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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Just bought a 2008 2.0 EOS. Fab condition, in a lovely dark blue. Took it for a lovely drive and enjoyed it a lot. Couple of issues, the main one is the passenger door won't open from the inside, lever seems loose and won't do anything. Opens from outside. Central locking etc all fine. So need to look into that. Secondly the speakers are poor, rear ones don't make any sound at all, so may have to look into changing those. Great car though! Any tips on the door would be appreciated :)

Happy new year everyone,

Jason, Gloucester UK
 

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Look for the drivers manual which should be in a tray at the top of the glovebox. Check the PO hasn't put the child locks on which is a common thing to do. Otherwise, you will need to remove the door card to check the steel wire Bowden cable that connects the door release lever to the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Look for the drivers manual which should be in a tray at the top of the glovebox. Check the PO hasn't put the child locks on which is a common thing to do. Otherwise, you will need to remove the door card to check the steel wire Bowden cable that connects the door release lever to the lock.
Thank you for taking the time to reply it's much appreciated. Going through the extensive service history it seems the PO had the cable replaced a year ago and had the door lock/latch fixed at s cost of £170 only 2 months ago? Peculiar...l
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not the child lock, how simple of a job is it to remove the door card and check? Again thanks for your time
 

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Somebody else here has the same problem. The site has a good search engine and will find most info for you already posted. When a door card is removed, the pull cable connecting the finger pull to the lock is attached and many let the card hang on the wire until they work out how to unhook it. There's a flimsy plastic part holding the outer cable sheath that can easily break. This means the inner wire and outer pull together so nothing moves. This happened to me and I wasn't going to the Stealer to buy the same flimsy flawed part as an expensive assembly costing a fortune. From memory I cut a small piece of stainless steel sheet, bent it at right angles to laminate and repair their plastic support. That won't ever break.

You should find info on removing a door card here:

The passenger side is easier because it has less wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks a bit complicated for me sadly, it's due a cambelt change in 10k miles so I may just get that done now and ask them to sort the door too at the same time. Dropped 3k on this which is small change to some but a huge investment for me so probably worth it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so have ordered some krytox and an obdeleven reader (1st gen as I use android and can buy the pro license if every required online). Should step away from the computer screen now not stopped reading!!
 

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Before you take the door card off.....Check its not just the "double lock" - press the "open" twice on the keyfob to additionally be able to open the passenger door and boot, on an Eos.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Before you take the door card off.....Check its not just the "double lock" - press the "open" twice on the keyfob to additionally be able to open the passenger door and boot, on an Eos.
Unfortunately not, the lever feel completely loose and unattached if that makes sense :-( just perplexed that mere weeks ago it was fixed accordingg to history and it's gone again!
 

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Unfortunately not, the lever feel completely loose and unattached if that makes sense :-( just perplexed that mere weeks ago it was fixed accordingg to history and it's gone again!
You can remove the inner door handle to see if the cable is actually attached to the lever. If it was reassembled in a hurry, its possible that the cable was not properly seated into the door handle and may of popped out. Easy enough to do as there is a small plastic tab hiding the screw, remove that and then the screw.
 

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If you read the link I posted on a decent screen not a phone, it tells you most of what you need to know without repeating what has already been posted. Removing trim parts without causing expensive damage is a way of life for DIY V.W repairs. I recommend reading the workshop manual procedures before starting anything, or let the dealer tech. fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you read the link I posted on a decent screen not a phone, it tells you most of what you need to know without repeating what has already been posted. Removing trim parts without causing expensive damage is a way of life for DIY V.W repairs. I recommend reading the workshop manual procedures before starting anything, or let the dealer tech. fix it.
Thank you, the guide you posted is superb and extremely helpful and again your support, direction and help is very much appreciated. If there is a way to remove the locking mechanism on the passenger side door without removing the whole door card I'll try that, otherwise a job for someone more able I feel having looked at your pictures (on my PC!) Or something to leave and attempt on the drive when this weather improves

Have really enjoyed learning about the car and reading many of the posts here

I didn't see an obvious way to remove just the door locking mechanism handle but 2phasts post have me an incline of hope that it may be possible

Best wishes all,

Jason
 

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You can but try. Even if you get the pull handle off, the disconnect will probably be at the far end on the lock?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yes, I think I'll wait until the weather clears up a bit, and use your guide to do it properly, slowly and methodically. I've been going through the history - which really is extensive I paid a bit more for this car than other examples due to its providence and condition. One thing i'm not entirely sure of is last September it has a "BIF change", I guess they could mean BLF (gearbox related I think?) Its nice to see how well it been looked after, there is no receipt for a new battery but the one in the car doesn't look like the stock/factory battery to me (platinum prestige) and no signs of any issues with the battery so I'll leave that well enough alone. The most recent service - 6 weeks ago - notes that its due a cambelt at 120k/60 months, its currently 101k, I may get that done now as cant see any evidence of previous changes and I'll get the water pump done at the same time. Brakes all been changed in last 18 months and well under 10k miles since, likewise with tyres (albeit cheap tyres..)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yes, I think I'll wait until the weather clears up a bit, and use your guide to do it properly, slowly and methodically. I've been going through the history - which really is extensive I paid a bit more for this car than other examples due to its providence and condition. One thing i'm not entirely sure of is last September it has a "BIF change", I guess they could mean BLF (gearbox related I think?) Its nice to see how well it been looked after, there is no receipt for a new battery but the one in the car doesn't look like the stock/factory battery to me (platinum prestige) and no signs of any issues with the battery so I'll leave that well enough alone. The most recent service - 6 weeks ago - notes that its due a cambelt at 120k/60 months, its currently 101k, I may get that done now as cant see any evidence of previous changes and I'll get the water pump done at the same time. Brakes all been changed in last 18 months and well under 10k miles since, likewise with tyres (albeit cheap tyres..)
Bif I think is B/F - brake fluid change..lol
 

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Dealerships can worry about giving previous history. I don't know why because data protection only applies to people not cars and even V.W like collecting service and warranty data on your car for commercial use without telling you.

In the past you could go to any V.W Stealer with your Reg. and VIN number and they could tell you history when work was done at genuine V.W shops, plus recalls and anything outstanding. For the cambelt and water pump I would try that first in case it has just been done? The other option is some weeks after your ownership is registered with DVLA you get back paperwork with some of the POs details. Not all POs are helpful on a cold call, but some who have moved on to another car and are still alive may be co-operative.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, great tips. The history with the car is impeccable though nothing missing from new in terms of servicing etc so if it had been done id imagine it would be here. Can't hurt to ask though!
 

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Dealerships can worry about giving previous history. I don't know why because data protection only applies to people not cars and even V.W like collecting service and warranty data on your car for commercial use without telling you.

In the past you could go to any V.W Stealer with your Reg. and VIN number and they could tell you history when work was done at genuine V.W shops, plus recalls and anything outstanding. For the cambelt and water pump I would try that first in case it has just been done? The other option is some weeks after your ownership is registered with DVLA you get back paperwork with some of the POs details. Not all POs are helpful on a cold call, but some who have moved on to another car and are still alive may be co-operative.
Yes, dealers will hesitate in giving you service history citing privacy issues. Simplest thing to do is ask the service advisor to cut/paste all the pertinent information into a Word doc or even into a email, that way you can get all the data you need without previous owners personal information.
 
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