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Discussion Starter #1
Working on a customers' car, roof would not operate, trunk would not open. Figured out how to manually manipulate the trunk and roof, gave up on repairing the roof after we realized that someone else had been in there, and removed the Front Left bracket for the rear glass section to get it to close 'properly'... There was also other fiddling with the left side mechanism, unfortunately this customer does not have the money to devote to making it right.

So, the problems that remain and stop this from being a usable car are;

1) Can't open the trunk with the remote, or the mechanism on the trunk lid, Only by the emergency release cable. I hear no servo function, we replaced the trunk latch as it would no longer open by emergency release in center of back seat.

2) Sunroof will not fully seal, is stuck in vent mode. If I operate it from fully open, it will not close Unless I operate it about a second at a time, and wait about 20 inbetween each use. Nothing seems to affect the state of the sunroof. The only roof-related code is 02805, which is there because that bracket for the rear glass is removed. It coincidentally holds a sensor in place, which is of course now dangling...

3) Upon doing a scan with VCDS, Central Electrics (Body Control Moldule) Shows there is a fault once I do a body-wide scan, but once I go into it, there is no code; therefore, perhaps the BCM has fried with all these other problems? With it being Unlikely the roof will revive, I hate to buy one without some guarantee that it would be worth the effort...

4) Driver's door glass will not drop with the door opening, no code there.



I apologize for the laundry list, not as familiar with these cars as I might be to be helpful... Let me know how I can help you, to help me...

Thanks,

Dave
 

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With regards the door glass have you tried putting all windows down at same time then back up at same time, it's a regular occurance with mine, or even disconnect battery. Trunk lock I recently had this issue with mine, it suffers with damp in the boot so the wiring connector went rusty and a pin snapped off.

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There seems to be so many diverse issues there probably won't be one easy simple single solution. There are a zillion reasons others have had faults most of which are searchable here. Where to start? Well I do know there are key functions required by the roof that should still work even if you disconnected the roof control module completely, but take precautions to avoid 'trunk lockout'. You can also carefully check the roof controller plugs and connectors for water damage/corrosion (search here for Gremlins). If some basic functions are not working the roof operation will not start, get these things working first with or without the roof controller:

1. The windows should still go up and down smoothly on the driver windows switches. Drop down should work when a door is opened, the electric front door locking should work on the remote.

2. The sunroof should open and close normally on the sunroof switch, but won't go to the fully back extended position without roof control working. If there is an issue with the sunroof, it's motor, or cables and it will not 'calibrate', you won't get roof op.

3. The trunk top solenoid lock should still be heard to operate, but the pull down motor will not work if the roof controller is disconnected for testing/fault finding. If the roof controller its plugs and wiring are o.k, the rear lid lock and pull down should operate when the lid is closed.

If you can open the trunk lid with the emergency pull wire at the moment, the roof locks are all on and no roof parts can be moved manually. But at least the car should be safe to drive and the roof will not fly open. It also suggests the pull down motor has left the roller in the low position (when it should be raised for an open lid?). If the roller was in the raised position, the trunk release wire probably wouldn't work! It sounds first off as though there's a power, wiring or parts problem with the upper lock which is controlled by the 'Convenience Module' you call BCM. You can remove the upper lock assembly fairly easily to inspect and test it out of the car. Similarly, you can do the same thing for the lower pull down assembly but that needs some undocumented instructions to test. If I prove these are both o.k I would then move to testing if the control signals are getting to them and power is present.

Once you get these working then move on to the roof. Diagnostic scans for the roof and sunroof only give a couple of high level faults. The controllers need to know all roof parts are in the right place before they allow a roof start operation on the switch. This means parts must have returned to either a closed or open roof situation before key on. If the sunroof is faulty and not opening (or closing) from its normally closed 'learned' position or is partly open because it never closed, the sunroof learned position is wrong or it could be seized and will never learn the correct fully closed position.

Vcds diagnostics for the EOS roof mostly reports errors with the 12 or 13 parts position sensors and some errors with the pump. There is very little diagnostics feedback for the sunroof. If the roof controller finds all parts sensors in the correct position at key on, no errors will be reported. There is a simple check that the pump is connected (fuse o.k) or not shorted, but nothing else until the pump runs. You could use vcds to check all the roof sensors are in the correct 'ready to start' positions?

The trunk pull down and locking must all prove at key on and work correctly before a roof operation is allowed, because remote control trunk locking/unlocking is a key function. Trunk pull down works through the roof control module.

With this mixture of faults 'Trunk lid lockout' can easily happen -read about it here. As a precaution, temporarily remove the chrome hoops inside the trunk lid and pin the upper lock latch to keep it open, particularly if you disconnect the roof controller. Don't be tempted to operate the roof until you confirm the pull down can be heard to operate when the lid is put down, the top lock section 'clunks' and all windows and sunroof are working normally.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I may follow up with the Saga that is this car...

Central Electrics Module (09) has a code of 0010 when doing a full scan, go into that module, no codes. I see some details about that perhaps the Gateway has a problem, that I Might recode that and it will clear up. However, since I can not open the trunk with the button or the remote still, I Wonder if that module may be the issue?

Also, weird things going on with the door windows. Passenger window drops with key removal from ignition. Tried to reprogram pinch protection for both doors, drivers door began to Not function as it should have, and passenger window does not operate from passenger door.


Anyone see any connected problems? Sorry for the ramble, this car is a bit overwhelming so far.
 

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You might get some ideas from this:
The fault codes coming from diagnostics don't always tell you what a fault actually is, often that something isn't right as other modules expect. If you have no experience and want to start changing things you could get lost, fall into a black hole and make things worse for yourself.

Since there seems to be no connected faults you could have a CAN control or communication problem. Logical fault finding approach or the internet doesn't work well for random fault symptoms. I haven't needed to try this because it involves pulling the car apart: When you physically unplug a low level 'comfort/convenience' module, the Gateway module should always fault to 'module not found' or 'missing'. That in itself is confirmation the Gateway is programmed to find it. But if a bunch of previously reported errors suddenly go away, then you might suspect the last module you disconnected?

Low level CANbus for all these simpler comfort/convenience modules is done on a single wire referenced to ground. One faulty module, bad buss connections or ground can produce garbage or corrupt message data. Professional Canbus diagnostics tools in the hands of an experienced Canbus technician can be used to look at data but this is probably way outside your comfort zone. There are some simpler steps like peeking at the bus line for voltage or pulse shaping errors, then looking for translation data errors but this will be a bridge too far for most.

I hope you did a full scan of all modules and saved the results before messing with any coding? Have all these faults just occurred or has somebody messed up the coding? The big advantage a V.W dealer has is they can look up the original factory build data for the VIN and check each module is the correct type and correctly coded. If you can't do that and have no previous history of what might have been messed with or changed in the past, you are fault finding blind.
 
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