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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sure I have seen a thread on this some place, but I am having difficulty tracking it.

When I have the roof down and I go over any uneven surface there is quite a knocking noise form just over my right shoulder, so for UK set up cars its on the driver side. You can hear it every now and then on the ofther side too but the road really has to be very poor to hear it on that side.

The noise seems to be somthing to do with the roof mechanism, I am sure I have seen a thread on this re dampers or somthing like that

Derek
 

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I assume you mean with the roof open??? I am not aware of anything which could make such a noise (that is roof related) when it is open, as it is stored pretty securely.

Each part of the roof package has rubber feet which sit on the panel below, so unless one is missing, you shuoldn't have any knocking from the roof. With the roof closed, that is a different issue!
 

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I've noticed that with the top down, IF the seatbelt is NOT running through the "loop" at the top of the seat, it vibrates as the speed increases. Semi annoying to the point where I always try to keep the "loop" clipped closed around the seatbelt.
 

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My roof had a loose bolt. There are 4 main bolts, and the dealer found that 1 of them was loose. We have really bad roads here in Honolulu Hawaii, and the vibration of pot holes and bumps may have caused it. It was serviced under warrantee.

Lopaka
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I assume you mean with the roof open

Yes when the roof is open

My roof had a loose bolt

I am not sure where or what is causing it at this time, but now I have accepted it is not right and the Uk weather is getting better by the day, it is getting more annoying by the day. Somthing seems to be loose and "knocking" about inside the panel along side the rear seating. I even thought it may have been the black folding panel on the top, the one which folds up and down when the roof goes up and down.

Anyway my other half is booking the car into the dealer for a couple of minor things (she works there), I am having "mud" flaps fitted too, I think the shaped Eos ones look quite good, especially as mine is a black car. The main reason is to restrict some of the mud splashing up the sides, one of the I roads take home is not clever.

I also have an annoying "wind" noise where the drivers door window and the small rear window joint is. I think the "rear" window needs some adjustment. nothing serious but annoying.

Derek
 

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Here's what happened with me:

I'd hear that knocking sound every now and then (top up or
down), and it sure was annoying. But it didn't seem that annoying
"enough" at the time.

Then I had my transmission issue, wherein it got replaced, and that
same day that I drove outta the dealer, I started hearing a loud,
annoying "popping" sound in the backseat (w top up). It sounded
exactly like popcorn popping -- a different sound than above. I drove
around the block and pulled back into the service dept. I explained the
noise, and the head mechanic hopped in the car and went for a ride. He
was stumped. He even hopped in the backseat while I drove, and he
still couldn't figure it out. I continued to drive, and then he requested
I drive back to the dealer. He worked on it, then came back out and
told me he "tried" something. We got back in the car and voila --
it disappeared!! :D He told me that he removed a shim from the roof.
Now, not only has that popcorn sound been eliminated, but I don't hear the
"original" knocking sound. Life is grand-er!!!
 

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I have similar sound and I think it’s vibration between front and rear window ( with the roof in the boot - open ).
When I place my finger on top of the connection of front and rear window and I gently push them apart the sound disappears.
It could be something to do with windows adjustment.
Does anybody have the same problem...?
 

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Sorted. I removed the bottom part of rear seat. Took off rear side panel. Removed the speaker with the base. Loosened the bottom nut of the rear window regulator. Loosened two top nuts of window reg. (13mm socket with extension) There is an adjustment on the lower bolt ( small Alan key inside the lower nut) This brings the window in or out. If you screw the Alan bolt in that takes top of the window more outside ( connection edge of front and rear window is tighter) This operation sorted the vibration/knocking sound between the two windows.
I hope this will help a lot of you.
Cheers...
Enjoy the job:)
 

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Enjoy the job
Careful: Don't go there until you read the shop manual first! If you start 'messing' with the alignment spacer screws you should understand how they are setting the glass to glass distances for which there are specific V.W measurements and tolerances. These not only set the front to rear glass distance gap so they don't touch each other, but also the glass location in the top seal that stops water running inside next time it rains. If you move the rear glass in-out too far, contact pressure on the vertical seal increases load on the window motor and regulator and the seal will start forming a pressure indentation. The EOS window glasses are curved and correct contact with the vertical seal and gaps must be checked as the glass rises from down to fully raised.

IMHO the best compromise is to get the horizontal gap distances and levels correct first to V.W spec., then only move the rear glass sufficiently inwards to get light pressure contact on the vertical seal which you can test with a smear of Krytox. This assumes the front glass alignment hasn't been messed with or not adjusted after a DIY regulator repair? The front glass alignment on both sides should be checked first before messing with the rear glass.
 
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