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Hello - I'm hoping to learn more from this forum about the most recent issue with my 2012 EOS with 130,100 miles. I just got it back from the dealer ($2300 trip) where they replaced the water pump and belt along with front brakes. 2 days later I had an ESC malfunction pop up along with 2 indicator lights. The manual says it's an ABS malfunction. I don't notice any difference driving the car. I've pumped a lot of money into the car this year with replacing cylinders, cleaning up the carbon build up, etc. Hoping someone has experience with this issue before I had back yet again to the dealer in the morning for them to plug it into their computer. Just seems odd that this happened 2 days after getting it back.
Thank you
 

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It's not unusual for this to happen just after the car has been in after work on the brakes. A stray bit of grease or similar getting on one of the ABS sensors will mess up its readings and stop the system from working. I've had this happen to me on an earlier car and had to take the car back to the garage.

You won't notice any difference when you're driving the car until you have to brake suddenly and you discover that you have no ABS stopping you from going into a skid. (I'm assuming you don't drive like a loon on the edge of the car's grip and you don't usually get the traction control light flashing at you - it won't help you there either.) ;)
 

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It's not unusual for this to happen just after the car has been in after work on the brakes. A stray bit of grease or similar getting on one of the ABS sensors will mess up its readings and stop the system from working. I've had this happen to me on an earlier car and had to take the car back to the garage.

You won't notice any difference when you're driving the car until you have to brake suddenly and you discover that you have no ABS stopping you from going into a skid. (I'm assuming you don't drive like a loon on the edge of the car's grip and you don't usually get the traction control light flashing at you - it won't help you there either.) ;)
Many thanks for the quick response. Nothing worse than going into dealership as a female with zero knowledge of the problem. Appreciate the guidance and have a good day.
 

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You said you had TWO indicator lights? If the ABS fault light AND ESC light are both lit, that points straight to the wheel sensors because an ABS wheel sensor fault will stop ESC from working. Yes, to work on brakes (whatever they have been doing) they will have been around the wheel sensor wiring and connectors which if you are lucky may have just got a bad connection? A diagnostics scan will tell them straight away which wheel sensor is wrong and it's up to you to argue if that was one of the brakes they have worked on? Another fault scenario can occur if they changed any wheel bearings (or didn't tighten a hub bolt!). For peace of mind it's good you are taking it back soon.

As aku-aku said, your car will drive and brake normally, but won't have ABS working for exceptional emergency braking situations.
 

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You said you had TWO indicator lights? If the ABS fault light AND ESC light are both lit, that points straight to the wheel sensors because an ABS wheel sensor fault will stop ESC from working. Yes, to work on brakes (whatever they have been doing) they will have been around the wheel sensor wiring and connectors which if you are lucky may have just got a bad connection? A diagnostics scan will tell them straight away which wheel sensor is wrong and it's up to you to argue if that was one of the brakes they have worked on? Another fault scenario can occur if they changed any wheel bearings (or didn't tighten a hub bolt!). For peace of mind it's good you are taking it back soon.

As aku-aku said, your car will drive and brake normally, but won't have ABS working for exceptional emergency braking situations.

Thanks - I'm going to print all of these answers off and bring them with me tomorrow. And yes both of those indicator lights are on. They replaced the front brakes. One thing I noticed, and it's probably a safety reason, is that the cruise control doesn't work now. I'll mention that too. Thanks again.
 

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Yes, it makes sense that cruise control wouldn't work if there's something wrong with the ABS sensors - they deliver data to several of the car's functions. The good news is that there should only be one thing for them to fix, and the diagnostics will tell them which side it's on and exactly what to look at - and when they fix it, it'll solve everything in one go.
 

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update - indicator lights did not come on driving home from work yesterday nor heading to dealer this am. Dealer said the issue was a right rear wheel speed sensor and for a mere $500 they could replace it. I deferred. Will search in this forum for that issue. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Sooner or later you will have to DIY and get your hands dirty then? Although diagnostics has reported what we suspected, you don't know why it is faulty or caused it to go faulty and these parts don't 'just fail' without a good reason. That will be for you to find out. In fact just replacing an ABS sensor either may not work or could be covering up the real problem that may cause the replacement to fail the same way or not work? Because you don't have diagnostics, you could get the same or similar problem on another wheel after your DIY repair and lead yourself a dance.

For $500 you aren't just paying a wrench to supply and fit a part. You are also paying for en experienced hand to examine your front wheels, the sensors, wiring and bearings when they know what else to look for and you may not.
 

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Yes you nailed the problem. Dealer said it could wait a bit so I'm waiting a bit. Thanks again for your insight.
 

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update - indicator lights did not come on driving home from work yesterday nor heading to dealer this am. Dealer said the issue was a right rear wheel speed sensor and for a mere $500 they could replace it. I deferred. Will search in this forum for that issue. Thanks again for your help.
Hello. It is very easy to replace the speed sensors on the EOS. I just replaced all 4. I would advise to replace both rear sensors. It you have car ramps just back it up on the ramps to replace. You can use YouTube to see how to do it. Very easy. Hope this helps
 

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ABS sensor faults can occur:

1. If sensor connecting plugs are corroded or wiring is damaged - easily repaired and cleaned with switch cleaner.
2. If the sensor clearance gap has changed (wheel bearing wear).
3. The sensor to reluctor ring gap changes as the wheel rotates with load (wheel bearing wear, faults on hard cornering).
4. Sensor makes contact with the bearing sensor ring wearing the sensor and ring.
5. The printed sensor ring is corroded, has made contact with the sensor face, has missing segments or is less effective e.g iron filings/grindings on its surface.

Replacing all sensors without further inspection has no logic when a degrading wheel bearing is the more important fault to look for. The consequences of leaving a worn wheel bearing causing runout can be expensive replacement of the hub, bearing, reluctor ring AND brake parts. A new sensor may appear to work for a while with a worn wheel bearing (put out the ABS fault light) but if the wear is bad, the ABS reluctor ring has probably failed. So what starts as an ABS fault light can end up with replacement wheel bearing (s), ABS reluctor rings, wheel bearings, rotors and pads if they are no longer running true. YouTube advice is misleading if it doesn't warn you that an ABS sensor fault can be caused by a worn and failing wheel bearing.

When an ABS warning light comes on, I read the fault first as a possible warning of impending wheel bearing failure. If the warning is intermittent and off, I will hard corner the car left and right. If the light comes on I'm confident the warning tells me a wheel bearing is failing and if dealt with quickly I may save the sensor and reluctor ring.
 
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