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I have a 2010 Eos (USA). When I put the convertible top down, the entire cycle will complete, no error codes or anything, but the small flap that rests directly next to the headrests on the passenger side will flip back open, I have tried to manually close it, no luck. I took it in to the dealer to have it looked at and they said that the part needs replaced and it is $1500!!! Now, the top still works and $1500 to repair this FLAP is just not worth it to me, I can't seem to find anywhere else online where anyone is having this problem or a fix for it? My car has 44,000 miles and is past the bumper to bumper, I had purchased the "top of the line" extended warranty because the salesman said that it would cover the top...well this is an "uncovered" part, of course.

I can't find any Volkswagen repair places in the area that will do work on the top besides the dealer.

Any ideas? I can still cruise topless, but that little flap bothers ME, no one else seems to notice but it is not the aesthetic look I want.
 

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I currently have the same problem, but it's on the driver's side. I took it into the dealer (purchased certified preowned) and they said it had something to do with the pin. It was working fine for a few days, but now it remains open again.

What ended up happening with yours?
 

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The first time I took it in they said it was the pin...they fixed it and it worked for a few cycles then stuck open again...not even a week later I took it back and that is whsn they said the whole mechanism would need replaced...not covered and $1500. I have been hunting for another fix but I havent found a thing. There is one other post on this forum about a stuck open flap...they said they fixed it for less but then they never say how :( let me know if you find out anything. I would love for it to be fixed but 1500$ is a lot for that flap. :eek:/
 

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This is not the part I am having problems with...my part is when the top is is completely down the flap pops back open...no fabric or strings in the area.

Some photos would be of assistance so we can see the problem and identify likely causes.
 

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There is a mechanism including 2 pieces of V shape metal attached to each other with a hinge and spring. This then attached to the plastic lap. While the flap is still opened, have a look in these thing and check if they stuck or not. Also try to spray some oil to that hinge and spring location may help.

Also there is a strut which lifts up the flap and pulls it down nearby. Check to make sure it's not falling out of place and electrical wiring is good.
 

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This is the problem child flap. Refuses to go down...they have reset the pin a few times and it pops back out. :(

I still think this is a actuation cable problem - probably the cable anchor on the other end of the cable has either come loose or dropped off or the cable itself is broken.

The cable appears to be properly attached to the flap so the problem is most likely at the opposite end.
 

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The plastic cover (what we call the flap) is adjustable. There is a video and pictures of adjustment in another thread. Sorry, I don't have a link. It requires the roof to be open or partially open.
 

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I revisited posts in this thread because I think there's an issue unconnected with alignment. The most common problem is the flap sticks closed, which as others said can be the edge of the flap catching on the trim and sticking. This problem IS fixed by adjustment and getting a clearance gap all the way around the flap.

However, the OPs problem seemed to be the flap stuck open and not closing? The flaps are connected to a wire bowden cable that runs to each hinge in the trunk left and right side. The cable is pulled and the flap closed by a simple cam on the roof hinge - no motors or hydraulics. To see what is going wrong you need to remove the hinge trim covers to check the flap cable is anchored and being pulled around the cam as the hinge moves. Alternatively, as the roof starts the operation segment to pull the flaps closed, check there is tension on each flap to pull it closed against their springs. You can also remove a flap and its bracket, hang it down the side clear of the roof, operate the roof then watch it open and close with the Bowden cable.
 

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I currently have the same problem, but it's on the driver's side. I took it into the dealer (purchased certified preowned) and they said it had something to do with the pin. It was working fine for a few days, but now it remains open again.

What ended up happening with yours?
Yea its a pin,im goin thru same situation on my 2010 eos:unsure:
 

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I had my roof open and in pieces doing a lot of work. At some stage days later I disconnected the wire to keep the flap open for access inside. Unfortunately, I forgot the flap was open, disconnected and lowered the roof down over it. This is what can happen to others if the wire isn't pulling the flap down! There was an ominous plastic crunch, something had broken and the open flap no longer sat level.

I tore the flap apart and found part of the plastic hinge pin mechanism on which it pivots had broken. It's quite tedious getting the flap apart and back together correctly because you are fighting the spring. I wasn't going to spend a lot of money replacing it and was able to make some parts from stainless steel to repair/replace broken plastic and put it back together. I didn't write down how I repaired it, it was just one of those nuisance events holding up my other work. From memory a long steel pin (1/8"?) gets bent and the plastic moulded supports for it breaks.

If you aren't prepared to repair a damaged flap like I did, then I think you have to buy a genuine replacement? I now always watch for both flaps pulling down during a roof op. because I know how easily they can be damaged (crunched).

I've added a couple of photos I just found. You can see there are (two) pivot bars retained by plastic clips and these break allowing the bar to flop about. They push into slots on the back plate and may be available as spares? I suspect V.W intend them to break if the roof crunches them. You can see on photo 2 that I cut a short length of ptfe rod which I drilled to act as a guide for their rod. Then I turned a center groove to retain a black tywrap. You can do a pro job on a small lathe but ptfe is easy to turn and face in a drill chuck. You need to make notes, marks, and take photos at each stage of dissassembly because getting it all back together is a puzzle. So, it's not the 'Pin' everybody tells you that breaks, but the plastic clips holding it! I do see some small parts showing for the 'Roof bracing flap' (mounting clip) but you will have to ask a dealer a) If small parts are still listed and available. Otherwise you may have to buy an assembly?

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