6 times in the past 1-1/2 months, my car battery has drained so that the car wouldn't start. Just click, click, click when I put the key in the ignition. Dealer hasn't been able to figure out the problem. I'm trying to keep a diary of how I'm using the car and what happens, but wondered if anyone else had a similar issue?
2012 Eos Battery Problems
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Read my last post here:
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3683&highlight=battery
Fault find it yourself or give the dealer a kicking and get them to read my post. If they don't understand what they are doing, find a competent dealership or auto electrician.
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3683&highlight=battery
Fault find it yourself or give the dealer a kicking and get them to read my post. If they don't understand what they are doing, find a competent dealership or auto electrician.
It's not a battery problem, per VW
VW is telling me that the battery is fine, that the alternator is fine. In fact, they gave me back the car "without fixing anything" on Saturday at 11 am. By 2 pm, my car was dead again. I got a jump from VW Roadside Assistance and drove back to the dealer. When I got there, they couldn't start it either. And yet, this morning, when I talked to the Service Manager, he just reiterated that there were no codes and so they didn't know what to fix.
VW is telling me that the battery is fine, that the alternator is fine. In fact, they gave me back the car "without fixing anything" on Saturday at 11 am. By 2 pm, my car was dead again. I got a jump from VW Roadside Assistance and drove back to the dealer. When I got there, they couldn't start it either. And yet, this morning, when I talked to the Service Manager, he just reiterated that there were no codes and so they didn't know what to fix.
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I would suggest contacting VW Customer assist and complain. The dealer needs retraining or something. The dealer should be looking for more than codes. The battery could be bad having a cell going bad or a flaky internal connection. Is the problem heat related? If not, have the dealer run a current draw test with the car off. Early models had a similar problem. Turned out to be a nav system problem. Could also be one of the items suggested in the previously provided link. If all fails try a different dealer. Yours seems to be looking for the easy answer. If you have access to a voltmeter, test the battery voltage next time the car won't start. The voltage should be about 12.6 volts or higher. If the voltage is under 12 volts, the battery is likely bad. It could also indicate your battery is being drained by some excessive parasitic current drain. One other thing. Watch for a loose or bad battery cable.
No Nav System - but thanks!
Good to hear that early models had similar issues, though I don't have a nav system. They made the mistake of sending me a survey for the last service, and I gave them bad marks. One of the options was to have VW Assistance respond, so I checked that. I'll give them a day or so to get in touch with me, or I will get in touch with them. I appreciate the support that "The dealer should be looking for more than codes." I completely agree.
Good to hear that early models had similar issues, though I don't have a nav system. They made the mistake of sending me a survey for the last service, and I gave them bad marks. One of the options was to have VW Assistance respond, so I checked that. I'll give them a day or so to get in touch with me, or I will get in touch with them. I appreciate the support that "The dealer should be looking for more than codes." I completely agree.
None of this is rocket science and a dealer tech. needs a kicking or retraining.
When you have the fault present, that is the time to make careful proper logical checks.
If I was the dealer and you had your car brought to me still dead I would measure the battery voltage first whilst the car was dead and without disconnecting or moving anything. If the battery voltage was up at around 12 volts I would open a door and see if the interior lights and instruments came on (low load test). If yes, then I would try the starter whilst my voltmeter was still connected. If no start but battery volts stayed at around 12 I would turn on the headlights (a bit higher load). If the starter still did not turn over and the battery voltage was still at around 12v I would conclude there was most likely an intermittent fault with the battery connector, chassis ground or the starter relay circuit.
If the battery voltage was close to zero volts I would suspect either a dead battery or a load which had flattened it. I might give the battery a couple of careful whacks with the voltmeter still connnected and see if the volts came up (internal battery fault).
The best chance you have of solving the problem is when the fault is there. But if they go off re-charging and load testing the battery straight away, then valuable info about your fault is just trashed. It is not uncommon to get a bad/intermittent ground connection where the battery negative wire is bolted to the chassis. If that bolted connection is corroded, all looks good at the battery and even low loads like lights work. But the starter cannot get its current.
If there are no fault codes then that looks more like a battery circuit fault.
When you have the fault present, that is the time to make careful proper logical checks.
If I was the dealer and you had your car brought to me still dead I would measure the battery voltage first whilst the car was dead and without disconnecting or moving anything. If the battery voltage was up at around 12 volts I would open a door and see if the interior lights and instruments came on (low load test). If yes, then I would try the starter whilst my voltmeter was still connected. If no start but battery volts stayed at around 12 I would turn on the headlights (a bit higher load). If the starter still did not turn over and the battery voltage was still at around 12v I would conclude there was most likely an intermittent fault with the battery connector, chassis ground or the starter relay circuit.
If the battery voltage was close to zero volts I would suspect either a dead battery or a load which had flattened it. I might give the battery a couple of careful whacks with the voltmeter still connnected and see if the volts came up (internal battery fault).
The best chance you have of solving the problem is when the fault is there. But if they go off re-charging and load testing the battery straight away, then valuable info about your fault is just trashed. It is not uncommon to get a bad/intermittent ground connection where the battery negative wire is bolted to the chassis. If that bolted connection is corroded, all looks good at the battery and even low loads like lights work. But the starter cannot get its current.
If there are no fault codes then that looks more like a battery circuit fault.
Not the battery but the starter
Just to keep this thread up to date, I thought I'd let everyone know that the problem is apparently the starter, not the battery. After my complaining bitterly to the dealer about their quality of service, they suggested having the service rep drive my car as if it were her own for a few days. She did that, following the pattern that I had documented the last time the car had died, of three short trips after one relatively long one. The car died on her, so lo and behold, it wasn't just me! When I asked how she "diagnosed" the problem, she told me the dashboard lit up and the car went click, click, click. You'll note that was what I started this thread describing. I had also sent a video of exactly that the last time the car died.
To be fair, I had originally thought the problem might be related to the convertible roof as it happened most often it seemed when I used either the sunroof or the convertible top. And that was apparently a rabbit hole the dealer went down.
I am frustrated, however, because it seems as though they didn't ask me the right diagnostic questions. Maybe there's not an easy way to do that, but it seems that my saying the car "just went click, click, click" when I tried to start it, didn't register as the same thing as when the service rep experienced it.
Anyway, they are replacing the starter, but keeping the car for a few more days to test-drive and ensure this is really the solution to the problem. I'll post again once I have a final resolution, i.e., I have my car back and it doesn't die on me in the near future.
Just to keep this thread up to date, I thought I'd let everyone know that the problem is apparently the starter, not the battery. After my complaining bitterly to the dealer about their quality of service, they suggested having the service rep drive my car as if it were her own for a few days. She did that, following the pattern that I had documented the last time the car had died, of three short trips after one relatively long one. The car died on her, so lo and behold, it wasn't just me! When I asked how she "diagnosed" the problem, she told me the dashboard lit up and the car went click, click, click. You'll note that was what I started this thread describing. I had also sent a video of exactly that the last time the car died.
To be fair, I had originally thought the problem might be related to the convertible roof as it happened most often it seemed when I used either the sunroof or the convertible top. And that was apparently a rabbit hole the dealer went down.
I am frustrated, however, because it seems as though they didn't ask me the right diagnostic questions. Maybe there's not an easy way to do that, but it seems that my saying the car "just went click, click, click" when I tried to start it, didn't register as the same thing as when the service rep experienced it.
Anyway, they are replacing the starter, but keeping the car for a few more days to test-drive and ensure this is really the solution to the problem. I'll post again once I have a final resolution, i.e., I have my car back and it doesn't die on me in the near future.
You now have a result, although it took them a while to get there. As I posted, once you eliminate the battery by testing it when the fault occurs, that leaves the starter, relay or wiring.
Most would go for the relay first because starters are fairly reliable these days and should last several years without trouble. But some modern starters can have more electronic complexity, switches inside, or an externally mounted relay. If a starter has more than one large electrical connection, then it is too complex for its own good.
Most would go for the relay first because starters are fairly reliable these days and should last several years without trouble. But some modern starters can have more electronic complexity, switches inside, or an externally mounted relay. If a starter has more than one large electrical connection, then it is too complex for its own good.
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6 Posts
Was the starter the problem of this battery issue?
I know it's been 5 yrs since posting. I posted on another but that one didn't have a remedy. I am having same issues as it seems as you and many others.
I got an 07 Eos 2.0t year for winter ride with this issue and been trying to figure it out the whole time!
I know it's been years, but I am having this issue as well.
I went through all the fuses to no effect.
I had a good battery when I bought it.
I went with a Walmart brand EverStart EverStart Maxx Lead Acid Automotive Battery, Group H6
I have gone through 2 of these battery's now in the past 6 months. I have a quick disconnect on battery now and a jump pack called NOCO Genius GB40 Boost Jump Lithium Battery Charger
I also had to buy from Walmart a jump pack called Schumacher Electric SL1327 Schumacher 800 Amp Lithium Booster that wouldn't even jump the car is battery was completely dead or if was cold out during winter! So returned it and used money to buy Noco off ebay for $50 bucks!
Best $50 I've ever spent lol.
The Noco I can get about 10 jumps before figuring I better charge it up. Just crazy how good it works and how small it is as well. I have it where the original manual I think sits on the top of glove box.
But if you guys are still around and figured it out can you please respond so can get mine fixed please!
I'm going to post of other sites too, I have to figure this out. Sick of having to disconnect battery if leaving it sit for a day or 2!
Thanks very much with any knowledge you my have!
I know it's been 5 yrs since posting. I posted on another but that one didn't have a remedy. I am having same issues as it seems as you and many others.
I got an 07 Eos 2.0t year for winter ride with this issue and been trying to figure it out the whole time!
I know it's been years, but I am having this issue as well.
I went through all the fuses to no effect.
I had a good battery when I bought it.
I went with a Walmart brand EverStart EverStart Maxx Lead Acid Automotive Battery, Group H6
I have gone through 2 of these battery's now in the past 6 months. I have a quick disconnect on battery now and a jump pack called NOCO Genius GB40 Boost Jump Lithium Battery Charger
I also had to buy from Walmart a jump pack called Schumacher Electric SL1327 Schumacher 800 Amp Lithium Booster that wouldn't even jump the car is battery was completely dead or if was cold out during winter! So returned it and used money to buy Noco off ebay for $50 bucks!
Best $50 I've ever spent lol.
The Noco I can get about 10 jumps before figuring I better charge it up. Just crazy how good it works and how small it is as well. I have it where the original manual I think sits on the top of glove box.
But if you guys are still around and figured it out can you please respond so can get mine fixed please!
I'm going to post of other sites too, I have to figure this out. Sick of having to disconnect battery if leaving it sit for a day or 2!
Thanks very much with any knowledge you my have!
Similar thread discussion any my reply here:
https://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=230610#post230610
Unfortunately investigating current draw isn't something easy to do and may be best left to an auto electrical technician if you don't have the skills or patience to work through the steps. We would all like a one stop solution like change the battery, but that's not a solution if the drain is in the vehicle.
You said you checked all the fuses but don't say what you did?
If you can understand my post and work pedantically through the steps you should get a result. Note my comment that removing fuses to measure current draw on individual circuits can give a misleading result. The driver door may be open and interior lights may be on? Another thing that can be missed is the alternator is connected directly to the battery without fuses and a problem in the alternator regulator or diode rectifier will only show up with a global test at the battery terminals.
Some have been swapping out convenience modules to be compatible with higher spec. radios. I tried this with a Chinese module and had current draw problems. I eventually I went back to the old controller and my CANbus went to sleep after about 3 minutes, which it should.
https://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=230610#post230610
Unfortunately investigating current draw isn't something easy to do and may be best left to an auto electrical technician if you don't have the skills or patience to work through the steps. We would all like a one stop solution like change the battery, but that's not a solution if the drain is in the vehicle.
You said you checked all the fuses but don't say what you did?
If you can understand my post and work pedantically through the steps you should get a result. Note my comment that removing fuses to measure current draw on individual circuits can give a misleading result. The driver door may be open and interior lights may be on? Another thing that can be missed is the alternator is connected directly to the battery without fuses and a problem in the alternator regulator or diode rectifier will only show up with a global test at the battery terminals.Some have been swapping out convenience modules to be compatible with higher spec. radios. I tried this with a Chinese module and had current draw problems. I eventually I went back to the old controller and my CANbus went to sleep after about 3 minutes, which it should.
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