yet, in case you need to shut the car before you're done.

4. Remove front woofer
Unplug the woofer, drill out the six rivets and remove the woofer. Fish out the bits of old rivet that have inevitably ended up in the door cavity.

5. Change woofer plug
Prise open the release on the speaker plug and remove pins 1 and 3. (The plain green wire is always pin 4.) Insert pin 3 into pin 2 of a 1J0972702, and pin 1 into pin 1 of the same plug.

6. Add wire to door harness connector
Look inside the door cavity at where the wiring harness goes to the body. Cut and remove the zip tie at the top. Fold the wire down, then punch a hole above it big enough for four 1mm2 wires in the rubber gasket using your favourite pointy thing. Be careful not to puncture the outer part, just this layer. Push four 1mm2 wires through the hole you created, until they come out by the door harness connector. Crimp 2.8mm MCP terminals on to these and insert them in the connector.

7. Install midrange speaker
The holes for the screws for the midrange speaker are present but not threaded. Take one M5x12 screw and screw it, pressing hard, into each of the three screw holes until you create the required thread. The screw goes through both speaker gasket and speaker. The lower numbered part of each belongs on the left; the higher number on the right.

8. Tweeter and midrange wiring
Get a new zip tie and fasten your new wires together with the existing wiring harness at the top of the place where it goes to the outside world. Follow the existing wiring around and tape your wires to it. Pop out the grommet between woofer and midrange that gives access to the window bolts. (Yes, I'm using it for the additional wiring. It's the only naughty part of this installation, I promise.) Using your favourite pointy thing again, make a hole big enough for four 1mm2 wires to go through, pass the wires through it, and replace the grommet. Trim the wires to a suitable length to allow them to reach the tweeter and midrange, then add 1J0972712 connectors to each. Pin 1 is the positive terminal on both.

9. Partial reassembly
Rivet the new woofer in place and connect it. Since you want to be able to get access to things if they don't work properly, reconnect the door harness to the body but don't reinstall the gasket; hang the door trim on the door, reconnect the door trim wiring and any additional wiring connectors and hook the door release in place.

That's all for now - coding, testing and final reassembly will have to wait for my missing parts to arrive.

Howto, third and final part

At last, my work is done!

0. About these instructions
The installation will be configured and tested. Then the car will be reassembled.

1. Head unit
Plug the antenna, GPS and quadlock connectors into the head unit and slot it into place. Then wiggle it about a bunch because you added a load of big bulky connectors to the back of it, until it finally slots home. Don't screw it in yet.

2. Battery
Reconnect the battery, positive terminal first, while crossing your fingers that nothing blows up.

3. Coding
Turn the ignition on and, if the radio comes on, be prepared for some distorted mess, and switch it off. Plug in your favourite diagnostic tool, bearing in mind that newer head units use long coding and will need VCDS or OBDeleven rather than a basic scan tool. Go into the CAN gateway (module 19) and enable the sound system. Apply the coding to the head unit as described here.

4. Testing
Turn the radio on and listen to each speaker, making sure it sounds the way it should. If it doesn't, you have a world of wire continuity testing to do. You can also go into the live data for module 47 (sound system) and check the status of each speaker, or just rely on it bringing up fault codes if anything doesn't work.

5. Reassembly
Once you're happy with everything...
Clip the door harness gaskets back in place.
Reinstall the door trim, following the reverse of the removal procedure.
Reinstall the foam rubber behind the connectors that go to the doors.
Reinstall the panel above the pedals.
Reinstall the glove box following the reverse of the removal procedure linked above.
Reinstall the bonnet release and equivalent panel on the other side.
Reinstall the rear trim panels and rear seat.
Screw the head unit in place and re-fit the trim panel.
Apply your hard-earned Dynaudio decals to the front speakers

Initial verdict

Overall, you could probably do this project in a day if you have all the parts you need in advance, understand my instructions and have a double garage so you don't have to dismantle the doors under a car cover when it's -5 and snowing.

I haven't been for a drive yet, but my first impression is that the bass is much crisper and stronger than with the Dynaudio speakers driven by either the RNS510 or the RNS300 I had before that (although the RNS300 had more bass than the RNS510 if you turned the bass up). The tweeters seem to be working harder with the new setup as well, and the midrange speakers seem to just fill in the gap and don't work that hard.

The ultimate test of whether it was worth the effort will come in summer. I've noticed that entire piano sections would go missing with the roof down with my previous setup. If the full Dynaudio setup can cure that, I'll be truly impressed.

Is it worth it? For sure, it's a massive step up from the standard sound system, and it's better than running Dynaudio speakers from the standard head unit. Obviously I can't compare the merits of retrofitting Dynaudio to installing third-party aftermarket speakers and amplifier, and all the additional wiring is a lot of effort. Some may prefer to install an aftermarket amplifier under the driver's seat using the method I've described - the quadlock adapter I used would certainly make that easier. Maybe a four-channel setup can deliver results as good as the ten-channel Dynaudio setup, I don't know.

Very nice write up! Must be clear to all! Thanks!

aku-aku that was a great how to and I do admire your perseverance in finishing this mammoth task, well done.

Mick

Thanks both! I hope this will end up helping someone out and making the task a little less mammoth for them.

I should also mention that wtyczkolandia.pl were a great help in getting the last connectors I needed to me next day - I think I bought pretty much all the wiring and pin connectors from them too, and they're one of the few places that will sell you a Micro Timer pin removal tool.

I took my Eos for a drive yesterday and I've got to do something about the road noise from the rear - the sound of winter tyres on snow is a bit much! I can't apply the alubutyl noise damping I bought until the weather warms up, but I have some nice solid foam carpet underlay that I can stick under the back seat as a temporary measure to see what gains are possible. The Dynaudio retrofit was still a worthwhile improvement, as the higher quality sound leads to less ear fatigue - but I know what my next task is now...

Hi...I have tracked down the amplifier, amplifier mount/bracket, armrest, rear vent tubes, Media Bay Armrest insert, multifunction steering wheel. I still need the nuts and bolts to connect the armrest. It would be really nice to have the steering wheel airbag harness for the MFSW too, along with the control module.
Regarding the DynAudio specifically, I have no idea how to build this cable still. Navisource hasn't really gotten back with me with details about the cable.
I've found out the pinouts of the 24 and 23 pin connector of the amp. But even with it, I'm not sure where to get the connectors, wire, how to hook it all up, and how long to make each of the wires.

This one's for aku-aku: I have my door card off at the moment and had a good feel around the back of the stock (rivetted) base driver. The magnet seems rather small and puny to me with no integral mid range cone? Since it's original OE in MY07 it's unlikely to be high strength Neodymium. Any comments on what size magnets are on the door speakers in DynAudio?

A little addendum to my howto: when I upgraded my central electronics module, I found that there was some interference in the form of buzzing. Eventually, I tracked this down to the input wires to the amplifier, which in my installation run close to a grounding point. It's worth choosing well-insulated wires or wrapping the bundle in aluminium tape to avoid this interference - and fastening the wires so that they pass well below the grounding point. There is a plastic mount around the grounding point that will help you with this.

Hello, we have the Dynaudio 10 speaker system in our 2012 EOS Executive (factory installed) and attempting to swap the RNS510 for an RCD330 which has AndroidAuto/ CarPlay.

The RCD330 has been able to be coded and work correctly with, I’m assuming, the 8 speaker Dynaudio setups found in other VWs but we are having issues with getting sound in our 10 speaker setup. All other features work, including the flip camera we installed.

I found this thread and saw that the pinout map was linked for the amp connectors but those links are no longer working.

Does anyone have a working link or pic of the pinout map?

We’re trying to decipher what wires are for what purpose as I believe the RCD330 is just not turning on the amp, hence no sound. We don’t even get the touch tone “beep” when making selections on the screen.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

You will need a VAG diagnostic tool like VCDS or OBDeleven to code the RCD330 appropriately. Here's a link to another forum that tells you what you may need to do.

The amplifier is woken up by the head unit over the CAN bus, there isn't a trigger wire as such. If the head unit won't tell it to wake up, you're stuck.

An archive.org copy of the page with the pinout is here. I think it would be worth checking all the connections at the RCD330 end as well, though - you don't yet know whether those are all correct. You can compare the pinout on the RCD330 to the one on your old RNS510 to ensure that nothing has changed position.

Ultimately I’m looking for what wire, in the plugs of the EOS Dynaudio amp, receive signal from the headunit to power up.

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aku will confirm but this was a headache for me with just a radio install. Most modern infotainment kit is now turned on and off using CANbus signals, because our cars no longer have conventional ignition power switches. That means when you buy a radio you can put power on it but not much may happen. The V.W ignition switches have radio only position which you would use when parked. These switch positions are identified by CAN signals. For older radios in modern cars there are some aftermarket 'dongles' that control a relay to give 12V power when a CAN radio on or off signal is received.