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Discussion Starter #1
Oil Flush Treatment – 60k , 2007 tfsi 2.0l

Morning,

Background
The wife’s EOS is mainly used as a second car and doesn’t do much mileage , approx. 2k per year, and most of the trips are stop start / short trips. The car has a regular service/ inspection and I undertake an oil change each year as well.

Oil Change and flush
I’ve done a few DIY items on the engine over the years and not noticed any sludge / build-up of gunk i.e. when I replaced the rocker cover gasket all looked fine. However I do notice a slight amount of ‘mayo’ when I remove the oil filter cap, and I mean very slight. I suspect this is due to the engine not getting warm to burn off the moisture.

I saw a new Castrol product advertised this year called ‘Castrol Engine Shampoo’ which makes all sorts of claims, the main one I noticed was its not solvent based so no damage to seals / not as aggressive as other products. See first pic, it was around £15

Process
Note the car must not be driven whilst the flush is in the engine.
1 Place the car on a ramp / remove the under engine cover and check the oil drain plug can be ‘cracked loose’ . Do not proceed if it’s stuck
2 If it can be loosened , tighten it up again and add the full bottle of shampoo
3 Start the car and run for ten mins. Stop engine. My car was cold and it was around 12 degrees C outside so it came off the ‘start up’ after a couple of mins. I did notice a slight change in engine note whilst the flush was in. The shampoo looks just oil thin oil i.e. 0W-30
4 Under take oil and filter change as usual

I looked at the oil and cut open the filter afterwards and didn’t notice any difference.

Interested in what other people are doing as in flush, not to flush / products used etc.

My wife’s opinion was ‘a fool and his money are easily parted’ as modern oils contain detergent additives anyway

Regards
 

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Completely pointless for a modern car which has been maintained properly. To avoid sludge build up and other issues, the car ought to be brought up to temperature and given a decent run semi-regularly (ie every couple of weeks). If not then there's a thousand other issues as well as oil sludge.
 

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The problem with any kind of oil flush is it rarely reaches internal engine parts where sludge can build up. If you were to remove the engine sump after a so called flush, you will still find sludge in the corners, nooks and crannies of the sump cover and other places. I like magnetic drain plugs but the small type built into a drain plug are rather weak. If I remove a sump I usually try and fix a high power neodymium magnet inside before putting it back. There was a firm selling them custom made to fit inside an oil filter can, but not for inverted filters like ours.

The 'mayo' around the rocker cover is usually a bi-roduct of condensation when engine oil hasn't been allowed to get hot enough over a longish drive. That's what paul-c says. There is a warning though, if you are using the car for low mileage short journeys, steer clear of Long Life oils and long oil change intervals. Stick with a V.W spec. low SAPS synthetic, pay less and change the oil annually, whatever low mileage you do. More frequent cheaper oil changes retain fewer harmful bi-products and will keep your CAT & DPF cleaner.

I don't advise others doing it but I have drained oil, put back 1/2 gallon of kerosene and idled an engine (No high rpm!) for a couple of minutes making sure the oil pressure light goes out. Then drain, replace filter and fill with oil. Unfortunately, kerosene is now more expensive than gasoline, but could be cheaper than proprietary flushing products?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi ,

Interesting comments . I think I will save my £15 when I next do an oil change and spend it on some extra petrol and go for a motorway drive every other week

Regards

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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