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Discussion Starter #1
This isn’t a full how to but a few helpful tips if you need to remove / reinstall the following items

Drivers side door lock collar
Driver’s side lock (the part the key goes in) referred to as the outer lock below
The actual lock mechanism (inside the door)
Door handle, retainer and carrier
Inner and outer door cards
Re-sync the locks

Back story

I had to remove the outer door lock and handle to do some body work. After reading the workshop manual it seemed an easy job.

What I’ve listed below in part 1 is how to recover /reinstall all the parts if the job goes a bit wrong and you need to remove the door cards etc. to get the outer door lock collar to seat properly in order to reinstall all the other bits

Part 2 lists how the job should go.

Heads up before you start

The mk5 golf door assembly is different to the EOS

Watch the Humble mechanical’s video on how to remove the outer door lock and handle. The rest of the video doesn’t apply but gives good info so worth a watch (golf mk5 door lock install)

The video states to do 12 full turns of the screw (anti clockwise) in order to remove the lock, if you do any more the collar will drop out and end up in the bottom of the door. The work shop manual doesn’t mention this. I tested this and it works with 11 full turns of the screw.

In essence I unscrewed the lock collar screw to far and it fell into the door, hence the notes below. Details of the ‘screw’ I’m referring to are mentioned below

Door fastens snap so have a few spares (see pic1)

VCDS / scan tool – very helpful for checking the door lock is working properly/ diagnostic checks

The UK lock down meant I had a lot of time to play around with this and I didn’t need the car for work / other purposes. In all I rebuilt the parts listed over a few days, so make sure you have enough time available before you start

It took around 10 hours or so from end to end due to following factors

Trying to work out how to reassemble all the parts, and in what order
The correct position of the collar at various points during the install
Rebuilding / installing the door cards and testing the locks
If I had the info below, or need to do it again I think it may be 2 hours of work

Read Vox’s post on window regulator install to give and over view / step by step guide on how to remove the card cards etc.

You need the glass to be up in order to access the parts mentioned below

Keep the door open whilst all work is done, and don’t close it till your finished

Part 1

Tools / parts required
Usual Torx and triple bit square sockets / bits / usual hand tools
Drill driver to remove all the inner door skin bolts (hand tools work just as well)
Door fastens – These usually snap when you remove the door card so have a few spare before you start
Good scan tool / VCDS

Rebuild
  • I tried to remove the outer door lock and handle as per video. Unfortunately, the lock collar fell off into the bottom of the door. See pic2 for the parts that I needed to reinstall / mentioned below
  • At this point the outer and inner door cards, outer door lock, door handle, carrier / door handle retainer / spring have been removed and are on the bench
  • The key to a successful rebuild is to understand how the collar works, how it holds the outer door lock in place, the order to parts need to be reassembled in in order for the lock to work properly.
  • Pic3 shows the collar installed into the carrier. Note the right-hand side of the collar slips into the carrier and the screw is fully screwed in. This is the locked position.
  • Turning the screw 11 full turns will move the collar to the open position.
  • After lots of trial error, I found out the collar needs to be in the closed position for the door handle to latch onto the door handle retainer (white plastic part in pic2)
  • The collar then needs to be moved to the open position so the outer door lock can be installed
  • With the collar installed in the locked position, install the carrier and collar into the door
  • Line up the lock end first, clip in the other end and screw in the single screw
  • Check the collar is still seated square onto the carrier. The door lock will not seat and lock in position if its not seated / aligned properly
  • Next clip in the black plastic cover (see pic2 for part) into the lock end of the outer door skin (outside) and pic4 for location
  • Insert the right-hand end of the door handle into the door making sure the black plastic flap goes into the hole. don’t push it fully home, just leave it a bit loose at this point
  • Now the tricky part. You need to install the door handle retainer and spring, (white plastic part). Install the spring as shown in pic4a
  • Hold it flat against carrier and push the handle in from the outside and then slowly release the retainer so it latches into the handle. It took me 4 or 5 goes at this to align all the parts. see pic5 and pic6. It helps to have long arms, if not you might need a second person to help out
  • If you are struggling to do this part, its usually due to the collar being out of alignment as the retainer won’t sit flush against the carrier or let you insert the door handle tabs as it gets stuck on the collar. So, recheck it if you’re stuck
  • Check the door handle moves in and out smoothly, don’t use to much force as the collar will drop out of place
  • Next you need to install the door handle Bowden cable. In essence it’s a short cable, 6/7 cm long with a black plastic tab on the end. See pic7
  • Look for witness marks on the door handle, see pic8 , to use as a guide when installing the tab
  • Push the cable through the hole for the door lock and insert the tab. You can reach inside the door and push the cable through. Again, it took a few goes to get this right
  • I made a mistake here and pushed the door lock arm (the part the cable is attached to) forward and installed the tab in the end of the channel, see pic9. I think this then caused some lock sync problem, which I will cover off later
  • It only fits one way and should be installed as per witness marks in the plastic housing, or if they are not visible, install the tab so there is no tension on the cable, approx. half way up the channel
  • Make sure the collar is still seated correctly. Next turn the screw 11 times to move the collar to the open position. Nice and slow, if you mess this up just screw it back in and start again
  • Pull the door handle open a couple of mm, slowly insert the lock and once fully home, screw the screw in until its fully home
  • Check from inside the door the collar and lock are seated properly and the cable is still attached, see pic10
  • Don’t close the door at this point, but it is time for coffee and a biscuit as this is the hardest part done
second post and pics to follow ....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi more pics . pic 10 did not turn out that clear so I've posted another pic that shows the the lock installed and collar locked to shows what your looking to replicate ....
 

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You know Rob, I've had my door cards off and innards out a few times and never done anything with those parts. But for the last few weeks my door sounds like a tin can when I close it and I'll have to go inside. Perhaps I'll investigate this because the noise on closing is definitely coming from the handle/latch area.

From your photos it looks as though there's a lot of parts to break or work loose. If you have any tipe I'm listening! - Vox
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hi vox

A few more pics to post and some note as well. Hopefully get some time this weekend to finish them.

Top tip have some share clips on hand and the video mentioned above is worth a watch on you tube

Regards

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Post 2
  • You can now pull the handle in and out, nice and gentle, several times and compare the movement and force required vs. the passenger side. Double check the lock / collar is seated correctly. If all good you can now start to put the rest of the door together
  • For reference pic11 shows the tabs that need to be pressed in on the end of the door lock mechanism when removing the inner door card. These are a right pain to reach, but can be reached when the regulator has had the 4 screws removed and you push your hand in. See vox’s post re door regulator for details
  • Next undertake a visual inspection of all the parts you will be refitting. I noticed that some of the wiring was rubbing through and some of the tape needed to be replaced
  • The door lock wire runs on the inner side of the inner door card. Some parts are just clipped into place some others are tie wrapped into place. I found it easier the remove the wiring altogether along with the inner door card to give more access.
  • With the car lock cable wiring installed, align the card with the white tabs and gently push home. Install and couple of bolts at the top, just hand tight then pull the main wiring harness and door release cable through and seat the grommets. Route and secure all cables. Have one last look around and then install all remaining bolts / clips etc.
  • Reinstall outer door card (see Vox’s guide)
  • With the door now closed test all functions. I tried this with the door open and the window wouldn’t go up. Loads of testing with vcds and the regulator reported that the window was already up (100%). Removed everything, all looked OK , reinstalled everything still no joy. Disconnected the battery, left it 20 mins. still nothing. Closed the door cleared all fault codes. window worked.
  • Next I tested the locks. Passenger side worked fine; drivers side worked from the inside but not the outside. To fix I adjusted the tab that fits into the handle so there was no tension on the lock arm. Tested no joy. Next you need to re-sync the manual handles by pulling both handles in and out at the same time. Do this around 20 times . yes I now it sounds daft but it worked fine. All tested fine
  • vcds gives loads of info on what the lock is doing, handle position etc. You can also activate a number of test on the lock and window regulator as well . Well worth a look if you get stuck
 

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When you have had the door.window controller disconnected or the battery, there seems to be TWO ways to recalibrate the 'One Touch' and get the window to come right to the top and bottom. 9 times out of 10 my windows (and sunroof) have always come back in odd positions. Scary when you first get it, but not so when you've done the recalibration procedure. vcds does not report any errors if the modules are ok and you cannot do the windows reset using it.

Method 1 (Doesn't always work)

Hold the window switch in the Up position for 15 seconds, then repeat holding it in the fully down position. Most times I've tried it this way the window just stays stuck at the wrong intermediate position. I think this method is only used to correct small errors, or if the drop down isn't working.

Method 2 (always works for MY07).

Set all the windows and sunroof into part open position.
Remove ignition key and close the drivers door.
Insert key in door lock and hold fully clockwise for 15 seconds. All windows & sunroof will move to their fully open or fully closed position (can't remember which).
Repeat holding the key in the fully anti clockwise position for 15 seconds. All windows move to the opposite fully closed or open position.
Open the door, key in ignition and try a short press on each window switch. The window should rise or fall on its own. Repeat to check the sunroof operation.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery often should be avoided because you can induce other problems in controllers. I only do it as a last resort or if I need the battery disconnected for maintenance.

Method 1 does calibrate the 'glass fully down below wiper seal' service position. This is the motor stall point and is useful if you need to replace or clean the long blade seals attached to the door. In normal operation the glass should stop just above the stall point, about level with the top edge of the wiper blade. I think the same motor revolutions count is what determines the EOS 'drop down' distance when a door is opened.

PS: Your last photo showing the locking claws is the biggest pain being hard to see and release when all the lock and handle parts are attached. I now use a 12 point torx to remove the screws holding the lock plate on the door which allows the whole lot to be wiggled about so you can see and get to the claws a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi vox

Good tip re key in door lock . I couldn't get that to work before as I wasn't holding the key long enough in the hold position

Regards

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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I've never understood why sometimes you have to try both methods to get the result, but 'key in door' seems to work more consistently for me. Until I read your post, I hadn't realised how many parts were inside the flap and lock assembly.
 
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