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I had what seems to be one of those problems that fills the forum, but could not find the diagnostic route to the solution. So I tried them all. I hope that my efforts will shorten your path. The problem, yes you guessed it, was “window drop”. That quirky thing that the all-knowing EOS does to let you in an out of the car without wrecking the window seal. It is a beautiful design that can go wrong in effort so many ways.

My driver window would not drop. My passenger window would.

The first thing I found suggested was the electronics in the driver door lock itself. So out it came and ohm meter in hand I make sure that all the circuits opened and closed properly. I could have easily done this by turning the key in the door all the way and holding it. If it locks/closes all windows or unlocks/opens all windows then the electronics are just fine.

Next, I was told that a wonky ignition tumbler or switch could be the cause. I sent the VIN number to a reputable manufacturer along with proof of ownership and a new tumbler and switch arrived. For me it was not the cause, but it certainly was necessary. My key wobbled in my worn tumbler and was ready to fail. When they fail, they fail and leave you stranded. If your key is sloppy, replace it. It did not fix my window drop issue, which I should have known, because the key is a common signal to both windows and one worked and the other did not. Shame on me. Diagnostic 101.

I could open and close the driver window from the outside using the key method so the motor worked, but it was weak. So I replaced it hoping that it would fix the window drop. But no it didn’t. And again shame on me. If the window works, but it won’t drop it is not the motor.

So what is left? The regulator. But it was fine. It faithfully raised and lowered the window. I even greased it. It worked great.

Little more information — the motor would attempt to drop the window (you could hear it) but it would not succeed.

With the door panel off I looked around and saw small fragments of red plastic in the bottom. I took out the motor. Under the motor there is a metal shell attached to the regulator. I took it off and there it was . . . the problem. One cable comes through a red guide into the regulator. It has shattered. That cable pulls the window down and it had a 1/2 inch play because of the broken guide — that same amount the window should drop! The motor tried to drop it. Moved the cable a half inch, but that failed to move the window.

Had I simply followed good diagnostics I could have found it quicker, but I needed the motor, I needed the new tumbler, and hey, who does not like an afternoon tinkering with a car.
 

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I had what seems to be one of those problems that fills the forum, but could not find the diagnostic route to the solution. So I tried them all. I hope that my efforts will shorten your path. The problem, yes you guessed it, was “window drop”. That quirky thing that the all-knowing EOS does to let you in an out of the car without wrecking the window seal. It is a beautiful design that can go wrong in effort so many ways.

My driver window would not drop. My passenger window would.

The first thing I found suggested was the electronics in the driver door lock itself. So out it came and ohm meter in hand I make sure that all the circuits opened and closed properly. I could have easily done this by turning the key in the door all the way and holding it. If it locks/closes all windows or unlocks/opens all windows then the electronics are just fine.

Next, I was told that a wonky ignition tumbler or switch could be the cause. I sent the VIN number to a reputable manufacturer along with proof of ownership and a new tumbler and switch arrived. For me it was not the cause, but it certainly was necessary. My key wobbled in my worn tumbler and was ready to fail. When they fail, they fail and leave you stranded. If your key is sloppy, replace it. It did not fix my window drop issue, which I should have known, because the key is a common signal to both windows and one worked and the other did not. Shame on me. Diagnostic 101.

I could open and close the driver window from the outside using the key method so the motor worked, but it was weak. So I replaced it hoping that it would fix the window drop. But no it didn’t. And again shame on me. If the window works, but it won’t drop it is not the motor.

So what is left? The regulator. But it was fine. It faithfully raised and lowered the window. I even greased it. It worked great.

Little more information — the motor would attempt to drop the window (you could hear it) but it would not succeed.

With the door panel off I looked around and saw small fragments of red plastic in the bottom. I took out the motor. Under the motor there is a metal shell attached to the regulator. I took it off and there it was . . . the problem. One cable comes through a red guide into the regulator. It has shattered. That cable pulls the window down and it had a 1/2 inch play because of the broken guide — that same amount the window should drop! The motor tried to drop it. Moved the cable a half inch, but that failed to move the window.

Had I simply followed good diagnostics I could have found it quicker, but I needed the motor, I needed the new tumbler, and hey, who does not like an afternoon tinkering with a car.
You just discovered the nightmare that is VAG window regulator mechanisms, there are many aftermarket ones out there but just don’t buy the cheapest IMHO.

Mick
 

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I had what seems to be one of those problems that fills the forum, but could not find the diagnostic route to the solution. So I tried them all. I hope that my efforts will shorten your path. The problem, yes you guessed it, was “window drop”. That quirky thing that the all-knowing EOS does to let you in an out of the car without wrecking the window seal. It is a beautiful design that can go wrong in effort so many ways.

My driver window would not drop. My passenger window would.

The first thing I found suggested was the electronics in the driver door lock itself. So out it came and ohm meter in hand I make sure that all the circuits opened and closed properly. I could have easily done this by turning the key in the door all the way and holding it. If it locks/closes all windows or unlocks/opens all windows then the electronics are just fine.

Next, I was told that a wonky ignition tumbler or switch could be the cause. I sent the VIN number to a reputable manufacturer along with proof of ownership and a new tumbler and switch arrived. For me it was not the cause, but it certainly was necessary. My key wobbled in my worn tumbler and was ready to fail. When they fail, they fail and leave you stranded. If your key is sloppy, replace it. It did not fix my window drop issue, which I should have known, because the key is a common signal to both windows and one worked and the other did not. Shame on me. Diagnostic 101.

I could open and close the driver window from the outside using the key method so the motor worked, but it was weak. So I replaced it hoping that it would fix the window drop. But no it didn’t. And again shame on me. If the window works, but it won’t drop it is not the motor.

So what is left? The regulator. But it was fine. It faithfully raised and lowered the window. I even greased it. It worked great.

Little more information — the motor would attempt to drop the window (you could hear it) but it would not succeed.

With the door panel off I looked around and saw small fragments of red plastic in the bottom. I took out the motor. Under the motor there is a metal shell attached to the regulator. I took it off and there it was . . . the problem. One cable comes through a red guide into the regulator. It has shattered. That cable pulls the window down and it had a 1/2 inch play because of the broken guide — that same amount the window should drop! The motor tried to drop it. Moved the cable a half inch, but that failed to move the window.

Had I simply followed good diagnostics I could have found it quicker, but I needed the motor, I needed the new tumbler, and hey, who does not like an afternoon tinkering with a car.
so what did you end up doing to fix the shattered part?
 

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The OP had an obvious regulator fault, but search here for info because there is plenty and the most common problem is the window won't drop as far as it should, even though the window appears to work normally. The test is to put the flat of your hand on a raised window glass and try pushing it down. If the glass moves it's because the wire has lost tension. If a green plastic pulley or other plastic part is broken, it's usually because the steel wire has already frayed as it moves across them. Any broken pulleys or guides usually means the wire is frayed somewhere along its length.

It's fundamental to the way the regulator works that the wire must stay extremely taught with no slack and this is done with one way auto self tensioning springs. The window motor turns a preset number of turns to drop the glass and if the wire is slack it just takes up the wire slack and doesn't drop the glass. This common fault occurs on an old steel wire that rusts, starts to fray and loses tension. The only solution is a replacement regulator assembly or re-wire and replace the nylon winder drum. Another consequence of a slack wire is the window glass once raised can drop away from the top roof seal with road vibration and allow water to leak into the cabin.

Once you go to the trouble of getting inside an old window regulator mechanism, you might as well replace it or the wire and do the other side as well. The rear windows use a shorter wire needing less force and are less likely to need replacing. They are a pig to do anyway.

Some here have had issues fitting the Lucas so called 'O.E equivalent' regulators made in China that are not exact copies of the OE. There are now some EOS regulator repair kits being sold which include the wire, guides and all important nylon winder drum which can get mangled. The drum MUST be exactly the same pattern size as the OE. The EOS OE regulator wire is threaded through the sleeves before the wire 'stops' are pressed on. If I'm looking at a regulator wire kit, I would expect to see the sleeves and stops factory assembled because the pressed on stops are pulling large forces. Most important, the wire length should be correct.

We need some feedback from those who have successfully fitted a re-wire kit because I think the seller sources have now got better at making them correctly.
 
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