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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi people

I've bought my 2007 Eos Sport TDI DSG well over a year and a half ago. Everything was fine until Christmas 2022 when my Eos was left outside for 3 weeks whilst I was on holiday, prked on a decline. What to say other than half of my interior is in my living room now, drying and I'm in the battle against water leak(s) hence why I joined this comunity in hope I will get some info on how to deal with this.

I'm Sven by the way, located in Berkshire , UK.

 

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Sorry to hear your story. There is plenty here to read but for now get as much dried out as you can. If you can borrow one, get a domestic Currys type dehumidifer and leave it in the foot well for a day with the ski hatch open and the trunk tray removed.

How much water was in the trunk under the spare? If the water level got to the roof pump, put a fan heater in the trunk pointing at it (Watch the heat and no more than 1kW setting!).

Ignore anything you read about sunroof drains because that's unlikely to be the main problem. Unfortunately, water leaks are a comon complaint particularly parking outside on up slopes, but the reasons are often varied with no 'One fits all' solution. Careful checking for leaks with a hosepipe comes next. The best way to have an EOS full of water when parked is to forget and leave windows open, particularly the small rears. We have had exceptional rain in U.K last 3 weeks. Concentrate on the drain channel under the back window. It's a very bad design which can flood when there is heavy rain. Parked on an upslope, most of the roof rain falls down the back window into this gulley. You can prove how easily it floods with a hose. I discovered this the first time I left MY07 was up on front ramps. Buy a car cover for long trips away when parked. Talk to your dealer because I think they fitted a flipper type seal on the front of the trunk lid at some time, but it would never make a perfect seal once the gulley floods over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry to hear your story. There is plenty here to read but for now get as much dried out as you can. If you can borrow one, get a domestic Currys type dehumidifer and leave it in the foot well for a day with the ski hatch open and the trunk tray removed.

How much water was in the trunk under the spare? If the water level got to the roof pump, put a fan heater in the trunk pointing at it (Watch the heat and no more than 1kW setting!).

Ignore anything you read about sunroof drains because that's unlikely to be the main problem. Unfortunately, water leaks are a comon complaint particularly parking outside on up slopes, but the reasons are often varied with no 'One fits all' solution. Careful checking for leaks with a hosepipe comes next. The best way to have an EOS full of water when parked is to forget and leave windows open, particularly the small rears. We have had exceptional rain in U.K last 3 weeks. Concentrate on the drain channel under the back window. It's a very bad design which can flood when there is heavy rain. Parked on an upslope, most of the roof rain falls down the back window into this gulley. You can prove how easily it floods with a hose. I discovered this the first time I left MY07 was up on front ramps. Buy a car cover for long trips away when parked. Talk to your dealer because I think they fitted a flipper type seal on the front of the trunk lid at some time, but it would never make a perfect seal once the gulley floods over.
Hi, tnx for your reply.

The whole boot area is now free from any carpets and mats. Everything is stripped. Spare wheel is 100% dry. Pump & its sponge case isi 100% dry.

Wet areas:

1. Boot lid inside due to a broken 3rd brake light.
2. Left boot arch cover due to drips from the underneath inner left tail light. Unknown reason. Whenever I open my boot lid, water starts to drip from outside, from the gap between the tail light and the boot lid itself.
3. Drivers side fish tank full of water.
4. Passenger side fish tank no water for now but damp all around.
5. Drivers side carpet ( both ) wet as Niagara Falls.

I will strip the whole interior tomorrow and get the carpet to dry somehow. It's dripping wet atm.

I will check both rear drains tomorrow. I haven't taken my top down since September. Not really keen to do so but will have to..

I never got to understand where from water gets into the tanks. There's a post ( might even be yours ) about new type seal but no part number for it. Also you mentioned a new seal above the boot, have you got the part no ?

Around November I've noticed my drivers side seatbelt was a bit damp but I was like..no it was just cold early in a morning when I was going to work. But knowing what I know now is that it slowly started back in November and heavy rains in last 3 weeks was the tipping point.

Anyway..will post photos tomorrow as I work. Hope it won't rain here
 

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A portable domestic dehumidifier will do a lot more than taking photos. There's plenty of information here on the subject if you search the site.

It's chucking it down torrential with me today. There are lots of avenues to explore if you search. I wouldn't operate the top until you are absolutely sure everything is dry. Lights fitted on the boot lid can break their seals (or have cracked lenses) and there are posts from me and others. There's also some work you can do to stop the waterfall into the boot if you open it when raining. When the car is parked on an up slope, virtually all the roof water drains rearwards over the back window on to the boot lid and over the light units. Do not suspect the large trunk seal first. You will see that the trunk lid is a cover over the rear and sides and only wind could bring in water if you had a bad trunk seal. The long back edge of the trunk lid is a different matter to investigate.

I got lots of water in my fish tanks when the car was up on the front wheel ramps first time around, but only a cc or 2 now. But I fitted drain tubes in the bottom as a precaution anyway. Water inside the fish tanks is a disaster. If you don't know it's there when driving, after you brake it all sloshes back into the trunk and can even get along the loom wiring into the roof controller inside the left rear cubby.

A portable domestic dehumidifer really is your friend at the moment. The fitted carpets are polyprop./nylon and will hold water underneath for a long time then smell. You worry about carpets but there are loads of electrical connections inside the cabin to get Gremlins in future if you leave water and dampness behind. If you have a buddy with a spray shop, he might let you leave your car in his oven after a job whilst it's cooling down? IMHO I'd get the car thoroughly dried out, use a car cover and do investigation work when the weather improves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A portable domestic dehumidifier will do a lot more than taking photos. There's plenty of information here on the subject if you search the site.

It's chucking it down torrential with me today. There are lots of avenues to explore if you search. I wouldn't operate the top until you are absolutely sure everything is dry. Lights fitted on the boot lid can break their seals (or have cracked lenses) and there are posts from me and others. There's also some work you can do to stop the waterfall into the boot if you open it when raining. When the car is parked on an up slope, virtually all the roof water drains rearwards over the back window on to the boot lid and over the light units. Do not suspect the large trunk seal first. You will see that the trunk lid is a cover over the rear and sides and only wind could bring in water if you had a bad trunk seal. The long back edge of the trunk lid is a different matter to investigate.

I got lots of water in my fish tanks when the car was up on the front wheel ramps first time around, but only a cc or 2 now. But I fitted drain tubes in the bottom as a precaution anyway. Water inside the fish tanks is a disaster. If you don't know it's there when driving, after you brake it all sloshes back into the trunk and can even get along the loom wiring into the roof controller inside the left rear cubby.

A portable domestic dehumidifer really is your friend at the moment. The fitted carpets are polyprop./nylon and will hold water underneath for a long time then smell. You worry about carpets but there are loads of electrical connections inside the cabin to get Gremlins in future if you leave water and dampness behind. If you have a buddy with a spray shop, he might let you leave your car in his oven after a job whilst it's cooling down? IMHO I'd get the car thoroughly dried out, use a car cover and do investigation work when the weather improves.
Was just reading your older post regarding the seals at the rear of the roof and how they broke at yours. I haven't got to that point yet so I can't tell the state of mine but it is obvious something's not right. I will strip the whole car, get the dehumidifier and leave it inside until it's all dry. With all the carpets and seats out, this should not be a problem.

Need to order a 3rd brake light, rear inner tail light seals, vw badge seal and go from there.

I need to find the solution to the waterfall into the boot when opened ( from the gap between inner tail lights and boot only ). because it pisses me off. My boot linen gets wet every time from 5-10 drops from each side. Not sure what causes it.

Anyway Let's see what Argos got
 

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A domestic dehumidifier should be about 250 Watts+ small compressor type, not electronic. Any smaller Wattage or something chemical going by another name should be avoided. You leave it inside the car closed up until it sucks out no more water. You'll be amazed at how much water it gets out.

There's a lot of different issues to read, but it's down to you to test your car and see what is relevant to your problem. I posted about the waterfall from the boot lid when it opens. It has a lot to do with the shape profile. If you look at most cars, their trunk lids are shaped to make water to fall away across each side. But not so with the EOS, water just rolls off the flat top and across the lights, whilst some stays trapped inside crevices until the angle changes when the lid is opened.

This one should be the business, but you may find similar elsewhere because dehumidifier prices go up during Winter. When you use it inside your house your heating bills can go down as well, so get your wife/partner/housemates to pay half.
When you think you have fixed it, take it once through an Asda car wash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is my progress :





Both carpets are drying in the shed at the moment. Interior bits are in living room. Some sponges are drying as well.

As we can see some broken bits, and raw interior :)

In a few days I will have my dehumidifier ready for the first round.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got rid of the water in fish tank



Interior taken apart and wiped





Noticed my NS flap needs readjusting as it is not in its default position. Need to look into it how it's done. Hence why my OS rear window catches the flap when closing.
 

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FWIW, I removed all of my rear lights and ran a bead of clear silicone around them. The gasket used on the lights is questionable at best, especially as it ages. I could not remove the rear emblem but ran a bead of silicone around the inside. All of these measures were preventative maintenance. Only problem I found on mine was a small crack on the third brake light, I sealed the crack from the inside with a bead of superglue.

I suggest ensuring that all your drains are clear of debris, as it is a known source of water ingress into the cabin.
 

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It's scary for others looking at it, but it's the correct way to go about it. Even a small leak anywhere becomes a magnet for water inside when there's non-stop rain.

When dealers had the unenviable job of doing this under the 3 year factory warranty, they would take everything out like you and replace all the carpets. But most important, with the car interior stripped they had the best opportunity to get somebody with a hose on the outside and somebody else sat on the floor looking for water getting in. Some have a secret weapon which you don't have, fill the cabin with a refrigerant gas and go around seals and panels from the outside with a sniffer gas sensor.

I hope you bought that top cover to stop any more water getting in until you do the testing? Unfortunately, UK temperatures are plummeting next week as we get those cold winds delayed coming at us from the States (Or is it the Beast from the East?). You may need to postpone testing for a couple of weeks? If you can get yourself some electrical switch contact cleaner, separate any connectors you can see and spray it on. Make sure you don't miss the roof control module and reversing modules mounted behind the trunk side panels.

Only problem I found on mine was a small crack on the third brake light, I sealed the crack from the inside with a bead of superglue.
That's strange because mine had a crack too. It didn't let in water but I swapped it out anyway. I couldn't find a Chinese clone the same shape and bought an OE -- expensive at £60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As we can see my 3rd brake light has two tabs broken and it's obvious it's letting water through. I have ordered inner tail light seals and that will do the job until Summer as I'm planning to retrofit facelift tail lights anyway so the seals should last 4-5 months tops. 3rd brake orderes as well as VW badge seal, roof pump cover as well.

I am doing this 2nd time on EOS so It's not a big deal time wise but pisses me out as it is time consuming if done properly. As for the temps, I haven't checked what is going my way here in Berkshire so we'll see.

Big indication will be tomorrow morning when I wake up and check on the windows to see if there's any condensation on them.

Anybody know how to adjust the big side flap ?
 

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Big indication will be tomorrow morning when I wake up and check on the windows to see if there's any condensation on them.
Don't expect a result immediately, you may always get some on the back window or the inside surface of the sunroof glass, it's just a question of how much? Hose tests are handy, but I do the 'bucket test'. Fill a bucket with water, close all doors and windows then dump the whole lot in the center of the roof.

Anybody know how to adjust the big side flap ?
It's here with photos and a YT link if you search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's been a few weeks now. I've had this bad boy in my car on for good 4-5 days in a row.



The end result is this. I would say 1 liter of water sucked out of the car



My next step now is to put the carpet inside ( after it has dried ) and try to get rid of the smell using Ozone generator tool.



I will do a few rounds of 60min sessions and see the progress. After that I will deep clean the black carpet that goes on top of this one.

Parts ordered at VW:

  • 3rd brake light
  • Tail light seals
  • VW badge seal

Tried to order a roof pump foam but it is not available anymore and can not be ordered. I wil need to stick to mine or find a spare elsewhere. Not that mine is damaged but wanted to get a fresh new one.

I am hoping to take the roof down this week and clean the drains all together. The only thing stopping me is, some sort of touch and close fastening tape that sticks onto the sunroof sliders. It came off so when I try to close the sunroof, it wrinkles and gets jammed but the sunroof motor is strong enough so it doesn't stop it from closing.

I need to find a way to either glue the current one ( clean the sunroof slider and apply the glue ) or cut the dry bit and stick a fresh new bit. I need to figure out what is the best material to use. It also reminds me of dashboard flock ...
 
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