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I just finished a major upgrade (radio, instrument cluster, climatronic) to get rid of the old blue/red color scheme.


One of the things I replaced is the climatronic unit. I had the MY07 one, with the blue gauges.

I found one on eBay that was suitable (from a passat cc).

To do the upgrade you have to follow a couple of steps :

- In the largest of the 3 connectors , cut the pin20 and pin16 wires. Connect the wire that went to pin16 directly to pin20 on the connector. The other 2 wires can be taped off, they don't have to be reconnected. This is necessary because otherwise the climatronic unit won't remember its last setting and will be in the off-position anytime you start your car.

- The first time you use it, hold the AC button together with the upper-vent blower button for a couple of seconds. The LED's on the buttons will blink for a bit . When they stop blinking , hold the AC button together with the rear window heater button for a bit , the compressor will now calibrate.

- You also need a new fascia because the new climatronic has a different shape. Partnumber is 1Q0 858 069 J 041 in piano black. They also exist in silver but I liked PB more :p It took the VW dealership 3 days to get it , it costs 45 euro.
 

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Hello,

i want to do the same in My eos 2007 but what is the part number of climatronic ? it's Climatronic of New beetle or golf 7 ?

thank you
 

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Necroposting as I'm trying out an upgrade to mk6 Climatronic on MY07.

First off, OP broke the first rule of electronic mods: THOU SHALT NOT CUT THE FACTORY WIRING LOOM!

Some equipment levels (those with the remote auxiliary heater) already have the yellow and red wire on pin 20. Early versions of the Eos have a twin-motor recirculation flap which is not compatible with the mk6 Climatronic, so this upgrade does not work without more parts. If you try this on MY07 cars, you will likely discover that recirculation and possibly the compressor don't work. (some info here)

The right way to modify the wiring is to get a 2.8mm MCP connector, and an MQS plug and socket with connectors. That way, you can plug the old pin 16 into the MQS plug and make a wire that goes from that to the new MCP connector, plug that into pin 20 and tape off the old black and green wire - so you can undo the mod if it doesn't work.

The reason for this upgrade was that I wanted to add the air quality sensor - since I found the mk6 Climatronic panel and fascia cheaply I figured I'd give it a go. I've been through several iterations of this and I'm very glad I always had the ability to put everything back the way it was!
 

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OK, after a couple of brainwaves and getting a lot of things wrong, I believe I have everything working now - at least the recirculation seems to be working as it should - without any new parts - and recalibrated the compressor (it needs the engine to warm up before it will run).

The MY07 recirculation setup has two motors: one which controls a big quarter-circle flap that goes between fresh and recirculated air, and one which controls a small flap that lets cabin air in. Later versions have a single motor whose job it is to move the big flap, and the small flap probably moves using a sequence of gears.

According to the Germans you should wire the two motor signals together and do some magic with a potentiometer to make the two flaps work in harmony as the VW gods intended. There is something else you can do, though, which I found on another forum (post 147): you simply rotate the small flap so it's fully open, because the big flap does the job of switching between recirculation and fresh air. There may be slightly more cabin noise this way (I haven't tested this while driving yet) but it's easier than electrical hackery and won't go wrong. I'm probably going to order the other flap assembly anyway and stick it on my to-do list.

The easiest way to rotate the flap is to set the old Climatronic to recirculate then turn the ignition off. Then you can remove the glove box to check there's an open vent in front of you and unplug the blue connector that's right in front of you in the middle of the glove box. If for some reason the flap is closed, you can do it the hard way: now you've got the glove box out, undo the two nuts holding the comfort module in place and move it to one side, unclip a clip that was just behind that blue connector and one above the motor, and pull the plastic housing forwards. The motor will now pull out to the left. Use a screwdriver to press the clips on the motor through and open it up, then rotate the actuator by spinning the wheel on the end of the motor until it moves all the way to the opposite extent. Open the small flap, replace the motor and assemble everything the Haynes way (opposite of removal). Thanks to the two worm gears, the motor will keep that flap in place, and since it's unplugged, it won't do anything with the electrics. The nice thing about doing this is that, when you run the flap calibration, you can see into the mechanism and watch the big flap move exactly as it should. :)

As for the air quality sensor, here's how to fit that. I found it easier to use some stiff wire to push through from the engine bay to the cabin, loop it around the three wires I needed and pull them back through - regular wires didn't show up when I pushed them from the engine bay. And do not splice the wires - that's not cool! You can connect the earth to the grounding point by the front right wheel that becomes visible when you remove the glove box, and take the terminal 15 positive wire from pin 12 because the new Climatronic module doesn't need that - you'll need another MQS pin, but if you did what I said above you should have one to hand.

One last thing: the mk6 Climatronic figures out what kind of car it's in from the CAN gateway, and if the gateway doesn't declare the car to be a cabriolet, it won't change settings when you open and close the roof. So, if you've upgraded your CAN gateway, make sure you've not just updated the installation list, but also checked that the long coding is correct: it should be set to 355000 for the Eos.
 

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The newer version of the flap assembly has arrived and it's exactly as I thought: the newer version of the fresh air / recirculation flap opens both the big fresh/recirculation flap and the fresh air inlet flap via a clever gear.

Based on the removal of the new assembly from the rest of the climate system, swapping it out should be a matter of undoing two T15 screws then pushing the assembly forwards and lifting it up and out, unclipping the second motor as you lift it out. I'm hoping that removing it from the car won't require any fiddling around from the other side.
 

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Hah! So much for that. The assembly won't fit past other components in that area, and you'd have to take the dashboard out to do it. There doesn't appear to be any other way to do it, so this will have to wait for when I have a lot of time on my hands!
 

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Now, coming back to those Germans... there's a reason they do some electrical tricks with the potentiometer. For whatever reason, the potentiometer in the single motor version has a different resistance to the one in the dual motor version, which means that the big flap closes completely to recirculate air, but only moves half way towards fresh air mode. The upshot of this is that you always end up with some recirculated air, and nobody wants that. One way to deal with that would be to install the potentiometer as they suggest. Another would be to join the two motor circuits together as they describe, but adjust the small flap motor (by taking the cover off and winding it manually) such that, when the Climatronic is in fresh air mode, the small recirculation flap is completely closed. When you want recirculated air it will only open half way, but you will get fully recirculated air when the Climatronic is on recirc and fully fresh air when it's set to fresh. The struck-through method doesn't work. The small flap gets out of sync as it opens more than it closes, so it will never fully close.

Anything you read about a solution that does not involve adding a bridge to ground using a potentiometer or other resistance is wrong. Some people say you should join the signal pins 6 and 7 together. Some say you should plug pin 6 into pin 7. Some say you should unplug them both completely. They are all wrong, because all of these will cause the Climatronic module to work in fault mode and it won't know whether it's recirculating or not. If you don't take the glove box out and look at what your flaps are doing, you might never know. If you don't check your fault codes you could be none the wiser. Until, that is, winter comes and your windscreen won't defrost because you're pushing half recirculated air on to it.

You can get the flaps to recirculate correctly and close almost completely (maybe the big one does close completely, I can't see) with the following method:
  • On brown connector C, join pins 7 and 10 together into pin 10, and pins 8 and 9 together into pin 9, as the rest of the internet tells you.
  • Join pins 6 and 7 on the black connector B together into pin 7, as the internet tells you not very clearly.
  • On the plug for the small flap motor (the one at the front), remove black pin 1 and insulate it; remove brown pin 3 and put it in pin 1.
Why does that help? The Climatronic module measures the voltage from the potentiometer signal to ground. The mk6 Climatronic module expects a lower signal as the potentiometer has a greater resistance. The potentiometer on the small flap motor is connected in reverse to the large one, so you don't get a correct signal if you just join them together. The ground terminal needs to be swapped over and the signal one removed, so that the potentiometer on the small flap motor has the effect of reducing the signal in the same way as the large flap motor does. This should also help the two motors stay in sync. A small extra resistance would probably enable them to close completely.

It may also be possible to swap potentiometers between motors if they have the same innards, but having played around with this enough I'm not going there!
 

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Having played around a bit more, it seems the Germans are on to something with that potentiometer, but it's a little tricky.

First, instead of tapping into the big pin 19 ground, it's better to take from pin 14 on the black connector, which is the ground that goes to all the potentiometers. It makes the circuit a little more "correct".

Second, when you do this, the flap end stop calibration won't work. You need to calibrate the flap end stops without the potentiometer, then add the potentiometer and adjust it, and everything will work nicely. When you do this, check that you don't get any faults for stuck flaps. If the flap end stops ever need calibrating again, you need to remove the potentiometer, re-calibrate, and add it back in again - otherwise you will get a fault code again.
 

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I take my hat off too you with this challenge. :) There's more to do here than drive the car! If heat comes out of my seats and the vents, or cold air in Summer and the radio works, that's all I need. However, I do see an advantage in a diesel fuel driven auxiliary heater for top down driving in Winter, can you incorporate that in your mods? :)
 

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If heat comes out of my seats and the vents, or cold air in Summer and the radio works, that's all I need. However, I do see an advantage in a diesel fuel driven auxiliary heater for top down driving in Winter, can you incorporate that in your mods? :)
My Eos has the (electric air) auxiliary heater, and the mk6 Climatronic has a button for it instead of the magic incantations required on mk5 (econ off, dual off, auto on, heat high, dance in a circle around the car three times tapping each head and tail light as you go) so I’ll stick with what I have!
 

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Do you know how many killowatts the electric auxiliary heater adds and can you feel the difference top down? I know the standard coolant system heater produces the equivalent of many kilowatts. I think the basic Climatronic like mine doesn't share the temperatures equally between feet and face level vents. E.g for cooling most of it is coming from the top vents which seem logical because I can't think why you would want your feet chilled down.
 

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I believe the air heater is only 1kw or so - half your average domestic fan heater. One day I'll poke around in the spare Climatronic assembly I have (I only wanted that damn recirc flap that I can't fit) and figure out how that all works.
 

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Thanks, I thought it might me more. I played around with a cheap 550 watt ceramic heater for the rear window and it didn't do a lot for the cabin temperature apart from the weeny dc motor making a lot of noise.

I was thinking about 1000 watts? That's approx 72 Amps just for the heater. Is it there just to give some short term cabin heat until the engine warms up and also cuts out at low rpm, or is it on all the time? The Webasto 12V diesel heaters are 2-5.5kW output using 0.13 to 0.66 l/h and a couple of amps for the fan. Quite expensive and it needs its own outlet exhaust pipe. They put them in a lot of RVs.

The Webasto 5Q0898008K is fitted in an Audi A3 Sportback so I'm on the right track for a real V.W Winter heater booster. Imagine getting in your EOS after removing the snow in Poland (Brrr) and it gets hot after a minute or so, then you take the top down when it's 0C outside whilst just wearing your T shirt and baseball cap as superheat comes out of the vents.

 

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Hello All,
Any ideas what I can retro fit to my 2011 Facelift Eos 2.0ltr SE TDI,
I've added cruise control on the wiper arm, which works first rate,
Now looking for some mods that will enhance her,
I have luckily a body shop and garage services at my disposal, so anything is possible.
Cheers Mark
 

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Any ideas what I can retro fit to my 2011 Facelift Eos 2.0ltr SE TDI,
Take a look at my profile page - there are links there to all the electronic upgrades I've done (Dynaudio sound, reversing camera, etc). If your car doesn't have the self-parking system you should be able to fit that as well. Others focus more on tweaking the appearance, and you'll find threads on the forum about that with pictures.
 
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