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Hi in EOS land. 1st time to try this. I have always been impressed the answers herein where some displayed excellent "old-fashioned" trouble-shooting skills and greatly helped others in need. However, I have also seen many answer with information that was false and/or speculative. I worried for others I read that had some tough EOS problems and considered myself lucky. Than the chickens came home to roost all at the same time.

I had a small leak through a slight crack in the long brake light in middle of the boot. Cleaned out water, put in new lens and seal. Tested for water ingress, none. The Power Top Motor and Hydraulic Pump were sopped (foam). Later, examination of pump body showed little corrosion and side controller module showed no water ingress. However, in winter, windows seemed stuck and I assumed, later, from water sitting in spare tire well in trunk. I also got deterioration on defogging lines on rear window and when I fixed one spot, seemed to just blow further down.

Had water ingress in the outside door seals, even though dealer cut 2 holes each, in outer bottom door weather-stripping. However, no water into foot wells.

Had a rock break top sunroof glass which dealer fixed.

As information, I used Power Top a lot. Mileage on car now 115,000 km or about 75,000 miles.

In fixing a lot on car I was struck as to how cheaply it was constructed. ie. plastic on plastic on plastic. Some struts, ie. B4s were not even designed properly for car, no juts in bottom. Plastic clip covering trunk boot latch would not clip on anymore, holes too big. Where to get a small plastic clip??

In fall, roof worked twice okay after getting glass in from dealer.

Then I put conditioner on w/s on sunroof area. I probably got this conditioner on some of the sunroof tracking. When the sunroof went down for starting the roof down, the sunroof struggled. Then it got to roof down start and roof would not work. Started to show Workshop needed flashing along with roof going down like roof was stuck just going down even the roof down lever was not being pulled. Checked fuses-okay.
Then display started to show workshop needed but it also flashed overheating. Stopped car pulled fuses attached to windows, trunk lid, top, power top motor, one 40 amp blown, which was 50 amp before glass sunroof installed, which is not a problem. Found trunk latch not working on fob and inside car from door switch. Replaced trunk latch with new one. Kept fuses out and went to dealer.
Asked Dealer to test power top motor, check if fuses were right positions, as different dealer had replaced glass sunroof and played with changing fuses, which I had seen. Asked Dealer to also pull codes and to not put fuses in lest anything blow. After clearing codes, and 2 new 50 amps fuses in, sunroof worked perfectly, trunk latch worked in all ways from different operative stimulators. Dealer said that roof stuck shut and no way they could open even with trying their manual way of doing so. Dealer told it would take numerous hours of trouble shooting to find problem, told code showed top left front pillar showed unresponsive sensor.
(However, later found top right cosmetic interior long piece removed and just dropped going over a bump, and door trim piece sitting in console middle-loose).
I insisted there must be a way to check top and to please check motor for top. Was promised when they got left pillar sensor, dealer would install and check.
However, 2 days later, after saying they could not check Power Top Motor, they did what I asked, and dealer ran a positive cable with 40 amp fuse to battery and grounded other side of electric top motor. Said electric motor shot. Gave car back with me not really knowing what was really wrong or was tested by them. No pillar sensor put in as could not get roof down.
I am guessing by the way things occurred that number one.
I was stupid.
I should have stopped and troubled-shot the motor and checked fuses thouroughly.
Second, if it seems the way the permissives work on the roof, I believe that I got some Kyroil lub. in/on the sunroof tracking or down pillar sensor holes. This, on an older motor for power top was too much drag and blew fuse. Then, I guess, the roof would not open as with power stuck on to the power top to keep pushing it down, I imagine the electric power top motor overheated and went. I also imagine that the circuit for power top down stayed on because somehow the controller module shorted or burnt out inside of it.
So, obviously entertaining as this long story has been, does it seem plausible from what happened that I am on the right track and what would be the correct procedures to replace power top motor, and if needed the controller module.
Always the best
and thanking your response in advance
Sincerely Doug S.
 

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Contrary to the perception of sensors failing, I don't agree. Often it's the wiring or the roof connectors. Leaving water inside the car (windows always fogging) is a bad thing because the condensation produced causes bad electrical connections and nothing is gold plated. You can then get a multitude of diverse faults with it seems, no logic that anybody can help with. You've obviously been on a journey so I'll share my journey aimed at fetling most wiring and water ingress problems that have ocurred or could arise on MY07 EOS. If you have to rely on the dealer for your work you could never afford to do what I did in the following links. Still, you can savour the write ups and think how things could be with sufficient labor, care and time.

Now I'm a happy bunny and have no chickens roosting because I've been everywhere doing remedial fixes and know exactly what I've got :). I think I've been through everything that could give me future grief and now have confidence when I hit the roof open/close button and hear the smooth pump motor and all the parts falling nicely into place. Even done some things never written in the shop manual.


 
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