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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'll try to keep this short...

I have a 2008 EOS 2.0 TDI Sport DSG.

So a couple of weekends ago I decided to put the roof down for the first time this year and it went down without issue so off I drove to the shops. However, on returning to the car I found that the boot wouldn't open and the roof wouldn't go up! Also, the 'All window' switch didn't work but individually the windows worked fine. Having experienced electrical/ flat battery related issues previously (I only do short journeys, battery replaced in Jan) I took the car for a long drive to top the battery up but still the roof didn't go up and the boot, all window switch and sunroof didn't work.

It sat out overnight with the roof down and in the morning I took it to a local specialist who found a power supply failure to the control unit requiring rewiring, put the roof back up manually, identified water in the boot, charged me £150 and gave me a quote for a further £1000+ including VAT to fix the electrical issues and replace the roof pump motor.

Now, I'm a bit reluctant to replace the roof pump motor as it worked just the day before when taking the roof down and I don't really want to spend that much on fixing something which is not actually essential so just left it. The boot, the all window switch and the sunroof were still not operational though.

After a few days I start getting error messages on the dash like 'speed too fast' the roof conversion icon lighting up whilst driving and particularly when cornering! So I had a look in the boot which is now dry and saw the garage had disconnnected the pump so reconnected and tried cleaning things up around the solenoids, reseating connections etc. I removed the trim on the left hand side of the boot and checked the roof controller connections also. All seemed OK. To my surprise the sunroof, boot and all window now worked so I tried the roof too but got an error message so just left it.

Two days later I go to use the car and it won't start because the battery is dead. So I buy a car battery charger and it takes roughly 12 hours on fast charge to get the battery fully charged again. Now the boot and sunroof work ok but the windows do a lot of 'chattering' on ignition and work randomly or not work at all when activated either individually or with the all window switch. The roof does not go down-the windows go down, the sunroof goes back then it gives the message 'system error no convert. top operation'.

I have seen here on the forum and on Youtube that the window chatter could be due to a faulty ignition switch which I could buy for £12 on ebay, however it would cost £150-200 for a garage to fit. The ignition switch could also be a reason that the battery has drained again despite being new and I'm wondering if this £12 component could be responsible for all my electrical woes so would like to try and fit it myself.

I'd appreciate hearing thoughts/advice and any help with the following-

1. Would fitting a new ignition switch involve removing the airbag/steering wheel or can it be got at just by removing trim? I couldn't find step by step instructions here or on Youtube so any clues on removing the steering column trim?

2. Could this all be related or is it more likely that we are talking about multiple unrelated issues ie low battery, dodgy ignition switch and faulty pump motor all confusing each other.

3. Roof pump motor can be bought for £300 refurbished on ebay so I'm tempted to buy and fit myself. Has anyone done this or have instructions? Again, I looked but couldn't find instructions here or on Youtube so apologies if I missed them.

Thanks in advance! John
 

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As a first, I would want to know the fault codes you get from the computer with vcds.
In most cases the roof motor is not the problem, but the electronics unit driving it is. It got probably wet, coroded, and is not functional anymore. It is located on the left, behind the lining in your trunk.
When the battery has been disconnected, the windows forget their positioning and that must be re-learned by turning them up and down with the key in the door lock. You need to turn the key open, the window goes up, then keep the key turned for some seconds after the windows are totally up. The same with the down position. But, maybe, your window regulator units are also gone wet/coroded/broken.
Again: look at the fault codes first (a vw shop can do that for you if you don't have access to vcds).
 

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You seem to have a bunch of faults not all with a common cause and some kind of logic that wants to focus on some things but not others. :confused: Batjes is right that you haven't a cat in hells chance without diagnostics to help. But don't expect diagnostics to be a 'silver bullet' taking you straight to one problem which solves everything.

Water getting in anywhere is a disaster for complex electronics and you need resolve that at the same time as replacing parts. Allowing batteries to run flat can cause electronic modules to fail, jump starting and charging on the car afterwards can do the same thing. Read up on power supply 'brown out' conditions for microprocessors. When you turn off the ignition, many electronics modules are still connected to the battery. When laying up a car you are better off disconnecting the battery, keeping it on a trickle charger on the bench and sorting out the radio codes after reconnecting it.

Any confusion is coming from your own assumptions. With multiple faults like yours creating a complex fault finding scenario you have to understand and use diagnostics to work through each issue and you can't just ignore something because you don't think it matters or it worked yesterday!:( Parts which you don't think are essential are still talking electronically to other parts. All modern cars including the EOS with the added complexity of roof control, function as a complete inter related system. You think the ignition switch is just turning power on and off and can somehow cause battery discharge faults. It doesn't work like that. The ignition switch sends signals to controllers (computer modules) which wake up the CAN and tell the controller to start the car, turn on the radio etc.

Unless you are prepared to buy diagnostics, learn how to use it and understand complex automotive electronics, you should consider leaving the problems to an expert. This probably won't be the local garage but a genuine VW dealership or a shop specialising in VW electronics which includes the EOS roof system.

At the moment, I think you are shooting a lot of lines influenced by internet research without any diagnostics evidence from your car to back them up and confirm your conclusions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Today the boot, all window switch and sunroof were not working again so I re-charged the battery (again) which took 2 hours on fast charge and now they work. How long for is anyones guess.

Clearly reparing this car is beyond my skillset even with diagnostics so I've booked it back into the specialist and will just have to hope that the bill isn't too eye wateringly high. If I'm lucky then the pump will be OK and it will just be the power fault.

Just be aware that if you are reading this considering buying an out of warranty EOS that you will probably need to spend a substantial amount on fixing the roof if anything goes wrong. As time goes on and winters take their toll on the car, water will find it's way in and there will likely be issues. Make sure you know where your nearest roof specialist is located.

As much as I've enjoyed driving this car (whilst it worked) I will get it fixed then sell it whilst the sun is shining and replace it with a Passat with a sunroof!

Thanks for reading and responding Batjes and Voxmagna. It's been a frustrating and confusing couple of weeks so it's good to be able to share and vent a little.
 

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I have a friend with one of the newish Audi soft top cabriolets. For some reason the roof pump failed and they also replaced the complete top hinge system. Total bill was around £5K!

Modern cars are repaired by replacement of parts which the service procedures are written around. Unfortunately, Cabriolet cars use expensive parts and customers often foot the bill for poor diagnosis and wasted time. I think part of the problem is the technicians are not Engineers but 'guided' fault finders and they don't work on many EOSs. Their algorithms and flow charts don't require intelligent thinking and if the faults are random and don't fit their charts, you are paying a huge labor bill for them to keep consulting or calling in specialist experts at the mothership, all of which is time you pay for and possibly unecessary new parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it turns out the electrical/roof issues were down to corrosion of the roof ECU due to water ingress/damp in the boot area but the roof pump/motor was OK. Apparently there is a rubber bung in the boot area under the pump which can be removed to allow water to run out so best to do that before receiving a £1k bill!
 

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I have removed my bung as mentioned in my previous post and fitted a silicone drain tube. I've also ditched their grey sponge pump cover and I'm now happy I only get a teaspoon of water on the floor, which I think is trapped in the trunk lid and released when opening the trunk just after rain. I'll sort that design problem this Summer.:(

But the real cause of your problem is water leaks and they must be found! I'm surprised water got on to the roof controller because it is fitted quite high up behind the left side panel. The usual scenario is water in the trunk reaches the lowest solenoid at the bottom of the pump and I can imagine the controller driving it could get indigestion. You should remove the big plastic strap over the pump, partially rotate it and have a look underneath with a light and mirror. I cleaned off some rust primed and re-painted underneath.

The problem with the roof controller I've posted before is there are 3 or 4 fat multi-way connectors, one of which handles all the roof control and sensors. These connectors are not gold plated and contact pins can easily go bad, particularly if there is high humidity due to a water leak into the trunk. I spotted mine early before Gremlins and cleaned everything with switch cleaner. Trunk leaks become obvious when there is permanent condensation on the inside of the rear window and other windows. If you keep allowing that the defroster wires will corrode, break and become impossible to repair. At the same time your radio reception slowly starts getting worse. I've just replaced my rear heated window glass which is an expensive job for a shop to do.
 

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I just want to add a short retort. I recently placed USB and Aux cables in my radio where the blanks are near the shifter. When doing so I fried one of my phone cords in the USB and my roof stopped working. The switch for the top and sunroof would do nothing. My trunk release button also was not functioning. I took the car to my local auto body and they were able to reset the computer so it was fully functional again. They said I burned out a breaker when I did the electrical changes.
 

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The rule when doing any electrical work is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. You are lucky to have got your faults fixed with software resets.
 
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