Volkswagen Eos Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Imaging my chagrin at being told by a dealer that the 2.0lth Turbo engine has a known oil use problem due to a "special designed" cylinder/piston relationship that require more clearance blah blah - No I do know a thin or two about mechanical systems and I have never heard of such a built in design unless VW is owned by some oil company seeking to increase the use of an already scarce resource. Has anyone out there heard of a FIX for this rather onerous problem???

Cheers

joninperth
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
2,588 Posts
It is not unusual for new cars to have higher than expected oil consumption in the first 5000Km as the engine sets up its running tolerances - it is most important to avoid short trips during this stage as the engine needs to be at normal operating temperature as long as possible so the components can lap themselves to the surface finish and clearances needed for normal use.

I would not be making any judgements about the oil consumption until the car has 5000/10000Km up.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Mine doesn't use much, but I know of some which use a lot! The engine's work fine, so they are probably OK other than that... I normally drain out some of the castrol that VW use and put in Mobil1 0W/40 Fully Synthetic Oil to compliment it... I also put in a bottle of Extralube ZX1 after each change... This isn't the usual scam crap additive, it is genuinely used by Formula1 etc and I have used it for years...

http://www.team-zx1.com/What-is-ZX1

S
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
2,588 Posts
my 2007 EOS rips through oil like there's no tomorrow, it needs a full refill once a month!? is this normal...
Definitely not - two giveaways to the problem:

1. Oil puddles under the car wherever it is parked or oil residues on the underbody from faulty engine oil seals .

2. Smoke from the exhaust whilst the car is being driven from a heavily worn engine.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,964 Posts
Imaging my chagrin at being told by a dealer that the 2.0lth Turbo engine has a known oil use problem due to a "special designed" cylinder/piston relationship that require more clearance blah
That's a misleading statement of partial truth. The goal for an engine designer is make the engine last as many miles as possible. In past times an engine was considered worn out after 100K miles or less, whereas today life should be around 200K+. It was also realised that most engine cylinder wear ocurred when it was cold.

Combustion engine internals haven't changed much, so how do they get longer engine life? Some bright designer spark came up with the idea of using oval pistons in round cylinders. Oval pistons are made with expanding metal cast into them. When the piston is cold and more likely to wear, it is oval but when it reaches normal temperature the metal in the piston expands and the piston becomes circular and a tighter fit inside the cylinder

Now we have a different scenario that can cause an engine to burn oil for most of its life: If the engine is 'babied' from new and used for infrequent short journeys, the oval pistons will let past more oil UNTIL the engine is hot. Shopping moms often complain about their cars using too much oil! When the oil leakage builds up through regular cold starting, piston oil control rings get gummed up and stick. From then on the engine will burn oil however hot it gets. I have seen the results from this problem after an engine teardown. The cylinder may show very little wear but the piston rings are gummed up with burned oil. Those driving their cars hard do not have this problem. Look at how your car has been driven from new before criticising the brand. Most modern car engines now use the same design. A 2l gas engine is a big beast to heat up and oil burn more likely. If you are a local mileage user, you are better off buying a vehicle with a smaller engine. Big and turbo is not always best!

The damage has already been done caused by soft driving, short journey use, or frequent cold starts. Better to drive the car as if you stole it (within legal limits!) but what can you do now?

1. Engine teardown, replace piston rings and drive the car harder in future or let your younger kids drive it once a week.
2.Engine cleaner additive: This only has a small chance of success. You pour it in the fuel when the tank is < 1/4 full, then drive the engine hard at higher than normal rpm. The additive makes the fuel burn hotter and 'may' remove some of the piston ring clogging. There are also some additives that can be poured into cylinders and left overnight, but still no guarantee they will work.

There's a misleading 'Myth' from old timers about 'Running in' engines which isn't so relevant with modern engines. I drove rental cars for many years, some arriving new with only a few miles on the clock. None of them ever used oil between service intervals. It's too late if the damage is done but also look at your oil specs. There are some ultra low SAPS rated oils around which I try to get for my Tdi diesel.


If your car whatever its brand uses excess oil, look at how it has been driven. 'Low mileage one lady owner' may not be the car you may want to buy any more! :)
 

· Registered
2007 VW EOS 2.0T Manual
Joined
·
5 Posts
my 2007 EOS rips through oil like there's no tomorrow, it needs a full refill once a month!? is this normal...
My 07 EOS 2.0T FSI Manual has the same problem. No sign of oil leak, no check anything light. Was told by mechanic it will cost more than what the car is worth to fix this known 07 TFSI engine issue. At 163k miles now I just add 1 quart of synthetic blend 5W-40 every 200 miles. Was adding full synthetic 5W-40 Castrol Edge. Got to be too expensive. Car out of warranty anyway. It keeps running fine. Expecting it to die any day though.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,964 Posts
Expecting it to die any day though.
It won't die quickly unless you let it run out of oil! As the engine gets more clogged up you are more likely to get an emissions warning come up followed by limp home mode when serious. Limp mode is like slow death when you want to get somewhere fast.

Garage mechanics aren't into internal engine work any more? To re-ring an engine the cylinder head plus all the stuff around it comes off, the sump cover is dropped, connecting rod bearing half caps removed, push connecting rods and pistons out of engine, clean up all the oil grunged parts including the piston ring grooves, fit new ring set, clean up all the oil grunged parts, fit new gaskets and put it all back with new oil and coolant. It will be like a new engine, good for another 100K if driven better and a computer isn't required.

If you want to reduce oil consumption with nothing to lose try or bust, move up the oil grade or use a fixed grade? 5W is too light for an oil burning engine.

The scavengers are hovering waiting for some more used EOS parts to come up cheap. :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,964 Posts
Nobody with oil burn issues is saying yet how their car is driven or may have been driven by a previous owner? Although It's hard to tell if mileage was put on by a previous owner. I bet those doing performance tweaks don't have oil burn problems unless they blow their engine? We all like to buy a car with low mileage and one careful owner. But my argument is the 'careful owner' could contribute to a gummed up engine, unless it spent most of its time in the garage, not being driven by the careful owner. Clutch wear out and replacement is another clue. If a car has had bad clutch wear and it's been replaced under 100K, that's not a good reason to buy the car.

I posted my rental car experience. All my work buddies driving rental cars at the time said rental cars went faster and smoother than their own, particularly when getting back home for the weekend!
 

· Registered
2007 VW EOS 3.2 V6 DSG
Joined
·
20 Posts
Our '08 2.0 Ltr turbo uses about two litres of oil between each annual service/oil change and has done 103,000 kms. Our '07 3.2 Ltr V6 (natually aspirated) does not use any oil of significance between annual oil changes and has done 145,000 kms.

It is my understanding that many manufacturers in the early 2000's pursued fuel economy with much vigor and in the process converted to turbo engines with typically lighter pistons and changed rings. They did not necessarily get all those significant design changes perfect and so it is not uncommon for some engines from the early/mid 2000's to burn a bit of oil - it is the price you pay for the added fuel economy.

We also have an '05 Mini Cooper S that is supercharged and done 90,000km. It also does not burn oil but its Chrysler Tritec engine was designed before the rush to turbos - the engine was apparently designed for robustness and ease of maintenance - but not maximum fuel economy.

My new Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio has a 2.9 V6 twin turbo engine. It is due for its first 15,000 km (annual) service and does not seem to have burnt any oil. Oil burning should not be a significant problem in modern engines.

As I understand it BMW does not consider oil consumption is a problem until an engine is using at least one litre every 1,000 kms.
 

· Registered
2012 VW EOS 2.0 TSi LUX, 80k miles.
Joined
·
256 Posts
Our '08 2.0 Ltr turbo uses about two litres of oil between each annual service/oil change and has done 103,000 kms. Our '07 3.2 Ltr V6 (natually aspirated) does not use any oil of significance between annual oil changes and has done 145,000 kms.

It is my understanding that many manufacturers in the early 2000's pursued fuel economy with much vigor and in the process converted to turbo engines with typically lighter pistons and changed rings. They did not necessarily get all those significant design changes perfect and so it is not uncommon for some engines from the early/mid 2000's to burn a bit of oil - it is the price you pay for the added fuel economy.

We also have an '05 Mini Cooper S that is supercharged and done 90,000km. It also does not burn oil but its Chrysler Tritec engine was designed before the rush to turbos - the engine was apparently designed for robustness and ease of maintenance - but not maximum fuel economy.

My new Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio has a 2.9 V6 twin turbo engine. It is due for its first 15,000 km (annual) service and does not seem to have burnt any oil. Oil burning should not be a significant problem in modern engines.

As I understand it BMW does not consider oil consumption is a problem until an engine is using at least one litre every 1,000 kms.
How do you know when to add oil to your '08 Turbo?

Check with the dipstick, or do you get a "low oil" light on your EoS dashboard?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,964 Posts
How much would a garage charge to do what you have described above?
How would I know in U.K? You just pick up the phone and ask several repair shops in your local at the time you need to know. If the repair price is too high, then drive the car until it drops dead and sell it for parts, or sell it still going for what you can get and take the hit? Is your car burning oil, or are you worried there could be impending doom for you around the corner?

 

· Registered
2007 VW EOS 3.2 V6 DSG
Joined
·
20 Posts
How do you know when to add oil to your '08 Turbo?

Check with the dipstick, or do you get a "low oil" light on your EoS dashboard?
Since the oil burning is relatively constant we just check via the dip stick every few months and top it up as required.

I would be horrified if we left it so long that the oil light came on.

We recently had the engine check light come on and did not drive the car again until we could take it to the garage. My VCDS reported lean fuel and the mechanic found an air leak that he repaired. All good now.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,964 Posts
I would be horrified if we left it so long that the oil light came on.
In modern times of smartphones and Apps, most wait for the dash to tell them! The oil pressure light in most cars comes on at below 10psi. As you drive around corners with low oil, the oil slops around in the sump and air is picked up. The low oil pressure and level readings are electronically 'smoothed' and don't tell you the true story. Human eyes on the dipstick is failsafe, although V.W sticks can be hard to use and overfilling is common. I paint white correction fluid on my dipstick at normal level and fill to the top line. I never have to add oil between my 6K oil changes.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top