Originally Posted by voxmagna
OK maybe they know something about that batch of fuel injectors they haven't told you? Modern fuel injectors are usually very reliable but there are 2 ways they can fail: First is blockage or seizure caused by bad fuel or water in the gas. Most fuel injectors have a fine gauze filter inside but that's a last resort if the fuel filter isn't doing its job. The second way they can fail is open circuit solenoid coil which is easy to check. That can fail if the area around the injectors is always very hot.
I use vcds and that gives real english descriptions of what 'might' be wrong. This often comes from the many contributors on the Ross-Tech site. It's hard just using a fault code to advise somebody to spend a lot of money replacing a part when the fault could be somewhere else. Interpreting diagnostics information needs experience and skill because what they may appear to say is wrong could be other things like dependent parts, wiring or connectors?
If I see a diagnostics fault code and unlike a Dealership that may charge up for parts that weren't faulty, I need a second means of confirmation. But I have the knowledge and skills to poke around with a multimeter, 'scope and sewing pins to apply first line fault finding before replacing a part. That could take me a couple of hours and most would not pay for that labor time.
In my experience, if you start suggesting things to workshops they will tell you what you want to hear. Tricky faults whilst more expensive, are best dealt with at the dealer, particularly if there could be a warranty claim or history of unreliability from buying new? Unlike the independent workshop, they have the right diagnostics equipment and a huge database history from other vehicles to look up. Even if a V.W Dealer regards your car as out of warranty, they may offer 'Goodwill' options as your car is so new? IMHO Manufacturers may try to hide component reliability problems for repairs during the warranty period, but they will have history which the independent hasn't got.
I was told 4 years ago VW extended the warranty on a batch of injectors to 10 years or 100K miles. Is there any way for me to determine if the kombi valve is working correctly? Since the dealer 2 years ago recommended this and the sensor be replaced, I'm thinking that is the place to start. Any tutorial available on how to replace the kombi valve?