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Old 03-19-2019, 06:21 AM   #26
Shep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercmancdi View Post
Can I butt in please , quick question , I have no power yet to test , my main big button works all windows but my drivers door window switch for drivers door window does nothing is this likely to be this single switch.
Can you change the single switch or do you have to change the whole panel with all the
Switch’s for all windows , mirrors etc.
Thanks.
Hi. I don't know if you have noticed, but when it's raining and you go to open the door, water drips straight onto the switches. Had same problem and found switch was corroded. Cheap replacement from eBay sorted it, and yes separate switches for front and back in the drivers switch pack and cost under a tenner.
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:42 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=Mercmancdi I have no power yet to test , my main big button works all windows but my drivers door window switch for drivers door window does nothing is this likely to be this single switch]

I would think yes as you clearly have full function from the main (all windows) switch. But check with a multimeter first!


[Can you change the single switch]

I think you have to change the block of 5 switches!

I am just a newbie so still finding my way around these cars. 🤔
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:18 AM   #28
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[Can you change the single switch]

I think you have to change the block of 5 switches!
As Shep writes above, there are three blocks of switches in the driver's armrest: the all-windows switch; the front pair; and the rear pair. The all-windows switch is different for pre- and post-facelift models but the others are the same.
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:50 AM   #29
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I often take this type of switch apart, clean out the old overloaded grease and contacts then put it back together. Switches are designed to take current which cleans their contacts as they are wiped. Unfortunately, the automotive world fails to understand that switches handling these kind of very low current logic signals operated infrequently need to be made with precious metal contacts and very little or no lubrication on the switch rocker. Water getting inside will be a killer, but they may still be o.k after teardown and cleaning.

If you can find a way in, opening and cleaning a switch is a lot easier and cheaper than sourcing new replacements and you learn something along the way. I look forward to seeing a post of a switch teardown and repair because once you have done one, you can do all of them!
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Old 03-23-2019, 05:36 PM   #30
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There is a cheaper option than VCDS it's called OBDeleven for Android, It has had great reviews on other VW forums so it might just be the one for you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...n&_sacat=34998

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2010 Deep Black Pearl SE 2.0 tdi dsg xenons Full electric black leather seats Folding mirrors with chrome covers 18x8j alloys front fogs, Door projector lenses LED footwell lights OEM RNS 510 + bluetooth and Media interface, OEM front and rear mud flaps Sport pedals and dead pedal LED mirror puddle lights and front side lights 35mm lowered springs LED rear number plate lamps.

2018 Tiguan 2.0 TSI DSG SEL Deep Black Pearl.

First EOS 2008 Silver 2.0 FSI DSG sport.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:32 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post

If you can find a way in, opening and cleaning a switch is a lot easier and cheaper than sourcing new replacements and you learn something along the way. I look forward to seeing a post of a switch teardown and repair because once you have done one, you can do all of them!
If it's like mine, then just replace it, no point even trying to sort it out when it's in this kind of state.
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:39 PM   #32
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Nasty and no defense against water ingress! Poor design choice for the switch type, they should have used a membrane type pad or a sealed switch.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:51 AM   #33
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Nasty and no defense against water ingress! Poor design choice for the switch type, they should have used a membrane type pad or a sealed switch.
The post-facelift switches do use a membrane pad - or, at least, the all-windows switch which I had to modify to fit my pre-facelift Eos does.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:52 AM   #34
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Because the EOS isn't so popular, we lose out on aftermarket initiatives. If this was a Golf or Passat, there would probably be a membrane button pad alternative made as a replacement?

You said you did some mods? Is there a V.W membrane pad option that has the same switches which could be used? Looking Sheps photos of the innards, the switches are the kind you might find in domestic products, not a car and I see very little chance for weatherproofing them. As we say, when you open doors in the rain water runs on top of them. There are firms that prototype them, but this would only work for a group buy or an entrepreneur on Fleabay.

http://www.customark-tg.co.uk/Membra...e_Keypads.html

I can now see what the bad design problem is: The door card plastic molding into which the switches fit is recessed with a smooth 'cup' shape towards the switch body. Any water dropping down from a bad glass seal or opening the door will fill up those cups, stay there, then run into the switches. It might be possible to fit a smart smoke gray flip up hinged acrylic cover over the lot, or create a small drain hole or slot in each that wouldn't look like a bodge?
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Last edited by voxmagna; 03-24-2019 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:06 AM   #35
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You said you did some mods? Is there a V.W membrane pad option that has the same switches which could be used?
Yes, if you get the chrome-tipped switches which were introduced with the facelift Eos, those should have membrane switches. I know that's the case with the all-windows switch since I took that one apart; the others should be the same. Your mileage may vary if you get the Chinese ones that are widely available on eBay, though.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:11 AM   #36
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Thanks. Just to be sure, are you saying the membrane door switches can directly replace those we have in our non-facelift EOSs, or is some extra cosmetic work needed to make them fit? I'm not fussy about a chrome finish if they are sealed and reliable.

Do you have a photo of what a membrane switch pair looks like sat alongside the others? Do you have to patch/splice the wiring or do they use the same connectors? Chinese can be o.k. and most of these things start as Chinese parts anyway. I bought and fitted a Chinese cruise stalk and was very pleased with the quality.

Keep up the good work - Vox

There may be more to this? The window switches are 'dual action'. One switch is normal momentary operation whilst the second position is the One Touch operation - press that momentarily and the glass moves fully up or down without holding the switch. The other switches seem to be single action. So I'm curious to know if the membrane switch for windows is two switches in the same housing?
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Last edited by voxmagna; 03-25-2019 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:16 AM   #37
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Thanks. Just to be sure, are you saying the membrane door switches can directly replace those we have in our non-facelift EOSs, or is some extra cosmetic work needed to make them fit? I'm not fussy about a chrome finish if they are sealed and reliable.
The switches for the pairs of front and rear windows are drop-in replacements. The "all windows" switch needs taking apart and the circuit board modifying: the post-facelift switch has one touch operation which the pre-facelift Eos doesn't have, and to add to that, the post-facelift switch operates on resistances rather than two simple return wires. I wrote about that here.

The all-windows switch has four separate membrane contact points: momentary and one-touch operation for up and down. The switch then has plastic lugs at different heights that actuate first the momentary contact, then the one-touch contact.
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:02 AM   #38
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Thanks. I spotted the resistances when I compared the wiring diagrams. MY07 EOS is pre-facelift and has the 2 step front window switches with one touch operation?

I saw a double window switch for 2012 facelift, but it only had a 4 pin connector when I expected more, or at least 6 contacts reduced to 5 for a shared common?

The Chinese window switches are pretty cheap and I think I will buy one to play with and compare with what I have.

So now I've re read your link:
Quote:
This mod will not give you the ability to wind all the windows all the way up or down without your finger on the switch
The 4 pin connector now makes sense because the switches are only one way and you lose the one touch operation. I find that feature particularly useful, especially on the driver side.

aku-aku I assume the photo is the newer facelift switch? What I understand about a membrane switch is it is totally sealed in flat floppy form, with legends printed on the outer plastic layer? This switch still looks open?

There's a challenge then for somebody to come up with a proper membrane switch design (with illumination!) that's glued to a flat surface sitting across the existing switch group and a ribbon cable making the connections?
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Last edited by voxmagna; 03-26-2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:16 AM   #39
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The 4 pin connector now makes sense because the switches are only one way and you lose the one touch operation. I find that feature particularly useful, especially on the driver side.
The soldering is only required for the all-windows switch. I replaced all my window switches with post-facelift switches; the one-touch functionality on the individual front windows still works exactly as it should, and the all-windows switch is the only one that needs to be modified.

Since the all-windows switch returns all signals down one pin with four different resistances, I assume the double switch units send the signals for the left window down e.g. pin 3 and the right window down pin 4.

Quote:
aku-aku I assume the photo is the newer facelift switch? What I understand about a membrane switch is it is totally sealed in flat floppy form, with legends printed on the outer plastic layer? This switch still looks open?
That's the facelift switch, modified, with the rubber membrane that sits on top of the PCB removed. Apologies if I've used the wrong word for this kind of switch, but it does have a membrane on it...
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Old 03-27-2019, 12:03 PM   #40
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Thanks for fully explaining. I think I'll pass on the mod. because I had hoped the membrane switch would be a sealed encapsulation? If the rubbery button sits over the board tracks, any water around it would tend to get sucked into the pcb tracks as the buttons are operated, making it worse than the present design.

I guess the solution is to stop water getting on the door switches in the first place? I'll think about that. When they put rocker switches into boats for the marine environment, they put a clear rubbery cover over them.
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