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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
I'm a new EOS owner, having purchased a super-clean 2008 for my wife about 9 months ago.

The first time it rained, there was water rushing in over the power-window controls every time we braked. A quick check of this forum & I had that issue sorted within 30 minutes - HUGE THANK YOU for those who took the time to show me the way to fix a blocked A-Pillar drain-tube.

Since then, everything's been rosey, had the roof down a stack of times over the summer, no problems at all.

Well summer is now almost past & we're starting to get some rain again (not that we didn't during summer mind you).

Now I notice that a HEAP of water is now coming in past the window seals when driving forward (obviously putting extra force on the water to push it past the seals).

I've removed all the trim to see just where it's coming in & it would appear 99.9% likely it's where the A-Pillar seal meets the roof-support seal above the front windows.

It looks like to me that there should be a significant amount of overlap between these 2 seals but in my case they are simply sitting next to each other.

I've tried re-stretching the roof-support seal forward to have some overlap & whilst that slowed down the leaks, it didn't stop it or seal it for long, still bucketing in.

To be certain, I've re-checked the A-Pillar drain tubes and they are clear, clean & free-draining. Any water that gets in there simply drains away as expected.

If I put a hose facing rearwards on either front window, you can clearly see the water gushing in over where the 2 seals meet (and I guess should be overlapping).

It's quite an amount of water that comes in, too much to drive in the rain now, I would expect the electrics in the door wouldn't last too long if we kept driving it.

I've attached some pics so you know exactly what I'm referring to.

Has anyone had this particular problem before?
I see a HEAP of people have had the A-Pillar drain-tube leak, but can't seem to find another mention about this particular leak.

If so, can anyone point me in the right direction about how to rectify it apart from taking it to a VW dealer (who will most likely want my first-born child as payment).

Many thanks in advance,
Andy
 

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Andy,

When was the last time you lubricated all the roof, door, boot[trunk] and window seals?

What colour are the seals - matt black or grey?

Are the seals hard or soft?

Your answers may give an indication of what might be the cause of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Silvershadow,
to be honest, I myself have never lubricated the seals (in hindsight I should have as soon as I bought it 9 months ago); but I guess my lack of seal-maintenance is probably less of a concern as I suspect the original owner (only 1 owner prior to me) most likely didn't do it since new in 2008 either.

The seals themselves are matte black in colour and are, for the most part, fairly subtle to the touch, not at all hard like I would have expected.

Sorry about the poor photos, they looked great on my iPhone but don't come up nearly as clear on a computer screen now I'm seeing them there.

The more important one to look at is the first one (IMG_5299-1) that clearly shows zero overlap between the A-Pillar seal and the roof-support seal, in fact, there's a slight gap there & you can see how the seal puckers-out to catch water moving rearwards, diverting it in towards the cabin, over the window.

I'm up for having a go at replacing the seals if that's what's required however, if I could, I'd like to be 100% sure it's one, the other, or both seals that need replacing first.

It honestly looks to me that the roof-support seals have "shrunk-back" but it could very-well be the A-Pillar seal (with the hard figure-8 style mating rubber) that has shrunk-back, or even both, I'm not sure.

Where the roof-support seal meets the Qtr-window seal seems to have sufficient overlap & is not leaking there, that's what leads me to believe it's the lack of overlap due to seal shrinkage.

I've had a bit of a look around the US parts websites & it looks like I'll be up for around US$300 for the A-Pillar seal (part # 1Q0871409M 5AP) and US$240 each for the roof-support seals (part # 1Q0871357G / 1Q0871357M = left & right side seals)

So all-up, that's around US$1,000 {AUD$1,300} (I put in a little to allow for delivery to AU) for the seals, let alone what other items I'll need to get the job done.

The other concern is can these seals be easily replaced?
I've had a bit of a poke around, carefully removing most trim pieces, but it's not clear to me yet how the seals themselves come away for replacement.

Sorry for the long-winded reply,
I just thought it'd be better to give as much info I could up-front.

Cheers,
Andy
 

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Hi Andy,

Before undertaking major surgery, I suggest you lubricate all seals with Krytox GPL105[search this forum using "Krytox" as the keyword and you will have several hours of very informative reading].

In many cases, troublesome water leaks have been eliminated by thorough lubrication and reshaping of seals with finger pressure to close gaps created by deformed seals associated with lack of regular lubrication. VW made a major error in not providing comprehensive information on regular seal lubrication in both the Owners Manual and Service Schedules.

A comprehensive guide detailing procedures for seal lubrication may be downloaded using the following links:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz2EYc0pOpXkRzdFckNTN213RTA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz2EYc0pOpXkM0EwblU1VlBtV0U

.
 

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I thought one of those roof member seals was only available with the section itself which came unpainted? :confused: Try the Krytox lubrication first.

If you have 100% decided on replacing the seal I would try something if you have nothing to lose: First make sure the roof sections are aligning correctly, there are 'limit stops' adjustable by the sensors. If that looks good clean off all traces of Krytox with alcohol wipes then try smoothing some black silicone sealant over the lower part of the seal then wipe the upper part with silicone grease or Krytox and close the roof. The silicone should form itself into any gaps, cure and stick to the lower half but should stay free on the top side. I'm not usually into doing 'bodge' jobs, but when there is nothing to lose, some things are worth a try. I have used silicon to tidy up their rubber seal 'welds' at the rear where there is a confluence of 3 seals and it worked very well.
 

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Hi

I realise this is an old article but I am surprised that no body mentioned the second drain tube in the door frames at the front of the car.

The suggested problem in picture 1 should not be an issue if the window closes up hard against the window seals.

However picture four and five shows the drainage channel that runs across and under the front edge of the roof and drops water into a rubber seal channel that is in the door frame and drops the water into the door jam.If that second channel is blocked (and it is a second channel, not the same as the A pillar drainage hose that takes the water out of the roof arm channels) then the water coming out of the cross roof drainage channel is going to overflow into the car.

Also as regards the main roof arm drainage channel and the drainage hose in the A pillar. Even when the drainage hose going down inside the A pillar is clear and fully operational you can still get water flowing into the car (at the front of the roof arm) if dirt, a small leaf or any foreign object obstructs the hard plastic drainage pipe connector between the roof arm (channel) and the start of the drainage hose in the A pillar. I park under a honey locust tree and I have seen its very small leaves get into my roof drainage systems. I recommend periodic cleaning of the drainage channels in the roof arms to ensure nothing will prevent water draining out of the system as it should.

Cheers

Catweazle in New Zealand
'08 VW EOS 3.2 V6 DSG
 

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IMHO there is never one reply that fixes everything. In the past I've thought I've found a solution to one problem only to find a leak from somewhere else and all contributions are welcome.

Another thing not mentioned and visible in the photo, is hollow roof seals open at one or both ends. On the roof side member seals, V.W insert rubber plugs. A long hollow seal can hold quite a lot of water. For example, on the 'A' pillar seals if water can get inside, a lot can rush out cornering or after opening the roof. For a 6 mm i.d dia hollow seal that could hold up to 3.6 cc. and water shouldn't get that far in the first place. I would rather put up with a couple of small drips than a torrent of water landing on my knees. Wherever I can find an open seal and in dry weather, I close off the open ends with a plug of black silicone. But as I said, this is 'preventative' and may not be a solution for all.
 
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