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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got a 2008 Eos 2.0L Turbo with a factory Dynaudio system (original owner). I gather that the head unit is a BNO 881 (DVD Nav). I'm happy with the sound, but it has pretty old-school navigation software. I'm a daily user of Android Auto in my other car, and I've been wanting to upgrade the Eos for a while.

Key requirements for me are:
- Android Auto Support (highly prefer wireless). The Kenwood DMX906s is appealing.
- Low-to-no noise/hiss when volume setting is at normal level but no music is playing (i.e., when driving with music off, but Google Maps is giving periodic driving directions).
- Good sound. I'm not an audiophile, but I don't want to lose too much compared to the current setup.

I don't need CD/DVD or built-in Nav.

I'm no car audio expert - but I am an engineer, so I thought I'd take on the project myself. I took the plunge and - following Crutchfield's guide - bought an Alpine ILX-W650 head unit along with their recommended wiring harnesss (combination of: Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter; and Axxess XSVI-9003-NAV Interface Harness)

It's been a bit of a fiasco. I've learned a lot - but finally ended up returning everything. The steps I went through were:

1. Used recommended wiring kit. Literally smoked. Returned harness.

2. Purchased replacement harness recommended by Crutchfield tech support: RP4-VW11. I wired this (as advised) from the stereo speaker-level outputs into the Dynaudio Amp inputs. The result was noticable hissing, which I later learned was due to double-amplification. The audio volume also ramped very quickly. I've read that this is due to both the head unit and the Dynaudio amp amplifying the output. The latter occurs because the RP4-VW11 is also managing the gain of the Dynaudio Amp gain. So the gains multiply, i.e., 50% volume increase on the stereo gives: 1.5 stereo *1.5 dynaudio = 2.25 total gain. I also seemed to get distortion starting at much noticably volumes than with the factory stereo.

3. Crutchfield then recommended a line output converter (LOC) between the stereo and amp. They sent me a Scosche SLC4 LOC, which I installed. That seemed to help with the noise and peak volume, but the sound would cut out every few minutes. I could get sound back by switching the SLC4 setting from "Factory Amp" to "Line Out" and back - until it cut out again a few minutes later. Very weird. Crutchfield tech support was stumped. May have been a defective LOC.

4. On advice of Crutchfield, I cobbled together some RCA to speaker-wire converters to run the pre-amp stereo outputs (4 Volt) to the Dynaudio inputs. Got no sound at all out of the speakers. I've read conflicting information in various places that the pre-amp outputs are too low for the Dynaudio Amp input. I've sent a question out to Dynaudio tech support asking what their input requirements are, but I haven't heard back.

5. Sent the whole mess back to crutchfield while I re-group and plan next steps.

In case you're wondering, I do know how to solder, and I quadruple-checked the connections at each stage (plus verified wire matches with Crutchfield techs). I was on with tech support for a total of 8 hours or more.

I've read a ton and talked to a few car audio shops, and I see and hear a lot of different opinions, success stories and failure stories. I'm considering the approaches below.

Baseline components:
- Kenwood DMS906s
- RP4-VW11 interface

Options:
1. Try again with the amplified stereo outputs, using a new LOC
This assumes that the prior sound-cutout was due to a faulty LOC.
Cost: ~$1000
Pros: Cheaper option. Could do it myself and save $200 or so.
Cons: Likely non-linear volume. Multiple stages (amp/de-amp/amp). Unsure about noise levels I can expect with no music playing.

2. Try again with the pre-amp outputs, using RCA to dual/speaker wire adapters
Not sure if the higher 5V Kenwood pre-amp outputs will make a difference.
Cost:~$1000
Pros: Cheaper option. Could do it myself and save $200 or so. Likely more linear volume. Fewer stages to introduce noise.
Cons: May not get sufficient (or any) volume due to pre-amp voltage being too low.

3. Rip out the Dynaudio amp. Put in a new 4-5 channel amp with crossovers for the various speakers.
Cost: ~$2000
Pros: High probability of success. Best sound?
Cons: Double the cost. Would need professional installation (I don't think I'd try to do this myself).

I'm a bit hesitant about going with one of the first two options after my experiences to date. However, I'm not sure I want to spend the money for option 3.

I'd greatly appreciate any feedback that anyone could give me on these or other options (that satisfy my requirements). Has anyone had success or failure with any of these approaches?

Thanks!

Eric
 

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Since you have the Dynaudio setup you're more likely to have success with a VW head unit. Search on here for RCD330 to see if it's something for you - it has Android Auto and supports the Dynaudio amp. Assuming you put the stock head unit back and the Dynaudio sound is still working nicely and the third-party stuff didn't break anything!

Replacing the amplifier isn't that big a deal, assuming you can fit the replacement under the driver's seat where the existing amp goes. I retrofitted Dynaudio to my Eos and wrote a guide which refers to things like the amplifier pinouts you would need to know. You have 30A of power, four channels of audio input (from the speaker output connections on the head unit) and ten channels of output there, so fitting a different amplifier should be straightforward. The advantage of doing it yourself is you can do it non-destructively and use plugs to connect the new amp instead of snipping wires.
 

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DynAudio is not a friendly system in that it was designed around specific head units. It has 10 channels that matches up to 10 speakers. And the whole thing is tied into the CanBus system of the car. My suggestion is to leave it alone before it drives you nuts or have it done professionally. You could try a previous posters idea and go with another VW head unit. It may fit your needs or may not. I have read of people trying an aftermarket RCD-330 and not have good results. Research it thoroughly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick reply and bringing the RCD 330 to my attention! It's very appealing for it's drop-in simplicity and cost.

I've seen references to the RCD330 plus, but I thought it only supported Carplay (my original searches didn't find Android references). I looked again and I see that some of them at least support Android Auto. Do you know if all of them do? It's not included in the descriptions I see for units on sites like Aliexpress.

It looks like there are used and "new" units on Ebay, and I'm seeing the aforementioned units on Aliexpress. I'm hitting the sack, but I'll do more digging tomorrow.

Thanks again for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
DynAudio is not a friendly system in that it was designed around specific head units. It has 10 channels that matches up to 10 speakers. And the whole thing is tied into the CanBus system of the car. My suggestion is to leave it alone before it drives you nuts or have it done professionally. You could try a previous posters idea and go with another VW head unit. It may fit your needs or may not. I have read of people trying an aftermarket RCD-330 and not have good results. Research it thoroughly.
Thanks for the feedback. I am researching the RCD-330, as suggested. It seems like I would need a Noname RCD330 (plus) with the 187B or 187E model number to get Android Auto (with the 187B possibly requiring firmware update).

Puzzling through a few questions around:
- Whether or not there is a battery drain issue (requiring a module change) in my model year (2008). Some posts I've seen seem to suggest that the module change is required for cars before 2008, while others say 2009. I'm hoping the former is correct.
Module: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/AIDUAUTO-7N0907530AH-Canbus-Gateway-For-VW-Jetta-5-MK5-Golf-5-6-MK6-Touran-Octavia-7N0/523203_32864958354.html


Edit:
I believe that this adapter combines the functionality of the two above. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163833766386?ViewItem=&vxp=mtr&item=163833766386


Regards,

Eric
 

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Its not so much the model year 2008, but the specific part number and software revision of the CAN Gateway module. There is a list of CAN Gateways that cause battery drain issues with later stereos on the Ross-Tech website.

I have a 2008 model and its CAN Gateway is too old, it would need upgrading if I were to fit a more modern stereo. But I have an upgrade which is same era as the car, just better than what was standard. Its worse than yours! (I didn't bother with nav in the end).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you guys happen to have a list of CAN gateways that don't suffer from the battery leak? And/or how I determine what version I have? I'll start searching, but if you have it handy... ?
 

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07-08 US Eos had the drain issues with the DVD head unit. I believe a software issue fixed it. Didn't affect everyone and some came with the patch already. Have you checked the vwvortex forums? There were people there who tried what you want to do. Results are mixed but worth checking. Right now aku-aku seems to have the best answers. The steering wheel modules were mainly to use all the steering wheel control for full phone use and help with Bluetooth. I think you needed a module for that also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BTW, does the appropriate VW module solve both the battery drain issue and the steering wheel control issues? I assume so, since neither seen applicable post 2009.
 

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Do you guys happen to have a list of CAN gateways that don't suffer from the battery leak? And/or how I determine what version I have? I'll start searching, but if you have it handy... ?
See post #6

Version can be determined either by looking at the part number on the module itself or using a scan tool (capable of reading OEM VW diagnostics, not just OBD2). Using the scan tool will also show software version, if yours in one which works with an update (and drains the battery without the right software).
 

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Do you guys happen to have a list of CAN gateways that don't suffer from the battery leak? And/or how I determine what version I have? I'll start searching, but if you have it handy... ?
Here is the thread you need about the different versions of the CAN gateway.

As I write later in that thread, the easiest part number to look for is the one beginning 7N0.

That will solve the battery drain issue when you put later-model VW head units into an early Eos.

Here is a great Reddit post about the RCD330 which describes the issue around steering wheel controls. I believe that the RCD330 also does not work with the in-dash display on earlier Eos models - if you have the highline display it will be the red one that's not compatible; later models have the white display which is. But in that Reddit post is a mention of a potential solution to the steering wheel control issue - and how to ensure you get a model with Android Auto. You seem to be in control on that front already though :)

By the way, you will need a suitable diagnostic tool (since you mentioned Android already, just go and get an OBDeleven dongle) to perform the coding on the RCD330 so it will play nicely with your Dynaudio amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I plugged the old stereo back in while I look into these options.

Unfortunately, the front door bass speakers are no longer producing any sound. Everything else seems to be working.

I'm hoping that I didn't blow something. Anyone have any thoughts?
 

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My first guess is that you did blow something - the early Dynaudio installations were susceptible to blowing woofers. You could check by taking one of the rear speakers out (they unscrew; the fronts are riveted in) and plugging it into the connector for the front speaker - that'll tell you whether it's the amp or the speaker. (Assuming the other front speakers are working, that means it's not the head unit or the connection to the amp that failed.)
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Aaaarrggghh...

Well, that's what I feared. Looks like I need to remove the door panel to access the speakers to test them. I assume I'd need to remove the side panel in the rear too to get at those. Wonderful.

It looks like the 2008 EOS has either the 1Q0035456C or the 1Q0035456F amp, which are listed at $948 and $1,333 respectively (parts.vw.com).

I've read conflicting info that the Dynaudio has 600 vs 300 watt output. One post I saw on vwvortex from 2011 indicates that it is 620W RMS (not sure if this applies to my model year):
- 4 Bass @ 110w RMS each
- 2 Mid @ 40w RMS each
- 4 Tweeters @ 25w RMS each

If I go aftermarket, it appears I'd be somewhere in the same range for an amp and crossovers.

If the problem is with the speakers, I believe they are the 1Q0035454D, which are $206 each from VW. I don't see any watt ratings on the parts site.

Did I mention Aarrgghh?
 

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I would believe DynAudio at 600 watts. 300 would not work as well top down on the highway. If you truly have DynAudio you should have a woofer, mid and tweeter in the front door. Instead of tearing the back seat apart swap the wiring between the woofer and the mid range. You sound like you know some wiring, so you should be able to come up with some kind of home made adaptor. I have had my Eos since late 2006 and no problems with the speakers. What generally kills speakers are rust/corrosion or Cranking the bass at elevated volumes, easy to do in a convertible rolling down the road.
 

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I would believe DynAudio at 600 watts. 300 would not work as well top down on the highway.
The 600W Lear amp in early Dynaudio installations was replaced with a 300W Blaupunkt amp in later versions.
 

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Aaaarrggghh...

Well, that's what I feared. Looks like I need to remove the door panel to access the speakers to test them. I assume I'd need to remove the side panel in the rear too to get at those. Wonderful.
It's not too difficult to get at the rear speakers - you just need to yank the back seat up and pull it out, then undo the two screws it reveals and one by the seat belt. Then, as you remove the panel, reach around and unplug the tweeter that's in the panel. The speaker then unscrews.

You could test with any old 8-ohm speaker you have lying around, of course :)
 
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