[Teejayvg]

So I bought an early, fairly low mileage Eos with a non functioning roof. It wasn't a lot of money and I took it 'as is'.
The roof I can live with, plenty time to iron that out. However, I find the wipers don't work and those I need and it seems every garage and electrician is 'chokka' for the foreseeable. I've racked my brains over this, so I turn to you guys in the hope of finding the solution.
I don't have VCDS but I have acquired a loan of an old MODIS which tells me there is no signal from J400 and G397. The motor has power and ground. A look at SSP 379 seems to show the LIN for both units emanating fom J519 ( Power Supply Control Module). I've found J519 but I cannot find any wiring diagrams anywhere to check for open circuits. I can't see the motor and the sensor both having a break anyway. Should I be looking to change J519 ? Any thoughts ?
Thanks

 

[voxmagna]

Check for voltage on wiper motor Red/White wire with ignition on. If no voltage check all fuses. Remember the wiper stalk switch assembly is part of the wiper control.

Get a paid for shop manual, get diagnostics.

 

[Teejayvg]

Like I said, motor has volts and ground, the fuses were the first thing I checked. I also paid for two manuals, both as useful as a chocolate teapot. and lastly, I have a Strap-on MODIS and it's telling me I have no signal/comms from a) the wiper motor (J400) and b) the rain/light sensor (G397) and also that the wiper stalk is sending all the correct signals except 'auto'.
I found the ETKA link very useful for assembly diagrams though.
I bought a car and hope to get a roof .

thanks for the input though

 

[voxmagna]

I also paid for two manuals, both as useful as a chocolate teapot.

Not sure what you bought? My Pdf manual from Factorymanuals.com is 6656 pages hi-res pdf and has all the wiring diagrams, but you need to know how to use them and the manual format is for V.W trained technicians, not like a Haynes DIY manual.

No communication with a module usually means the wires are broken, the module is faulty, or it isn't in the Gateway list and initialisation isn't looking for it. The wiper motor incorporates an electronic controller J400. If your diagnostics scanner isn't fully V.W compatible, can you be sure it's reading all modules and telling the truth? One test is to try and read out the EOS roof sensor positions. If your diagnostics tool can't do that it, won't be of much help to you later on.

 

[Teejayvg]

The manual has 40 odd pdf's, each headed something like this

and, having been an engineer for the past 53 years, I have read (and understood ) some pretty technical manuals in my time. But you're right, it is aimed at VW 'trained technicians' . It's a book of instructions on how to take an Eos apart and put it together again. which is all a 'technician' needs to know these days. Isn't it ?
That said, I agree with what you're saying. But it's nothing I haven't said already. My diagnostic tool may not be VIN specific, but it is model specific (and also SNAP-ON). So I would think if it can tell me there's no signal from J400 it must know to look for it. No? I was hoping someone might know where likely break points would be or suspect connectors/modules to look for. As for the roof I'm not worried about that right now. But I do need wipers.

 

[voxmagna]

Not sure what kind of manual you have? My manual is specific to MY07 VIN wiring and fuse configuration (mostly) (There are many different model and wiring variants) in a single pdf of over 6000 pages sectioned into about 25 main categories which include 'Current flow diagram'. The pdf is about 150Mb large so you are unlikely to find it on a free download virus free and without adware matching your EOS VIN.

It's wonderful. I can create my own section bookmarks for sections with easy to remember bookmark names if I need to go back over past projects and fault finding. I can copy and paste info from multiple sections covering a project into new a second pdf. I can also search on terms and it's pretty good at finding what I'm looking for, although I have learned some search techniques for finding connectors and pins.

You're a engineer, you can use a 'scope to probe for the presence or absence of data on a bus pin, but you would need a CANbus analyzer and know V.W PID ddresses to make sense of it. Still, if the 'scope can't find any data activity or the bus line is stuck high or low, then obviously there's nothing communicating.

 

[Teejayvg]

The MODIS is a capable tool, but I don't feel capable about messing around with this cars data as it's probably been messed around with before it was mine. So I suppose a good starting point would be to give it to Arnold Clark and have them reset all coding to factory spec. If that's a thing ? Then I should see what needs repaired/replaced.

 

[Shep]

If this wasn't such a techie post, i would just say to to try a new wiper stalk. They can be a source of some faults with the lack of wipers, but hey, I'm no engineer.

 

[Teejayvg]

Wasn't meant to be but feels like someone trying to sell manuals and diag tools .I take your point but the scanner gets all the right commands from the stalk. It gets expensive swapping out parts to find a fault though. Local garage nearly cost me two hundred quid for a new motor till they found they couldn't communicate with it either. I'm still hedging on the power supply control unit (J519). But....
Thanks though

 

[voxmagna]

So I suppose a good starting point would be to give it to Arnold Clark and have them reset all coding to factory spec. If that's a thing ? Then I should see what needs repaired/replaced.

You should get a result one way or another unless it's a wiring or connector problem which puts out the same fault codes. If they are fitting genuine V.W parts, once the part bag is opened, you pay for it. Hope for a quick and easy solution they can find because they could be replacing and charging you for more parts. But as you say, you bought a cheap car with faults.

 

[Shep]

Hi. Have you removed the pscu yet to see if water ingress/corroded pins is visable that might give to cause for concern?

 

[Teejayvg]

Not yet Man, that's the next move. Scoped it today and saw a signal on the wire, but it was millivolts where it should be 12 volts. Which makes me think the coding is good but the power control unit has a problem. So gonna pull it on Wednesday for repair/replace.
Win or lose it's going to VW for a full diagnostic week after next. Pricey, but I get a full report and who knows, I may end up with a convertible.

 

[cfinning1]

I had the same issue, turned out to be the micro switch at the hood latch. It slipped out of the clip. snapped it back in and it worked fine. Easy and cheap. Good luck

 

[voxmagna]

Wipers (and washers) are disabled when the hood is open to stop them crashing into it. The hood latch microswitch inhibits wiper operation. If the latch was open or the switch had dropped out, there should be a hood open message on the dash. They won't work if you are fault finding with the hood open - catches a lot of people out who are ferreting about in the engine bay with 'scopes connected looking for a wiper motor or washer fault.

 

[Teejayvg]

Yeah, sussed that one with my Golf a year ago. Switch lights up the IC display and the diagnostic tool. New onboard PSU module (J519) on the way (newish). Hoping that gets them going again. FYI. There is a little junction point just above the dash fuse board which can be broken to test with the bonnet (hood) closed. I'm confident just hoping the newish one is a good one.

 

[dsh_EOS]

I had the same issue, turned out to be the micro switch at the hood latch. It slipped out of the clip. snapped it back in and it worked fine. Easy and cheap. Good luck

I discovered that a day or so after I had bought it. So when I took it to an independent shop to have them look the car over, they informed me the wipers were inoperative. I asked them if they had checked this when they were under the hood. Seems they had left the hood unlatched. I sure wish all the other "needed" things were such an easy fix.

 

[Teejayvg]

Just a note to say that I wiped my windshield tonight for the first time. One - Nil to me then

 

[Jomeza001]

Just a note to say that I wiped my windshield tonight for the first time. One - Nil to me then

Hi. I'm having the same problem on a 2010 EOS and reading your thread I wonder if you finally solved the problem by replacing the J519 ??

 

[Teejayvg]

Hi. I'm having the same problem on a 2010 EOS and reading your thread I wonder if you finally solved the problem by replacing the J519 ??

No J519 module was fine. I checked the output with an oscilloscope and it was good. I replaced the data line to the wiper motor and RLS and the wipers worked perfectly after that. There were a few other items that wouldn't work and all were LINBus related ( Interior monitor, window switches and alarm horn to name a few) and I reckoned there was a harness problem or earthing problem with it. The car had been waterlogged before I got it. Look after your seals Guys.


Use a scope and check for signal at the wiper motor ( lilac wire) If it's good you have a power or motor problem. The rest of your problems ? ,I don't know. Good luck

 

[voxmagna]

You did it the right way but not many have a 'scope or know how to use one. You mentioned the RLS. I added one to my screen but know I have an intermittent problem sometimes to sort out. They use a micro size connector to connect to the screen mounted RLS unit which I know is the cause. I will have to get inside and bypass it with hard wiring and solder to solve the problem. For those without a more expensive 'scope you can use a cheaper pen style logic pulse (stretcher) tester to confirm the presence or absence of data on a single wire LIN/K-Line bus. I haven't tried it but something like this should work. It may even work on the high or low side of true CANbus if set to TTL?

Logic Probe High Frequency Response DTL TTL CMOS Pulse Memory Logic Tester LP-1 4894822626946 | eBay

For DTL, TTL and CMOS. For TTL and DTL, set the upper select switch to the side marked "TIL". The LEDs will indicate is basic state. After use, reset logic probe by setting the lower select switch back to side marked "PULSE".

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