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Discussion Starter #1
I broke down and had my car diagnosed because the top was not FULLY going down. (It was going down half way). They said it’s the left rear control module issue. How do I get to the rear control module? If im in the back seat, what do I remove? Anyone have directions on how to get to it?
 

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The door control module is on the window regulator - there's a guide on here for rear window regulator repair. Follow that guide to get to the control module. You start by pulling the base of the back seat up and out, then undoing three screws (one by the seat belt; two where the back seat was) to enable you to lift the trim panel up and out, reaching behind to disconnect the tweeter wire.
 

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They said it’s the left rear control module issue. How do I get to the rear control module? If im in the back seat, what do I remove? Anyone have directions on how to get to it?
If I read this carefully a couple of times, I think they are saying it's a roof control system fault in the roof control module which is located behind the left side trim in the trunk? When you open the roof, if all the windows drop to the bottom and the sunroof slides right back you probably do NOT have an issue with the door/window control units - DO NOT GO THERE unless you have more evidence a door/window module has failed. Even if a (rear) window module fault is confirmed there could be fixes to try first which avoid a horrible time consuming job of getting to it.

A roadside breakdown fault report can never be relied on because they are not expert technicians for EOS roof systems and their limit of diagnostics experience will be limited to getting your car home or towing it, not repairing faults on a complex roof system.

IMHO you should get more information as to which modules may be causing problems before diving in. That will be a printed scan reporting the V.W module codes that are suspected faulty. The EOS roof controller is the brain of the roof system taking many sensor inputs, outputing control and functions. If the roof gets past the first stages of opening and stops, it is more likely there are wiring or sensor problems and you would need to be good at fault tracing with diagnostics and skills to repair your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I’m sorry for the misunderstanding, when I said ”I broke down”, this means I GAVE IN. (sorry about that). Let me start again.
I took the car to the VW dealer and they stated the issue I just described (push convertible lever, sunroof goes back, windows go down(all 4), back window comes up and it stops there) is an issue with the back door/window control module.
NOW, let me give you a brief overview of the car. I had the engine replaced approx 2 years ago, car "purrs like a kitten", so no engine issues.
Car has been garaged prior to that for a few years, and car is still garaged. With that said, I disconnect the battery alot to preserve the battery while its being garaged. (I replaced the battery from Volkswagen a little while ago)
Each time I start the car, and run the car, of course I have to connect the battery. JUST LAST NIGHT, I attempted to put the roof down, and it went down ALL THE WAY. This morning, I went to put the top down, and it went down as I described above.
Issue seems sporadic (3 scenarios)
  • Top will go down all the way (very few times)
  • sunroof goes back, windows go down(all 4), back window comes up (I hear the trunk pop, but does not open)
  • sunroof goes back, windows go down(all 4), back window comes up and trunk pops open
Should I invest in the Ross - Tech VCDS to analyze sensor and modular issues?

If I read this carefully a couple of times, I think they are saying it's a roof control system fault in the roof control module which is located behind the left side trim in the trunk? When you open the roof, if all the windows drop to the bottom and the sunroof slides right back you probably do NOT have an issue with the door/window control units - DO NOT GO THERE unless you have more evidence a door/window module has failed. Even if a (rear) window module fault is confirmed there could be fixes to try first which avoid a horrible time consuming job of getting to it.

A roadside breakdown fault report can never be relied on because they are not expert technicians for EOS roof systems and their limit of diagnostics experience will be limited to getting your car home or towing it, not repairing faults on a complex roof system.

IMHO you should get more information as to which modules may be causing problems before diving in. That will be a printed scan reporting the V.W module codes that are suspected faulty. The EOS roof controller is the brain of the roof system taking many sensor inputs, outputing control and functions. If the roof gets past the first stages of opening and stops, it is more likely there are wiring or sensor problems and you would need to be good at fault tracing with diagnostics and skills to repair your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was wondering, should I invest in the Ross - Tech VCDS to analyze sensors and module issues?
 

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If you have a broken complex computerized car you cannot fix with a wrench, you will need the right tools for DIY or pay the garage with the right tools and diagnostics to do it for you. If you get them to do one scan, it doesn't follow you will solve any problems it throws up because often you go back and forth several times with diagnostics before solving the problem. YouTube isn't the one fix for all problems 'like mine' solution either.
 

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I was wondering, should I invest in the Ross - Tech VCDS to analyze sensors and module issues?
If you don't yet have a VAG diagnostic tool in your armoury, you should definitely invest in one - VCDS for a PC, or OBDeleven for an Android phone. OBDeleven doesn't have quite as much useful information built in as VCDS, but most of the information it's missing is on the internet. I'll stop now, because I'm just repeating what's in my signature and the link in it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’m sorry for the misunderstanding, when I said ”I broke down”, this means I GAVE IN. (sorry about that). Let me start again.
I took the car to the VW dealer and they stated the issue is the rear d
If you don't yet have a VAG diagnostic tool in your armoury, you should definitely invest in one - VCDS for a PC, or OBDeleven for an Android phone. OBDeleven doesn't have quite as much useful information built in as VCDS, but most of the information it's missing is on the internet. I'll stop now, because I'm just repeating what's in my signature and the link in it ;)
If you don't yet have a VAG diagnostic tool in your armoury, you should definitely invest in one - VCDS for a PC, or OBDeleven for an Android phone. OBDeleven doesn't have quite as much useful information built in as VCDS, but most of the information it's missing is on the internet. I'll stop now, because I'm just repeating what's in my signature and the link in it ;)
Aku-Aku, in your signature, you mentioned "the only diagnostic tool that will move the roof is a VAS5054 or similar". This tool is the best tool to diagnose the roof? (in your opinion)
 

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That tool is a V.W proprietary workshop tool. What he means is if the tool can actually communicate with modules it can offer options to move the roof. If an electronic module is dead or not communicating, it will do nothing. If the roof pump is dead it will do nothing.

If a roof is faulty the EOS roof system has stopped you pressing switches to protect itself from you and more expensive damage. If you put a diagnostics tool in the hands of somebody which can effectively bypass this protection not knowing what they are doing, they can end up with a badly bent and damaged roof which will write off any value in the car. VCDS is comprehensive and more than adequate for DIY repairs. There is very little it cannot do and most of what it can do is 'relatively' safe. Even so, once people start tinkering with programming adaptation they can easily brick their car and it's an embarassing trip to a dealer to sort out a bigger self inflicted problem which empties your wallet.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is a recipe for random hard to find electronic faults. You should invest in a battery tender and keep it connected 24/7 - mains or solar. The only time I expect to disconnect a battery is to replace it and then I hook up a 'maintainer' to keep power on the car whilst I'm doing the battery switch. If you kept taking the coin cell battery out of a laptop and replacing it, you could expect on at least one time out of 'n' or more to get a corrupt operating system or a hardware fault.
 

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Aku-Aku, in your signature, you mentioned "the only diagnostic tool that will move the roof is a VAS5054 or similar". This tool is the best tool to diagnose the roof? (in your opinion)
Given that the problem appears to be in the rear window area, I don't know. You may find that the guided fault finding will take you through to a solution - it may tell you what to check for the fault code and take you through the process of checking it. You may find that refers you to the workshop manual, in which case you also need access to Erwin or a copy of Elsawin to view it. Even though the guided fault finding makes it easy to step through the troubleshooting procedure, it's important to make sure you don't just blindly follow instructions and that you understand what it is it's asking you to do - and that can mean quite a lot of reading up.

VCDS and OBDeleven are much easier to use when getting started on diagnosing an issue. I have OBDeleven and a VAS5054, and the VAS5054 is my tool of last resort.
 

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Or he could work through this with a multimeter: :)

IMHO that would need a lot of care and self discipline whereas plugging in a diagnostics tool would give information faster, although it may not tell him where a wiring fault is, if that's the problem.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I’m taking all of your advice, and I ordered my diag tools, unfortunately, I don’t have an Android phone, so I can’t get an OBDEleven. Of course I will spend a few weeks learning the tools and seeing what it does. As I learned from your advice, I WILL NOT change anything.
I guess I’m very curious why the dealer came up with the Left Door/Window Control Module as the fault when they analyzed the car.
i want to see what they see. Dealer is not always right, but as I said, why would they say that piece needs to be changed. I asked them twice, and they said that’s the fault.
vox...thanks for the docs, I will read through it.
Aku... thanks for the advice.
 

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I’m taking all of your advice, and I ordered my diag tools, unfortunately, I don’t have an Android phone, so I can’t get an OBDEleven. Of course I will spend a few weeks learning the tools and seeing what it does. As I learned from your advice, I WILL NOT change anything.
I guess I’m very curious why the dealer came up with the Left Door/Window Control Module as the fault when they analyzed the car.
i want to see what they see. Dealer is not always right, but as I said, why would they say that piece needs to be changed. I asked them twice, and they said that’s the fault.
vox...thanks for the docs, I will read through it.
Aku... thanks for the advice.
"I want to see what they see" is a good approach to take. Once you have the tools to run your own diagnostics, you will see what they are able to see from the car's electronics. In the meantime, given that they presumably ran some diagnostics on the car, perhaps they would give you the printout?
 

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It's not clear if the diagnostics scan was done for money as a job, or as a favor? Workshops usually regard a diagnostics scan as a job they charge for although a quick favor 'look see' could be meaningless with no strings or committment from them. If it was a booked in job I would expect something more back other than a verbal one liner from a customer service desk. I would expect a report to include a receipt for my money, a print out of their diagnostics scan done on my car and their estimate of what they think is wrong, based on their diagnostics and how much it might cost for them to put it right?

I do my own work so perhaps I'm off the wall in what I expect if I pay for work to be professionally done at the shop hourly labor rate?
 

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It's not clear if the diagnostics scan was done for money as a job, or as a favor? Workshops usually regard a diagnostics scan as a job they charge for although a quick favor 'look see' could be meaningless with no strings or committment from them. If it was a booked in job I would expect something more back other than a verbal one liner from a customer service desk. I would expect a report to include a receipt for my money, a print out of their diagnostics scan done on my car and their estimate of what they think is wrong, based on their diagnostics and how much it might cost for them to put it right?

I do my own work so perhaps I'm off the wall in what I expect if I pay for work to be professionally done at the shop hourly labor rate?
I have added the quote. It was a full scan and I specifically went to ask about the roof. That is the first part/line, secondary items are what they saw.
F25A7F51-4FA0-4049-AB41-5FF2ECE6B6A4.jpeg
 

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When they do a full scan their diagnostics equipment will produce a report file listing all the V.W modules scanned confirming those o.k and those faulty with their parts type codes and trouble codes. Your worksheet receipt is a condensed summary.

You have to decide if you want to buy diagnostics to do your own repairs using the money you would have spent at the dealer, or let them do it. If you do the repairs yourself you are on a steep learning curve as these are complex cars. The repair might go further than the door module and you should find out if your dealer network has specialist EOS roof trained technicians before letting them loose on your car. You don't want them starting the job only to find that isn't the only fault and they struggle to fix it.
 

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The full scan will contain a detail like this:

01333 - Door Control Module Rear Left - No signal / communication
It won't be those exact words, but it will definitely contain a five-digit fault code and it should mention a door control module even though it's not a door.

Four hours also seems a bit much - it should be a one-hour job for a trained mechanic. The part should also be considerably cheaper.
 

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Four hours also seems a bit much - it should be a one-hour job for a trained mechanic.
I agree if all they have to do is voodoo magic or re-install firmware (if that works?) and nothing else.

But if it really is the REAR window controller, that's a horrendous amount of work getting it out and 4 hours seems rather short? It took me a day the first time and there's all that tricky alignment to check after the motor and controller is eventually extracted through the window slot. Good Luck to anybody who can do it in 4 hours if they really are doing the proper job and not cutting corners.
 
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