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Old 02-27-2016, 03:26 PM   #1
bgpixelman
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Question Vacuum pump leak on 2.0t

I tried searching this forum without luck even though it is probably a very common issue. My 2008 EOS 2.0 has about 80k miles on it and I was told by dealership that I have an oil vacuum pump leak. It would cost about $600 for total repair. They said it is in a tricky place but their technicians do a lot of them and can replace them easily. I would appreciate any tips or links as to how I might be able to do this myself with the assistance of a mechanically inclined friend. Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:20 PM   #2
voxmagna
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Although I have a diesel, I had to make a decision on a similar problem with an EGR valve that was right at the back, buried in the exhaust, turbo and driveshaft area when weather was cold and wet. On modern cars it seems quite common to have to drop the front sub frame and or a driveshaft just to get access. Without a 4 post lift it can be hard working on your back!

I think you have to cost it all out: How much is the part new or re-conditioned you have to buy anyway. How much is the labor at VW shop rates (worst case!), then at the rates charged by an independent. If their labor is just 2 or 3 hours, then you can bet it could be a DIY job. Over 6 or 7 hours for them, could mean a tricky DIY job for you.

If you are looking for a 'How to', find what other VW's or Audis share your engine type, you may find more info than a specific EOS search.

Just my 10 cents.
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Old 04-01-2019, 02:56 PM   #3
G2000
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I just started noticing a leak on mine (08 EOS). It all seems to have started when I took it to the dealer for an oil change about a year ago when they over filled it. $600 though is kinda steep. I am going to see if those torx screws are loose. Im also thinking that its almost time for my timing belt to be replace so maybe I can wait it out a bit and do it all in on shot.

EDIT: Its a 25 bit torx, 4 on the front and they all seem tight. Guess I am going to have to bite the bullet again on this one

Last edited by G2000; 04-01-2019 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:03 PM   #4
voxmagna
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It's too late to say if overfilling with oil caused problems, but it should never have happened. I buy the 4.5l bottles of V.W approved synth. for my Tdi and with a filter change, 1 bottle is nearly just right. I think that's how V.W designed the sump capacity. Workshops may buy oil cheaper in bulk containers and pump out what they need?

Doing other work at the same time is more cost effective on labor because a lot of the surrounding engine 'clutter' has to be removed anyway. It's funny how these garages say they know ways around? I had this with a rear mounted EGR on a 4WD where they should have removed the dpf and a front drive shaft to get rear access, all costing mega bucks for labor. Their big advantage is a 4 post lift which makes it much easier working around the back than lying on your back under ramps. I also think one trick is to remove an engine tie and slacken mountings, which then allows the engine to be rolled forwards a few inches.
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Old 04-04-2019, 02:36 AM   #5
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Unfortunately it did, twice and the last one was at the $tealer! You would think they would know better right? Its very frustrating I cant find a single decent shop near me.

I was considering going it myself but I after looking at some videos, it seems like some VW motors have a post near it. Some of these dudes basically disassembled the pump to put it back in (which IMHO sounds like a bad idea). I think I'll wait it out a bit and do it all in one shot. Thanks Vox!
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Old 04-19-2019, 11:34 AM   #6
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I'm not doubting what your expert technicians have told you but I'll throw this in: I had the engine tray off my Tdi to investigate an oil leak I had been told about. The oil at the back of the engine and on the tray was definitely very black engine oil and I'm thinking the worst as it was only at the hard to get to rear.

Then I came across a post talking about loose engine (rocker) cover bolts on V.W engines. I got my spline tools out and all bolts holding the top cover were finger tight! I couldn't believe my luck. The engine valve cover on my Tdi is plastic and their sealing gasket is rubber and ribbed I guess. The tightening torque on the M6(?) bolts is only about 10Nm which is nothing and they make matters worst by using 2 bolts to hold down wiring clips. Worst case I'm into a new cover and gasket assembly or gasket and it's fairly easy to change. For now I've retightened all the bolts to 12Nm to see if the oil leak stops.

The V.W cover fixing seems a bad design waiting to leak because there is nothing to stop the cover screws held down on springy rubber from working loose. If I can get a good look at the gasket profile and cover, I may see if I can add spacers or shoulders behind each cover screw, which is the way they should have done it. The idea is to make the spacer about 2mm less than the rubber gasket thickness which allows it to be compressed with enough torque on the screws to stop them working loose. Well, that's todays light bulb idea.
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