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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2013 EOS. It turned on and drove perfectly during the test drive. I give the guy my money and drive it around some. I stop for gas and when I go to turn it back on. I turns on and immediately turns off again. I hit the start button again and it fires right up. I get home and leave it parked for a few hours. Then I go out hop in and it just keeps turning over but no start. I stop it and hit the start button again and it fires right up.

Has anyone else had this issue? the car only has 60k miles on it and is in awesome shape. I would hate to think I got a bad deal here.
 

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I stop it and hit the start button
Is that 'keyless ignition'? I've read a few problems with that. Your car might need a diagnostics scan to see if any faults have been stored. Shame you hadn't done that before handing over the money.
 

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Is that 'keyless ignition'? I've read a few problems with that. Your car might need a diagnostics scan to see if any faults have been stored. Shame you hadn't done that before handing over the money.
Yeah, I would normally have pre buy inspection done but the car was a long way from my house. The guy seemed honest and was like 73. I figured with 60k miles it should be ok. I am going to take it in to the dealer today and have them read the codes.
 

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Well. The dealer said they were open today. But the service department is closed. I am wondering if it is a fuel issue.
 

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Sounds about right: Try to sell cars during Coronavirus lockdown, but don't try and fix them. Although I thought service shops were still running to service 'important' vehicles and you only need 10 minutes (1/2 hour charged) for a scan? If local, try turning up personally with some beer!
 

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So the dealer said there were no codes. They did a cap discharge and sent me on my way. It was good for about a day and it started doing it again :( I am kinda thinking fuel pump or fuel pump control module based on stuff I read online. Is there there a good way to test that with it being an intermittent issue?
 

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Lol not sure I paid $95 for the cap discharge and key reprogramming. They said they want to look at it again. I am tempted to take it to my normal mechanic instead.
 

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So the dealer said there were no codes.
I know computer diagnostics isn't perfect, but anytime I suspect something I will always find a code. In fact I'm always surprised after 2 months between scans if I get a clear scan, because there's usually some glitch that can pop up and then clear without coming back.

They did a cap discharge and sent me on my way.
I had to look that up, but basically they did a clear codes and reset which might be nothing more than a battery disconnect and reconnect. When a competent workshop does this their next step should be to see if any of the same or similar fault codes come back? If they do, the fault first seen is real and not ghost. IMHO you should take control of the next step:

Rather than put your trust in the selling dealer whose angle is to spend time selling the next car, take your EOS to another garage with V.W diagnostics equipment, pay for a scan with dated print out which will include mileage, but tell them NOT to clear any fault codes they find. Nothing wrong though in asking what a problem might be and have it written on your diagnostics request paperwork? If there are fault codes, take the print out and any other info you got to your selling dealer and get confirmation from their diagnostics scan.

Lol not sure I paid $95 for the cap discharge and key reprogramming.
That's new. I have this other VAG car with a persistent fault that has never been solved. It had one remote key programmed in the ECU and IMMO. and all was fine. Then we ordered a second remote key and they had to re-program the IMMO and ECU (you can have 3 or 4 keys programmed). Ever since, this car will occasionally fail to start putting up an IMMO error on the dash. My suspicion is cold morning lower voltage battery corrupting the key code exchange. If they remove the second key from coding, there is no intermittent starting fault. I am convinced it's an ECU firmware design version fault but you are in their hands. Every time I do a scan, I see a history of multiple 'event' times when this happened - they are all stored in the ECU and picked up by a scan. My Stealer offered me 2 options: Cheapest was to replace the ignition lock which has the built in wireless pickup, or replace the dash unit for £600 + labor. Well, for much less than the last price, I can get shot of the immo. with an ECU patch and a Stage 1! I've not done anything about it as Summer has been o.k. but I know the Gremlin is still there.
 

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Oh just to set the record straight I bought the car private party.
Oh, you might be on your own then - 'Sold as Seen' as they say? If the problem is linked to the immobiliser only a V.W Stealer or auto locksmith will have the software tools to do any reprogramming. Other faults like fuel or general engine and you would be o.k. If there's a problem with a starter switch button or poor battery connection, they may not show up as a faults.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The starter button was replaced by another dealer the last owner was having issues where he had to press the button a bunch to get it to crank that being done wrong was one of my theories. I thought the dealer was going to look at that but I guess he was unable to replicate the problem so he just did the cap discharge.
 

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Well you now have a few ideas from me that link back to some previous history? As I said, if 'initiator' buttons, controls, relays or wiring are intermittent, diagnostics won't report because that's just like (on a key start) turning the key several times to start the car because the ignition switch was intermittent. Nothing in diagnostics can tell you how many attempts were made to start a car normally and if it stops due to the same problem, there's no fault stored because it's just like turning off the key whilst driving along.
 

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I just purchased a 2013 EOS. It turned on and drove perfectly during the test drive. I give the guy my money and drive it around some. I stop for gas and when I go to turn it back on. I turns on and immediately turns off again. I hit the start button again and it fires right up. I get home and leave it parked for a few hours. Then I go out hop in and it just keeps turning over but no start. I stop it and hit the start button again and it fires right up.

Has anyone else had this issue? the car only has 60k miles on it and is in awesome shape. I would hate to think I got a bad deal here.
I have a 2013 Lux with 75K miles with pb start. Sometimes it doesn't start when I push the button. If I push down on the brake pedal harder and try again (while holding brake pedal down) it usually starts.
 

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I have a 2013 Lux with 75K miles with pb start. Sometimes it doesn't start when I push the button. If I push down on the brake pedal harder and try again (while holding brake pedal down) it usually starts.
The problem as you describe it seems quite common. Fortunately I have an old fashioned key. But I do have a 2012 VAG which has the clutch pedal linked to the normal type ignition switch. The clutch pedal has to be down to start the car. It sounds as though 'button start' could be along similar lines where another pedal has to be pressed at the same time (owners manual?). Being a button it would be so easy for a little kid left messing about in the car to start it, so I'd expect it to be interlocked. In that case any issues with the interlocked pedal could stop the car starting. But from this V.W video it could be more complicated. The video says 'I would never want to be without their new Keyless entry and push button start stop system' so I will explain why I wouldn't want it.

1. The key fob (in your pocket) is activated and read by your car when you get close to it so it has to be linked to both door locks and the engine immobiliser - That's fraught with potential radio intereference and hacking problems. Try it out parked next to a high power shortwave transmitter!
2. Assuming the wireless key fob code and electronic keys can be read and exchanged correctly, you can get into your car when the immobiliser (flashing led) and alarm should be disabled authorising you to push the button start.

Pushing the button seems to need another action like pressing down on the accelerator or brake. Not only could you have an intermittent starting button, but the brake or clutch down pedals will need a switch or sensor to confirm they are operated. If all that works, the starter will have a power relay that has to come on and supply power to the starter motor. If the starter motor has bad brushes, all these other things might work, but the starter motor won't always crank and there will be no fault codes.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I am taking it back into the dealer on thursday. They said they had been unable to replicate the issue so I have recorded it. Figured I would post them here too.

Cranks But Won't Start.
https://youtu.be/AGWH0EMQGzo

Turns on and off again.
 

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Why are there warning 'dings' when it cranks but won't start and why does it start after they stop? I'm sure the dealer will put you right although your vid. isn't sharp enough to show the MFD messages. Everything on the dash can give clues. They can't do much if the fault doesn't show up when you take it in and will still need their own confirmation. Either they will keep the car a couple of days and drive it around or rescan and see if anything is picked up.
 
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