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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

After replacing the Evap valve and battery (see prev posts) I noticed that the FEAD system was getting a bit noisy

The FEAD system on my wife’s car, UK 2007 2.0 , tfsi , BWA engine code, (60k ‘ish miles) is made up of the following items

Alternator free wheel pulley (AFWP)
Belt tensioner
Crank pulley
Aircon pulley

After some research / reading up on the topic it seems the tensioner and alternator pulley are the usual suspects and should be inspected at around 60k miles and replaced at 90k miles.

Belt tensioner - You are looking for any noise from the pulley when it is spun and it should offer some resistance to being spun and there should be no grease leaking out. The bearing can be removed and repacked with grease put replacement is the better option. Also check the rubber sleeve , see pic ‘splt’ which had split on mine .

AFWP – Once the alternator shaft is braced, i.e. will not turn the pulley should only turn one way, make no noise and be free from leaks.

As for the aircon and crank pulley, these need to be inspected for signs of fatigue.

The belt can be inspected, but its almost impossible to see signs of wear, un like fan belts of old, so again replacement is the best option (£17 from Eurocar parts)
Another check that will show the AFWP or tensioner are on the way out is the tensioner bouncing up and down excessively, good vid on YouTube that shows this in action so you can compare.

Given the age of the car and miles I opted to replace the belt, tensioner and alternator pulley as the tensioner, once removed, offered no resistance and was noisy when spun. The AFWP only moved in one direction when braced but was noisy.
The belt was about 3 years old and looked fine

Tools and time

You need the usual tools (good socket set, torque wrench, Laser tool alternator belt kit (6750) about £25, see ‘tool’ pic. Don’t try and do this without the laser tool as you will just brake something / hurt yourself

As for time, I took approx. one hour to once the car was jacked up (driver’s side)/ axle stands in place with the wheel arch mud guard removed (just the front part). Just nice and steady and didn’t rush


Most of the work can be done from the top of the engine, and you only need to look inside the wheel arch for the inspection part at the end

1 – remove belt - use a spanner on the top of the tensioner, and pull towards the front of the car, until the locking holes align and insert a 4mm Allen key (see ‘pin’ pic). If you are going to reuse the belt mark it to show direction so it can be fitted in the same way once all the work is done. Remove belt. It’s a simple setup, but take a pic to show how the belt is routed if needed

2 – remove AFWP. If you remove the evap canister and tubes there is enough room to remove the pulley from the top. Stuff some rages into the gap to stop anything dropping down.

Use the tool as show in pic, you need the t50 and multi point socket, as shown in the “tool_inserted” pic. You need to hold the t50 still and turn the pulley anti clock wise i.e. push spanner on the pulley (not shaft, the t50 holds the shaft still) toward rear of the car. I used a socket on the t50 and pushed it against the engine mount, see rages pics as a brace so I could undo the pulley, and boy was it tight (85nm) after a few goes and it came off. This is the worst of the job over. Check pulley ref numbers (old vs. new) on the side of the pulley.

3 – Use a socket and universal join (UJ)t, approx. 70mm in length, and remove the 3 bolts holding the tensioner in place, and remove from the car. There is just enough room the get the socket and UJ on the bolts, see pick ‘socket’. Replace with new tensioner (£51 from TPS) and torque to 23nm. Leave the pin in place

4 – replace AFWP, is the reverse of the removal and needs to be tightened to 85mm (Euro car parts stock an OEM INA pulley, £60). Again, hard to do, given limited space, but possible

5 - Replace belt - check the spec of the belt vs new (length and type, see pic ‘belt’) and install

6 – Using a spanner, to hold the tension and remove the locking pin, and then release the tension very slowly. You need to inspect each pulley and the tensioner to make sure the belt is aligned in the groves of the pullies and the tensioner is sat on the belt correctly. you may need to repeat this process a few times to get it aligned. Make sure to look inside the wheel arch as this is the only way to be sure the belt is sat on the crank pulley properly. (see pic crank). Double check the alignment as if it’s not aligned the belt will be wrecked / snag if it’s not sat correctly. Search humble mechanic on you tube as he has a very good vid on this topic if you’re not sure.

7 – finishing up – replace wheel and remove jacks / stands and replace evap tubes and canister, remove rags and have a last check around. start engine and check the belt from the top and inside the wheel arch, there is just enough room to see the belt with the wheel in place. Once all Ok replace wheel arch mud guard.

Overall a bit of a pain due to limited space. The worst bit was getting the old AFWP off. After that it’s an Ok job. After a quick test drive the FEAD system is a lot quieter



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