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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This project has taken some twists and turns but is now finished and working. I bought a used pair of early (Mk V) Powerfold (PF) mirrors in excellent condition with no evidence of corrosion anywhere and wired to each connector for PF and auto mirror dimming which I won’t use. The mirror covers were the wrong color and I had them professionally painted, although I could have swapped over my originals.

VCDS gave me options to code for PF but the default code starting ‘4’ was rejected. I checked the original 2007 OE door controllers and both had minimal pinning in their connectors with no pins on 14 and 15 for PF. I bought a used pair of later 2008 Mk3 door controllers which had pins for PF and other options. Unfortunately, these also rejected my attempts to recode. I contacted the seller of my PF mirrors, but he had sold the doors complete with controllers.

The conundrum is PF mirrors require compatible door controllers and firmware for which there is no guarantee of getting a match. I’m also uncertain if my early CAN gateway module has a part to play in getting later V.W door modules to accept mirror coding? I concluded that unless you bought used PF mirrors, door controllers and possibly the gateway module from the same vehicle, you have no guarantee of it working.

Software adaptation and compatible hardware was the easy route I looked for but was becoming too uncertain and costly buying used modules with no guarantee they could work. I knew I could make PF mirrors work with a universal solution by modifying wiring and designing a custom control module. I would need to connect or tap up to 11 wires. Many owners of older cars are interested in fitting PF mirrors and I engineered options that could be used as universal solutions, starting with a simple switch then finally a complex fully functional electronic design solution. aku-aku helped with connector pins and wiring information.

The simplest solutions for PF mirrors have downsides but I will share the concepts in stages so you get an idea of what compromises are made. Some commercial modules are sold and walking through my options allows you to decide what may be missing from a cheap internet add-on. They all require modifications and tap connections to the OE wiring loom. The EOS shop manual includes wiring diagrams that have been essential to developing my solutions. Several similar diagrams can be found for the same area and you have to carefully cross check your colors and pins to use the correct diagram.

All these alternative solution options require similar changes to the car wiring, the more you want to emulate the OE software, the more connection you need to make to wiring. Here’s my starter list for a UK RHD EOS. All additional wiring and taps are brought to
the RH drivers door. Splices and taps are soldered, covered with heat shrink sleeve and over wrapped with cloth loom tape. I discounted splitting my final design into a part for each door, because using one location and module was less wiring effort and easier to access.

1. Cut the PF motor wires to pins 14 (purple?) and 15 (blue) on each mirror connector leaving a 25mm tail into the connector capped with heat shrink sleeve. This ensures a controller with those pins active is not damaged. Fit 2 pin connectors to the PF motor wire pairs. This ensures the mirrors and wiring loom can still be removed. Disconnect the battery during wiring adaptation.

2. The new wire pair from its connector is wired to the LH passenger door A-pillar interconnection. MY07 has no Dynaudio and there are unused pin locations. Note: V.W do not fit a wire and pin to connectors and stay empty if an option function isn’t there. The A-pillar inter-connector uses male pins of 2 sizes and the door card uses 2 sizes of female pins, Dynaudio speakers use the larger pins. I’ve measured the pins and added a photo. Sourcing pins the correct size for the door interconnects wasn’t easy. You can buy a Golf V drivers door loom cheap to re-use female pins. Male pins are available via Ebay or Ali-Express. The new wire pair is passed behind the glove box, radio and under the steering column to enter the RH drivers side A pillar inter-connect requiring male and female pins.

3. Always on power and a ground wire is required. Two wires in the RH door controller are always on power and fused by either a large 30amp fuse or by a 5-10 Amp fuse. Each mirror PF motor runs at about 750mA rising to 2-3 amps on stall. I am using fuse SC12 on the red/yellow wire pin 18 of the door controller. I am tapping T20 large 2.5mm ground on the door connector 6 wires to connect to the changeover switch.

4. We now have a new wire pair from the LH mirror PF motor into the RH drivers door, a second pair from the RH mirror PF motor into the RH drivers door and an ‘always on’ power wire and ground. This is all you need for simple manual switch open and fold of PF mirrors using a biased center off double pole miniature switch fixed to the door card switch panel. However, there is no over current protection for the PF motors and it is down to you to return the switch to center off as soon as the slowest mirror reaches its stop. The most obvious downside is you have to remember to fold the mirrors before leaving the car, but you only have 6 wires to deal with. Both PF motors are powered at the same time. If one stalls or ices over, it will take an overload current until you release the switch.

5. The next option keeps the switch but adds motor over current protection. No matter how long you hold the switch on or if a PF motor seizes or is slow it will be protected. PF motors need +- 12 volts reversible for open and fold. An cheap motor driver IC for this job is the DRV8871 (Mouser) Fortunately, there are many Chinese selling this chip in a module for DIY robotics. I show a couple of alternative schematics to the simple switch. The DRV8871 module can control both PF mirrors wired together or 2 modules each assigned to one PF mirror. If one module is used it’s overload limit has to be set for 2 motors and if one stalls, it will take more current. It is better to use one DRV8871 module for each PF mirror.

6. More wire taps are needed on the loom for remote control and to use the V.W manual fold option switch position if like me you have already replaced the rotary switch on the driver side switch panel. A wire pair is required from rotary switch T6 brown/white (signal ground) and T6 5 Gray/yellow (voltage output from switch).

7. For remote operation I have used the EOS deadlocking signals. These are a 200ms power pulse +10 volts for lock and reversing for unlock. 2 wires tapped on the door controller connector pins 12 (purple) and 2 (white) are required. Deadlocking is only active on the remote fob. It is not activated for slow speed self locking or when the internal lock button is pressed.

8. My design can also enable mirror folding on the remote fob but only unfold during key on. This feature in my final design schematic requires an ‘ignition on’ wire tap which isn’t available in the door card. The top row of fuses in the dash fusebox is ignition on. You can either add a fuse to an empty slot or piggy back a wire to one of the 5 Amp fuses. Since this add on wire is only used for sensing in my final schematic, it takes no power. This IGN ON wire is taken through the RH drivers door interconnection to the door card. To implement my final schematic, 11 wires are required inside the RH drivers door.

My final & complex electronic design does the following:

1. Does not require Canbus
2. Automatically folds & unfolds mirrors for keyfob lock & unlock.
3. Protects each PF motor from stall overload.
4. Ensures one mirror works if the other fails or is slow to fold.
5. Protects against overload if mirrors get iced up.
6. Offers remote function of fold out on unlock, fold in on lock.
7. IGN ON can fold out if a pcb link is opened.
8. If the OE rotary mirror function switch is fitted, selecting PF will close the mirrors (drive through narrow gaps). In any other switch position the mirrors fold out and all other selectable mirror functions are available.

When the car is locked, you get the usual 2 beeps and signal flash, but folded mirrors gives visible confirmation the deadlocks are on. Unfortunately I can no longer wrap my half car cover around the mirrors! :)
 

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This is a impressive piece of work. IMO this is beyond the capabilities of most EOS owners to build. But I do see the potential for you to build and market these items. If a end user plug n play product is made available and you provide a detailed instruction manual, I think you will have a viable product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. The value for those that can understand schematics is how I've done it and integrated it into a V.W system. There are applications for any other vehicle with central locking. Some of the big van owners have problems interfacing to larger powerfold mirror motors and my design can cope with mirror motor loads up to about 3 Amp per mirror. There just has to be some component tweaking to fit the circumstances.

I can't find a way of avoiding electronic complexity to emulate the V.W function, but the simple manual switch option without overload protection offers an easier partial solution, as long as it's not held on for too long. If anybody can do the wiring, then adding a switch is the easy part, unless they can't solder splice and heatshrink sleeve. I considered a PIC or Arduino design, but interfacing is about the same amount of work whilst CMOS is very stable for automotive designs.

Electronic Schematics tend to get scraped by search engines, so wait for a Chinese version to come out with fitting instructions in Chinese!
 

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So you managed to hook into the OEM mirror switch as well as everything else? That's pretty nice, and the crucial thing for anyone wanting to add folding mirrors.

Having used cheap Chinese modules as the basis for adding fold on lock to existing powerfold mirrors, it's worth noting that the Chinese modules have no over-current protection and are pretty dumb, just driving the motor with +12V for five seconds - so even those who would be happy with a separate switch to fold their mirrors, or just have them fold on lock/unlock, should invest in some extra electronics to protect the motors and make them last as long as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I used the inboard mirror folding first time last week. My local hypermarket gas station has a concrete filled post just outside the pay booth counter. It's painted white with red stripes and most of the paint has come off from cars pulling in too close to reach across to the pay! No probs, just judged safe clearance and folded in as I went to pay and out as I left. I never thought I would use it, as it added a lot of extra complexity.

The mirror motors as you found take a low running current of about 700mA each which shoots up to over 2.5A when stalled. Do you have problems with powerfold mirrors icing up in Poland?
 

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In my experience thus far, the furry fabric parts on the inside of the pre-facelift mirrors might get a bit of ice on them - but I've never had issues with the mirrors sticking completely, only with them moving more slowly, and consequently not folding out completely when driven by the door controller. I'd put that down to overzealous current and/or run time limiting in the controllers. The facelift mirrors have a different design that looks like it will avoid the issue of icing up, as there are greater clearances between external parts. Even the facelift mirrors need maintaining with a little lubrication if they're not used, as I found out on another car. Whereas some may be concerned with the additional wear put on the motors by frequent folding and unfolding, I'm starting to think that they may be better off being brought into action on lock and unlock so you don't find out they're stuck when you need them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Mine are in lock/unlock mode at the moment which I prefer. The LH mirror with the most wire hits the stop just after the nearer RH mirror, but it's to be expected (slightly more wire resistance) and it's only a fractional timing difference. Unless you are jumping in and out of your car like a jelly bean, I think the motors will be o.k and there are quite a few of the pre-facelifts selling used. Thinking about the aesthetics and what the EOS does with its roof, having them fold out on unlock just adds to the overall 'transformer' functionality of the EOS.
 
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