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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At third repair dealer had replaced driver seat, back seat, and safety belts. Header seals replaced a few times. They suggest selling. I'd rather get it repaired but need an expert that can really fix it. Can anyone recomend someone in NJ? I am moving to AZ where its mainly sunny. Or is it better to sell and spare more headaches?
 

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In the US, if you take a car into a garage to "repair xxxxx" and they don't do it..........do you still pay?
 

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Buy a decent car cover until the problem is solved? Replacing roof seals on an EOS doesn't guarantee the repair or fix that many might think. In fact, the opposite - it can make things worse! There's a tonne of alignment procedure checks and hosepipe testing that needs doing. If there's misalignment of roof parts (within 1mm!!) to begin with which isn't checked for, changing seals will do nothing. It sounds like you have had a garage working on your car who have the 'replace to fix' mindset and not a V.W EOS trained roof technician following the correct and detailed repair procedures?
 

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Header seals replaced a few times? Sounds as if they do not know what they're doing.
 
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I know this sounds like a simple thing the dealer should have done but did they clean the drains?
I recently had a leak and all they did was clean the drains and so far, no more leaking!!
 

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It's a good point, but after any roof seal work on an EOS, V.W service instructions say the car must be tested for seal leaks and they put quite a lot of information in the service manual. Not only are there recommendations for simple hosepipe testing, but also the use of ultrasonic and other leak testing methods.

If the car has been at the dealer four times for leaks, I would ask what testing was done on each occasion and what were the results? If drains were blocked it wouldn't have passed the tests. I've often said that if EOS roof seals are sealing, no water should enter the drain channels anyway. Open the sunroof, lay some strips of dry newspaper in the channels, close the sunroof and hose over the top. Carefully dry off the outer roof and seals then when dry open the sunroof. If the newspaper strips are wet, the seals are leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a good point, but after any roof seal work on an EOS, V.W service instructions say the car must be tested for seal leaks and they put quite a lot of information in the service manual. Not only are there recommendations for simple hosepipe testing, but also the use of ultrasonic and other leak testing methods.

If the car has been at the dealer four times for leaks, I would ask what testing was done on each occasion and what were the results? If drains were blocked it wouldn't have passed the tests. I've often said that if EOS roof seals are sealing, no water should enter the drain channels anyway. Open the sunroof, lay some strips of dry newspaper in the channels, close the sunroof and hose over the top. Carefully dry off the outer roof and seals then when dry open the sunroof. If the newspaper strips are wet, the seals are leaking.
Will talk to mechanic hopefully tomorrow. This mechanic has worked and fixed Eos roof leaks before. He has received assistance from VWs master mechanic. The dealership is by the beach so they do work on convertibles. Can dealership refuse to keep fixing? Work is guaranteed. Has anyone run into dealer not fixing and getting some kind of refund? Or do they have to continue working on it since work is guaranteed?
 

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Since I've never had EOS roof work done by others and guaranteed, I'll share my unbiased opinion:

Most cabriolets will get some kind of leak, it's inevitable when you have a roof that relies on many long seals to keep out water. Most insurance policies exclude investigation and solving seal leak problems. You can assume the work is time and labor intensive, expensive and can have an uncertain outcome.

Most Dealers are independent trading businesses and not V.W owned. 'Goodwill' sometimes offered costing you something or nothing can be negotiated with V.W but returns on work done is probably paid for with their own liability insurance or covered by V.W. You are lucky if your Dealer will try to solve your leak problem a second time. If they refuse, it's probably because their liability insurance won't cover their costs for an uncertain outcome of you keep coming back again - and again.

When somebody brings an EOS roof in with leaks without previous history, workshops don't know if there's been any damage or events causing twisting of the roof frame. The worst scenario is a roof that leaks sometimes when closed and not others or sometimes after a roof open and close operation. Even with a perfectly aligned roof, finding and stopping leaks is tricky work and unlikely to be fixed by a dealer on the phone to the mothership. A V.W master mechanic may not be EOS roof trained, even though they can access information. Roof leak investigation is a hands on job by people with actual EOS roof repair training. Long lasting solutions over the phone or internet are unlikely. All said, if a dealer mechanic claims to be good at fixing EOS roof leaks and can't, then either they can't get information from V.W to do it, or lack the special EOS roof skills and experience from training to get it right.

The only real cast iron warranty you can expect from a Dealer is when they fit a new roof because it comes from the crate in perfect condition with no damage, new seals and assembled at Webasto on their factory jigs. When you do your own maintenance like many here, you learn a lot about leaks, why and where they occur and how to fix them. But there isn't a magic formula or simple approach that fixes every leak possibility. Don't think replacing seals will always solve a leak problem, unless surface damage, tears, or lack of compliance are clearly visible. MY07 still has original seals and doesn't leak 'at the moment', although I've had small leaks which I've successfully nailed.

Unfortunately, most workshops jump to replacing seals without realising there are (undocumented?) procedures to getting the roof parts aligned correctly to make new seals work. This thread mentioned 'header' seals. If they mean the roof top section seals, then this is a disaster area to enter, because the shop manual lacks (in my opinion) important information. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that if after replacing those seals, the roof still leaked, the customer was to be told they needed a new roof! That's a load of cr*p because IMHO the service method seems to leave out important information. Replacing most EOS roof seals without Webasto factory assembly jigs carries a risk that leaks may be worse than before! IMHO If a dealer mechanic isn't using a hosepipe, vernier and feeler gauges, they haven't had enough experience with EOS roof leak tracing and repairs. I hope you have better luck with your next Dealer visit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Voxmagna thanks for the reply. I spoke to mechanic. Its been raining and he says the leak is coming from "Apiller where meets header seal. Left side beam." This wasn"t apparent before with standard water hose tests performed and outside weather conditions. I asked about sun roof and drains. Both fine. The last time he replaced header seal because they were replaced front seat, back bench and safety belts due to mold and wanted to ensure all clean and new. About 8k worth There was a lot of mold since it was sitting outside. He gave me vw customer service number to see if they"ll give me any funds back since it hasn"t been repaired successfully. Dealer would give me $4500. The car has 50k miles, interior great shape now as seats new. I would like it repaired if possible. The mechanic doesn't know what else he could do. Any suggestions with apiller repair?
 

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A pillar leaks can be easy to solve but there are different causes. Most common is the hose connection behind the A pillar trim (see link to my post #51). Second is blocked front drains, third damage to the rubber teat that aligns into the A pillars and finally an issue with the end seals not mating with the roof top sections.

However, this last issue isn't the most likely problem everbody goes to first. The sunroof sealing is weakest on the front and rear corners where it seems to easily deform- check for gaps with thin paper or a feeler gauge. The easiest path for water is not over the top painted sections at the front, but down between the top seals where it has to get away via the drains. Drains are the last resort and shouldn't be relied on. Check and ensure there are no gaps around the sunroof seals first! A leak may seem to come from the A pillar when it actually comes from the top of the front window glass not sealing when in the raised position. Result is the same, wet knees and carpets.

This thread mentioned 'header' seals
I said this is very tricky for a non-EOS roof trained tech. They could have left gaps between seals sealing the sunroof and also the rear fixed panel? Also, Inside that complex assembly there is a long thin strip of flimsy material used for some kind of water deflection, which could be important and easy to ignore? I couldn't find what I was expecting to find in the shop manual and had to be creative, I doubt whether a general mechanic would either? There's a lot of reading to do in the attached thread. I only endorse my own solution which fixes one common problem forever starting at post #51. But if as I suspect, they have removed the long top roof sections, they now need to check for friction between pairs of roof seals on both sides and work out how to get it right. After all, they are trained, charge a lot for their work and do have the V.W mothership to phone, unlike me.
 
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