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1,065 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, some technical details.

The Eos never had an option of a reversing camera, but since the boot release emblem is the same size as the one used on other VWs, you can retrofit it. The one from the Golf 6 fits and is the same style; you should be able to use newer ones that have an updated style (more angles on the chrome part; shiny background). Boot releases and reversing cameras end 827469 so you can search using various models (3G0 and 3AA for newer Passats; 5K0 for the Golf 6). Just check that what you're getting has the camera, as you can't add a carmera to the regular boot release.

There are two kinds of reversing camera setup: "low" (no control module) and "high" (with a control module and more functionality, like lines that move to show your trajectory). I decided to install the version with the control module, which has some advantages, but does give your car an identity crisis (you have to tell it to pretend it's a Tiguan) that has to be resolved by manually setting the model in other modules. Wiring looms for both high and low versions are readily available from China (link to the one I used in "you will need" below). Obviously I can't tell you if the wiring loom for the "low" camera will be long enough. Bear in mind that these wiring looms will not be designed for the Eos and you have a long run of wire through the tailgate/roof hinges!

The emblem camera is interesting, as the wiring for the camera is completely separate from the release and motor mechanism. In addition to the two wires for the release switch, the motor needs a permanent power source and a signal line from the reversing light; it opens when the reversing light goes on, and closes after a delay when the reversing light goes off. The camera has a Fakra wire for signal, and a 2-pin power cable. The control module converts the composite signal from the camera to an RGB signal for the head unit. This means you can't use a "high" camera in the "low" setup and vice versa.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, the "low" emblem camera is rather different - it has a 4-pin-plus-ground Fakra connector and sends the RGB signal directly to the head unit. The camera draws its power from the same permanent source and trigger from reversing signal as the emblem motor.

A few notes: This retrofit is very slightly destructive, in that you will have to drill a drain hole in the boot lid lip. If you line it up with the other rubber stoppers it won't look out of place. This retrofit follows the golden rule of thou shalt not cut, splice or otherwise modify the factory wiring loom but the Chinese wiring loom for the camera does require some modification. Overall, the process will take less than a day. This guide is for LHD cars; RHD may be different. There may not be space for the camera module where I have it if your car has Dynamic Chassis Control. If you are contemplating retrofitting OPS and need to add the wires for it, you should add the wires for OPS now to make your life easier. Just insulate the ends of the wires you run.

This is quite a satisfying retrofit. It costs €750 to get the full kit from somewhere like, but by using used parts and a wiring loom from Aliexpress I put it together for a little over €200. The newer emblems often sell for less, but I think the older ones look better.

0. You will need
RNS310, 315 or 510, or RCD510, with the 26-pin RGB input on the rear
Gateway that knows about rear view cameras (the 7N0 version definitely will)
T20 and T25 drivers
Nylon trim removal tool
Soldering iron and heat gun, or other means of joining wires together
Crimp tool
VAG diagnostics (VCDS or OBDeleven)
Drill and 8mm bit
JPT pin removal tool
10mm socket
One wiring loom (it's noted as being compatible with the CC)
One reversing camera (e.g. 5K0827469R) complete with drain tube
One control module 5N0907441
One 2.8mm JPT female connector
One 2.8mm JPT male connector
One JPT plug
One JPT socket
Roughly 1m of 0.5-1mm2 wire
Heatshrink tube
Cloth tape
0.5m of 5mm inside diameter PVC tube and matching connector
Two mini fuses (5A should do)
Four thick sticky pads (I used sticky Velcro pads)

1. Preparation
Remove the following trim:
  • luggage compartment cover - with the cover up, pull the tab out from the mount on the left-hand side, then move the left side forward and out, then move the cover to the left.
  • tailgate lid trim - ten annoying plastic screws, bash a T20 screwdriver into them to get more torque; and two T25 metal screws hidden in the grab lip
  • tailgate lip trim - remove the warning triangle, undo the two plastic screws, remove tailgate seal, lift up
  • luggage compartment trim on left - undo the two annoying plastic screws at the bottom, one by the rear light and one at the top roughly half way back that's almost hidden by the hinge mechanism, and the big rubber stop on the base of the right-hand side. Lift the trim up, but don't remove it completely
  • back seat (yank up and then forwards),
  • rear left side trim (T20 screw by the seat belt, T25 screws at the bottom, lift forward, up and out, remember to disconnect the tweeter),
  • rear kick trim (yank upwards),
  • bonnet release (prise retaining thing out with a flathead screwdriver, remove bonnet release handle, undo flathead retaining screw, pull out),
  • panel under steering wheel (remove two T20 screws, lower and pull towards you),
  • small glove box (open, push sides inwards, yank out),
  • dash end trim (prise open with flathead screwdriver),
  • radio trim (prise out with nylon trim removal tool).
2. Understand the wires
Unravel the main wiring loom. It has three "ends": a 2-pin connector for camera power, a connector with three rows of pins for the camera module together with a ground wire, and a bundle with a power wire, the CAN wires, and a connector with two rows of pins for the head unit.
Unravel the tailgate lid wiring loom. It has two loose wires: a blue one for the reversing light, and a red and yellow one for permanent power.
Additionally, you have a Fakra cable for the signal.

3. Tailgate lid installation
I didn't do it in this order, but this is the safest way to ensure you have enough wire.
Unplug the release switch and undo the three screws holding the old emblem in place. You may hit the problem of stuck screws, in which case deal with that.
Screw the new emblem in place. You may find that there are some plastic lugs around the edge that block the emblem sitting flush - if so, just cut them off with a Stanley knife, scalpel or similar.
Before you attach the wiring loom, check the wiring colours on the 2-pin plug match the wiring colours on the factory wiring for the release switch. You may need to swap them around - I did.
Now plug the 2-pin plug on the tailgate lid wiring loom into the release switch connector, and the 4-pin connector into the new emblem.
Connect one end of the Fakra connector to the emblem.
Connect the 2-pin power connector from the main wiring loom to the emblem.
Route these two wires, along with the red and yellow power wire, to the left tailgate hinge, using cloth tape around existing wiring to hold it in place.
Now we're going to tap into the reversing wire, and we're going to do it properly, without modifying the factory loom. Cut a short length (10cm or so) off the blue reversing light wire. Strip both ends, and the end from the wiring loom. Join this end and one end of the short length together by crimping them on to a JPT male connector. Crimp a JPT female connector on to the other end of the short length. Insert the JPT male connector into the JPT socket. Now unplug the reversing light, remove the signal wire (the one that's not brown) from the connector and replace it with the loose end of the camera wiring loom that you just crimped. Insert the loose wire from the reversing light into the JPT plug, and connect the plug and socket together.
Now for the drain hole. Remove the drain tube, and look at the tailgate assembly. We're going to route the tube through the hollow section of tailgate, ensuring is on a constant downward path. First, looking at the inside of the tailgate, drill an 8mm hole going into the hollow section on the left. Next, from the outside, look at where the two stoppers are, and in line with these, slightly right of the tailgate lock, drill an 8mm hole upwards, going into the same hollow section. For both these holes, wiggle the drill around a bit to make the hole just a tiny bit wider.
Poke a spare piece of wire up from underneath and route it through the other hole you made. Slide the piece of PVC tubing over the wire until it pokes out of the hole in the bottom of the tailgate.
Attach the connector and the drain hose from the emblem to this PVC tubing and feed it back through (pushing and pulling at the same time, to keep the connection intact) until the drain tube sits where it should.
Cut the PVC tube to length and attach it to the drain connector on the emblem.

3. Wiring the hinge
This is going to be tight. You have just enough wire on the Fakra and the camera power to do it.
Unclip the trim from the tailgate lid and the hinge, route the wires through, then replace the trim. Ensure that the wire is exactly as slack as the wire bundle you're routing alongside.
Route the wire along the next hinge arm. Prise the cover up a little, just enough to secure the wires underneath it. Maybe push the wires in with your nylon trim tool - again ensuring exactly the right amount of slack.
Now route the wire down alongside the others, to the rear end of the car. Use cloth tape to hold the wires in place.
Finally, route the wires along the left side of the car, past the roof connector. You'll see a couple of bolts sticking out where some optional module that I don't have goes - that's where we want the camera module to end up.
While you're here, attach the earth wire to the grounding point to the rear of the car from the roof controller - remove the nut with your 10mm socket, slip the eye of the earth wire over, and tighten the nut.

4. Mounting the camera
Plug the big connector and the Fakra connector into the camera module. For the big connector, flip the white retainer open, then push the connector in. When the retainer starts to move, flip it over so it closes securely. Now find a good place to mount the camera module between those two bolts, stick the sticky pads to the camera module, then put it in place and press hard to affix.

5. Routing the wires to the front - and a small modification
Bundle up the power wire from the emblem, the CAN wire, the power wire for the camera module, and the wire for the head unit. You could wrap a plastic bag around them and tape it tight, because these need to all make their way through.
Push the bundle through the round hole that has what looks like a plastic bag stuffed in it. The bundle needs to go left and down.
Now go around to the back seat. Remove the foam sound insulation from around the speaker and pull the wires through as far as you can. Go back around and check there's a little slack on the wire to the camera module, so you can easily remove it if need be.
Route the wires following the existing wiring bundle under the speaker and wrap tape around.
Unbundle the wires. You will now see that the power wire from the emblem isn't long enough. Cut it and solder in an additional length that will be enough to get to the dashboard fuse box. Don't forget the heatshrink tube!
Route the wires along the side of the car, following existing wiring bundles. The two power wires need to be by the dashboard fuse box; the CAN wire at the front right of the driver's footwell, and the head unit wire needs to head towards the head unit.

6. Head unit connection
Undo the four T20 screws holding the climate control panel in and pull it forwards and down. You'll need to do this to get access to poke the wire up towards the head unit.
Undo the four T20 screws holding the head unit in and slide it forward - don't pull it out yet.
Route the head unit connector up to the head unit and plug it in - it has a locking connector similar to the one for the camera module.
Reinstall the Climatronic unit and head unit.

7. CAN modification
Get into the car backwards: stick your head in the footwell and look up and left. You'll see a red plug connected to the gateway. Unplug it and slide the connector apart, prising the retainer with a flathead screwdriver.
Swap pins 10 and 20 on the gateway plug with the two loose CAN wires, matching their colours.
Put the pins from the gateway plug into the plug on the camera harness, matching the colours. Now connect the plug and socket together.
Reassemble the gateway connector and plug it back in.

8. POWERRR! </clarkson>
Remove the two screws holding the cabin fuse box in place. On the back, prise open the retaining clip at the upper left, and press down on the tab at the bottom. The purple lock should slide open.
Find a spare ignition-switched fuse location (equipment varies but the top row is usually switched) and insert the red and white wire from the camera module.
Find a spare permanent fuse location (equipment varies but the third row is usually always-on - fuse 16 or 17 should be free) and insert the red and yellow wire from the emblem.
Close the purple lock and screw the panel back in place.

9 Coding, and an identity crisis
Using VCDS or OBDeleven, go to the gateway (module 19) and add the reversing camera (module 6C) to the installation list.
Now go into the long coding, and set the body type (bits 4-7 of the last byte) to Offroad (60). If you don't do this, the camera will refuse to work and will throw a fault code "incorrect software version". Now your car has an identity crisis!
If you have mk6 or mk7 Climatronic controls, go into long coding and set the body type (in byte 0) to Eos, rather than "determine via CAN", so that at least your Climatronic doesn't think you have a Tiguan.
Now go into the RNS coding, and set byte 6 (RNS31x) or byte 9 (RNS510) to 0E to resolve the identity crisis and make the graphics for balance/fader and parking sensors show the Eos.
Go into all the other modules and clear the faults you'll have triggered by unplugging the gateway.

10. Testing
Close the tailgate. Turn the ignition on (no need to turn the engine on).
Engage reverse gear. You should hear a whirring sound from the back of the car (the motor popping the camera out); shortly after, you should get the camera image on the display.
Turn the steering wheel a little. You should see that the lines on screen move.
Put the car back into neutral. After a while, the image will disappear and the camera will whirr shut.

11. Reassembly
Reassemble everything listed in section 1 in the reverse order to how you removed them.

1,065 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Next step: how to calibrate the camera so that the reversing lines exactly match where the car's going to go. Watch this space!

1,065 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Now, after many attempts and more research than anyone else would care to do (no really, I can't find anyone who has got this far), I have the Tiguan reversing module calibrated with an emblem camera!

The reason this is hard is that the Tiguan module is expecting the camera to be mounted roughly 72cm above the ground, and the badge camera mounted in the Eos is 85cm above the ground. The calibration process seems to expect the size of the board to be within certain bounds, and if it's outside these it won't work. This process will give you reversing lines that are pretty much spot on - I tried reversing out of the driveway and it was accurate enough about whether I was going to hit the kerb, far more so than before calibrating.

Others retrofitting the Tiguan module have the same problem with calibration not working, and my advice would be to find a CC (3C8), Passat (3C0) or Sharan (7N0) camera module, in that order of preference, as you should not have to do this hack to make it work. They may come with other issues - the Passat and Sharan versions don't have emblem cameras; the CC and Passat have a longer wheelbase than the Eos and the Sharan much longer still - and it seems like others on the internet don't have the same problems with these.

You will need:
  • VAS5054 with ODIS (you may be able to make this work with VCDS or OBDeleven too - I didn't try because, after tens of failed attempts, I'll take my success)
  • A flat floor to park your car on with 2.5m behind it, in the shade or indoors
  • A means of creating a 1900x700mm flat surface at least 10cm above the floor (I used some polystyrene blocks)
  • A DIY calibration board, because $3000 for a VAS6350 calibration board is a bit steep (for which: 30 sheets of A4 paper and a 1900x700mm board)
  • A tape measure
  • Charged battery
  • A lot of patience (or, if unavailable, luck is an acceptable substitute)

Making the calibration board
The calibration board is basically a big double-six domino. The attached PDF can be printed; it must measure 1900x700mm. You could just go to a print shop and get it done, but you can also print it out at home. The easiest way to print the board across multiple pages is to insert it into your favourite spreadsheet program, set the size in the spreadsheet, then print the whole spreadsheet across multiple pages, cut off the bottom and right margins of each sheet and line them up, then stick the result on to a board.
  • If you print on to A4 portrait, set the vertical margins on the page bigger than normal, so that you get bits of the domino spots on all pages. If you leave the default margins in place, it's difficult to line up the bottom row and get the distance between the dots right.
  • If you have an inkjet printer, you will probably find that the black is not black enough and you will have to either colour or paint it in. I went around the edges with a permanent black marker and filled in the middle with poster paint.

Preparing for calibration
  • Establish a 10-15cm high platform for the calibration board, starting roughly 160cm back from the centre of the rear wheels.
  • Put the calibration board on the platform, measure its height in millimetres
  • Line the centre of the calibration board up with the centre of the emblem
  • Measure from the centre of the rear axle to the start of the black edge of the calibration board on both sides, ensure these are even, and take a note of the distance in millimetres
  • Turn on the ignition (don't start the engine), engage reverse gear and check that the top and bottom of the board appear perfectly horizontal on the screen. If you have OPS enabled, you will have some handy lines to line up against

Running calibration (ODIS)
  • Start ODIS, connect to the car and start Diagnosis.
  • When asked to identify the car, choose to identify manually and tell it you have a 2009 Tiguan. (Engine doesn't matter.)
  • Switch to "Control units", select the rear-view camera, then Guided Functions, then "Calibrate rear view camera".
  • Follow the instructions, noting the following:
* the Eos camera is mounted at a height of 850mm​
* subtract 26 from the rear axle distance, because the Eos has a shorter wheelbase​
* subtract 100 from the height of the calibration board, because otherwise the process won't work​
* Note: if calibration phase 2 fails, the rear view camera screen will come back on, but the ODIS process will not terminate. You will have to press "Done/Continue" and retry. When it succeeds, ODIS automatically proceeds to "Calibration was successful".

Running calibration (VCDS)
* Follow these instructions, noting the following:
* the Eos wheelbase is 2578mm​
* subtract 100 from the value you write to adaptation channel 5​
* I didn't try it this way, so it may not work​


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