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Oil leak?

4360 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  voxmagna
A few months ago I bought my first ever Vw And I love it. Even though it has given me a couple of problems but I thought it was resolved. It’s a 2012 VW Eos komfort. This is happened to me twice over the past three months or so, went to look at the motor this morning to check my oil since I just had an oil change less than three weeks ago, but here’s the kicker it was completely drained yet again like it was a couple of months ago. I’ve had a couple people look at it and say you can see oil laying here and there but there is no oil leak to show. None is going to the ground or hitting the parking lot where I live. So someone said that maybe it’s blowing the motor oil out as I’m driving the car. Maybe that explains when I was looking at the motor this morning I noticed that there was oil splatters all on top of the motor and on some of the tubing‘s are lines on the motor. What could this be? And please I hope it’s not gonna cost me a fortune to fix. Thank you so much for taking your time to read this and any idea on what to look for or try please let me know. One other thing I have YouTube and look a few places and I’m not having any luck, when we took and opened up the oil cap To add more oil that black rubber seal that the oil cap Attaches to on the top of the motor is only sitting there and not glued like most cars would have. Is this normal?
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Perhaps you could add a photo? If the oil filler cap isn't attached correctly that would account for losing a little oil, but unless you can see litres of oil all over your engine bay, there's probably another issue here as well. How many miles do you put on the car per month? The car could be burning excessive oil, which potentially indicates an issue with piston rings or other problems inside the engine. Some oil burning is to be expected, but too much indicates a bigger problem.
This is the seal I’m referring too.
This is where I see a small amount of oil at. And as you can hopefully see in the other pic where the oil is always at
I will start at the beginning. If that amount of oil (a gallon) is actually being burned, you would expect to see the tailpipe smoking in your rearview mirror.

I accidentally left an oil dipstick raised on another VAG car and was amazed at how much oil had come out. BUT it was all sitting in the engine tray! You have to remove it and look! At the time I couldn't reconcile how much oil had come out of that small dipstick hole. PS it does have an O ring seal.

What I am saying is a gallon oil is either being burned or lost down to the engine tray. You have to remove the tray and check it for oil leaks. Those trays have molded 'pockets' which can hold quite a lot of oil, but eventually it should end up on your driveway!

If a lot of oil was being burned it would show up on all or some of the spark plugs (assuming a gas engine) which would be very black and coked. You need to take them out and look.

Another issue could be incorrect oil level when first filled. When oil is drained and clean oil added, it is very hard to find the oil level on the dipstick. You can get a black smear of oil making it hard to find the true level when it could be below the minimum mark. I paint my dipstick with white correction fluid and re-check the level after the car has rested 1/2 an hour. V.W dipsticks can be notoriously hard to read. But once the oil level gets below the minimum mark, this usually triggers the low oil level warning. Unfortunately, trainees are often given the job of changing oil and can get it wrong. If I drain oil out of my EOS I expect to get about a gallon out and to put back a full 4.5-5l bottle. If only half goes back I know something is wrong with my reading of the dipstick. In fact it is usually easier to misread and over fill than under fill.

The photos you post of the closed ventilation hoses don't prove to me that's where a gallon of oil is going?
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Tks for all the info. This morning the check engine light came back on, so hopefully we can figure this out. Got an appointment this Wednesday to have the airbag replaced since there’s a recall, and they are gonna out it on a diagnostic machine and hopefully we can figure it all out then it’s it’s not gonna cost me a small fortune LOL. And thank goodness it’s an actual VW dealership/mechanic. I truly do enjoy my car but it has been a pain in the butt a few times.
I truly do enjoy my car but it has been a pain in the butt a few times.
Most cars are like this but have it fettled to sort out as many issues at the same time, then relax and enjoy. :)
Tks for all the info. This morning the check engine light came back on, so hopefully we can figure this out. Got an appointment this Wednesday to have the airbag replaced since there’s a recall, and they are gonna out it on a diagnostic machine and hopefully we can figure it all out then it’s it’s not gonna cost me a small fortune LOL. And thank goodness it’s an actual VW dealership/mechanic. I truly do enjoy my car but it has been a pain in the butt a few times.
Dottie2u, what ended up being the diagnosis? Was it the upper timing chain housing gasket?
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Dottie2u, what ended up being the diagnosis? Was it the upper timing chain housing gasket?
It was
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Thank you, in the same boat. Yours looks just like mine does.
I think this is happening with mine also - Are you comfortable telling me (ballpark is cool) what they priced it at?
I think this is happening with mine also - Are you comfortable telling me (ballpark is cool) what they priced it at?
I may not be much help, but I changed mine myself and the seal was around $15. It was quoted at $300-$350 for replacement. Took me a couple hours in all. Although my seal was brittle, was leaking, and needed replaced. I still had a leak. I have now also replaced the breather valve ($160)...... and still have a leak.
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Moments like these I wish I spoke car...

Thank you for your help! I have a friend coming to look at it - i'll show him this thread :)
I may not be much help, but I changed mine myself and the seal was around $15. It was quoted at $300-$350 for replacement. Took me a couple hours in all. Although my seal was brittle, was leaking, and needed replaced. I still had a leak. I have now also replaced the breather valve ($160)...... and still have a leak.
Sir, I'm in same boat. Do you have videos or guide you used in changing yours? Pls share
I've added to this thread because of a recent experience which wasn't covered in previous replies. These engines use a closed crank case ventilation system. All fumes (and pressure) are recirculated back to the inlet manifold. To allow the engine to 'Breath' they fit a PCV valve which is a cheap flapper valve. The PCV is a critical part ensuring near zero pressure inside the engine when running. If it's faulty, engine pressure will force oil out very quickly. Since the oil cap is a good seal, oil tends to come out via the dipstick port. If the dipstick is a good seal then oil under pressure will find other ways out such as timing cover gaskets. You find oil around a timing cover, engine crank seal or other gasketted cover and think that's the cause, when it's the consequence of high crank case pressure caused by a faulty PCV. If you spot the symptoms do the tests and confirm a PCV fault you can get lucky and stop leaks. Whilst the engine has been running with high crank case pressure, cover gasket sealing could have broken and some have had crank seals turn inside out! If the PCV was confirmed faulty then expect to have any leaking cover gaskets still leaking oil replaced or re-sealed. Many car engine covers are sealed using silicone gasket goo which will break easily under pressure.

Simple check: Idle the engine, pull the dipstick up and if oil shoots up reaching the hood, the PCV is faulty. If not fixed excess engine pressure can blow out crank shaft seals.
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