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Discussion Starter #1
I had the window regulator go up in the driver's side door. I replaced the regulator and I had issues with the windows not going up. turns out that the larger grey connector with the purple leaver needed to be reseeded several times. Now that the windows all work, the lock on the driver's side does not work via the door actuator nor the remote. I can lock the car via the remote, get the beep but I can still open the driver's side door. when i do the alarm goes off. Does anyone have any ideas as to what can be the issue?
 

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Check that the Bowden cable for the inner door handle is seated properly. If it isn't, then it's possible that the door will latch shut, but the release won't be completely closed so the door will fail to lock.

Check the other electrical connectors on the door control module as well. The big grey one is a pain - you need to flip the purple lever all the way open before pushing it down - but the other connectors have red locking tabs on IIRC, and they need to all be in the right place too.
 

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turns out that the larger grey connector with the purple leaver needed to be reseeded several times.
That connector is an expensive DISASTER waiting to happen because people remove the door card and don't stick supports under it as they fiddle about trying to disconnect the plug. I posted a how to here to remove the EOS door cards and warned about using supports under the cards and being careful disconnecting the plug. I spent an hour solder splicing an extra 250mm of wire to all the wires in the loom so I wouldn't hang the card off it again and get my hands easily around to the plug.

There are 2 issues. The connector has many fine pins which can bend and break as you huff and puff trying to mate it. You will have to remove the plug and carefully check every single pin is straight and not bent or broken. The double whammy is a pin can bend and break off leaving it inside the other half. Unless you are careful to spot a pin in the row is missing, you may not notice something is wrong. Check all the switch functions on the door card because most of everything goes to that connector. If you had removed the connector when you first tried to mate it and it didn't feel right you might have been lucky and had a bent pin that just might have straightened once only. but once a pin is bent, forcing it just makes matters worse if it breaks. Your eyes on the end of the connector will tell you what's happened.

The second issue concerns the locking lever. Yes, that thin skimpy blue/gray cradle thingy is the very important locking lever for the connector shell when mated. When the connector is correctly seated the small holes in the locking bar should line up. They are there to pass a thin wire through to stop the locking bar lifting up, although V.W don't use it. As you roll it back and up, it is supposed to help lift up the plug. If the plug is in hard, this locking lever can easily break. Without it the connector can vibrate loose and may come out. All these bad things happen when people hang the door card off the loom or haven't been warned to take special care with their bad choice of connector type. I have 25 pin PC printer connectors with larger stronger pins than what V.W used in that location. When you replace the plug you must first lift up the locking lever, carefully insert the plug absolutely in line with the socket and whilst gently doing it, roll over the locking lever until the connector is right in and the small lever holes are in perfect planetary alignment. The plugs aku mentions with the red locking tabs are much more robust and you are unlikely to damage those.

If you are lucky aku will have steered you towards a simple solution. If you are unlucky and find you have damaged the connector pins, you will come back for a solution and I don't know what that is. The important locking bar is on the door side connector and the plug is on the card loom. V.W aren't that good at listing small replacement parts. I hope you get lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So i checked and the Bowden cable for the inner door handle looks to be seated properly. Unless I am seeing a mistake as seated properly, it looks good. Any visuals as to what I should look for
 

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You haven't confirmed the advice given in my previous post and that's probably the first 'visual' you need to take a close 'look' at. As with any fault finding over the internet, anybody offering help is blind to what you are seeing, doing or not doing. If you can't come back and confirm what you were asked to check, how can anybody take your problem further without wasting time?

At some point you will be advised to have a diagnostics scan done because if you can't methodically check the simple things or find your own self inflicted faults, plugging in a diagnostics tool and interpreting the results may be the best way for you? Presumably the car worked ok at some time and now it sounds as though you have caused more problems and only you can know exactly what you have done?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When removing the door card, I did not let it hang. I had a second set of hands as to not let it hang or even rock backwards to pull on any cable. The male connector pins all look fine, none bent or broke. The female side took good, nothing inside them, loose or pushed out. All the switches on the door card work though as part of the issue, when locking the door - the driver's side does not lock but the passenger's side works. The lever looks to align up. there are photos of that on this site. As aku stated: Check that the Bowden cable for the inner door handle is seated properly. It seems to be seated properly but if it is not, I don't know what that looks like.
My apologies for not confirming the advice given.
 

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Even if the Bowden cable was not coupled up correctly, the lock motors should still be heard and seen working and you said the door switches work but these only work on one lock & not the second deadlock which is only locked with the remote. You can check that by sitting in the car with a window down and operate the cabin lock switch, you should be able to pull the release and open the door. However, if you sit in the car with ignition off and lock it with the fob (and before the alarm goes off), you should not be able to open the door. That confirms that both the normal lock and (safe) deadlock are both working. You can dumb test wires from each lock motor back to the connectors. Or you can find the connector pins for the lock motors and test their resistance. If there's no resistance, either the wires are damaged or the lock motor is faulty? If the resistance is o.k you are left with the door controller module, assuming all connector pins are straight and undamaged. I haven't got a wiring diagram in front of me at the moment, but the lock motor assemblies may have switches which feed back to the controller?

The problem you have is there's not much length of wiring loom to do live tests with the driver side door card loose and it's very easy to stretch it and damage a connector. They give you a bit more loom on the passenger side and there's less wiring.
 
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