I just finished installing the air filter in my 2008 EOS 2L Turbo. It was unbelievably difficult. I have never seen a worse design. Guess that is why it changed in later years.
First, thanks to whoever posted the photos on how to remove the engine cover. I can't remember where I found it. But I never could have done the job otherwise.
The air filter is under the engine cover. You need to loosen the two clamps on the hose in the back left (passenger side) of the cover. Then remove the two screws holding the sensor next to it. It is easier to remove the entire sensor than to try and pull the wire connector off. Then remove the air intake hose. The previous photos said to remove the two screws at the intake end of the hose. You may need to do that as well. But you still need to take the hose off the engine cover. Don't worry, yet, about what looks like hinged snaps on the back. They are part of the cover.
Next comes the hard part. The engine cover is held in pace by 4 pressure fitted rubber grommets that snap over metal posts on the engine. They are very tight. All you can do is push, pull, and bang on the cover to try and get it off those posts. At the same time you have to be very careful not to damage the expensive plastic cover. It was recommended to work the right (driver) side first which paid off.
Once you get the cover off check the rubber grommets. I had 3 out of 4 still stuck on the engine posts. Get them off and push them back on the engine cover. Make sure they are fully seated. It makes replacement of the engine cover very much easier.
Now you need to go around the inside of the cover and remove a bunch of screws. At least they did one thing right here and used captured screws in most places. I took the heat shield off the back and managed to drop one of those four into the engine compartment. It was essentially irretrievable without removed the bottom pan. So I just replaced it with a suitable sheet metal screw. Once everything is apart, the inner liner on the engine shield can be raised. This is where those hinged snaps that I mentioned earlier come into play. Now you can easily remove and replace the air filter. Then reverse the process to put everything back into place.
This was a long and arduous process. The maintenance manual says to do it at 60K and 120K miles. I thought I was good doing it at 40K miles. I think next time I will pay to have it done.
First, thanks to whoever posted the photos on how to remove the engine cover. I can't remember where I found it. But I never could have done the job otherwise.
The air filter is under the engine cover. You need to loosen the two clamps on the hose in the back left (passenger side) of the cover. Then remove the two screws holding the sensor next to it. It is easier to remove the entire sensor than to try and pull the wire connector off. Then remove the air intake hose. The previous photos said to remove the two screws at the intake end of the hose. You may need to do that as well. But you still need to take the hose off the engine cover. Don't worry, yet, about what looks like hinged snaps on the back. They are part of the cover.
Next comes the hard part. The engine cover is held in pace by 4 pressure fitted rubber grommets that snap over metal posts on the engine. They are very tight. All you can do is push, pull, and bang on the cover to try and get it off those posts. At the same time you have to be very careful not to damage the expensive plastic cover. It was recommended to work the right (driver) side first which paid off.
Once you get the cover off check the rubber grommets. I had 3 out of 4 still stuck on the engine posts. Get them off and push them back on the engine cover. Make sure they are fully seated. It makes replacement of the engine cover very much easier.
Now you need to go around the inside of the cover and remove a bunch of screws. At least they did one thing right here and used captured screws in most places. I took the heat shield off the back and managed to drop one of those four into the engine compartment. It was essentially irretrievable without removed the bottom pan. So I just replaced it with a suitable sheet metal screw. Once everything is apart, the inner liner on the engine shield can be raised. This is where those hinged snaps that I mentioned earlier come into play. Now you can easily remove and replace the air filter. Then reverse the process to put everything back into place.
This was a long and arduous process. The maintenance manual says to do it at 60K and 120K miles. I thought I was good doing it at 40K miles. I think next time I will pay to have it done.