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Discussion Starter #1
Wifey complained about noises when she drove over a bump or road humps. I listened to the springy metal type 'boing' sound but couldn't tie it down. Checked all wheels bearings, body heights (springs) and around the muffler and hangers. No safety issues but noise still there. Sometimes I thought it was up front, other times behind me. Decided to go no further for a while until it got worse and easier to trace.

3 months later I'm going mad every time I drive the car. Strategy was to investigate inside the front doors for a loose regulator bar and similarly on the rears. working towards a rear suspension teardown to check for a damaged spring or lack of rubber de-coupling between the spring, body and axel. There is a VW mod about this issue affecting the 2007 EOS requiring the spring location plates to be replaced if there are (noise!) problems. I believe they just rubber coated the surfaces to give a quieter ride.

Rear window regulators? Well you don't want to go there. There's a kind of 'carrier plate' inside the rear arch cavity that lifts out, but first you have to remove the inner and outer chrome strip and seals. Inner is easy, but outer with the chrome strip I know from replacing the front can be a one way trip getting it off the door and requires a new part. Stopped at that point for a tea break!

My next step was to lift the rear off the ground and drop the springs, because that was the kind of noise I was hearing. I managed to tie down the noise over bumps to the rear nearside (UK EOS). I checked over the roof bolts , well all I could get to and inside the fish tanks - nothing jumped out at me.

Looked underneath from the rear fender and thought the ali exhaust heat shield was rather 'sonorous'. killed that with a sound deadening pad. Cabin noise over bumps still there.:(

What follows is the fault and solution::):)

The EOS parking brake cable outer sheath exits each rear wheel hub forwards of each wheel and passes over two substantial lengths of steel forming an 'A' stiffening section coming close together under the trunk floor.

On one side (driver side for me), the ABS fuel cell seems to be in contact and that section does not ring when you tap it. On the opposite side the other stiffening strut 'rings' like a proverbial bell. But hey, what is that chaffing I can just make out on the parking brake outer cable jacket just where it passes over the strut? Now why did I not see that before? Reason: If you check with the parking brake on, the outer jacket lifts up clear of the strut and you can see it worn down to the spring outer sheath. When the parking brake is off, the cable tends to drop down and sit across the strut. That is normal driving.

The annoying spring type noises would have got worse over time as the parking brake plastic outer sheath wore away, until there was bare metal hitting the strut. Because it was not damped, it made the spring like 'boing' noises that were driving me mad - windows up or down. Earlier I had been fooled because the car did not appear to make the same noise driving slowly over my test humps with the top down. I now think this was because of the changed load on the rear suspension and the parking brake cables not banging against the struts.

Solution:
Damp those two long struts, although the strut under the fuel cell is less of a problem. I couldn't find the body panel vibration damping pads I had. But I did have a full roll of 2 inch wide Denso tape which is a very sticky waxy self amalgamating tape used to wrap steel pipes set in the ground. I wrapped 5 or 6 turns around the strut where the parking brake cables cross, and a second wrap further along the strut. Both struts are now totally dead.

Finally, I cut a couple of 8 inch lengths of 1/2" heater hose, slit the side, pushed it over each parking brake jacket and closed the hose ends with black Tyewraps.

Result: No more noise going over bumps, no issue with the roof shims others complained of and a super quite EOS, apart from a few rubbery squeaks which will go after Krytoxing.

I would suggest you all chock the front wheels and run your fingers over each parking brake outer jacket where it crosses each strut just forwards of the rear wheels. You can do everything and fix the problem on your back under the rear cills, without jacking the rear. If you feel a flat then the parking brake cables are making contact with the struts and you will eventually get the same noises which would take the uninformed a long time to find!
 

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Great information! Do you know if this is a design flaw common to all model years?
 

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VW apparently made some changes the design. Our 2014 has plastic inserts on the stiffening struts to prevent the strut to cable contact. No noises and no damage to the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A while back somebody here posted about the parking brake cable, but it wasn't in the context of getting the cabin noises I got that were really hard to figure out. My memory has faded, but I 'think' a new parking brake cable from VW now comes with protectors on the sleeve, similar to my heater hose fix. They cannot do much else, because the cable has to run across the top of the tie struts.

There is another fix they could do which is to use one of the adjacent M10 bolts and fit a loop coil thingy that holds the cable jacket just above the tie struts.

I suspect a rubbing parking brake cable is a no-no in safe vehicle braking systems design. I always thought brake parts had to be clear. Probably most unlikely, but the worst case scenario is the pvc outer jacket and steel liner degrade/go rusty/corrode and the cable breaks when your car is parked on a down slope not left in gear!

Just go out, lie on your back and feel along the cable jackets for a rubbing flat where it crosses the tie struts on each side.
 
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