EOS Door hinge and shut gap alignment after disaster.Part 2 - VW Eos Forum : Volkswagen Eos Forums

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Old 11-24-2019, 12:40 AM   #1
voxmagna
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Default EOS Door hinge and shut gap alignment after disaster.Part 2

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5. Fasten the 'A' pillar halves of the top and bottom hinges. At this stage new bolts should be tight to allow alignment, but not at final torque. Ensure protection packers are placed under and along the door cill, particularly at the front bottom corner and gap to the front wing if fitted. Have the jack or support in place for the rear of the door. Offer up the door to drop it down on its top hinge pin. If the bottom of the door is clear of the cill and wing, insert the bottom hinge bolts juggling the door height with the top hinge so the door bottom edge is clear of the cill with about the right shut gap. The top hinge can be used to set the cill shut gap at the front of the door, then only lifting the rear is needed with a little iterative back and forth to keep the same shut gap all along the bottom of the door. Warning: After mounting the door on its hinges fully open you must take care trying to close it watching the cill, door front and rear shut gaps to avoid damage to paint work. You will be working back and forth slackening and tightening the hinges and it is easy to not spot the door has dropped and could contact other paintwork. Eyeball the front door shut gap, adjust the jack height to get it slightly narrower at the top then tighten the top and bottom hinge bolts. Note that the bottom 'inside' bolt does most of the work stopping the door from dropping at the rear. But V.W were clever in putting that bolt inside because it allows you to close the door to within 50mm when no other hinge bolts are accessible, then with a jack under the bottom of the back edge of the door, tweak the height, stretch across the seats and tighten the inside bolt. I found it necessary to lift the back of the door slightly more than needed, then after settling, the lock hoop should be in the center of the lock 'V' where you want it.

Hinge to door bolts allow the door to be set in and out to align with the wing and rear body panels although some up and down movement is possible. The hinge to 'A' pillar bolts and in particular the bottom hinge bolts allow the door to be 'rotated' for the closed position to center the lock and achieve correct shut gaps but there is some iterative interaction from the hinge to door bolts. Having done all this, the lock hoop is centered but you were a bit sloppy and thought the front shut gap was a little narrow, but what the heck! Now you look at how the front window glass sits over the rear glass seal and see the gap between the glasses is much larger than spec. 9mm. This vertical seal contact across 2 glass edges is very important. You might also notice that the top edge of the front glass doesn't quite follow the roof seal line - equally important when the glass is closed to keep water out! The door glass needs to reach its fully raised or drop down position for alignment checks, but may be out of calibration if the glass has been moved with the motor removed. Just follow the one touch windows calibration procedure. On MY07 I close the drivers door, and hold the key to fully lock for 3 seconds then repeat and all comes good.

There are now 3 options, individual or a combination of all 3. If the front door to wing shut gap is too narrow (by even 1mm) the door has to come forwards whilst still keeping it centered with the lock hoop. With the door open 50mm and a jack supporting the rear edge, partially slacken the bolts fastening the top and bottom hinges to the 'A'pillarr and pull the door back towards the frame. That's the theory but it doesn't work well! Go back and tighten the 'A' frame hinge bolts to center the lock in the hoop. Now slacken the bottom hinge bolts a fraction to allow the back of the door to drop a little (wider shut gap at top front). Now tighten the top hinge bolts but not over tight, then jack the rear edge of the door up until you get a just slightly larger shut gap at the front door bottom. Go inside the cabin and tighten the lower bolt harder. Carefully lower the jack and the door should be set a little forwards and centered with the lock hoop. The front and cill shut gaps should be the same all the way down to the cill.

We have reduced the vertical gap between the front and rear glasses by 1mm but still aren't on the sweet spot of 9mm - measure the gap. Look at the rear edge of the front window glass and its position to the long wiper seal. When you fitted the glass on the regulator lifter, there is an oversize glass hole tolerance which allows the glass to be moved horizontally. Remove the outer door card if you fitted it (I didn't say fit it !) and connect the front window motor and front only window plug to the switch panel. I've now modified my internal front drivers window wiring harness to increase its length by 300mm (18 wires!), now I can lay my door card horizontal and easily connect and drive the window motor. The black support for the motor covering the regulator has 2 removable plastic caps. When removed these allow a spline tool to slacken the regulator sliding clamps when the window is dropped about 130mm. WARNING If you have a rain sensor and the screen is wet the glass could lift automatically whilst you have the torx tool in the lifter bolt. Either remove the motor plugs or turn on the ignition to stop RLS. Motor the glass down and slacken each glass clamp no more than about 1 turn. Mark the present position of the door glass rear edge on the foam seal. Slide the glass forwards/backwards taking up the error to achieve the nominal 9mm spacing. I had to move my front glass back 2mm. Tighten both regulator clamps, replace the plastic cover caps and check the rear to front glass vertical gap with the door closed. Now we may be left with a small discrepancy in level along the top edge of the glass relative to the seal in the window drop down position. When all the door shut gaps are correct and even along the shut line, any minor tilt error in the front window glass can be corrected by a small adjustment of the window lifters. There are 2 black plugs in the bottom of each door. After removing them, motor the window to the lowest service position and insert a 6 point torx driver through the hole to pick up on the lifter adjuster. DO NOT DAMAGE THE TORX HEAD! Follow the shop instruction to check the location of the glass marks with respect to the top roof seal.

There will probably be some window controller fault codes that need clearing with vcds. In the past I and others may have suggested window glass re-alignment to fix seal leaks. This advice was incorrect because shut lines should be checked first using a vernier or plastic packers of known width. Doors or roof segments could be misaligned because something has worn or moved, or a previous owner with a few hand tools and YouTube thought they knew best and moved the lock hoop or adjusted window lifters to compensate. And finally my jammed window problem was caused by the lifter on one side found to be off its track with no other internal damage.
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Last edited by voxmagna; 11-24-2019 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 11-24-2019, 08:40 AM   #2
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Glad for you to have it all fixed! Must have taken quite a lot more time as me reading it! Thanks for this write up!!!
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Old 11-24-2019, 09:20 AM   #3
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I now understand why replacing or re-aligning body parts on an EOS by a V.W trained technician can be very time consuming and expensive. The shop manual procedure is sparse with just a few lines, but it is clear on what you have to achieve.
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Old 11-26-2019, 11:18 PM   #4
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Few years ago, an old lady backing up from a driveway without looking and hit my passenger side door, damaging it pretty badly. Brought it to a very reputable shop and took them 5-6 tries to get it right. Every time they thought it was fixed, I brought it back, drove it and found issues with their repairs. Thanks to your write up, I now have a much better appreciation of what is involved in getting the door replace correctly.
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Old 11-26-2019, 11:50 PM   #5
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...and that wasn't a cabriolet like the EOS that could easily leak water. I think there's another lesson learned that anybody who thinks bodywork on an EOS can be done cheaply by a normal body shop should think again.and not just look at the paint repair afterwards.

I bought a couple of aftermarket clone wings for my EOS. They were a steal on the price charged by the dealer. The bodyshop paint work wasn't too bad, but I've since noticed I could have spent more time than they did and improved a couple of the shut gaps. I've always found when you have something go wrong on both sides, it's a lot harder working from the book specs with no references on the car to look at.
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