EOS Rear Window Remove/Install Post 1 of 4 long posts
On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I regard this operation as level 8, with a high possibility of collateral parts damage. These are my instructions, I think there is not much in the VAG operation procedures and of course EOS rear windows are unique to the EOS.
Tools required:
Torx T25 and T27 bits.
1 pair of Vox special wooden roof props.
A special cut down T27 10mm hex short bit and 10mm combination ring spanner or my tool.
A modified extended handle 13mm open end spanner, can be an alternative to the window adjusting tool but fiddly to use.
An alternative VAS window adjustment tool - Extra long 300mm T25 screw driver, 13mm box spanner with welded tube extension. Note 250mm long T25 more common, cut handle back 15mm, i.e. shaft is 265mm long.
Black silicone gasket sealer.
Battery charger
Plastic trim removal tools.
Telescopic pick up magnet and long pearl catch claw tool for getting dropped parts out of window cavity.
2 large car sponges (to stop parts falling into window cavities!)
Masking tape.
White correction marker.
Waterproof top or full car cover
Much larger tarpaulin cover may be required if the trunk lid is swung out and the roof is temporarily inoperable as rain approaches!
Work on one window glass only as this allows comparison with the other side and keeps a reference alignment for the second window on the same side. Remove the rear seat squab. Pull upwards hard on the front edge to release the two black spring clips, then fiddle about to remove it at about 45 degrees. Afterwards throw a blanket or sponge over the seat tray as you will be working on it.
In order to carry out my procedure, the rear window glasses must be operated to the extent the window regulator can be moved to the top and bottom to access the regulator frame fixing bolts through large holes filled with black plastic plugs. Move the glass fully down. Open the roof to the point where the side flaps are hinged out to access the stowage compartments 'fish tanks' as shown in photo then see inside trim cover photos. Remove 2 black screws at the bottom of the side trim panel and further screw in the top seat belt slot. Do not remove the panel yet.
Start the roof open sequence until the hinged trim units swing out. Look along the top edge of the inner body fish tank and you see two silver clips holding the top of the plastic side cover. GOTCHA VW in their wisdom provided a very short length of wire connecting the tweeter speaker to the cover panel you are about to remove. Do not pull off the cover panel then lay it flat on the seat tray and rip the wires off the speaker! When you have a hand width gap on the front vertical edge, slide in your hand, feel for and un-clip the tweeter connector first.
Using a screwdriver, gently lift up under the two top clips the side trim cover is hanging on. Slide the side trim forwards and upwards to release it. The seat belt does not have to be removed, but the cover is more easily positioned out of the way if you pull the belt through, then tie it with a tywrap to stop it retracting.
The hinged trim unit which is still hinged out now needs to be removed. It is held by 3 T27 bolts in large square holes allowing alignment/adjustment and there is a flexible Bowden cable securing clip at the bottom. Gently pull off the black/gray plastic trim cover - it should lift off easily. You don't need to disconnect the electrics. Using the correction pen, mark 3 or 4 reference points to the body around the outside of the unit to get it back in the same position. Remove the 3 T27 bolts. The unit can be stowed in 3 or 4 places. Safest is probably inverted in the cabin on the opposite side of the roof stowage compartment. It can be stored in the 'forbidden' trunk space but NEVER operate the roof, it can be hung over the wheel (support with string or wire) and protect body paint. Note: to check power window and roof, the side flaps can be put back in the compartment with one bolt or even positioned on the inside or outside - but check the cables are not going to get trapped by the roof hinge as it folds back!
The next stage is to remove the outer (chrome) and inner weather strips with a high potential for damage to the outer trim. This is the most difficult part of the procedure. Both weather strips have a deep rubber channel which pushes over the top edges of the outer and inner panel edges. Before trying to remove these, slide a long length of masking or pvc tape under the edge of the chrome strip, the full length. This will help avoid damaging the paint finish underneath the trim strips. Also run a wider 2" length of masking tape below and parallel to the trim strip.
It is VERY EASY to launch in with a screw driver and bend the chrome trim, whether it is front or rear. The chrome trim is only sold assembled to the rubber weather strip molding and can be an expensive part. Furthermore, the chrome trim edges are pressed over long rubber 'blades' making it virtually impossible to put it back once lifted off. Both inner and outer (with chrome trim) weather strips are removed together, starting at the rear. Look carefully at the exposed seals. The inner strip at the rear has a molding that connect to the trunk seal 'tube' with a loose rubber inner stiffener core. Another part of the seal flap runs underneath the rear corner trunk seal. You need to carefully start separating the end of the inner glass seal to lift it upwards. They may have used a mastic to get a smooth fit to the body panel in the corner. Remember that when you re fit the weather strip. I use black silicone gasket. It sticks well works well, and can be picked off to remove it. you should now be able to lift the inner weather strip starting at the back just enough to get the rubber parts free of the body metal and trunk corner seal. Do not lift the whole strip off yet. Now go the the front of the inner and outer weather strips. These are more complicated. Once again the rear weather strip is molded and fits into the vertical door seal. Carefully detach the end. The outer weather strip front end is even more complex. There are a couple of rubber pegs in the molding holding the seal flat to the door opening. but in addition there is an elastic band type extension on the molding with a peg that fits just inside the small opening into the cavity. This is a pig to remove and re-install. You need a small led light and a pair of long needle nose pliers. Now the tricky front strip with chrome.
The gap into which you slid your masking tape is actually under the chrome strip and if you lever upwards along its length, you will pull off the chrome and never get it back. You can exert a gentle pressure but not so much it lifts the chrome strip away. The rubber slot in the seal needs to be 'rolled' slightly upwards and backwards to free it from the top steel lip. At this stage the glass is still in the door at the bottom, but it will move a little outwards as the seal comes off. Using a wax crayon, mark the position of the rear end of both slot seals on the body, work so you can press them back in the same place.
With a blunt 6mm flat blade of a screwdriver, poke it in the rear end of the outer seal and UNDER the edge fold of the chrome strip. Gently lever until you can feel some movement but do NOT allow the chrome strip to deform. Be patient! Now repeat along the rear 50mm of the seal making sure you protect the body panel paint. The weather strip should start to lift. Slowly repeat moving to the front of the outer seal whilst pushing in a rolling over motion with the flat of your hand. The less screwdriver you use, the less paint damage under the trim. I found a thin bladed paint scraper quite helpful. You should now have both seals lifted along their length and just hanging at the front. Carefully lift both strips away, without tearing the slot in the seal at the front. Remove the black foam 'L' shaped gap filler from the front. Remember to replace this BEFORE fitting the inner and outer weather strips. It easily be forgotten and you will wonder afterwards where it fits!
Remove the black panel which supported the inner weather strip. The front bolt is hidden. At this stage remove all the plastic cover grommets, as these holes are required to access bolts. Where there is a large space below a bolt, stuff in your car sponges to catch the bolt if it drops. I find removing a bolt on the last 2 turns with the magnetic pick tool the safest. You can waste half an hour fishing around in the bottom of the window slot cavity for a dropped tool or bolt!
On a difficulty scale of 1-10 I regard this operation as level 8, with a high possibility of collateral parts damage. These are my instructions, I think there is not much in the VAG operation procedures and of course EOS rear windows are unique to the EOS.
Tools required:
Torx T25 and T27 bits.
1 pair of Vox special wooden roof props.
A special cut down T27 10mm hex short bit and 10mm combination ring spanner or my tool.
A modified extended handle 13mm open end spanner, can be an alternative to the window adjusting tool but fiddly to use.
An alternative VAS window adjustment tool - Extra long 300mm T25 screw driver, 13mm box spanner with welded tube extension. Note 250mm long T25 more common, cut handle back 15mm, i.e. shaft is 265mm long.
Black silicone gasket sealer.
Battery charger
Plastic trim removal tools.
Telescopic pick up magnet and long pearl catch claw tool for getting dropped parts out of window cavity.
2 large car sponges (to stop parts falling into window cavities!)
Masking tape.
White correction marker.
Waterproof top or full car cover
Much larger tarpaulin cover may be required if the trunk lid is swung out and the roof is temporarily inoperable as rain approaches!
Work on one window glass only as this allows comparison with the other side and keeps a reference alignment for the second window on the same side. Remove the rear seat squab. Pull upwards hard on the front edge to release the two black spring clips, then fiddle about to remove it at about 45 degrees. Afterwards throw a blanket or sponge over the seat tray as you will be working on it.
In order to carry out my procedure, the rear window glasses must be operated to the extent the window regulator can be moved to the top and bottom to access the regulator frame fixing bolts through large holes filled with black plastic plugs. Move the glass fully down. Open the roof to the point where the side flaps are hinged out to access the stowage compartments 'fish tanks' as shown in photo then see inside trim cover photos. Remove 2 black screws at the bottom of the side trim panel and further screw in the top seat belt slot. Do not remove the panel yet.
Start the roof open sequence until the hinged trim units swing out. Look along the top edge of the inner body fish tank and you see two silver clips holding the top of the plastic side cover. GOTCHA VW in their wisdom provided a very short length of wire connecting the tweeter speaker to the cover panel you are about to remove. Do not pull off the cover panel then lay it flat on the seat tray and rip the wires off the speaker! When you have a hand width gap on the front vertical edge, slide in your hand, feel for and un-clip the tweeter connector first.
Using a screwdriver, gently lift up under the two top clips the side trim cover is hanging on. Slide the side trim forwards and upwards to release it. The seat belt does not have to be removed, but the cover is more easily positioned out of the way if you pull the belt through, then tie it with a tywrap to stop it retracting.
The hinged trim unit which is still hinged out now needs to be removed. It is held by 3 T27 bolts in large square holes allowing alignment/adjustment and there is a flexible Bowden cable securing clip at the bottom. Gently pull off the black/gray plastic trim cover - it should lift off easily. You don't need to disconnect the electrics. Using the correction pen, mark 3 or 4 reference points to the body around the outside of the unit to get it back in the same position. Remove the 3 T27 bolts. The unit can be stowed in 3 or 4 places. Safest is probably inverted in the cabin on the opposite side of the roof stowage compartment. It can be stored in the 'forbidden' trunk space but NEVER operate the roof, it can be hung over the wheel (support with string or wire) and protect body paint. Note: to check power window and roof, the side flaps can be put back in the compartment with one bolt or even positioned on the inside or outside - but check the cables are not going to get trapped by the roof hinge as it folds back!
The next stage is to remove the outer (chrome) and inner weather strips with a high potential for damage to the outer trim. This is the most difficult part of the procedure. Both weather strips have a deep rubber channel which pushes over the top edges of the outer and inner panel edges. Before trying to remove these, slide a long length of masking or pvc tape under the edge of the chrome strip, the full length. This will help avoid damaging the paint finish underneath the trim strips. Also run a wider 2" length of masking tape below and parallel to the trim strip.
It is VERY EASY to launch in with a screw driver and bend the chrome trim, whether it is front or rear. The chrome trim is only sold assembled to the rubber weather strip molding and can be an expensive part. Furthermore, the chrome trim edges are pressed over long rubber 'blades' making it virtually impossible to put it back once lifted off. Both inner and outer (with chrome trim) weather strips are removed together, starting at the rear. Look carefully at the exposed seals. The inner strip at the rear has a molding that connect to the trunk seal 'tube' with a loose rubber inner stiffener core. Another part of the seal flap runs underneath the rear corner trunk seal. You need to carefully start separating the end of the inner glass seal to lift it upwards. They may have used a mastic to get a smooth fit to the body panel in the corner. Remember that when you re fit the weather strip. I use black silicone gasket. It sticks well works well, and can be picked off to remove it. you should now be able to lift the inner weather strip starting at the back just enough to get the rubber parts free of the body metal and trunk corner seal. Do not lift the whole strip off yet. Now go the the front of the inner and outer weather strips. These are more complicated. Once again the rear weather strip is molded and fits into the vertical door seal. Carefully detach the end. The outer weather strip front end is even more complex. There are a couple of rubber pegs in the molding holding the seal flat to the door opening. but in addition there is an elastic band type extension on the molding with a peg that fits just inside the small opening into the cavity. This is a pig to remove and re-install. You need a small led light and a pair of long needle nose pliers. Now the tricky front strip with chrome.
The gap into which you slid your masking tape is actually under the chrome strip and if you lever upwards along its length, you will pull off the chrome and never get it back. You can exert a gentle pressure but not so much it lifts the chrome strip away. The rubber slot in the seal needs to be 'rolled' slightly upwards and backwards to free it from the top steel lip. At this stage the glass is still in the door at the bottom, but it will move a little outwards as the seal comes off. Using a wax crayon, mark the position of the rear end of both slot seals on the body, work so you can press them back in the same place.
With a blunt 6mm flat blade of a screwdriver, poke it in the rear end of the outer seal and UNDER the edge fold of the chrome strip. Gently lever until you can feel some movement but do NOT allow the chrome strip to deform. Be patient! Now repeat along the rear 50mm of the seal making sure you protect the body panel paint. The weather strip should start to lift. Slowly repeat moving to the front of the outer seal whilst pushing in a rolling over motion with the flat of your hand. The less screwdriver you use, the less paint damage under the trim. I found a thin bladed paint scraper quite helpful. You should now have both seals lifted along their length and just hanging at the front. Carefully lift both strips away, without tearing the slot in the seal at the front. Remove the black foam 'L' shaped gap filler from the front. Remember to replace this BEFORE fitting the inner and outer weather strips. It easily be forgotten and you will wonder afterwards where it fits!
Remove the black panel which supported the inner weather strip. The front bolt is hidden. At this stage remove all the plastic cover grommets, as these holes are required to access bolts. Where there is a large space below a bolt, stuff in your car sponges to catch the bolt if it drops. I find removing a bolt on the last 2 turns with the magnetic pick tool the safest. You can waste half an hour fishing around in the bottom of the window slot cavity for a dropped tool or bolt!
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