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Hello all,

I currently have my second Eos, a 2011 Komfort that I purchased new and have tried to treat with TLC ever since. I would have updated but nothing newer was available with a manual transmission.

This is now my "pleasure" car, which I don't drive every day. It has about 65000 miles on it and has been pretty trouble free...until now.

Several days ago, the check engine light came on and I had it scanned today by my long-time mechanic. It needs a new intake manifold; he proposed cleaning the valves at the same time as they will be exposed and probably "carboned."

I would love to keep this car for a long time, but...it is apparent to me as an Eos owner since 2008, that most Eos deaths are due to roof failure, because the cost of replacement/repair is higher than the resale value of the car. I am kind of afraid to put the top down, thinking the next time may be the last. However, fearing to put the top down kind of invalidates the reason to own an Eos, right?

So, I'd appreciate the perspectives of others: should I do the $2,000 worth of repairs and continue to drive the car as I have since 2011, or try to get rid of it before it is worthless? Is there anything I can do to assess the condition of the roof retraction mechanism or any maintenance I can perform on it prophylactically?

I would welcome the thoughts of other Eos enthusiasts, because you will (or already have) the same perspective.

Thanks!
 

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I would love to keep this car for a long time, but...it is apparent to me as an Eos owner since 2008, that most Eos deaths are due to roof failure, because the cost of replacement/repair is higher than the resale value of the car. I am kind of afraid to put the top down, thinking the next time may be the last. However, fearing to put the top down kind of invalidates the reason to own an Eos, right?
In my time hanging around this forum I'd say that catastrophic roof failures are rare, and happen either due to crashes or people leaving things in the bits of the trunk where there shouldn't be things. Most issues (from memory) are around water ingress, followed by flaps and strings, and then the sunroof motor - none of which are major issues and all of which are relatively easily resolved.

But of course that doesn't tell you how many Eos owners there are out there who have never had roof issues - and that's a far more important picture than the number of stories you see on here.

In other words, don't worry about it - just enjoy it ;)
 

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Assuming the roof seals are regularly lubed with Krytox and the sunroof rack well greased as Aku-Aku says...Enjoy.
 

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I take a pragmatic view that if I get issues unrelated to the roof, I am in the same position as most other V.W car owners. In fact, because cars are now so electronically complex to manage their engines, most other brands have their own problems.

As for lower mileages, I am in that category and have changed some of my earlier ideas for my previous higher mileage cars. I don't use V.W spec. Long Life engine oils now and have reset the oil service reminder back to annual. I will change engine oil at 6k as I used to with my older Tdis. As aku-aku says, if you read about the EOS roof system here, lubricate regularly, don't do stupid things and watch its action every time, you should be o.k. Also read about trunk water leaks and do regular checks to keep the interior and trunk dry (remove the pump foam box!).

I haven't touched my older BMM Tdi but did have to remove the (plastic!) inlet manifold on a newer V.W common rail Tdi and was stunned by the amount of gunk and gum caused by the emissions recirculation system. $2k sounds a lot but I do my own work and labor these days costs a lot unless you go the DIY or the independent service shop route. This work should be straight forward for most shops familiar with V.W. engines.

You can buy a 'new to you' used car with expensive hidden faults so knowing history is an advantage, even though you have a repair to be done. I don't know much about it but apparently there is a clogged inlet and valve manifold fix which uses some kind of high pressure plastic bead blasting which can avoid a manifold teardown? I wouldn't trust spraying in some kind of cleaner for a permanent fix? Having seen and cleaned a bad TDi manifold manually, I prefer that method although it's not so easy to deal with the valves without removing the cylinder head.

The one bad thing that can cause pain and expense with low mileage age is the front wing rot problem. It may be too late for you now, but search and read my post.
 
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