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Thanks for the info here, tomgadgets :)

I got the HID kit you mentioned "DDM Tuning Ultra 35W Canbus...."; Much better light output than the H7 Halogens & well worth the (sub-$100US) investment. (My details below.)

My EOS lighting is now on par with my 2007 GTI with factory HID lighting (...minus the factory auto leveling feature, but not necessarily needed if you're adjusted properly...!). the 5500K coloring is a little 'bluer' than the GTI HIDs (< ~45-5000K...?)

Note: DDM may have updated something along the way, because the H7 adapters (those twist rings from Koomtoom) were not needed. (on my 2007 Eos with the factory H7 halogens, the HID just used side wedge spring clips from the factory housing.)

I took the easy* way out...Instead of fitting the driver/ballasts modules inside the factory housing, I mounted them on the outside (* I drilled 1" dia. hole through access cover, used one screw through side of headlight housing to hold metal ballast thing (& used some (strong) double sided foam tape & large zip-tie for good measure (not 'elegant' install, but hey, it's ok for now! ;).

For wiring connections, I used multi-meter to confirm (& label) positive (+) and negative (-) bulb leads to the halogen bulb, after that I hooked driver plug supply leads to the (factory bulb plug) the White 12v from 'driver' is positive & the Black plug is ground (negative (-)) (as seen on

Zero issues with CAN bus. (& No interference with GPS bluetooth headunit, back-up camera, etc.)

Now those factory halogen high beams / flash to pass look a bit yellow ...maybe some LEDs for the next project! :D

Thanks again to tomgadgets (I hope these additional details I've added will help others!

(Standard disclaimer: If you blow something up, don't blame me. Although these worked for ME, Research things yourself just to be sure. :cool:)
GEETi I really like the way you mounted everything on the outside. I'm currently living in Florida where heat could be an issue so plan to mount mine similar to yours. Being in Florida I don't have access to my multimeter and wonder how important confirming positive and negative is.
Thanks for the info here, tomgadgets :)

I got the HID kit you mentioned "DDM Tuning Ultra 35W Canbus...."; Much better light output than the H7 Halogens & well worth the (sub-$100US) investment. (My details below.)

My EOS lighting is now on par with my 2007 GTI with factory HID lighting (...minus the factory auto leveling feature, but not necessarily needed if you're adjusted properly...!). the 5500K coloring is a little 'bluer' than the GTI HIDs (< ~45-5000K...?)

Note: DDM may have updated something along the way, because the H7 adapters (those twist rings from Koomtoom) were not needed. (on my 2007 Eos with the factory H7 halogens, the HID just used side wedge spring clips from the factory housing.)

I took the easy* way out...Instead of fitting the driver/ballasts modules inside the factory housing, I mounted them on the outside (* I drilled 1" dia. hole through access cover, used one screw through side of headlight housing to hold metal ballast thing (& used some (strong) double sided foam tape & large zip-tie for good measure (not 'elegant' install, but hey, it's ok for now! ;).

For wiring connections, I used multi-meter to confirm (& label) positive (+) and negative (-) bulb leads to the halogen bulb, after that I hooked driver plug supply leads to the (factory bulb plug) the White 12v from 'driver' is positive & the Black plug is ground (negative (-)) (as seen on

Zero issues with CAN bus. (& No interference with GPS bluetooth headunit, back-up camera, etc.)

Now those factory halogen high beams / flash to pass look a bit yellow ...maybe some LEDs for the next project! :D

Thanks again to tomgadgets (I hope these additional details I've added will help others!

(Standard disclaimer: If you blow something up, don't blame me. Although these worked for ME, Research things yourself just to be sure. :cool:)
GEETi I really like the way you mounted everything on the outside. I'm currently living in Florida where heat could be an issue so plan to mount mine similar to yours. Being in Florida I don't have access to my multimeter and wonder how important confirming positive and negative is. If it were backwards would it burn things out or merely not work? Or does it matter? I see the wires are white and black and am guessing it wouldn't be that way if it weren't important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If memory serves, polarity is important but hooking it up wrong will not cause any harm. It simply won't light up. You won't be damaging anything.
 

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If memory serves, polarity is important but hooking it up wrong will not cause any harm. It simply won't light up. You won't be damaging anything.
Since I had all the parts ready to be installed, I decided to not wait for a reply and take my chances.
Your memory serves correctly, as the bulbs didn't light up at first connect, so I reversed the connections and voila they came on.
I found that was also true of the Light Moses 360 degree bulbs that I installed for the high beams.
 

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Since I had all the parts ready to be installed, I decided to not wait for a reply and take my chances.
Your memory serves correctly, as the bulbs didn't light up at first connect, so I reversed the connections and voila they came on.
I found that was also true of the Light Moses 360 degree bulbs that I installed for the high beams.
I went out for a test drive last night. I only changed the lights on the driver's side (long story--the passenger side will be done presently).
OMG!
The HID lights were so much brighter and I could see lots farther than with the halogen on the right.
But the high beams!
The Light Moses 360s lit the road like a searchlight.
I can hardly wait to do the other side.
I am attaching two photos.
The first is the HID low (dipped) beams, and the second is the LED high beam.
What a difference!
22130
22131
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Glad you are enjoying the same experience I am having on my EOS. These lights totally transformed my EOS and I am really excited to share it with fellow EOSers. So happy for you and others who tried the same installation, it is my hope to be able to contribute to this forum and extend the longevity of our EOS as much as possible! My EOS now looks like a modern, brand new vehicle at night. The lights totally transformed the vehicle!
 

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Hey tomgadgets, I just wanted to give you a shout out. I just swapped out the factory low beams with the DDM kit. For anyone out there reading through this post, I'm not much of a DIY'er when it comes to car repairs and maintenance, but If I can do it, you can do it. This whole thread is a great resource, plus the videos available on youtube and the install instructions at DDM really helped.

I did end up mounting the ballasts and else outside the housing. Hoping mounting to the fuse box cover isn't a big deal. I definitely need to swap out what I believe are the fog lights with LED's as suggested.

Thanks again Tom and everyone else who contributed insight. This site is amazing.

IMG_2967.jpg IMG_2965.jpg IMG_2935.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hey Morinmt, you are welcome. I am in the same boat as you, not much of a DIY when it comes to car maintenance and upgrades, that is why I choose the DDM kit that is so easy to install. By the way make sure you are not mounting the ballast on something that is generating heat. They like to stay cool. If the fuse box is warm after driving for awhile, I would mount the ballast somewhere else that is cooler.

Just be forewarned this is an addictive exercise. Very soon you will be upgrading every single bulb in your EOS :)

Enjoy your new EOS!
 

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I did quite a biit of research on HID kits for motorbikes when they first came out and fitted 4 X 35 watt. 2 were Hi/Lo beam and 2 were off road auxiliaries. DDM tuning were one of the few around with decent QA. But things have changed with U.K annual inspection tests:

I've loved the HIDs for 8 years but had to pull out the hi & lo to be legal. In UK the annual test now includes checks on lights, lenses and their markings. HIDs grafted to an H7 lamp holder are not legal and they regard this as a 'serious defect' and won't even allow the vehicle to be driven away on the road!

I replaced both small auxiliary lights aka projectors with aftermarket 30 watt leds in ali housings as supplied and there are no fans. The Chinese sellers claimed they were 60 watts but on test there's no way I would run them > 30 watts. I think they are using a marketing trick that a 30w led is equivalent to 60 watts. On test I lit both the 30W led and 35W HID and could't see much difference and of course with led you don't have the complex power supplies.

One issue with leds is their color temperature. Your HIDs are 5500K and mine were 6K. Not blue but near to daylight, although they age towards blue. To match my 30W bike auxiliaries to tungsten I slipped in some theater light gel. No much light loss and far less conspicuous when lit. I remember when first going to HID on the bike it looked naff with the main beams HID and the parking lamp tungsten so I changed that for 6K led.

I think if I upgraded MY07 EOS I would try to fine a pair of used aftermarket xenons that have the legal OE lamp holders.
H7 on a HID capsule is a dead giveaway.and if the lamp holder is spliced to the wiring harness you cannot just swap the HID bulb if it fails. In those countries where you have to carry a spare headlight bulb, how would that work?
Hello VOX
Your idea of using OEM HID headlights is exactly what I hope to do on my 07 EOS 3.2.
My concern is how to wire in the HID units.
Have you any advice on the circuitry & hook up?
Best regards
Edward
 

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You need the EOS shop manual wiring diagrams. I know ETKA is generic for different EOS years and versions. The online pdf manual source is VIN specific and may not have wiring diagrams for Xenons. I just checked MY07 VIN specific pdf I bought and it does include wiring diagrams for Xenon option. I also think you have to have headlamp washers?

There will be module and coding changes to do. I would research the V.W parts list first and if you are looking at a used take off, make sure you get everything, because a missing part could be expensive to buy on its own. You will need minimum the headlight units with lamps, the Xenon control gear with high voltage connectors and cables plus any Xenon specific electronic control boxes and may need to do some vcds coding adaptation?

If you see any genuine aftermarket kits that look OE compatible with OE markings (not the Chinese/Korean modified H lamp kits), see what they put in the kit.
 

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I went this same route, although there was no way all of the components were going to fit inside the housing, regardless of how hard I tried. Ended up attaching the ballasts to the side of the headlights, tying up the rest and tucking them under the headlight housings. The 5500k DDM Ultra bulbs are more blue than listed and are no match to the 6000k Led driving lights (which are much more of a pure white) so I probably will change out the bulbs to 4500k Ultras.

Video will follow once I have some clips of the HID's at night.
 

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Revisiting this thread from a year ago- how are the HIDs holding up?
 
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