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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the engine warning light on the way to work this morning. Didn't notice any changes in the car's behaviour on the way to and from work ( round trip = 80 miles of which 40 on the motorway).

I plugged in VCDS when I got home and read off the following code:-

Address 01: Engine (CBA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 022 PM HW: 03L 906 022 G
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3765
Revision: 13H01--- Serial number: VWX7Z0I23N683Z
Coding: 0001072
Shop #: WSC 00477 210 91526
VCID: 7F0772582EE6636

1 Fault Found:
009754 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 120903 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:38:01

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1886 /min
Speed: 82.0 km/h
Voltage: 14.06 V
Lambda: 95.5 %
Bin. Bits: 10011111
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Temperature: 85.5°C

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

=================================

Can some clever person on here help translate what this means??

Thanks in anticipation.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Silvershadow......

"electric pump that pumps water around the engine once turned off to assist with cooling of turbo etc. £126.00 incl for pump 1 hours labour".....

Too complex and time consuming for my DIY skills, I'll see what my local dealer says.....

I'll also lay off the 'loud pedal' and let the engine cool down at the end of each run to prevent damage to the turbo......
 

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If the warning light associated with the electric cooling pump came on whilst you were driving on the motorway and not after stopping and restarting the car, the pump would not have been required.

I would guess the monitoring system picked up something like no voltage on the pump motor. My guess would be to check any fuses associated with the pump first. That is challenging because VW fuse diagrams are all different and if a fuse blew it probably means the pump motor has shorted out which for you would be a dealer visit anyway.

VW may have used a pump motor motor with a reverse voltage protection diode fitted internally, to stop motor spikes causing interference to the vehicle electronics. Those diodes can fail short circuit and cost 10 cents to replace if you are curious and into opening things up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply voxmagna...... The warning light disappeared the following morning and has not appeared since......

So I don't attend to touch anything unless and until it reappears!
 

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Have you rescanned found and cleared any codes? With some faults you have to get so many logged before the light gets put on, or they just self clear. Best to scan to be sure.

Most modern cars can trigger random faults, particularly when batteries are low. It's whether they come back and stay with diagnostic scans or not that usually matters.
 

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Hi voxmagna, can you pls point me in the right direction regarding DRL that I am wanting to buy and have fitted, I can,t fit them myself. what make do you suggest also best place to have them placed on the car ? there are 2 spaces around the spot lights but not sure which one. kind regards Rick
 

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Hi, I haven't personally fitted DRLs but there are several here who have done a lot of EOS customizing, Suggest you could start a new thread for answers and photos - Vox
 

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Can anybody help me how to go about fitting DRLs ? what make & where to position them, photos would be appreciated. Kind regards Rick.
 

· YORKSHIRE PUDDING
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DRLs

Hi can anybody help me of what make , type of DRLs etc and where to position them ? photos would be appreciated as well. Many thanks. Rick.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry for the delay in reply....... No recurrence of the fault for a couple of weeks and then it appeared again last week. I've rescanned and cleared the codes and will wait for a recurrence....... no discernible change in behaviour of the engine....... did the annual oil and filter change last weekend and could see nothing untoward.......
 
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