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Discussion Starter #1
hello.
I bought a vw eos 2009 with 72K miles on it from copart. The engine makes a rattling sound and the check engine light is one. Replaced the spark plugs and motor oil and filters.
My mechanics say i might need a new motor.
Is it true or is there any other small fix? If so how much would it cost? Where can I possibly get one? Can I use the Jetta Engine?
 

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Trust your mechanic who has 'eyes on'. If the PO didn't put oil in it or get it regularly serviced and you didn't do careful checks before buying, you could have some serious engine problems. People don't usually sell perfect cars and the cheaper they are the greater the risk. Caveat Emptor.
 

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Since you haven't really described your rattle much, let us dismiss the motor for the moment. Other than the rattle how does it run otherwise? There has been some reports of noisy timing chains and issues with the chain tensioners. If the check engine light is on go to you local Auto Zone or Advance Auto or similar and have them give you an error code read out (which is free). May give you other things to check. A bad engine is something you want to look at as last resort. If you go to another engine, one from a GTI or GLI would be the closet match. Others would be down on horsepower and you are never sure of the condition of a used engine. An Audi 2.0 might also be useable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you so much for your replies.
I have the engine codes.
P0010
U0415
P0328
P0011
 

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P0341 is a cam sensor error. May need replaced, may not be the rattle issue. The Timing chain tensioner had a recall. check on line to find if it it still valid. If the timing chain fails you will eat an engine. It will rattle especially when first started up. At least have it checked. The error codes you can look up on line.
 

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Why was it sold through Copart? People sell cars through Copart for a reason, a lot of the time its obvious (because there's crash or flood damage etc) but if its an unrecorded crash or no visible damage, or whatever, then you need to dig deeper into why its through Copart. Was it listed with mechanical damage? Runner or non runner?
 

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Those codes relate to cam/crank timing (as mentioned above) and it was a common fault on these engines for the tensioner to fail and slip the timing. It probably has valve (or worse) damage but you might be lucky and just have the tensioner/chain/etc to replace. I am guessing you are paying a mechanic to do it, not DIY here. I am surprised you bought it because the retail value - repair cost is probably -ve (if using a mechanic), if you were conservative with the possible repair costs?
 

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That fault would definitely cause a mechanic with eyes on and ears listening to think it needs a new engine if they thought the rattle was pistons hitting valves. I suppose it does run and has mechanical damage, but probably not for long? I wonder what the oil pressure is doing and if there are metal fragments in the sump? Diagnostics should be able to show how far out the valve timing actually is whilst the engine can still run.

In times past when owners were more savvy, got their hands dirty and factory new half engines were not available, these things and even a grenaded engine could be repaired. Being savvy means you can at least tear down a suspect bad engine to find out what if any damage has ocurred before making a final decision. But now for most DIYers trying to fix their cars with a Smartphone, there are many (expensive) obstacles doing a repair. The best option is to get positive confirmation on condition of the engine mechanics and what's wrong, sell the car 'as a runner with mechanical damage' or take a chance putting in a used donor engine if you want a DIY project and have the skills. Paying a mechanic to do most of this work will probably cost more than the car. A savvy mechanic or buyer would probably not touch a car sold in this condition.
 
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