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Old 02-18-2018, 09:18 PM   #1
Brian_Vancouver0
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Default Door Card -- Peeling upholstering Repair?

I am wanting to repair the "peeling" upholstery on my driver side door card. I understand this is a relatively common problem.

My question is whether it is a terribly difficult task to remove and reinstall the top section of the interior door cover (i.e., the section that runs along the window line) in order to allow me to properly reaffix the upholstery? Can anyone direct me to a link showing how to do this removal/reinstallation?

Many thanks,

Brian

Vancouver
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:56 PM   #2
voxmagna
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If you are talking about the top 'capping', it normally falls off once you have had the door card off a few times. It falls off because V.W used useless hot melt glue in dabs between a shiny surface and the card. When you get the door card off you can see the glue points which you can use as location references when gluing it back.

If you run a flat blade between the top rail capping and the card I'm sure it will just come off. To replace it, use large dabs of silicone which is a much better solution anyway. I've replaced both mine that way.

As for the vinyl repair, it's tricky and the common cause of the problem is water being left inside the car or running into the door cavities and getting condensation locked in. Then when hot Summer arrives the moisture soaked up by the door card causes the vinyl (leather?) wrap to come away.If V.W had got PVA or something into the card material first to seal it from moisture, I think this problem wouldn't occur. You should make sure your door cards are absolutely dry before repairing them. Some here have used Superglue type adhesive. IMHO that's quite hard when set and silicone might work better, but only on dry surfaces. You normally need some heating from a hair drier to make the wrap more workable.
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Old 03-08-2018, 06:53 PM   #3
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Revisiting this...how did you hold the vinyl in place while the silicone dried seeing as you are stretching it back into place? I feel using clamps would leave an indentation. I guess you could use a long flat stick under a series of clamps. Ideas?
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:47 PM   #4
Brian_Vancouver0
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VoxMagna,

Thank you for the detailed recommendation. If the top section comes off -- its a lot easier than removing and replacing the whole door card. I'll take a look at it.

Best regards,

Brian
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Old 03-10-2018, 08:18 PM   #5
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I don't want to confuse: I'm talking about the top section of the door cards I called the 'capping' which on MY07 EOS Sport is solid black plastic. The door card is attached to it allowing it to 'hang' in the groove slot running along the inside top of the door. With the card removed you can see where they have used their useless heat glue, use dots of silicone in other places and align the capping back over the original glue spots.

If you are talking about vinyl shedding that's a different question. Do other models have something different along the top of each door card, like matching vinyl not like mine - post up some photos? We think the vinyl is applied to the fiber card in a heat based factory process where the card or wrap is pre- coated with an adhesive. I don't know many adhesives that will actually bond vinyl to a fiber surface. I suspect there's is something like a tacky Sellotape backing which would be water soluble and not good if the door card has dampness behind it. The cards material is not sealed and they would soak up moisture during wet weather, then release it to the vinyl interface during hot weather creating 'bubbles' in the vinyl layer. You can try drying out the whole card with a mains fan heater or hair dryers. sometimes if you are lucky you can pierce the bubble with a pin and the vinyl 'may' shrink back a little with heat. The problem is it will have already been heat shrunk during assembly and may not have any more shrink left.

I can't remember mine now, but other cars I've worked on seal a polythene sheet layer over the door inside covering all the apertures to act as a damp break between the card and the door cavities. This sheet covering is really important but many break into their doors for repairs and either tear it off or leave splits stopping it sealing. The EOS already has a built in design weakness because the long rubber wiper type blades lose contact with the door glass allowing water into the door cavity. You can see this if you open a door and water pours out the bottom from the front or rear drain.
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
If you are talking about vinyl shedding that's a different question. Do other models have something different along the top of each door card, like matching vinyl not like mine - post up some photos?
Yes, they have vinyl across the top of the door, not plastic. You actually responded to such a message before...

https://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10217

I wasn't aware that some had a plastic cap. Lucky you.
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Old 03-14-2018, 11:06 PM   #7
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O.K I understand. If you have the EOS Sport low line spec. like MY07 where they cheaped out on a lot of addons, you get the plain black plastic capping on the door cards. But if you have a higher spec. version you get a color co-ordinated vinyl wrap?

I don't find plain black an issue on my corn silk beige door cards. The door glass wiper blades are black and it just seems the right match. What's under your vinyl fancy match, is it plain black like mine?
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:12 AM   #8
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No, its the vinyl over the cardboard. Hence the peeling problem there as well.
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:51 AM   #9
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This is the same problem my partner had with her MY09 driver's door.

The final solution was a complete new door trim and associated fittings installed by our service dealer in Newcastle at a cost of AUD1100. I retrieved the old trim for experimentation but no success - the vinyl had stretched as well as delaminating from the backing and it was impossible to reattach without obvious wrinkles as stretching the vinyl to eliminate the wrinkles just caused more wrinkles elsewhere.

Unfortunately, I was not present when the new trim was fitted to see if the panel was different in manufacture to the original. There was a wait of over 3 months for the replacement panel to arrive and I suspect it was a one-off special order from the manufacturer and not a VW stock item.

.
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:05 PM   #10
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As long as the foam core is still o.k I would have thought somebody would be able to re-cover it? If the pattern or color has faded, do both door trims? The curves are soft which shouldn't be a problem for shaping or gentle heat stretching.

Black Vinyl upholstery covers are widely available in different patterns and this doesn't look unusual. Motorcycle seat re-covering firms use something similar. The key point is the adhesive used. I've been using an aerosol can of heavy duty upholstery adhesive for paper and card artwork. It is foam friendly and sticks like nothing I've come across before.There a few hazard warnings on the can!

The cards are probably trash now, so what's the risk of trying to recover with a black close match grain vinyl - 30??
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Old 03-16-2018, 01:33 AM   #11
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Black!!! in a Cornsilk Beige upholstered car? Never - would stick out like dog's testicles IMHO!!!

Also, in our climate, black upholstery is unsuitable as it gets too hot if exposed to direct sunlight plus it heats the interior meaning the car air-con takes longer to cool the cabin. Black is OK for cooler climates but not a wise choice here - my first new car had black upholstery and it ended up in a love-hate relationship: loved when the car was clean and the upholstery polished; hated on a hot day when it was too hot to sit on and the seats had to be covered with a thick cotton towel for comfort.

I took the panel to a specialist custom car trimmer who has a world-wide reputation for the quality of his work - his comment was "tough titties mate, would not touch this as it is a money pit, the backing does not provide a suitable solid structure for attaching the trim and do not dare to ask me for a quote to make a suitable one."

.
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Black!!! in a Cornsilk Beige upholstered car? Never - would stick out like dog's testicles IMHO!!!
Well, that's how the factory made and trimmed my EOS and I think I'm in a better position to seek out an alternative repair if i need it.

I'll rely on my filmed sunroof keeping out some of the harmful U.V. Perhaps you guys with too much sun need to tint your side windows before the door card trims rot away - or keep rubbing high factor sun lotion over them?
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File Type: jpg Door-card1-small.jpg (85.0 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg Interior-small.jpg (79.1 KB, 70 views)
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershadow View Post
Black!!! in a Cornsilk Beige upholstered car? Never - would stick out like dog's testicles IMHO!!!

Also, in our climate, black upholstery is unsuitable as it gets too hot if exposed to direct sunlight plus it heats the interior meaning the car air-con takes longer to cool the cabin. Black is OK for cooler climates but not a wise choice here - my first new car had black upholstery and it ended up in a love-hate relationship: loved when the car was clean and the upholstery polished; hated on a hot day when it was too hot to sit on and the seats had to be covered with a thick cotton towel for comfort.

I took the panel to a specialist custom car trimmer who has a world-wide reputation for the quality of his work - his comment was "tough titties mate, would not touch this as it is a money pit, the backing does not provide a suitable solid structure for attaching the trim and do not dare to ask me for a quote to make a suitable one."

.
People from the UK don't have much of a clue about hot weather climate problems, anything sticky peels away very quickly, you never use insulating tape if you can avoid it as when you take it off it is just yuk, and the only thing that cleans it up is a drop of metho and plenty of patience. I once measured the cabin temperature in my Ford Fairlane at 64dec celcius. The outside temp in Perth was only 41 deg. I was concerned about the integrity of my LPG installation connectors.....

Cheers, Tony.
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershadow View Post

I took the panel to a specialist custom car trimmer who has a world-wide reputation for the quality of his work - his comment was "tough titties mate, would not touch this as it is a money pit, the backing does not provide a suitable solid structure for attaching the trim and do not dare to ask me for a quote to make a suitable one."

.

Wow, that's harsh. There goes that idea. Thank you for the information.
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Old 03-17-2018, 12:31 AM   #15
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I have my side and rear windows tinted as well as my sunroof.
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Old 03-17-2018, 02:19 PM   #16
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You are in a hot place with plenty of U.V. Have you noticed any problems with your vinyl trim cracking?

Even though U.K is relatively mild for sun, I'd read about the expensive sunshade 'rotting' and in Summer, sun was hitting my leather seats and heating up the cabin interior when parked. I filmed the sunroof and with some reservations about the glass now getting hotter, it's been o.k so far. The cabin stays cooler top up and the air-con isn't working so hard.

I thought I'd gone a bit too dark on the gray sunroof shade and there's a big contrast now when I open the sunroof, but I've got used to it.
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Old 03-17-2018, 02:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jicafold View Post
Wow, that's harsh. There goes that idea. Thank you for the information.
Perhaps this is a problem in Aussie land? There are some things on the EOS I know are virtually impossible to do. But all modern cars use vinyl and leather and potentially there's a big market for repairs, including classic cars. One photo on a repairers website showed the exposed foam 'core' underneath the vinyl cover. How the repair price might compare with buying a new door card I don't know, but removing 2 door cards and shipping mail order isn't an impossible task. If you have a V.W custom color shade on the top of your door cards (mine are black!) you could have a problem matching the color and grain pattern.

A quick Google search found the following: There are some DIY repair kits I would be nervous trying, but If I had the problem I would consider talking to a firm doing repairs on their premises?

https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=e...pe=&as_rights=
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Old 03-17-2018, 10:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
............................................

A quick Google search found the following: There are some DIY repair kits I would be nervous trying, but If I had the problem I would consider talking to a firm doing repairs on their premises?

https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=e...pe=&as_rights=
I did exactly that and the response is as I quoted.

My partner will be keeping her Eos permanently so we are prepared to spend whatever necessary to keep the car original and in pristine condition as it will be a future rare classic car.

At the end of the day, the decision which way to go is yours; you pay your money and take your chances.

After 10 years, the Eos is pristine and admired by everyone who find it hard the accept the car will be 10 years old in a few months - the Manager of the VW servicing dealer always comes to see my partner when the car is booked in for servicing and asks her if she is considering selling her car and her answer is always "Never".
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Old 03-18-2018, 08:50 AM   #19
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I intend to keep my car for many more years too - I have had it since new in 2007 - I do not have any cracking however it is always garaged at home and at work so it is not exposed to our harsh climate. The roof is down a lot but 95% of my driving is early morning and late afternoon when the UV exposure is relatively low.
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Old 04-13-2018, 05:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Revisiting this...how did you hold the vinyl in place while the silicone dried seeing as you are stretching it back into place? I feel using clamps would leave an indentation. I guess you could use a long flat stick under a series of clamps. Ideas?
I used a few dozen mini binder clips. Put them along the entire edge.

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Old 04-22-2018, 12:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna View Post
Well, that's how the factory made and trimmed my EOS and I think I'm in a better position to seek out an alternative repair if i need it.

I'll rely on my filmed sunroof keeping out some of the harmful U.V. Perhaps you guys with too much sun need to tint your side windows before the door card trims rot away - or keep rubbing high factor sun lotion over them?
Vox-

Mine is black on black on black with the odd bit of silver plastic trim in various places.
Looks totally different to many others on here (the red sheen on the cockpit shot is from a red blanket I use to reduce heat on the seats).

Tony
Attached Images
File Type: jpg resized_22Apr2018_Top_Down_Front.jpg (102.9 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg resized_22Apr2018_Top_Down_Front_Nearside.jpg (101.1 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg resized_22Apr2018_Top_Down_Front_Offside.jpg (104.7 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg resized_22Apr2018_Top_Down_Rear.jpg (122.2 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg resized_22Apr2018_Top_Down_RHSide.jpg (80.2 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 22Apr2018_Drivers_Cockpit.jpg (199.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg 22Apr2018_Drivers_Door.jpg (193.0 KB, 57 views)
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:48 PM   #22
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Here's some pictures of a door card I'm re-doing today. I originally fixed it a few years ago in two places. Those repairs are still holding fast (yay!) but the rest of the edge is now peeling/shrinking:
1. Put a 50 watt halogen spot lamp on it for a few minutes to soften up the vinyl.
2. Superglue, stretch vinyl over the edge and then clamp with mini binder clips.
3. Looking from the other direction. I pretty-much did the whole edge this time. I probably should've done that a couple of years ago?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1 Heat with spotlamp.jpg (198.0 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg 2 glued and clamped.jpg (194.2 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg 3 View from other direction.jpg (199.4 KB, 73 views)
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Last edited by Atl; 09-03-2018 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 11:53 PM   #23
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This is a common problem with the EOS. Was told by an upholsterer that the dash is another problem area.
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:01 AM   #24
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I took my car to a custom upholstery shop and they applied glue and use the heat gun to flatten out the door panel. Unfortunately the next day it had all bounce back to where it was. When I went back they used tiny black Staples in the trim that were basically invisible and that issue has not occurred again.
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Old 09-06-2018, 12:29 PM   #25
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The problem with any vinyl repair will always be the adhesive because vinyl is very chemically inert and not much reacts with it. Cryanolate based Super Glue might appear to stick, but stays on the surface of vinyl and plastics. Silicone adhesives have excellent adhesion without chemical bonding, but won't work well for thin layers. What you need is a vinyl adhesive that welds/melts into the material to form a proper bond. There are some specialist ABS adhesives around which might be worth trying although repairs tend to be done by heat welding using a filler.

Staples are a good idea to hold heat stretched vinyl in place as long as they don't go rusty later on. However, if the door cards get damp and release their moisture, you may get the vinyl bubbling or lifting away.

I just found this:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cnt...e-Adhesive.htm

For the chemists it contains Methyle ethyle ketone and Isocyanate terminated polyurethane. I don't know how viscose it is.

I have use polyurethane windscreen sealant in a cartridge for some things which always stuck what I put it on and was very hard to remove. It comes in 2 versions - air cure and catalyzed. For a thin layer I'd try the catalyzed version, but once you mix the binary agent you have to use it all!

Last edited by voxmagna; 09-06-2018 at 06:17 PM. Reason: additions
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