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Old 01-19-2018, 08:21 AM   #101
Batjes
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My roof 2009 always immediately starts to move in little jumps under gravity. So, yes, it is sort of leaking fluid past the valves. Maybe by design, I don’t know. I definitely cannot krytox my seals that way.
My previos EOS, a 2007 did not do that, but it stayed put.
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:15 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batjes View Post
My roof 2009 always immediately starts to move in little jumps under gravity. So, yes, it is sort of leaking fluid past the valves. Maybe by design, I donít know. I definitely cannot krytox my seals that way.
My previos EOS, a 2007 did not do that, but it stayed put.
Hi Batjes,

My wife's car is a 2007 , so sounds like it should stay put until the pressure drops . Looks like it might be dry on Saturday so will give it a go .

When you say your car leaks at the valve I take it you mean the same point as in my previous posts where the roof gutter nipple goes into the plastic a pillar mount. Mind only seems to leaks on one side , drivers, and looking at them with the roof closed they both seem to be positioned the same which seems odd that both don't leak

Regards

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Old 01-19-2018, 10:43 AM   #103
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Let's not get confused: Batjes and I are talking about hydraulic fluid leakage past valves inside the closed pump system, not water leakage. This might explain why your roof cannot be stopped and hold any position in under 3 minutes like mine?. You gave the impression that your roof started moving under gravity as soon as you released the switch? Have you checked the pump fluid level?

Your roof op. sounds odd, are you sure the top roof segment is actually engaging solidly via the peg and drain seal when the roof is closed and is actually locked? I'm wondering from what you say if the hydraulics are not making that final firm closure to the 'A' pillar and that is why you are getting the water leak, because the O ring seal is moving back from its seat? When my roof is closed, the top segment feels absolutely solid like the rest of the car and I can't move it or any other roof segment back with my hand?

I haven't been that far inside and up to the end of the top segment, but something has to keep positive pressure holding it firm against the 'A' pillars. Hydraulic pressure will bring the parts together but they won't rely on that to hold them solid. Their favorite locking seems to be rotating 'C' claws closed by a ram and pulling against a roller.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:56 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by aku-aku View Post
After looking at my A-pillar leaks (just a few drips from the corners, usually at high speed, as some others have reported - or when backing up after it's been rained on), I did some investigation, did the post-it note test, and had a bit of a think. Bear with me on this...

I've noticed - not just on my Eos but on many photos of them - that the curve of the roof often doesn't quite line up with the windscreen. Given that this happens a lot, and they presumably started off nicely aligned, I wonder if maybe they somehow sink over time.

When the sides of the roof are lower than they should be, this gives the problem (again, which lots of people seem to have experienced) that the windows rub against the seal when opening. But I reckon it does something else too. The sunroof glass is slightly angled; the sunroof movement is constrained by the windscreen; so if the sides of the roof are too low, the seals along the sides won't make contact with the sunroof. Hey presto, water flowing down the drain tubes, and the next thing you know you get a leak.

Correct me if I got anything wrong up to this point, but I think I found the cause of the problem. And now on to the solution.

Obviously the roof needs adjusting. Unfortunately, I live in a country where VW didn't sell the Eos, so these cars are even rarer than they are in places like the UK, and finding a garage that knows about them will be impossible. I figure, too, that at some point we will all have to learn about some slightly trickier roof maintenance stuff if we want to keep our cars on the road, as the knowledge is lost from the dealers and the specialists become rarer.

There is one piece of adjustment that seems obvious to me. Look at the ends of the roof, and you'll see that above the drain tube, locking mechanism and guide pin, there are some metal shims. Adding extra shims here would raise the height of the roof relative to the locking mechanism. The roof will pivot around the point that the hinges support it too, so the back of the roof will drop down. (Does anyone else have a visible gap under their rear windscreen?)

I'm aware that adjusting the roof is tricky and should be left to the professionals, and that roof alignment issues usually mean accident damage, but this seems like quite a common issue that wouldn't be caused by accident damage. In the absence of professionals, and given that I think I might be on to something, I'm wondering if somehow we can come up with a method that a non-professional could use. I figure that any adjustment of this kind would be easily reversible, too - just remove what you added.

So, my questions: has anyone tried adjusting the roof in this way, has anyone found some detailed documentation on the roof mechanism, and does anyone have a clue where to get the shims from, short of taking the whole thing apart? Also, can anyone see any holes in my logic here?
Hi aku-aku,

Just re-reading this due to the same problem. Did you ever get round to adjusting the roof . You mention Shims in your post but not sure where these are . Do you have a pic ?


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Old 01-19-2018, 11:00 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
Let's not get confused: Batjes and I are talking about hydraulic fluid leakage past valves inside the closed pump system, not water leakage. This might explain why your roof cannot be stopped and hold any position in under 3 minutes like mine?. You gave the impression that your roof started moving under gravity as soon as you released the switch? Have you checked the pump fluid level?

Your roof op. sounds odd, are you sure the top roof segment is actually engaging solidly via the peg and drain seal when the roof is closed and is actually locked? I'm wondering from what you say if the hydraulics are not making that final firm closure to the 'A' pillar and that is why you are getting the water leak, because the O ring seal is moving back from its seat? When my roof is closed, the top segment feels absolutely solid like the rest of the car and I can't move it or any other roof segment back with my hand?

I haven't been that far inside and up to the end of the top segment, but something has to keep positive pressure holding it firm against the 'A' pillars. Hydraulic pressure will bring the parts together but they won't rely on that to hold them solid. Their favorite locking seems to be rotating 'C' claws closed by a ram and pulling against a roller.
Hi

Ok makes sense. Will double check the roof op. If it dries up . Will also use vcds to see if I can confirm drivers side is locked . Feels firm / no movement when closed . It's almost as if it needs to be a couple extra mm closure together



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Old 01-19-2018, 12:46 PM   #106
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I always think the gap on the inside looks bigger than it should be, but the outside to the paint should look cosmetically correct and the same both sides. Never tried it but if you have doubts, put a small ball of Blu Tack on the inside mating surface and see how much it squashes each side.

If you have any engineers blue you can wipe some around the rubber O ring and after a roof closure, check and see if the blue transfers to the socket. The other thing to try is open the sunroof, remove the capping over the drain joining tube, push some small bore tube inside the drain from the sunroof channel (tight fit), hold your finger over the drain tube connector in the 'A' pillar, blow and see if the connector between the 'A' pillar and top roof segment leaks air. If it doesn't you know you are looking for a leak around the joining halves and not the drain.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:03 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
I always think the gap on the inside looks bigger than it should be, but the outside to the paint should look cosmetically correct and the same both sides. Never tried it but if you have doubts, put a small ball of Blu Tack on the inside mating surface and see how much it squashes each side.

If you have any engineers blue you can wipe some around the rubber O ring and after a roof closure, check and see if the blue transfers to the socket. The other thing to try is open the sunroof, remove the capping over the drain joining tube, push some small bore tube inside the drain from the sunroof channel (tight fit), hold your finger over the drain tube connector in the 'A' pillar, blow and see if the connector between the 'A' pillar and top roof segment leaks air. If it doesn't you know you are looking for a leak around the joining halves and not the drain.
Hi Vox

As usual top idea . Car is still wet and it won't fit in the garage and it looks like more rain is on the way oh joy....

When / if it dries up the engineer blue sounds like a good place to start ....

Regards

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Old 01-19-2018, 06:06 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobSlaterFSI View Post
Just re-reading this due to the same problem. Did you ever get round to adjusting the roof . You mention Shims in your post but not sure where these are . Do you have a pic ?
Page 4 of this thread, second post, second picture - you can see two silver plates just above all the black components.

I havenít got around to trying that since it seems a pretty complicated operation. The only time I get water ingress is if I use a high-pressure car wash - the greater issue for me is that the window brushes against the seals as the door opens, even when the window has moved down to clear the door seal.

I did take a quick look at how to get into the roof struts under the headliner, but it didnít look straightforward. Next time Iím with the car Iíll see if I can take a proper look at it.
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:28 PM   #109
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the greater issue for me is that the window brushes against the seals as the door opens, even when the window has moved down to clear the door seal.
You should be getting at least 10-15mm of window drop which should be sufficient to clear the top seal. If you are getting less than this and can move the glass up and down with the flat of your hand from the dropped position, then your regulator wires have gone soft and lost tension.

This tension is important for 2 reasons: 1. the regulator wire must be tensioned tight to stop backlash when the motor drops the glass and 2. It must be tight to ensure the top edge of the glass is held tight against the roof seal when closed. If the glass can creep away from the seal e.g during driving, you will get water running down inside.
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Old 01-20-2018, 06:08 AM   #110
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Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
You should be getting at least 10-15mm of window drop which should be sufficient to clear the top seal. If you are getting less than this and can move the glass up and down with the flat of your hand from the dropped position, then your regulator wires have gone soft and lost tension.
The glass doesnít move - the roofís just not quite aligned right, and I havenít yet had a good day to try the adjustments that should be possible.
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Old 01-20-2018, 09:28 AM   #111
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That's a relief! The center of the peg should align with the center of the hole as the top segment closes to the 'A' pillar.
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Old 01-27-2018, 11:11 AM   #112
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Default using VCDS to check roof sensors

Hi,

Not as much progress as I would have liked, as it been wet every day Iíve had a chance to work on the car. The good news is Iíve not had any more leaks from the roof, but the driverís side still has the sealant applied, see prev post.

Vox suggested to check the status of the sensors for the roof to make sure they are locked in position. There is a very good video on the VCDS site which talks about where to look and what the values mean.

Fired up VCDS and attached pics show the process I followed. In summary both drivers and passenger side roof side arms are locked and in position

See pic 4
Bit 1 + 2 = shows roof arm is in closed position as indicated by a value of 1
Bit 10 + 11 shows the locks at the top of the windscreen are closed and locked as indicated by a 1

So the car thinks the roof is closed and locked and there are no other faults with the roof.

Just need a dry day to open the roof and see what happens and the condition of the nipple that is weeping

Regards
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic_1.jpg (13.5 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg pic_2.jpg (15.8 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg pic_3.jpg (13.8 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg pic_4.jpg (10.4 KB, 25 views)
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:37 PM   #113
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Default Back to basics ...

Afternoon,

After a few weeks of no progress due to wet weather Iíve managed to undertake the following

1. Re-read this post as it contains loads of useful information, some of which I had forgot so decided to go back to basics

2. Checked all panel alignment to see if I could find any evidence of misalignment and or accident. It seems to car has had a slight knock at some point in its life on the driversí side rear, same side as the leak from the nipple on the roof gutter (see prev. posts). However, nothing seems out of alignment

3. As per Voxís note I removed the sealant I had used as a bodge fix and opened the roof (engine off) about 30 cm and left the keys in and the roof stayed open.

4. Cleaned up the nipple with a cloth and meths, left it to dry

5. Inspected the nipple, no difference to the passenger side (no leak)

6. Used a heat gun on low on the nipple and applied Kytox (read loads)

7. Applied a smear / small amount to top part of a pillar where to nipple fits in (used small finger to push some into the hole)

8. Went to open the roof fully and got an overheat message on the dash, removed keys and left it 10 mins, put key back in a fully opened the roof, no error message

9. Left the roof open as long as I could to help let the kytox soak in

10. Whilst the roof was open I used a couple of tools to clean out the A pillar tubes again, see pic 1 Ė flexible curtain rode can be used to poke down the tube and out the far end and can been seen if you lift the scuttle panel. Used the other tool to push amount 2 lts of soapy water down the tube (old gearbox re-fill tool) which flowed out OK.

11. Closed the roof. Placed loads of towels inside the car to catch and trips as its meant to rain tonight

12. I didnít do a water test (i.e. bucket of water over the roof seals) as wanted to leave the Kytox to soak in as much as possible

13. Hopefully no leaks tomorrow, if there is I will apply some Engineers blue as per Voxís suggestion and see what that shows

Pic_1_S = clean out tools
Pic_2_s = Nipple pre clean up and
Pic_3_S = Everything inside the red box had a light coating of kytox
Regards
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic_3_s.jpg (8.6 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg Pic_2_S.jpg (68.9 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg pic_1_s.jpg (192.1 KB, 62 views)
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:35 AM   #114
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Default Leak free .... I hope

Morning,

Quick update. Only very light rain overnight and no sign of water dripping in. Undertook a two-stage water test using a jug and then a hose.

Using a 2 ltr, jug slowly tipped the water over the drivers side seals and then checked for leaks, none found. Increased the amount of water each time and checked for leaks.

Again, none found. Feeling a bit brave I used the hose, as per pic, again starting with a small amount of water and then increasing the flow, checking for leaks each time

In the end left the hose on, as per pic, for around two mins and no sign of any leaks. So far so good. Iíve left all the towels in the car to cover where it was leaking before, and I will keep an eye on it over the next week or so before I but the trim back.

I think the leak was due to a combination of factors. In summary I installed the Vox A pillar fix for both sides, removed the side bar trim and ran some sealant along where the rubber gutter tucks into the metal side beam, went to town on cleaning the A pillar tubes out (air, soapy water, old flexible curtain pole etc.). Cleaned up the nipple with meths, soaked it and the part where the nipple sits with Kytox.

In the end I think the leak from the gutter was due to a blockage in the A pillar tube(s) and a lack of a proper clean and application of Kytox on the nipple housing.

I think this is in part also location based, as in, we have a load of trees and bushed near where the car is parked, which dumps all sorts of muck / grime etc. into the seals and into the water run off at the base of the windscreen which blocks the tubes.

I need to improve my autumn / prep process for the roof and find a way to clean out the tubes in winter with the roof closed.

Hope this helps someone with the same problem.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:52 PM   #115
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I need to improve my autumn / prep process for the roof and find a way to clean out the tubes in winter with the roof closed.
If you can be confident all the connections down to the outlet are tight and will take some pressure, buy a Hose-lock adapter for your hose and adapt it down to a smaller bore hose that will fit the drain holes. When you are hosing your EOS, connect the reducing adapter and push water through each drain. Little and often is probably better than just once a year?

If you haven't done my hose mod. as I described and the hose connections at the top behind the trim are not clamped or a very tight push over fit, it's likely the V.W connector will either split more or disconnect itself with not much water pressure.

Once a year it's probably a good idea to try and get some liquid 'biocide' down the tubes. One of the household bio clean or dilute bleach products might work.. I occasionally spray the 'Oxy' products (Peroxide based I think?) into my cabin air inlets to keep the heater matrix smelling sweet.
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Old 04-15-2018, 08:43 AM   #116
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Default Nipple trim

Hi Vox,

As usual good ideas. below is what I came up with.

Now its got a bit warmer I’ve decided to do a bit of a spring clean of the A pillar drain tubes in order to avoid any more leaks.

I’ve installed Vox’s A Pillar fix (see prior posts) to both sides and one of the other benefits of this fix is you can quickly dismantle the tube and run some water and cleaner down the tube, which I did for both sides

After that I used a borescope to look down the tube. The main tube was clear, but the nipple that passes through the fire wall was still full of muck. A few more washes didn’t show much improvement.

Before you start the below process make sure the glass is clean as you will need to move the wiper blades up and down the screen a few times and you don’t want to scratch it

The below took about an hour and requires a normal tool kit, sockets, torque wrench and a wiper arm puller. The method assumes the wipers are aligned and working fine before you start

Scuttle Panel removal
In order to access the nipple and try and give it a better clean I decided to remove the scuttle panel and wiper arms to get better access. Process is as follows
1. As your working near glass it’s a good idea to remove any rings / watches etc. to minimise any chances of a scratch

2. With the wipers in the normal position, remove the plastic caps that hide the nuts

3. With the bonnet / hood closed, set the wipers to the service position
a. Ignition on, then off, push down on wiper stalk. the arms move to a vertical position
b. Note the wipers will not work if the bonnet is open

4. Mark the position of the arm / wiper blade with tape and a pen, i.e. lift the blade and put the masking tape onto the screen under the blade and draw round the out line

5. Put some rags around the glass and plastic scuttle panel to prevent any damage if you slip / drop a nut in the next step. Remove the two 13mm nuts,

6. Do not try to remove the arms without a puller, £8 from machine mart, as you will end up braking something / damaging panel or glass

7. If the blades have not been removed in a while, they will more than likely be stuck on the spline. I used a wiper arm puller to pop the arms off. Slow and steady is the best method, small turns of the puller and take your time (see pic of the tool, pic 1). The first time I did this I was surprised by have much force it took the puller to pull the arms off , so make sure the tool is aligned and check it every few turns . Re-position if needed

8. Once off I used a small piece of tape to note the drivers side arm (longer than passengers) to make sure I grabbed the right one when refitting

9. The scuttle panel will now lift off. Note the location and fit of the panel to the screen to aid with refit

10. The passenger side also has an extra plastic panel to remove, which has a couple of tangs that need gentle tug to remove (see pic 2)

11. Next three pic’s show the location and of the nipples and a close up of each side (note it’s a UK car 2007) (pic 3 and 4)

12. I used my borescope to look at where the water drains out into the inner front wing and the end of the nipples. The driver’s side is a right pain to get at as its set far back in the fire wall but managed to inspect both sides

13. It seems to me that the nipple is cut along 4 sends / sides, so as to form a” V” shape at end and remain closed which allows water to slowly trickle out. However, over time and given the fact that my car is parked under large trees the nipple gets full of muck and stops the water from flowing.

14. I tried various options to the clean the nipple, pipe cleaners, wire, small cloths etc, but given the location it didn’t make much improvement

15. The option I came up with is to use some long wallpaper scissors (pic 5) to trim 1 – 2 mm from the end so the nipple, i.e. trim the end of the cone / V shape flat, so it remains open all the time and stops muck from blocking the nipple. I trimmed only a very small amount from the end but it was impossible to get a pic

16. As Vox has mentioned in other posts, the amount of water flowing past the seals should be minimal and after doing a hose pipe test my seals seem to be doing a good job, so I’m not concerned that trimming the end of the nipple will cause any problems with water splashing about / going over the wiper motor etc. Repeat on the passenger side

Clean up and refit

1. With the scuttle panel removed it’s a good time to clean the panel and remove any muck / leaves etc. from underneath. I used a hover and an old cloth to give it a clean out as much as possible

2. At the base of the windscreen, where the plastic scuttle panel sits, is a rubber seal. Mine was full of muck and was stopping the panel from seating properly. Give it and the panel a good clean with an old tooth brush and soapy water.

3. I also used some vinyl / rubber care from Autoglym (see pic 6) on the seal and base of the panel as a lube to help the panel fit flush in the seal

4. Replace the plastic passenger side panel and then the scuttle panel.
Make sure the panel sits flush with the base of the screen all the way along its length, otherwise you will have water ingress into car (see pic 7)

5. Refit the wiper arms onto the spine and align them with the tape / marks made earlier. The best method I came up with is as follows

a. Clean spine and give a light covering of copper grease

b. Place arm over spline and align with tape / marks

c. With the arm still over the spline, lift the top part arm up, base remains flush on the spline. There is a spring-loaded joint in the arm to allow for this. Then very loosely tighten the nut by hand
i. Make sure the arm is flush on the spline when tightening the nut

d. Recheck alignment and adjust as needed. This may take a few goes to get right but the arm must fit flush on the spline and be aligned with the tape / marks on the tape.

e. Once happy with the alignment, nip up the nut, again by hand and close the bonnet

f. Return the blades to their normal rest position

g. The manual says to tighten to 20 nm, but I went with 16 nm as the spline has copper grease on it

h. Replace plastic caps

i. Test wipers

j. If Ok remove tape

k. All done, time for tea and medals …..

The factory method is different, involves using VCDS and takes twice as long. I have used this tape and mark method and the factory one a few times and this method works fine
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic_1_tool.jpg (75.7 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg pic_2_d_side.jpg (19.6 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg pic_2_drivers_side_close_up.jpg (104.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg pic_3_p_side.jpg (17.3 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg pic_4_p_side_close_up.jpg (107.4 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg pic_5.jpg (80.5 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg pic_6.jpg (73.7 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg pic_7.jpg (91.7 KB, 57 views)

Last edited by RobSlaterFSI; 04-17-2018 at 07:39 AM. Reason: spelling.....
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:33 PM   #117
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Just completed the modification on the A pillar tubing (Thanks Voxmagna)...went well with everyone's input here, esp. azanoncello. The visor holder on pic 1 of azanoncello writeup comes off easily with a small blade screwdriver. Place flat blade screwdriver in top front center of the plastic housing (there is a slot for it) and gently rotate screwdriver left/right and the cover will pop right off. THanks again all!!!
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:17 PM   #118
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Not sure if I am in right place, seems like I am. I am getting a leak/drip from the top driver's side where the convertible arm connects to the windshield frame. See pic. First, I want to know how to remove the trim without breaking it so i can get in and try to see where the leak is from. Second, does anyone have an idea where it may be from and how to fix it! Thanks! #2008vweos
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #119
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Why don't you try reading the whole thread of about 5 pages first instead of the last page? There are plenty of photos showing the 'A' pillar and its trim covers with good contributions from members?

We can asume for now that you have the same problem with the 'A' pillar drain connections as others, but you should also open the sunroof and check the front and rear drain holes are clear. There should be no water in there anyway and you need to investigate your sunnroof frame and seals for any distortion or poor fit, causing water on the roof to get past the seals.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:50 PM   #120
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Hi
I've used Vox's guide to fix the leak you have . Also check the drain tube is not blocked

All the details you need are in the post

Regards

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Old 02-28-2019, 05:56 AM   #121
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I'm sure this has been covered but I can't find the thread. My roof has a drip where it connects to windshield on passenger side and since I just purchased my baby...(2007 EOS) I don't wanna mess anything up so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance as I'm sure this has been addressed more than once ,but I'm not seeing it .Thanks in advance.
B. In Texas ,who loves her car...ALOT
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:39 AM   #122
silvershadow
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Originally Posted by Brandibad View Post
I'm sure this has been covered but I can't find the thread. My roof has a drip where it connects to windshield on passenger side and since I just purchased my baby...(2007 EOS) I don't wanna mess anything up so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance as I'm sure this has been addressed more than once ,but I'm not seeing it .Thanks in advance.
B. In Texas ,who loves her car...ALOT
Yes - you did find the right thread here.

Just find a spare couple of hours, go to page 1 of this thread and start reading and all will be revealed.

The "A pillar" is the body work holding the front windscreen.

.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:39 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandibad View Post
I'm sure this has been covered but I can't find the thread. My roof has a drip where it connects to windshield on passenger side and since I just purchased my baby...(2007 EOS) I don't wanna mess anything up so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance as I'm sure this has been addressed more than once ,but I'm not seeing it .Thanks in advance.
B. In Texas ,who loves her car...ALOT

Check out the post by voxmagna in this thread, post number #51 on page 6 of this thread. I did this yesterday and it seems to have worked for me (so far).
Tony.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:14 PM   #124
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Hi All, I just want to put it out there, that the highest probability fault is the blocked drain hose. This can be tested and fixed without venturing in to the 'A' pillar linings.
The simple test is to assume the drain hose is blocked (there is enough pictures in this thread to find the plastic drain aperture, at the top of the windscreen frame). Then, fill it gently with water, you will find that the water fills the tube and, eventually, spills outward. Diagnosis complete.
I made the mistake of going in to the 'A' pillar linings, to find that everything is in 'as new' condition (2010 TDI). The silicon rubber hose is 'springy' and fresh. I took the opportunity to route some cabling to my crashcam; so it wasn't a complete waste of time.
I don't want to discount the value of all the other requirements for maintaining the seals(cleaning and Gummi); but always do the drain test first.
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:52 AM   #125
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You should not have water in the sunroof channels needing to be drained unless you have a sunroof that isn't sealing properly or you left it open in the rain?

If you have blocked drains then this is telling you water is going through them. Look carefully at how your sunroof sits in its aperture and seals. Where do you think water getting into drains is coming from and long term, what will it do to the steel channels?

Yes it's good to check they are clear, but also dry newspaper placed in the channels with the sunroof closed and hosed over will tell you if our EOS roof is like a bucket with a hole in it.

If the drain is blocked water backs up and leaks from the connector, therefore diagnosis and fix isn't complete because after clearing the drain, any further full or partial blockage will come back with the same result - Drain blocked when it shouldn't be getting water through anyway and the 'A' pillar hose connector is still leaking.
.

Last edited by voxmagna; 03-30-2019 at 01:18 PM.
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