[Lucid Nonsense]

If you're in the U.S. and haven't taken advantage of APR's sale (which ends on July 31st), you really should. Get thee to your local APR vendor.

I had the Stock, 91 Octane and 93 Octane programs installed, along with the security lockout and a few other things. Not cheap at $599, but the performance increase is truly impressive. 25% more HP, nearly 50% more torque. *Carefully* drove on secondary streets on the way home this afternoon, and I can't wait to get the Eos out on the highway!

 

[Darren]

I agree. The eos was fun before but now VERY FUN! Watch out for wheelspin out of first gear but it is a heck of a lot of fun in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. I think you'll be even more impressed with the 40-80mph passing power. When I did mine, their sale was 2 programs for $599 so I just did stock and 93octane. "Rex" and I have been messaging and hope to have another Virginia meet this fall. Hope we could meet up then!

 

[Lucid Nonsense]

We'll definitely try to join the Virginia Eos owners in the fall - sounds like fun.

I'd heard about the wheelspin potential in 1st, so I took it easy coming away from stoplights this afternoon. Had a few fun runs in the higher gears, at least as much fun as I could have without attracting Officer Bob's attention.

I have just over a week to figure out how to tell my wife that her daily driver now has slightly more power. She's on a business trip, and, darn the luck, left the Eos at home.

 

[Darren]

I didn't tell my wife about the tune She rarely drives the Eos, though. Remember you can always turn the tune back to stock when your wife is driving.

 

[rockcrag]

My APR dealer could not find the flash program for my 2012 Eos. He said maybe it is too early for the 2012. Any ideas anyone?

 

[PeterEos]

I had the same problem today. They don't have APR software for all the various 2012 ECU software versions. Were you able to find out your version? Turns out mine is 1121. Dealer is supposed to let me know when available and give me a raincheck for the sale because I had an appointment and spent a couple hours there today (70 miles from home). They have software for the ECU on many 2012 2.0 TSI engines, but not mine--not yet anyway. Bummed It wasn't until they tried to bench flash it that they discovered the lack of an appropriate version. C'mon APR, you're losing money!!!

P.S. The "Spring into Summer" sale is through August 3rd (tomorrow) so better get cracking!

 

[Slow&Easy]

I had the same problem. Went to tuner on July 26th and could not flash my version. Tuner uploaded file on my car and APR finished writing tune July 31st at 5:30pm. Had it installed August 1st at 10:00am.

You might want to check back with your tuner in the morning. Chances are mine might be the same as yours. If not it is worth the wait.

 

[rockcrag]

I went to a different APR dealer who uploaded my software from my ECU on his bench. I called APR. APR called me back a week later to say my software was ready and I had same dealer install it. It can no longer be called a "chick" car. I am still learning how to control the new beast. No more using the tubocharger to dart like a minnow. It now roars. How can I get better traction to unleash all of it without spinning my wheels?

 

[mickjane2]

I went to a different APR dealer who uploaded my software from my ECU on his bench. I called APR. APR called me back a week later to say my software was ready and I had same dealer install it. It can no longer be called a "chick" car. I am still learning how to control the new beast. No more using the tubocharger to dart like a minnow. It now roars. How can I get better traction to unleash all of it without spinning my wheels?

You could try putting tacks in the soles of your shoes so that you dont push to hard on the gas pedal lol.Mick

 

[Lucid Nonsense]

Better/wider tires, and stiffer springs would probably help. I can't wait until I can put a stickier set of tires on our Eos - the stock all-season ones don't grip very well at all. With the stock rubber it's almost futile trying to get on the boost in 1st gear (or even 2nd sometimes), but when the car is rolling in 3rd gear or higher, it will stay hooked up and really zoom.

 

[rockcrag]

My car came with R/S tires, rain and snow, i.e. winter tires (or year round tires) by Continental, which many new cars seem to come with. My APR tuner said they were not good enough for the increased HP. What about the springs? Has anyone replaced the springs? The front of the car jumps up when I gun it.
What is the point of just not pushing the accelerator so hard. I can set it back to stock to do that.

 

[silvershadow]

My car came with R/S tires, rain and snow, i.e. winter tires (or year round tires) by Continental, which many new cars seem to come with. My APR tuner said they were not good enough for the increased HP. What about the springs? Has anyone replaced the springs? The front of the car jumps up when I gun it.
What is the point of just not pushing the accelerator so hard. I can set it back to stock to do that.

In my earlier days as a revhead, it was possible to buy "anti-squat" bars which were a bar attached to the body shell and rear hub housing [invariably a live axle in those days] on the car. These worked when straight line drag racing but were not so welcome when driving normally as they changed the rear roll resistance and the centre of gravity of the car affecting the speed at which the car went from understeer to oversteer when cornering.

You can achieve the same effect by using inserts for the rear coil springs; these either go inside the spring or can be rubber pads inserted between the spring coils. Your ride comfort suffers as there is less available suspension travel before bump impacts cause the body to lift. There is no point in fitting these to the front springs as these expand rather than contract due to weight transfer when accelerating.

See the following links for more information:

http://www.towbex.net/www.towbex.net/info.php?p=12&pno=0

http://www.jegs.com/p/Prothane/Prothane-Coil-Spring-Inserts/762178/10002/-1

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_0406_antisquat_explained/viewall.html

A classic case of the engineers dilemma - "you don't get something for nothing" only compromises .

 

[Slow&Easy]

I also am not able to take full advantage of the increased torque and hp. I get wheel spin in first and second but in addition to that I get what feels like “wheel hop”. Has anyone else noticed this?

 

[rockcrag]

Yes, the wheels can jump from one side to the other. There is also "torque steer": if you let go of the steering wheel, the car will turn slightly to the right. Its nice to have the option to turn on more power than the car was designed to handle. My wife drives it slow and easy and gets more mpg than before the flash. Your choice. Sweet.

 

[Rybky]

I also am not able to take full advantage of the increased torque and hp. I get wheel spin in first and second but in addition to that I get what feels like “wheel hop”. Has anyone else noticed this?

I can spin the wheels in the dry in both 1st and 2nd with very little effort, and I don't even have the APR tune!! That is one thing, apart from the cost of it here, that is holding me back from getting it done - will I actually be able to use that extra power + torque?

Isn't the "wheel hop" the traction control? I get that in 1st but in 2nd if the wheels slip it seems smoother, the traction control light is flashing at me under both conditions. Keep meaning to turn off the traction control to see if it still jumps in 1st.

Adam

 

[mickjane2]

I can spin the wheels in the dry in both 1st and 2nd with very little effort, and I don't even have the APR tune!! That is one thing, apart from the cost of it here, that is holding me back from getting it done - will I actually be able to use that extra power + torque?

Isn't the "wheel hop" the traction control? I get that in 1st but in 2nd if the wheels slip it seems smoother, the traction control light is flashing at me under both conditions. Keep meaning to turn off the traction control to see if it still jumps in 1st.

Adam[/QUOTE
If you fit wider wheels and tires to gain better traction you must take other things into consideration. ie. The transmission (clutch, drive shafts and gearbox) all start operating at the upper limits of the design specs, also the extra weight under braking and cornering forces exerted on the suspension and hubs can cause premature failure to any of the above components. What a lot of people don't realise is that the extra traction also has a considerable affect on breaking. The front brakes become more efficient (which will increase wear and tear on those parts) and the rear brakes will need to be reduced in efficiency due to the extra weight transference to the front or they will be trying to lock up earlier under heavy braking. So you pays your money and you takes your choice as the say IMHO. Mick

 

[Darren]

If anyone is interested, APR is on sale again now 9/24/12-10/14/12.