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The purpose of this wiring modification is to allow the central trunk lock to be released when the emergency release wire is either broken or can't work when the roof system has stopped during a cycle when the pull down motor has left the lid in the raised position. In this situation, the 'C' claws in each corner of the trunk lid may be locked. This modification only deals with the central lid lock.

The center lock assembly operated by the remote fob is located in the upper hinged lid and consists of a simple release solenoid. The upper lock locks itself to the pull down bar mechanically and releases with the electronic solenoid or the emergency pull wire (when it works). The operation of the lid pull down is done separately by a motor behind the rear cover panel.

The upper trunk lock solenoid is connected directly to the convenience controller fitted behind the glove box. The lock has an internal switch linked mechanically which tells the pull down motor to operate once it locks. Whilst you appear to hear the lock and 'whirr' of the pull down motor together, it's the lock that acts first. All is not simple because the command and control for the pull down motor come from the roof controller. A bad roof controller can mean bad trunk locking/unlocking.

The only simple thing is the unlock solenoid is powered by a single wire connected directly to the convenience module with no electronic control in between. That makes it possible for easy access to add an emergency release switch near the glove box. I have used a 3 position single pole miniature biased toggle switch patched into the solenoid wire entering the convenience module. One switch position connects the lock solenoid to the controller as normal. The center off position breaks that connection and can be used for extra security to stop the trunk being opened by a hacker. The third switch position is a momentary bias which puts +12 Volt directly on the solenoid to pop the lock.

The trunk unlock solenoid resistance is about 160 ohms (approx. 85mA). Normally, it only gets a 1/4 second pulse from the convenience controller so you just manually give my switch a quick flick. This is an ultra safe mod. because no voltage can be fed back into the convenience controller using a switch. However, I think the electronic driver inside may be o.k with 12 volts applied and in an emergency it may be possible to quickly link +12 Volt to the solenoid wire to release the lock. BUT I HAVEN'T TRIED IT! Do it at your own risk.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING THIS WIRING MOD. The photos are self explanatory. The connector of interest on the module behind the glove box is 8 pins. Red/Blue is the lock solenoid release wire that has to be cut and bridged with the switch (12 V for 1/4 sec to release) and the Red/Black wire nearby is permanent +12 volt. My emergency release switch fits into an existing hole in the aluminium frame behind the empty console cover (No fuse box, left side for RHD cars).



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