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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just pulled the trigger a few weeks back, a Silver 2008 2.0 TDI CR with full main dealer service history and 71k miles.
Based around Norfolk U.K.
My close friend used to run a dealership in the main city and told.me to stay a million miles away from one as they leaked from the factory.
I used to have a Mk 3.5 Golf cabby, so I'm used to leaks!

Can anyone confirm the 2.0 TDI CR needs a modification on the 76mm oil pump shaft as they're prone to wear and possible failure after 100k miles?
 

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You got the later CR engine? Are you sure because I didn't think they were using them until after 2009? If it is the CR EA189 engine and had full dealer service, it would have had the dieselgate ECU mod. done which IMHO loses some performance and causes more DPF regens which you will discover if you are a short distance driver. If you find the engine fans running after parking, that's caused by an incomplete regen. and it will try again ...and again. I have this CR engine in another VAG car which is full of more expensive hard to get at stuff to go wrong, compared to MY07 BMM Tdi.

EOS roof leaks are a common problem for most. However, I've not had many engine issues. If I had the same problems as on my other CR engine and EOS roof faults to deal with I probably wouldn't run an EOS. Try searching other V.W, Audi, SEAT and Skoda sites with UK and EU members for your engine?
 

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CBAB is an EA189 16 valve engine which was the focus of dieselgate. It is in a group of 'common rail' diesels which I thought V.W put in later models? Get the VIN number code to confirm the engine code letters are how it was built. I think you can plug the reg. into a U.K Gov. website too. The EA189 diesels were supposed to be Euro 5 emissions spec. and presumably that's what the dieselgate ECU fix had to meet? The earlier engines like MY07 8 valve were Euro 4 emissions spec. It doesn't really make much difference because unless you have a Euro 6 compliant diesel engine (with Adblue) not EOSs AFAIK, they will still limit access to some cities, zones and make charges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
23366


Says CBA. Which is a CR engine with a smaller oil shaft that needs to be modded with the 100mm?
That's what I worked out from various forums. As far as I researched it's a cbab?
 

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My other VAG with the CBAB EA189 had its dieselgate ECU fix done (Something I'd advise others to think carefully about). Then a few weeks later the MIL light was on and horrendous carbon clogging of the plastic inlet manifold and EGR flap valve was found at only 58K. The EGR is fitted at the back of the engine, together with a new design of water cooler only found on this engine series.

It was Winter and I was forced into a Stealer repair. The original ECU hack mean't components in the EGR loop didn't need to respond much, but after the dieselgate ECU mod. the flap valve in particular became more active and I think that's what triggered the MIL fault? I got some Goodwill from V.W, but the overall bill could have been £1200 because they had to drop the engine, sub-frame and disconnect the front driveshafts to get access. The older BMM engine doesn't have the extra cooler parts and access to the manifold and EGR valve is a bit easier. These engines are great for freeway mileages, but useless for frequent short trips when more frequent DPF regens need at least 15- 20 minutes to complete at speeds above 40mph. My gripe with their ECU software is if a regen. only managed 10 minutes before you stopped and parked, why the counter starts from zero again until it gets the the job done? There's plenty on the internet about DPF, EGR and inlet manifold clogging.

If there's a mod. for the oil pump I would expect V.W to know about it because they made many thousands in this engine series and class action claims are now going through, even in U.K. Have you searched parts databases to see if the part has been changed for a revised version e.g on a 20012-2005 year version? You won't get much response here from our USA members because they have gasoline engined EOSs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looking this evening in my extensive service history, the dpf had already been regenerated three times the first was at 15k miles! It looks like the only previous owner did 5k miles or so a year and did short journeys. I'm seriously considering getting it remapped to iron out any diesel gate discrepancies. If I would have researched more on the diesel I probably would have just bought an older Eos with the older diesel or even a turbo petrol engine.

VW only supply the whole replacement part according to the forum which includes the 100mm cog shaft and a new oil pump. So essentially they upgraded it. Apparently it's over £1000. 100mm Shaft replacement and new cog is available via an aftermarket company that addressed the problem. Think it costs around £250 and then needs to be fitted.

I'll aim to do this at 90k miles if I have the car that long.

Wasn't aware of so many faults on this CR engine. Especially with the EGR, plastic inlet failure and the constant dpf regen problems. Luckily I run it on premium diesel and do longer drives than the previous owner.

Considering getting the rear module reflashed and selling it on now 🤦.
 

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Reflash to Stage one. :) Not sure yet what you mean about dpf regen. in the Service history. The engine automatically does a regen. about every 200 miles but varies because I think it has a damn real time clock and during lockdown with the car mostly parked, it wanted a regen. when I drove it. VCDS and a dealer can trigger a regen. cycle but I would only expect them to do this if there was a dpf fault logged or they could see due to short distance driving it never got the chance to complete a full regen. That suggests there could already be some clog build up, but at least you know what might put on the MIL light.

We now have to manage the regen. cycle. Her does mostly short driving cycles but now drives to a further away supermarket once a week now we can get out. She now knows if the fan runs after parking, she needs to do a long round trip to the supermarket. I don't think premium diesel makes much difference, but low SAPS oil and STP additive does a little. Since this engine has been unclogged and I turned around the EGR, it hasn't given any more problems. If you do declog and drive more miles, I don't think you will get the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Basically the dpf had been cleaned out by VW three times as it was clogged.
Would a stage 1 remap put more strain on the DMF and clutch? Not sure how much torque a stock vw DMF can take?
 

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When I did research I found some VAG group diesel engines of this size could be special ordered for new cars with more horsepower. They weren't going to design an existing engine and car transmission from scratch, so make your own conclusions. A Stage 1 remap has some variable options which you choose, from 'I want to use more power and spin the wheels to 'I'm interested in smoother running and better fuel economy'. Where you pitch the line and what you want determines the map you get. I'm assuming you aren't wanting aggressive tunes requiring parts to be removed or changed?

Actually the dpf isn't really all cleaned out, you get a stay of execution by doing forced dpf regens. but the generated ash content stays there. As mileage on a dpf goes up, even with normal regular regens, the retained ash level also goes up. Diagnostics can measure what's still in the dpf to give estimated % life to expiry. I think with normal regens they should go to 120k?

The 'clean out' procedure isn't magic, it just involves their diagnostics sending the trigger to initiate a regen. They either do it carefully on fast idle with fire extinguishers nearby, or drive the car for 20 minutes. At least with V.W FSH they actually found it and did the regens, but clogging could still come back in the emissions control system. A 2l turbo diesel didn't sound like the right engine for the POs driving pattern, they probably only considered diesel mpg when making their decision? Pour in some fuel additives.
 

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Can anyone confirm the 2.0 TDI CR needs a modification on the 76mm oil pump shaft as they're prone to wear and possible failure after 100k miles?
For that info, you'd need access to Volkswagen's TSBs. It might be that some info is more widely available on other forums, since the engine is obviously shared across a lot of other models and the Eos forum is very quiet in comparison to others.
 

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Yep, diesels sold mostly in U.K, E.U and AUS. When you have one of these EA189s you can get membership of the diesgate diesel action group to try and get some money back? I don't see much chance of money coming back on the older cars though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For that info, you'd need access to Volkswagen's TSBs. It might be that some info is more widely available on other forums, since the engine is obviously shared across a lot of other models and the Eos forum is very quiet in comparison to others.
Just given my engine number to the aftermarket supplier for the 100mm shaft mod. Apparently you have to drop the sump to see what size you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yep, diesels sold mostly in U.K, E.U and AUS. When you have one of these EA189s you can get membership of the diesgate diesel action group to try and get some money back? I don't see much chance of money coming back on the older cars though.
I'll look into the dieselgate website.
Looking into getting the old map file before the recall and demap.
Now in touch with a specialist to get the optimum 185hp remap done.

Need to sort rear module first to get the roof down then it's Krytox time. Nearly full bottle of it in the boot of the car when purchased, along with the genuine VW Eos travel cases. Still with labels and inserts so never used.
 

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Just given my engine number to the aftermarket supplier for the 100mm shaft mod. Apparently you have to drop the sump to see what size you have.
I would imagine the TSB has a detailed list of cars/engine numbers it applies to (or a lookup) so you don't need to drop the sump and look at the part.

TSBs are proprietary information which repair shops need to subscribe to and pay for, so I can't imagine much of the detail info would make it into the public domain.
 

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This link has all the info. Only an issue on pre-2009 so MY12 VAG EA189 engine isn't affected, or rather 'infected'.:)
Worn oil pump hex drive shaft on MY09 2.0 TDI

I bet it's a standard size metric hex and a solid Allen type hex key for a few dollars cut with a disc would be a better replacement if the sockets aren't worn? If it's square, then solid key steel would be my replacement choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This link has all the info. Only an issue on pre-2009 so MY12 VAG EA189 engine isn't affected, or rather 'infected'.:)
Worn oil pump hex drive shaft on MY09 2.0 TDI

I bet it's a standard size metric hex and a solid Allen type hex key for a few dollars cut with a disc would be a better replacement if the sockets aren't worn? If it's square, then solid key steel would be my replacement choice.

Yeah, will be getting mine done asap.
Kit costs £200. Probably another £200 to get it fitted as it looks like ball ache.
 

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I thought MY07 Tdi BMM 8 valve had very little space around it until I had to work on the CR diesel which is in an SUV with more space. I've got used to the EOS routine topside work to remove lots of parts just to get something out, but the CR engine has parts at the back e.g turbo and cooler even in a larger engine bay that need the sub-frame lowered and special 'alignment bolts' used so it goes back aligned. There must be even less room for the CR in the EOS?

Aparts from not meeting Euro 5 emissions, there haven't been too many horrendous issues with the BMM PD 8 valve engines and mine runs sweet as a nut getting oil changes every 6K. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
23378

Thinking of splicing those 3 wires from the module and shorting them out to blank the memory, then re soldering them back?
Obviously whilst the battery is disconnected.
You think it would work?
 

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Won't work any better than leaving the battery disconnected and trying again after a day? The series protection diode, voltage regulator chip and capacitors on the memory voltage rail are all after the wiring connector. The only sure way is to remove the module, take the lid off the controller after it has rested an hour, then use a 10 ohm resistor to go around momentarily connecting ground tracks and pads to it. Then repower it cleanly via the battery without arcs and sparks. But seeing the work to remove it, a dealer reflash if it works is least hardship. But you have to accept it may be permanently damaged and won't recover, whatever you try.
 
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