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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally got around to doing the front speaker upgrade. Similar to the installation in the rear, I chose the now discontinued Infinity Kappa 60.11CS 6.75" components, which are still available via Amazon and EBay. This include the passive crossovers, 3/4" soft dome tweeters and 6.75" midbass.

First step is to assemble your tools. Your going to need T20 torx and T30 torx to remove the bolts in the doors, a small hook tool to remove plastic bolt cover in the door handle pull, plastic pry tool and preferably, a panel removal tool for the clips holding the door panel on. You can search for procedures on how to remove the door panels, many videos available.

If your going to follow my installation, you would need a Dremel type rotary tool with a cutting/grinding bit, hot glue gun, Super 33 3M aerosol glue, speaker wire, knife, crimp caps, crimping tool, soldering gun, duct tape, wire ties, pliers, power drill, drill bits, rivet tool and rivets

Ok, so you removed the door panel. Chances are the upper interior plastic piece has come loose from the actual door card, possibly the plastic handle pull. Seems VW didn't use a quality glue here or it just doesn't have the longevity. If this is the case, you should remove the old glue and use the 3M Super 33 glue applied to both surfaces to glue these pieces back. I also followed up that with using liberal amounts of hot glue to ensure these plastic pieces don't come off the door card again. (See first set of pictures)

You should also purchase some of the door panel clip before hand. Chances are, some will break upon removal. 10pcs Door Trim Panel Moulding Clips Retainer Fastener for Volkswagen Jetta T5 | eBay

Moving on, first your going to remove the lower door speaker. Disconnect the wiring plug first. The speakers are pop riveted in place, so you need to drill these out. This may take some time, so be patient.

Next, remove the tweeter pod by disconnecting its wiring harness. Use your pry tool to pry up the bottom tab, then you should be able to pull it towards you to remove it.

Going back to the lower door speaker, were going to use it as a mounting base for the Infinity Kappa 6.75 mid base. So start by cutting out the stock speaker cone using a knife, then pull the entire speaker cone out, along with the voice coil. You should be left with just the frame (see pictures). You will need some wire cutters to cut the metal speaker tabs away from the magnet. Look at the pictures before making any cuts. At this point, note which of the tabs is positive and which is negative, use a Sharpie to mark this on the actual female connector base. Now this is where your Dremel tool with cutting bit is needed, you will be cutting away the plastic supports for the magnet and then smoothing out the insides of the assembly. Follow the pictures. When your all done, you will have a nice OEM mount to use with the Infinity Kappa. The Infinity Kappa set comes with adapter rings, we are going to use these and mount them to the OEM speaker base. The adapter rings will need to be trimmed down to fit inside the OEM speaker base. You will need some screws and washers here. Once in place, use your hot glue to fill all the unneeded holes. If you look at the pictures, you will see little arrows pointing to holes, don't fill these with hot glue, you will be using them to mount the Infinity Kappa speaker. Now before you mount the speaker, you need to solder speaker wire onto the OEM speaker base tabs, make sure you get the positive and negative situated correctly as shown in the pictures. Use can use a 9v battery to test speaker functionality. If you pop the speaker with the battery, the cone should move OUTWARD. Once this step is complete, you can mount the speaker with four screws and again use hot glue to seal any gaps. We are done with the midbass at this point.

Moving on to the tweeter. The factory tweeter is 3/4, the same as the Infinity. Remove the foam backing. The OEM tweeter/capacitor is held in place with plastic tabs which are overlaid with silicone. Your going to need a knife to cut the silicone away so you can pry the OEM tweeter up (don't break the tabs) and remove the capacitor. Once you have them out, try to remove as much of the left over silicone as possible. The Infinity tweeter has a grill protecting the soft dome, we don't need it, so you can pry up the tabs holding the grill in place and work around the tweeter till you can remove the grill. Now the Infinity won't snap into the OEM tweeter pod, but its a very good fit, work the tweeter till it sits flush in the OEM tweeter pod opening. The tabs won't lock into the Infinity tweeter, so you will need to go around the tweeter with some hot glue to ensure it stays in place. You can now put the foam piece back into the pod, were done with the tweeter for now.

At this point, you can reinstall the woofer into the door and pop rivet it into place. Remember the wiring plug goes on the top. Remember to reinstall the plastic trim ring with the rubber seal (That isn't shown in any of the pictures)

We still have to mount the Infinity cross over. I chose to mount it where the OEM mid range speaker would be (for Dynaudio equipped vehicles) but you need to break out the Dremel again and remove some of the plastic mounting tabs as shown in the pictures. This may leave a hole in the plastic panel, so you can use some duct tape to seal up the hole. We only need to remove the one tab. Since this surface isn't level, I chose to use a liberal amount of hot glue on the back of the cross over to secure it in place. I followed this up with more liberal amounts of hot glue around the outside of the cross over.

You can at this point reinstall the tweeter pod, letting the wiring hang down.

Now as for the wiring, let me try to explain how VW set this up. Signal from the head unit goes directly into the midbass, then it goes out of the midbass up to the tweeter. So the midbase wiring plug has four wires, two positive and two negatives. Wiring colors are all over the place, I even found a positive and a negative using the exact same color of wiring (brown with red stripe). So hopefully during your conversion of the speaker pod, you noted which wires were positive and which were negative. You will need to strip back some of the black tape covering the wiring harness, as you will be cutting the main signal wires. If you strip back the tape far enough, you will see that the wiring splits off, two go further back into the harness, these are the main signal wires and two go to the tweeter. You will be cutting the positive/negative wires that come from the radio. Make sure you leave enough wiring to the OEM plug, so you can splice additional speaker wire onto it. So the signal from the radio needs to have speaker wire spliced onto it and that will be fed to the INPUT of the crossover. The WF output of the cross over will go to the positive/negative of the woofer plug. You now can cut a length of speaker wire, connect it to the TW output of the crossover and route it up to your tweeter and spice it onto your tweeter. The other two wires in the midbass plug don't need to be touched.

Test functionality before you put the panel back on and make sure to wire tie/route all of the wiring so it does not get pinched or pulled during the door panel installation.

The difference between the OEM speakers and the Infinity Kappas is night/day. I do wish the RCD330 had more sound contouring ability then just bass/mid/treble, some time alignment and a parametric eq would be helpful in tuning.
 

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