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There's not a whole lot of information out there on how to change the oil & filter on the new 2.0T TSI engine, presumably because it's a lot simpler than the old 2.0T FSI engine. The 2.0T TSI has a metal spin-on filter at the top left of the engine, not a replaceable filter element underneath the engine, like the older 2.0T FSI.
I did my first oil change on our 2009 2.0T TSI Eos last weekend, and thought I'd share the basic procedures I used. The Bentley eBahn manual is unfortunately pretty sketchy about changing the TSI's oil and filter. I also had to search all over the manual for the various torque values.
If anyone picks up any goofs or glaring omissions I've made, please post and I'll correct as required.
Standard caveat applies that these are tips only, and I'm not responsible if you mess up your car or drop it on your head!
Some preliminary notes:
- The 76mm 14 flute oil filter cap wrench can be had for about $5USD at your local Advance, Pep Boys, etc. Easiest thing is just to take your VW filter into the store and find the one that fits. All of these type cap wrenches seem to use 3/8" drive.
- The "triple square" screws require special triple square bits, sometimes referred to as XZN bits. They superficially resemble a 12-tooth spline drive, but they're not - the teeth are 90 degrees, not 60. I got a nice set of VIM triple square bits for about $25USD off eBay. If you plan on working on your Eos, you'll use them elsewhere - the seat attach bolts, for instance.
- Aftermarket magnetic drain plugs that use replaceable crush washers can be found on several sites, such as ECS Tuning, Metalnerd, etc. Thread size is 14x1.5.
On to the procedures:
Supplies:
- 5 quarts/liters of your favorite VW 502 spec oil per owner’s manual.
- Oil filter.
- New factory drain plug (which has a captive washer), or a new crush washer with a reusable aftermarket drain plug.
Tools:
- 18mm socket for factory drain plug (aftermarket drain plug may be a different size)
- 76mm 14 flute cap wrench for oil filter
- Socket wrench
- 3/8" drive torque wrench capable of 30Nm
- 3/8” extension
- T20 torx driver (if you remove belly pan)
- 8mm triple square bit (if you remove belly pan)
- Ramps or jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Oil drain pan
- Funnel
1. Warm the car up a bit, and put it up on ramps or jack stands. Chock rear wheels.
2. Optional: Remove engine cover, the black & gray rectangular plastic thing with “TSI” on it. It just pulls up and off, there are four pins holding it onto the engine. Removing the engine cover makes it easier to access the oil filter & clean around the oil filler cap.
3. Wipe off sand/dirt from the rubber grommet around the oil filler cap, and loosen the cap.
4. Optional: Remove the belly pan. Warning: edges are sharp! To me it appears that pulling the drain plug will result in a messy, dirt-collecting coating of oil on the top of the belly pan, given the small size of the rectangular access and its proximity to the drain hole. Plus, I think it's a good idea in general to look around under the engine when you do oil changes, to see if anything is amiss. For my 2009 Eos, the pan is held on with eight T20 torx screws, and eight 8mm triple square screws. According to eBahn, your car may have more or less, but the fastener types should be the same.
5. Remove the drain plug and let oil drain into the drain pan.
6. Once the flow diminishes out of the drain, loosen the oil filter with the cap wrench slowly until you see the flow increase again. Don’t remove the filter all the way; let its oil drain through the engine into the drain pan.
7. When the flow slows down again, unscrew the filter the rest of the way by hand and pick the filter straight up. There shouldn’t be any drips – sweet!
8. Lube the new filter with fresh oil and install. Tighten to 22Nm with the cap wrench, 3/8” extension, and torque wrench.
9. Install a new drain plug, or an aftermarket drain plug with a new crush washer. Tighten plug to 30Nm with the appropriate socket and torque wrench.
10. Remove oil filler cap and fill engine with oil. A funnel doesn’t want to sit in the shallow fill opening by itself, so you’ll have to hold it in place while you pour the oil. I started with 4.5qt. Replace oil cap, and confirm oil level is okay on dipstick.
11. While you still have the car on ramps/jack stands, run engine and check for leaks.
12. Replace belly pan if previously removed. The torque value for the torx screws is 2Nm and for the triple square screws it’s 20Nm. I personally didn’t fool with a torque wrench for these fasteners, and used a calibrated “snug” instead.
13. Lower car off ramps or jack stands.
14. Check dipstick again with the car level, and add oil as required to get it to the max level. Factory capacity is 4.9qt, or 4.6l.
13. Snap the engine cover back in place.
Done!
I did my first oil change on our 2009 2.0T TSI Eos last weekend, and thought I'd share the basic procedures I used. The Bentley eBahn manual is unfortunately pretty sketchy about changing the TSI's oil and filter. I also had to search all over the manual for the various torque values.
If anyone picks up any goofs or glaring omissions I've made, please post and I'll correct as required.
Standard caveat applies that these are tips only, and I'm not responsible if you mess up your car or drop it on your head!
Some preliminary notes:
- The 76mm 14 flute oil filter cap wrench can be had for about $5USD at your local Advance, Pep Boys, etc. Easiest thing is just to take your VW filter into the store and find the one that fits. All of these type cap wrenches seem to use 3/8" drive.
- The "triple square" screws require special triple square bits, sometimes referred to as XZN bits. They superficially resemble a 12-tooth spline drive, but they're not - the teeth are 90 degrees, not 60. I got a nice set of VIM triple square bits for about $25USD off eBay. If you plan on working on your Eos, you'll use them elsewhere - the seat attach bolts, for instance.
- Aftermarket magnetic drain plugs that use replaceable crush washers can be found on several sites, such as ECS Tuning, Metalnerd, etc. Thread size is 14x1.5.
On to the procedures:
Supplies:
- 5 quarts/liters of your favorite VW 502 spec oil per owner’s manual.
- Oil filter.
- New factory drain plug (which has a captive washer), or a new crush washer with a reusable aftermarket drain plug.
Tools:
- 18mm socket for factory drain plug (aftermarket drain plug may be a different size)
- 76mm 14 flute cap wrench for oil filter
- Socket wrench
- 3/8" drive torque wrench capable of 30Nm
- 3/8” extension
- T20 torx driver (if you remove belly pan)
- 8mm triple square bit (if you remove belly pan)
- Ramps or jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Oil drain pan
- Funnel
1. Warm the car up a bit, and put it up on ramps or jack stands. Chock rear wheels.
2. Optional: Remove engine cover, the black & gray rectangular plastic thing with “TSI” on it. It just pulls up and off, there are four pins holding it onto the engine. Removing the engine cover makes it easier to access the oil filter & clean around the oil filler cap.
3. Wipe off sand/dirt from the rubber grommet around the oil filler cap, and loosen the cap.
4. Optional: Remove the belly pan. Warning: edges are sharp! To me it appears that pulling the drain plug will result in a messy, dirt-collecting coating of oil on the top of the belly pan, given the small size of the rectangular access and its proximity to the drain hole. Plus, I think it's a good idea in general to look around under the engine when you do oil changes, to see if anything is amiss. For my 2009 Eos, the pan is held on with eight T20 torx screws, and eight 8mm triple square screws. According to eBahn, your car may have more or less, but the fastener types should be the same.
5. Remove the drain plug and let oil drain into the drain pan.
6. Once the flow diminishes out of the drain, loosen the oil filter with the cap wrench slowly until you see the flow increase again. Don’t remove the filter all the way; let its oil drain through the engine into the drain pan.
7. When the flow slows down again, unscrew the filter the rest of the way by hand and pick the filter straight up. There shouldn’t be any drips – sweet!
8. Lube the new filter with fresh oil and install. Tighten to 22Nm with the cap wrench, 3/8” extension, and torque wrench.
9. Install a new drain plug, or an aftermarket drain plug with a new crush washer. Tighten plug to 30Nm with the appropriate socket and torque wrench.
10. Remove oil filler cap and fill engine with oil. A funnel doesn’t want to sit in the shallow fill opening by itself, so you’ll have to hold it in place while you pour the oil. I started with 4.5qt. Replace oil cap, and confirm oil level is okay on dipstick.
11. While you still have the car on ramps/jack stands, run engine and check for leaks.
12. Replace belly pan if previously removed. The torque value for the torx screws is 2Nm and for the triple square screws it’s 20Nm. I personally didn’t fool with a torque wrench for these fasteners, and used a calibrated “snug” instead.
13. Lower car off ramps or jack stands.
14. Check dipstick again with the car level, and add oil as required to get it to the max level. Factory capacity is 4.9qt, or 4.6l.
13. Snap the engine cover back in place.
Done!
