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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondered if anyone has got an easy way to clean the interior of the rear window?
I've tried getting in to the rear of the car but apart from having to be bit of a contortionist, I find the headrests get in the way.
I've had some success partially opening the roof but find it a bit awkward and I still find that I miss bits.
Do you have success with any particular product or just use at chamois?
Would appreciate any tips as although it looks clean in my driveway when I do it, the sun soon highlights the bits I've missed when I get out on the road!

Tom
 

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I use washing up liquid on the glass and then use a leather. There are sometimes smears left on the glass but that is often because the leather needs a rinse. :)

I know what you mean about having to be a contortionist plus the problem with the head restraints. I havn't found a solution yet so I just soldier on with the contortions. Can't see anyway around it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks AJ,

I'll give it a try!

Tom
 

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I use washing up liquid on the glass and then use a leather. There are sometimes smears left on the glass but that is often because the leather needs a rinse. :)

I know what you mean about having to be a contortionist plus the problem with the head restraints. I havn't found a solution yet so I just soldier on with the contortions. Can't see anyway around it. :)

The secret to a sparkling rear window is to let the detergent/water mix dry after application leaving a white powdery film on the glass and then wipe off with a barely damp chamois [I am assuming your "leather" is what we call a "chamois or shammy"] that is rinsed and wrung out on a regular basis.

If you can access some old-fashioned Cloudy Ammonia solution, a tablespoon in the detergent/water mix will help cut through thick films of the vinyl plasticiser that forms the film on the inside of the windows. Again, let the solution dry before wiping off.

Cannot help with the access problem, I am too tall and leave this cleaning to my partner who is short enough to be able to access the window with minimal difficulty :).
 

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Be very careful what you do and what chemicals you use on the inside of the rear screen. As the EOS gets older the already fine heater tracks get brittle and are easily damaged. Mine looks a mess now with dots of conductive silver paint all over it. A new rear screen glass is quite expensive.

The fundamental problem is the tracks are too fine and water leak problems not solved by the previous owner left permanent condensation on the screen, helping to corrode the tracks.

Also, as the screen heater tracks break, your FM radio reception gets worse.
 

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Contortionist is right - It's an incredibly tight space. I pondered putting the cat on the shelf and letting him run back and forth. Could use the exercise. :)

I also tried this Windshield Wonder thingy, but the headrests are a pain.
 

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Contortionist is right - It's an incredibly tight space. I pondered putting the cat on the shelf and letting him run back and forth. Could use the exercise. :)

I also tried this Windshield Wonder thingy, but the headrests are a pain.
Think twice before using your cat!!!!:eek:

I almost used mine until I realized that his sand paper tongue will ruin the heater grid strips immediately. Plus, he will get an overdose of copper.


The vet bill will eat into my Mod allotment.:mad:
 

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Yes silvershadow a chamois was what I was referring to. :)

I was going to suggest to TomG that he could overcome the need for contortions by letting his spouse clean the rear window but didn't have the nerve !! :)
 

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NO need to contort. Just open the roof partway and shut off the key. The backglass is fully exposed and it's a quick and easy wipe. Don't take too long though, because the top doesn't hold tension in half open position indefinitely. It will start to relax and fold. But for wiping the inside of the rear window, it works like a champ!
 

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There is only one roof position where you can best access the rear glass from both sides.

Read my post on replacing the glass in the frame where I made and used two short props under the hinge. If you try to get to this position without props and the roof pump times out, everything will start moving!

if I can replace the complete glass which includes getting the screen adhesive all the way around and fitting the heater connections, you should be able to clean it.
...everything will start moving!
and I should have added if this happens and the roof gets to a position other than where it last remembered it was, it could go out of sync and in some circumstances will be a big headache to fix.

If you use props the roof safely stays put from where it knew it was and if you only take it forwards NEVER back on the switch to release the props, all will be good.:)
 

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I’ve owned my 09 for around 7 years & only recently found/joined this site. I have been struggling with my rear windshield for most of those 7 years & the advice in this thread will be a huge help. Thank you!
 

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There is only one roof position where you can best access the rear glass from both sides.

Read my post on replacing the glass in the frame where I made and used two short props under the hinge. If you try to get to this position without props and the roof pump times out, everything will start moving!

if I can replace the complete glass which includes getting the screen adhesive all the way around and fitting the heater connections, you should be able to clean it.
and I should have added if this happens and the roof gets to a position other than where it last remembered it was, it could go out of sync and in some circumstances will be a big headache to fix.

If you use props the roof safely stays put from where it knew it was and if you only take it forwards NEVER back on the switch to release the props, all will be good.:)
This is such a great idea. I am technically challenged I'm afraid. Do you by chance have a picture of the props and where you placed them? My husband is 6'3" and I'm just...old. Getting in the back would work but I'm afraid I would need to live out my days there as I would never get back out.
 

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You will read posts from others who part open their roof to do seal maintenance, then have parts slide back and get jammed or out of sync, only to have huge problems getting the roof working again because any further operation on the switch is disabled. Propping the roof when part open is a V.W workshop procedure to safely work on the EOS roof whilst ensuring parts don't move unexpectedly and get out of sync.

Here's the link showing my 'Vox Props'. They aren't the same as expensive V.W workshop tools and you need to ensure you push the roof switch to the close position when removing them!

If I can get access to replace the rear glass, you can certainly clean it, but space is very restricted and a muskrat on the end of a pole might work easier. :)
 

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You will read posts from others who part open their roof to do seal maintenance, then have parts slide back and get jammed or out of sync, only to have huge problems getting the roof working again because any further operation on the switch is disabled. Propping the roof when part open is a V.W workshop procedure to safely work on the EOS roof whilst ensuring parts don't move unexpectedly and get out of sync.

Here's the link showing my 'Vox Props'. They aren't the same as expensive V.W workshop tools and you need to ensure you push the roof switch to the close position when removing them!

If I can get access to replace the rear glass, you can certainly clean it, but space is very restricted and a muskrat on the end of a pole might work easier. :)
Muskrat on a pole....:LOL::LOL:. That will be my next option should I fail at the props. Thank you so much!
 
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