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2007 VW Eos cranks but won't start - Running out of things to test/replace (and also patience)

853 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  voxmagna
I've recently rebuilt my cars engine (EA113 BWA) and surprisingly, everything went pretty well. Once it was all back together it started, ran and after getting it checked out by my mechanic, it was certifiably running smoothly. All was well until after less than 10km of driving it cut out and wouldn't start. So here's the story so far:
  • Car cut out, wouldn't restart, replaced battery but didn't fix, towed to mechanic
  • Sat for a few days, car ran normally for mechanic, they assumed fuel line just had air bubble, took it home
  • Cut out on drive home (after approx. 5km), wouldn't start but got code P2293
  • Had cracked N276 + the code so replaced HPFP and it started
  • Ran for longer (10km or so) but cut out again on drive home
  • P2293 code gone but new code P310B, so replaced G410 sensor, car started and ran
  • Got even further this time (about 20km) but cut out once again
  • P310B came back so replaced fuel tank pump and fuel pump control module
  • This time didn't run. P310B is gone but still wont start.
  • Previously it had occasionally started properly for 3-4 seconds and then died, but this now rarely happens (still sometimes though).
  • When it starts it runs perfectly, so I doubt any timing issues.
Known good parts:
  • Fuel Tank Pump - Replaced (tested at 6.something bar with pressure gauge so fuel filter also fine)
  • Fuel Pump Control Module - Replaced
  • G410 Low Pressure Fuel Sensor - Replaced
  • High Pressure Fuel Pump (inc. N276 valve) - Replaced
  • HPFP Cam Follower - Replaced (looked fine before replacing)
  • Battery - Replaced (and voltage tested good)
  • Spark Plugs - Replaced
  • Coil Packs - Replaced
Only other reported code was something about the PCV system/purge valve but I can't remember, I didn't write it down as I assumed it was just due to messing around with the PCV hoses when testing things. Could be a clue but I'm very unsure about it. Could a vacuum leak cause an issue like this?
I'm pretty much at the end of my diagnostic ability, the car is sitting on the side of the road 30min away from my house so I'll probably have to get it towed soon. If anyone has an idea for other things I should test/replace before that happens then please let me know, I'm not strapped for cash by any means but the time and money I've spent on this is really starting to get to me. Any help is very appreciated.
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I've recently rebuilt my cars engine (EA113 BWA) and surprisingly, everything went pretty well. Once it was all back together it started, ran and after getting it checked out by my mechanic, it was certifiably running smoothly. All was well until after less than 10km of driving it cut out and wouldn't start. So here's the story so far:
  • Car cut out, wouldn't restart, replaced battery but didn't fix, towed to mechanic
  • Sat for a few days, car ran normally for mechanic, they assumed fuel line just had air bubble, took it home
  • Cut out on drive home (after approx. 5km), wouldn't start but got code P2293
  • Had cracked N276 + the code so replaced HPFP and it started
  • Ran for longer (10km or so) but cut out again on drive home
  • P2293 code gone but new code P310B, so replaced G410 sensor, car started and ran
  • Got even further this time (about 20km) but cut out once again
  • P310B came back so replaced fuel tank pump and fuel pump control module
  • This time didn't run. P310B is gone but still wont start.
  • Previously it had occasionally started properly for 3-4 seconds and then died, but this now rarely happens (still sometimes though).
  • When it starts it runs perfectly, so I doubt any timing issues.
Known good parts:
  • Fuel Tank Pump - Replaced (tested at 6.something bar with pressure gauge so fuel filter also fine)
  • Fuel Pump Control Module - Replaced
  • G410 Low Pressure Fuel Sensor - Replaced
  • High Pressure Fuel Pump (inc. N276 valve) - Replaced
  • HPFP Cam Follower - Replaced (looked fine before replacing)
  • Battery - Replaced (and voltage tested good)
  • Spark Plugs - Replaced
  • Coil Packs - Replaced
Only other reported code was something about the PCV system/purge valve but I can't remember, I didn't write it down as I assumed it was just due to messing around with the PCV hoses when testing things. Could be a clue but I'm very unsure about it. Could a vacuum leak cause an issue like this?
I'm pretty much at the end of my diagnostic ability, the car is sitting on the side of the road 30min away from my house so I'll probably have to get it towed soon. If anyone has an idea for other things I should test/replace before that happens then please let me know, I'm not strapped for cash by any means but the time and money I've spent on this is really starting to get to me. Any help is very appreciated.
One thing I would test. With your car at home, start it and let it run in place for maybe an hour. See if the engine cuts out after the car warms up to operating temps. If so, try to start the car again, if it does not start, then let the car cool down for 5-6 hours, then try to start the car again. If it does start and run when cold, then you could have a bad crank position sensor.
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